3 Great unusual day excursions from Barcelona: mines, waterfalls & castles
Barcelona is one of the world’s top tourist destinations. This is so to the point that concerns have been growing that some of the city’s best known landmarks, such as Gaudí’s Sagrada Familia and the picturesque streets of the old town may be approaching saturation point.
As some of its landmarks are becoming increasingly well-known, it is natural that many visitors start looking for other types of experiences.
There is a wealth of interesting places within easy reach of Barcelona that make for great day excursions.
In this post I suggest just three great day excursions from Barcelona. There are many more interesting places, but each of these represents a truly unique place which combines some natural and historical appeal and also each of them represents a different type of requirements when it comes to distance and time.
By the way, only the first of them is relatively easy to reach by public transportation from central Barcelona, for the other two I really recommend getting a car.
So, here are three great day excursions that you can do from Barcelona, by order of distance.
The prehistoric mines of Gavà (required time: 3h)
The waterfall and monumental cliffs at Sant Miquel del Fai (half a day)
The salt mine and castle of Cardona (full day)
1- Visiting the Prehistoric Mines of Gavà
So, let’s start with an excursion which is just on Barcelona’s backyard and very close to its international airport, actually.
Today the city of Gavà is a Barcelona suburb, but 6,000 years ago (between 4,000 adn 3,000 BC) this place was the site of a large neolithic mining complex.
The galleries, which constitute one of the largest known mining complexes of that era anywhere in Europe, were dedicated to the extraction of variscite, an aluminium phosphate prized for its turquoise coloring. This material had an ornamental function but was likely also used as a stored of value and medium of exchange, not unlike precious metals.
What’s more, the people that exploited these mines didn’t have metal tools! The digging was made with tools made of red deer antler and stone.
The site was huge for its time, extending over at least some 200 hectares (almost 500 acres), most of it under the territory of the modern city of Gavà.
The people that worked at this site were part of what has become known as the “Sepulcres de fossa culture”, which thrived in what is now Catalonia and parts of southern France all the way to Switzerland. They are called this way because they buried their dead in pits, and, indeed, this is what they did with some of the galleries at the mines, where archaeologists have found ancient human remains.
The mines were discovered by chance in the 1970s and archaeological research has been going on since.
In 2007 an immersive modern museum was opened at the site, the “Parc Arqueològic de les Mines de Gavà”, which allows you to literally walk on top of the mine pits and enter a full-scale reconstruction of the mine’s galleries.
The latter is perhaps the most interesting and exciting part. Sadly, when I visited and due to some issues with lighting, I did not manage to get a picture of good enough quality to post, here, so you will need to imagine it. But I can tell you that it is quite an interesting experience (you even have to wear a helmet, since it is really an exact replica of the real thing!).
How to get to the archaeological park of the Gavà mines?
The easiest way to reach Gavà from central Barcelona using public transportation is to take the suburban train.
The R2 Line runs from Plaça Catalunya to Gavà several times every hour, with an approximate travel time of 25 minutes.
Having said that, suburban rail service in the Barcelona area has become notoriously unreliable at the time of writing these lines, in mid-2026, so I would check the state of the service on this website before doing anything.
From Gavà railway station you can walk about 1km to the archaeological site, which is on a hill top.
The other option is, of course, to get there by car. Gavà is actually just a couple of kilometers from Barcelona-El Prat International Airport, so, if you are looking for some interesting thing to do or to see before taking you flight which doesn’t require a lot of time, this could be an option!
2 - The Waterfalls and Monumental Cliffs of Sant Miquel del Fai
This is one of the most spectacular places you can visit within one hour drive of Barcelona.
Sant Miquel del Fai is a rather unique spot combining natural and historical beauty. It sits at the head of the Sant Miquel Valley, within the Cingles de Bertí natural area. This rugged landscape is presided over by steep cliffs and two rather majestic waterfalls.
But Sant Miquel del Fai is also a place of historical significance. In 997 AD, a small Benedictine monastery was established here, the Romanesque church of which, built using a sheltered space under a large rock. Later, in the 16th C. several other constructions were added, including the large building in Catalan style which is today one of its prominent features.
Getting to Sant Miquel del Fai
To get to Sant Miquel del Fai you will need to get a car. I am not even sure there is any way to get there on scheduled public transport, but if you have a car available is about a 45-minute drive from central Barcelona, taking the AP-7 motorway to Mollet del Vallès and then the C-59 road to Sant Feliu de Codines, the closes urban center.
