48 hours in Nairobi: what to do and what to see
Kenya is one of Africa’s top tourist destinations, however, it’s not really a place known for urban tourism: many visitors just pass through its capital, Nairobi, on their way to the large national parks like Masai Mara, which are further inland.
However, the Kenyan capital should not be overlooked, since it has quite a few interesting things to do and to see, even if you are just stopping there for a couple of days.
In this post I will share some ideas to make the most out of a short stay in Nairobi, based on my own experience during a recent visit.
I did travel there on a business trip, but, nevertheless managed to squeeze in a visit to some of the main sights and taste a bit of the local cuisine.
But before we start, let’s comment on some practical matters to take into account if traveling to Nairobi.
This is by no means an exhaustive list and I must say that my visit was made easier by the fact that my local hosts took good care of me and helped me get around.
My advice is to do proper research and consult multiple sources in addition to this post before planning any activities in or around the city.
Some practical considerations before traveling to Nairobi:
Visas: First of all, bear in mind that while Kenya has visa free travel for citizens of many countries (including, as far as I am aware of, most European ones), you should file something “ETA”, which is an electronic travel form. It costs something like US$30 and it is filed online on the Kenyan government website. It is pretty straightforward, although pretty detailed in the info it asks, such as the exact place of stay, itinerary, flights, etc. I got confirmation on the same morning that I file it, but it is advised to do it with at least a few days in advance, if possible.
Payments / Internet: Kenya is a very digitized country and cards and mobile payments are generally accepted everywhere. It is convenient, however, to have at least a bit of cash with you, for example for tips. It is also pretty much a necessity to get some sort of mobile internet since some services, like the national park fees and museum tickets must be paid online on the government’s website. So, get an e-sim with Kenya coverage!
Safety: my impression is that it is generally safe, although I must say I was a bit cocooned during my visit. In fact, was advised to avoid wandering around alone at night. The one tense situation I saw was when a bunch of guys tried to create an impromptu roadblock on a side street through which some cars were trying to avoid a traffic jam. So, don’t stress too much but be cautious. In terms of health, all tropical precautions apply.
Moving around: Uber operates in Nairobi and it can be quite cheap. The main thoroughfares are pretty well maintained. Now, the problem when moving around the city is the traffic. At times sections of the city center become totally clogged, as in almost no one can’t move and Google Maps shows all red. So, be mindful because travel times may be much longer than they look like in the map.
Nairobi National Park
This is an absolute highlight of any visit to Nairobi and if you have to choose just one thing to see while in town, go for this one!
It is quite amazing, but Nairobi has a vast national park packed with wild animals (giraffes, rhinos, hippos, zebras, lions, hyenas, gazelle, crocs…pretty much all the big African animals, except, I was told, elephants) within walking sight of downtown.
Entrance to the park is controlled and the entrance fee is rather steep (around US$80) but well worth it! I have not been to Masai Mara or the Serengueti, so I can’t really compare.
In fact, I had even entertained the idea of taking one of the day-long excursions to the Masai Mara out of Nairobi, but after visiting the Nairobi National Park, I simply dropped the idea.
In a short afternoon visit you can actually get most of the safari experience without having to venture too far. In fact, it is actually quite amazing to be able to see giraffes and rhinos in the wild with the backdrop of central Nairobi skyscrapers!
To visit the park you would need to get a way to be driven around, though! I had this sorted by my hosts, so can’t really provide advice on this one.
Next are some of the animals that I could see and photograph during our drive through the Nairobi National Park.
Places to eat in Nairobi:
Restaurant Carnivore
Langata Link Rd, Nairobi, Kenya
https://www.instagram.com/carnivorekenya
This is one of the restaurants of reference in Nairobi and it is located not far from the entrance to the national park.
As the name implies, it specializes in barbecued meat. It is quite an experience to eat here and order the full meat selection. You sit down in an open courtyard and waiters keep coming with large skewers offering cuts of different types of meat that have been cooked in a large open grill by the entrance of the restaurant.
This is your chance to taste exotic delicacies ostrich or crocodile meat, by the way!
The meat comes also with a selection of sides and sauces and the restaurant has also some signature cocktails on offer (ice is made with purified water, as confirmed by staff).
Since this was my first time eating here I was also treated to a nice celebratory song by part of the staff, as well! A rather memorable experience overall.
Karen Blixen House & Museum
Another interesting spot in Nairobi and one that is connected with the origins of the city in the early 20th century, when European farmers started to grow coffee near what was then little more than a small settlement next to the railway line.
Karen Blixen, a Danish writer, and his Swedish husband were two of those coffee farmers. Both moved to Nairobi from Europe just before the First World War and bought a coffee plantation. Blixen subsequently memorialized her experiences in the book “Out of Africa”, which in the 1980s was made into a Hollywood blockbuster movie starring Meryl Streep and Robert Redford.
