A Day in Palermo
What to do an what to see in Palermo, Sicily
24 hours is an awfully short time to experience one of Western Europe’s most ancient cities in continuous habitation. Yet, readers of this blog are not alien to this sort of lightning visits, that although brief, provide a glimpse into fascinating worlds.
It’s not the goal of this post to make a list of the numerous peoples and civilizations that have made of Sicily their home throughout millenia (there is plenty of info out there for those interested in the full historical account), all the way up to more infamous associations that have stuck in popular imagination (“everything else is in the shadow” as a Sicilian promotional slogan stated a few years ago!).
Instead, on this post I would try to present a number of highlights that I managed to visit during my short stay in the Sicilian capital, I hope it captures, if only a little bit, the essence of what a traveller can find and see in Palermo nowadays.
Because, besides the many specific attractions, such as magnificent Palazzo Normanni (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) or the Cathedral (both covered in this post), Palermo is eminently a city to walk around, a places that oozes “mediterranean-ness” through and through.
This is also the reason this is mainly a very visual picture-heavy post.
A walk through Palermo
Although very old (it was founded by the Phoenicians centuries before Roman domination), Palermo is like a living organism, that sheds some layers to get some new on top. This is why most of the central area doesn’t look “that” old. It is not a museum, but a breathing city.
In fact, the 19th century and the Italian Risorgimento (a political change that still today generates mixed feelings in Sicily) could be considered a rather recent period for Palermo’s standards, but has left its imprint in the very center of the city, with its broad avenues and neoclassical opera houses
In contrast to other historical Italian cities, it is quite easy to navigate the very center of Palermo.
Besides being at the heart of the commercial activity, avenues such as the Via della Libertà and the Via Maqueda cut through the seaside plain where most of the city is located and provide also an easy way to access its most ancient core.
Street market in Palermo, where all sort of fruit, vegetables, fish and other merchandise is sold. Mediterraneanness in full swing.
As there was a national celebration on those days, plenty of shops decorated with , always elegant, Italian military fashion
Fruit vendors on the streets of Palermo. Citrus fruits are the local stars
And as it was the start of the Winter, chestnut vendors added to the picture
But if you were coming to Palermo looking for the picturesque, for a quintessentially Mediterranean postcard: narrow blooming streets, laundry left hanging from balconies to dry, colourful markets…you certainly will get that as well!
A walk through the old part of of Palermo gets you some scenes that are typically Mediterranean and certainly the one that matches what many would expect. Almost like a postcard.
Monumental Palermo
Quattro Canti, a reference point in the center of the old town. Its name “four corners” refers to the symmetry of the richly decorated (and a tad dilapidated, but in an interesting way) façades
They say one image is worth more than a thousand words, and I think this possibly applies to websites and blogs as well, so…
The Fontana Pretoria, a monumental fountain that, interestingly enough was originally built in Florence and, later, disassembled in 644 pieces and moved to Palermo in 1574!
Church of Saint Catherine of Alexandria
The Church of San Cataldo is a rather unique structure, built in the XII Century in Arab-Norman style and featuring no less than three red round cupolas. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The church of San Giovanni degli Eremiti is very ancient, tracing back its origins to the 6th century.
If the San Giovanni degli Eremiti is interesting in itself, it is also surrounded by a garden and the ruins of an old cloister, now partly taken over by exuberant lemon, fig and palm trees
The church of San Giovanni degli Eremiti features also the red domes that are characteristic of the Sicilian Arab-Norman style. This church is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site
Palermo Cathedral
The massive, monumental cathedral of Palermo was built from the 12th Century on top on an earlier church
There is plenty to see inside the cathedral, of course, but if you have the chance, you should get up the roof for some amazing views of the city of Palermo and its magnificent natural setting!
Palazzo dei Normanni
If the cathedral is interesting enough, hold your breath for the even more spectacular Palazzo dei Normanni next door and the amazing Cappella Palatina.
The Palazzo dei Normanni (or “Palace of the Normans”) has been a sit of power for over a millennium. In fact, as it is located in the highest ground in the city, its location has been occupied since Phoenician times. The Normans built here their royal palace (hence its name) in the XI century.
But the jewel of this massive fortified building is the Cappella Palatina (“Palatine Chapel”).
Although commissioned by the Normans, the chapel’s style clearly shows the Eastern influences, Byzantine and Arabic, with an interior gleaming with golden mosaics and intricately carved roofs.
If you have limited time in Palermo, do make sure this one is on top of your list!
Besides a museum and a major tourist attraction, the Palazzo Normanni continues to be in use for a number of present-day functions, not least of them, is being the seat of the Sicilian assembly (the regional parliament) and of an astronomical observatory.
Not everything is medieval at Palazzo dei Normanni, here is for example a Chinese-style room.
Where to stay in Palermo
Hotel Federico II
Via Principe di Granatelli, 60, 90139 Palermo
https://www.hotelfedericopalermo.it
This is a nice and very central independent hotel.
Its interior has all the modern comforts, but the rooms have also a classical touch that is very fitting to the place.
The hotel Federico II is located on one on the side streets off the main commercial axis and literally 5 minutes away by foot from the historical center.
Where to eat in Palermo
One of the best things of Palermo is, you name it! the food
Il Culinario
Via Concettina Ramondetti Fileti, 24/26
90133, Palermo
Food is one of the main reasons to travel to Palermo and Sicily. In this case, time did allow only for a limited tasting of local specialities.
This, quite centrally located, place is a rather casual osteria. It was busy all the time and at least part of the clientele were locals.
We sought some advice from the staff and the result is what you can see in pics below. It did not disappoint.
Service was efficient and pricing was rather reasonable as well!
During the day we ate mainly on the go. In this regard, the local speciality to try (and it makes for very convenient “fast food Sicilian edition” are the “arancini”, which resemble a falafel, but made of rice. They are available in different flavours.
Special mention also to Sicilian sweets, that are a constant temptation during the city walks. Get your pick!