It is important to book your visit in advance (no pre-payment is required), since the site is managed by Barcelona’s provincial government, which, after completing restoration works in 2026, implemented a slot system to better control visitor flows.
You can book your slot free of charge here.
If coming by car, access is through the north side, which offers a rather picturesque entrance pathway which includes a walk over the 16th C. stone bridge and a narrow passage between the rock formations.
This builds anticipation as you move into the grand setting of the Sant Miquel Valley and the Cingles de Bertí, the series of cliffs that run along the head of the valley. It is here that you will find one of the best viewpoints to contemplate this landscape in all majesty.
Bear in mind, though, that this is an area of Mediterranean climate and the amount of water flowing down the waterfalls could vary quite a lot depending on rainfall. Since the Winter of 2025/26 had been quite rainy in Catalonia, at the time of my visit, the waterfall was at its best.
But even if water levels are low, the landscape is well worth the trip!
The main structure in Sant Miquel del Fai is the 16th C. priory building, which today houses some of the site’s services and is also a venue for events. This building stands between the steep mountain slope and the rock cliffs, creating a choke point which is the site’s entrance.
The next point of interest is the 10th C. church, which is of the type known as “troglodyte church”. This name designates those churches that have been built using rock formations for at least part of its structure.
You can see how the small Romanesque church at Sant Miquel del Fai blends perfectly with its surroundings and, as you get close, you can appreciate, as well, how old it is.
There is a path that runs all along the cliffs and takes you to one of the highlights: the waterfalls.
Now, if you have been to Niagara Falls, Iguaçu or even the Rhine Falls in Switzerland, be warned, the ones at Sant Miquel del Fai are in not in the same league. Nevertheless they are quite impressive when seen from up close, particularly because you can get quite close to them, making this a rather immersive experience!
The monastery at Sant Miquel del Fai was secularized in 1567, with the monks leaving and the place turned into a regular priory. It is at this time when the site got most of its current appearance, with the construction of the priory house as well as the northern access path and the bridge that is now used by most visitors.
After a general privatization of church lands in the 1830s, Sant Miquel del Fai was acquired by a family, which turned it into an inn. This coincided roughly with the start of tourism in the 19th C. and Sant Miquel del Fai became a popular destination on account of its natural beauty and relative proximity to Barcelona.
The Diputació de Barcelona (the provincial government) acquired the site in 2017 and embarked on an ambitious process of restoration, which concluded in 2023.
A nice place to eat near Sant Miquel del Fai
El Racó de la Fonteta (Sant Feliu de Codines)
Plaça Josep Umbert Rosàs, 08182 Sant Feliu de Codines
It is a nice idea to combine a visit to Sant Miquel del Fai with lunch in the nearby town of Sant Feliu de Codines.
Perched on a mountainous plateau with views, this town preserves an elegant character from its days as a popular summer retreat for well-off Barcelona families, who built villas here. It also has a handful of restaurants and I am happy to recommend one of them which totally surpassed our initial expectations.
The “Racó de la Fonteta” is located next to the town’s civic center and it offers a great value menu. Rations are abundanat, of good quality and served in a really nice and elegant way.
What’s more, the service was impeccable throughout and, no doubt, I would come back!
3 - The salt mountain and castle of Cardona
If the two previous suggested excursions can be completed as a half a day outing, this one is more of a full-day excursion. Like the other two locations, Cardona is also rather unique.
It combines a natural and a historical wonder in one place: its mountain of salt,. which is the site of one of Europe’s most ancient and spectacular salt mines, as well as a majestic medieval castle which was never taken by the force of arms.
How to get to Cardona
The simple answer is: get there by car.
To be clear, there is a regular bus service from Barcelona (alas, no rail!), but it is quite slow, around 2h, and it has limited frequencies.
If you are driving, instead, it will take you a bit more than an hour to get to Cardona, taking the C-16 motorway (toll road) to Manresa and then road C-55 direction Solsona.
Having a car will also facilitate movement between Cardona’s two main sites, its castle and the Salt Mountain Cultural Park, which are in opposite ends of the town.
Cardona’s Monumental Castle
This castle is, easily, one of the most spectacular in Catalonia. Its origins date back at least to the 9th C. when Cardona was one of the southernmost outposts of the Catalan counties and, in fact, of Western Christendom, in their fight against the Saracens which had been occupying part of the Iberian Peninsula since the early 8th C.
The location of this frontier castle, is, of course, not random and is connected to the need to protect the nearby salt mountain, an incredibly valuable resource in that era of history.