The house in which Blixen lived all those years has been preserved (as well as some of its grounds) has been turned into a museum and can be visited.
The place, which is located in the district of Lang’ata, is not far from the Giraffe Center (another point of interest I will comment on shortly) and it is actually quite nice, lush and green all around.
As at the national park, there is an entrance fee of around US$10, which can only be paid online on the government website. It includes a guided tour (a tip is expected), which is pretty individualized, in my case since I was on my own (but then I saw couples and small groups also got each their own guided tours).
The house is not large and it doesn’t take much time to see it through (it is not allowed to take pictures inside, but, in any case, the interior is not the original). The visit then moves to a nearby section of the estate where it is still possible to see some of the machinery that was used to process the coffee beans (this came with a little wildlife surprise! - see below).
Karen Blixen Coffee Garden and Cottages
Karen Rd, Nairobi, Kenya
https://karenblixengroup.com/coffee-garden-and-cottages
The visit to Karen Blixen’s house can be completed in less than an hour.
However, if you don’t wish to rush, you can next stop at the Karen Blixen Café, which is a rather posh café, restaurant and hotel with a very nice terrace, located about a kilometre down the road from the Karen Blixen museum (so, despite the name, it is not the same property!)
It can be a bit pricey (for Nairobi standards) but the setting is really nice, with a large garden and veranda and an indoor area that looks a bit like a greenhouse. They have also a good selection of food and drink.
The café has also its own parking lot.
Nairobi Giraffe Center
The center, whose official name is “African Fund for Endangered Wildlife” was set up if 1979 by Jock and Betty Leslie-Melville with the goal of saving the Rothschild Giraffe (one of the most endangered giraffe subspecies).
This is a conservation center, but also a place where visitors can see the giraffes from up close and feed them. In fact, when you come in you are given a little bowl of giraffe food. You can walk through on a platform facing the open enclosure where the giraffes live. When they notice there is food they come to eat it from your hand.
The experience is short (I spent less than 10 minutes there) but it is quite remarkable. It is also in Lang’ata and a bit far from downtown (particularly with traffic) but I would, nevertheless, recommend visiting, particularly if you can combine it with a visit to the nearby Karen Blixen museum.
The entrance fee is about US$12 (the funds are invested in the giraffe preservation project).
Visiting downtown Nairobi - Kenyatta International Conference Centre (KICC)
Now, I know that I may be missing some of the interest points in downtown Nairobi, not least the renowned upmarket area called Westlands, but my time availability was really limited (even more so because of the traffic jams), so I chose to visit just one spot downtown: the viewpoint at the top of one of Nairobi’s tallest buildings, the Kenyatta International Conference Centre (KICC).
The Kenyatta International Conference Centre (KICC) is one of the city’s landmarks. It was completed in the early 1970s and it has a very distinctive cylindrical shape. It is located in a square surrounded by several prominent official buildings, which include Kenya’s Supreme Court, the City Council and the Cathedral.
You can get a ticket to take the lift to the top (although to enjoy the view you have to climb some stairs, so it is not fully accessible if you have reduced mobility). Staff may offer to guide you through the visit in exchange for a little ti, although this is optional.
The 360º city view is really magnificent. Recommended.
Where to stay in Nairobi
Eka Hotel
Mombasa Rd, Nairobi
This is quite a nice, modern, 4-star hotel located not far from the main motorway linking downtown to the airport and very close also to the Nairobi National Park.
The facilities are comfortable and clean. There is contemporary decor throughout and you are provided with purified water and bathroom amenities.
I did not spend much time on the premises, so I can’t comment much on the services available, although in general it appeared to have quite a lively atmosphere, with a stylish bar and restaurant and a nice breakfast buffet.
Another great place to eat out in Nairobi:
Cobblestone House
Kiambu Rd, Nairobi
https://cobblestonehouse.co.ke
Last but not least, here is another recommendation to eat out in Nairobi. It comes with a caveat, though: it is quite far from the center, in one of city’s northern suburbs. The drive was well worth it, though!
The set up is quite nice as well, with the tables mostly outdoors at the terrace (they provide you with heaters, since it can get chilly in Nairobi in the evening, the city is located at an altitude of 1,600m, after all!)
This is yet another great place to eat meat and it has also great South African wines. We really enjoyed the massive barbecued meat platter, but they have a selection of specialities from cuisines from all over the world.
If you are travelling to Nairobi, there is a chance you may be considering flying the national carrier, Kenya Airways, if this is the case and you wish to check how is it like, let me suggest you this flight review I wrote on our sister site Allplane.