The castle of Cardona was a work in progress for many centuries, which have given it the imposing aspect it has today.
Nowadays you can not only visit the castle to admire the view from the village. the surrounding landscape and its 11th C. Romanesque church, the “Col·legiata de Sant Vicenç”, but you can also spend the night in it!
This is because the Castle of Cardona has been turned into a hotel and is part of the “Paradores” network, a government-owned hotel chain which manages hotels located within historical monuments all throughout Spain. It is said that the “Parador de Cardona” has even a haunted room!
The castle commands great views of the town and the adjacent areas, including the Salt Mountain, which we’ll see next.
Visiting the Salt Mountain of Cardona
The Salt Mountain would, by itself, make the trip to Cardona worthwhile. Cardona is one of a handful of sites in Europe, such as Hallstatt in Austria and some others, that have been known since very early Antiquity for its salt deposits.
Salt mining has been going on in Cardona since at least Roman times, but very likely earlier than that. Salt was incredibly valuable at the time, since it was used extensively to feed cattle and was also currency and a medium of exchange as well.
To that, in the early 20th C. you can add the exploitation of Potash, which brought modern industrial mining to Cardona and thousands of migrants from all over Spain. While some of the other villages in the area are still fully engaged in this activity, industrial mining ceased in Cardona in the early 1990s, when its exploitation became uneconomic, and the mine has since been mostly a tourist attraction.
Cardona’s Salt Mountain Cultural Park is quite an interesting place. It has two components: one is above ground and it is a conventional museum and visitor’s center, where you can tour some of the mine’s facilities and learned how miners lived and worked there during most of the 20th C.
The other, and more unique part of the experience is the visit to interior of the Salt Mountain.
There are different slots to visit the mine, always with a group, since you are driven to the entrance, which is at the bottom of a rather steep valley, in a 4×4 vehicle. There you walk along a demarcated trail which takes you through some of the mine’s old galleries.
Before getting into the mine you are given a plastic cape and helmet, in part to protect you clothing, since salty sediments can drop at any time from the ceiling of the galleries.
Entering the Cardona salt mines is like stepping into a fantasy world full of many different shapes and structures formed by the continued salt deposits.
The mine is actually a dynamic environment, since water and salt continue to carve the interior of these galleries constantly. At one point in the visit you can even see an old wooden ladder, which was forgotten there by some miners some time many decades ago and have since become pretty much like another mineral formation.
A nice restaurant in Cardona
La Volta del Rector
Carrer de les Flors, 4, 08261 Cardona
If you visit Cardona, La Volta del Rector is a great choice of restaurant to refuel and taste some local, hearty produce.
It's located in the heart of Cardona's old town, so it also offers a chance to combine it with a walk through its picturesque streets.
The setting is rather elegant, with a modern touch, but keeps a sense of rural authenticity.
Prices are well balanced, and it offers good value for money.
Here you can see some of the dishes I tried at La Volta del Rector. Overall it was pretty good quality. The service was also pretty good throughout.
Around the Mediterranean in style on Windstar Cruises Wind Surf
Cruise ships come in all shapes and sizes, but only a few of them are able to provide something akin to the super-yacht experience.
We are not just talking about a matter of scale (although this matters quite a lot too!) but of an entire philosophy that permeates every element of the experience. This is in addition to the truly unique wow factor that comes from sailing on one of only a handful of sail-powered cruise ships out there.
This is why, the moment the opportunity came up to sail the Mediterranean onboard Windstar Cruises Wind Surf, we didn’t think it twice!
What follows is our account of an unforgettable journey sailing through the incredibly blue waters of the Western Mediterranean, from Civitavecchia, near Rome, to Palamós, in the heart of the Catalan Costa Brava (you will find the itinerary on Windstar Cruises website as “Yachtman’s Harbors of the Rivieras”.
Keep reading for a detailed review of how the Windstar Cruises experience is like!
The journey was courtesy of Windstar Cruises. Opinions are all our own.
The Ship
The ship which took us on this Mediterranean journey, “Wind Surf” is one of only two ships of its kind ever built (the other being “Club Med 2”, which operates for the eponymous French tour-operator).
These two sibling ships happen to be also the two largest active sailing ships in the world (by length) and have quite some story behind…
Both ships were ordered by Windstar Cruises from a French shipyard in the late 1980s, but ownership changes at Windstar at the time put the project at risk. This is when Club Med stepped in. The French company took over the two ships and, upon completion, put them in service with the names “Club Med 1” and “Club Med 2”.
In 1998, Windstar Cruises was finally able to acquire one of the two, “Club Med 1”, and add it to its fleet after giving it its current name: “Wind Surf”.
At 14,700 tons and 617 ft (188m) of length, Wind Surf is small by the standards of a cruise industry that has got used to launching ever larger ships, but this is the whole point.
Wind Surf’s most eye-catching feature, the one that captures the attention (and the imagination!) of people onshore wherever it turns up is, of course, its superstructure, with five 67.5-meter-high masts and the accompanying rigging.
To be clear, Wind Surf is a hybrid, which is is mostly propelled by diesel engines. Wind, however, plays a key role, not just when it comes to helping propel the ship, but also in confering it a rather unique personality.
When making full use of wind power, Wind Surf propulsion is assisted by 7 triangular sails. These are rolled out through a full automated mechanism every day as the ships gets underway.
Wind Surf can carry up to 342 passengers and a crew of around 210. A passenger to crew ratio which gives you an idea of the type of personalized service Windstar Cruises strives to provide.
The ship has a total of six decks. There are 150 staterooms on decks 2 and 3 and 18 ocean view suites on deck 5. Those looking for an even more exclusive experience have a choice of 2 deluxe ocean view bridge suites and…wait for it…an “Officer’s Suite” which is located within the officer's quarters!
Most of the ship’s common areas are on Deck 4.
Here you find the reception, which is on duty 24/7, the excursions counter, a shop, a library, some workspaces, and a large lounge area (where some of the live entertainment and the pre-excursion briefings take place) with its own indoors café, as well as one of the ships’ restaurants, “Amphora” (more on food and drink onboard shortly!)
Before we proceed further, a note here about the elegant but unpretentious, no-nonsense decor style found throughout the ship, which we quite liked. It definitely adds to the authenticity of the overall experience.
The dominant pastel and wood-like tones inside and white-washed outside, both with touches of deep blue, do also a great job in setting the maritime yacht-like atmosphere.
On a schooner-like ship like Wind Surf, a big part of the action happens outside, whether it’s at the poolside terrace and bar, eating outdoors at the Veranda restaurant or simply sunbathing or walking along the decks while contemplating the Mediterranean coastline.
In this regard, one of the ship’s focal points is astern: the poolside area.
Wind Surf has a small pool, which, while not large enough to swim in it, is ideal to relax as you float and let the motion of the ship swing you around. There are two other adjacent warm-water hydro-massage tubs which provide great views of the landscape around.
Sun beds and a bar, which will prepare pretty much whichever cocktail you fancy on the spot, complete this particularly popular section of the ship.
Those of you that like to enjoy the sea breeze will be happy to know that there are two other partly open decks, 5 & 6, that allow you to walk the whole length of the ship, a full 360 degrees.
Deck 5 is, astern, quite similar in structure to the pool deck and located right above it, but instead of the pools, it has a larger bar with some indoor space that becomes the ship’s focal point late in the evening, when it usually hosts live music shows.
Also on Deck 5, but indoors and amidship, you find the Spa (more of this later) and, closer to the ship’s bow, the bridge. In this regard, We were positively surprised by the friendliness of the captain and crew, who showed us around when we happened to walk by.
By the way, in case you were wondering this is what the bridge of Wind Surf looks like!
Keep going up and you get to Deck 6 (the top one). Here you can get really, really close to the rigging and it is the best spot from where to watch the unfurling of the sails. This takes place every evening to the sound of some really epic music by Greek composer Vangelis.
It is pretty amazing to watch how, thanks to the automated mechanism, it takes only a few minutes for all seven sails to be rolled out.
It is also on this deck, on the bow side, that you find Wind Surf’s other restaurants: Veranda/Candles (partly outdoors) and Stella (which is fully indoors).
This deck, particularly the platform right above the ship’s bow, is a great place to enjoy the actual sailing sensation.
The state rooms
As mentioned earlier, there are different types of cabins, the vast majority of them are state rooms and all of our comments refer to this type of accommodation.
Our state room was on Deck 3, but I think they are all pretty similar regardless of the deck you are in.
You can move up and down the different decks either through the stairs or by using the lift. We used the former option most of the time, since distances within the ship are always short and it can be much faster to just walk than wait for the lift.
So, without further ado, let’s get into the room to see how they look like…
State rooms are 188 sq ft (17.46 sq m) and are fitted with a queen size bed and an ensuite bathroom.
I was very positively impressed by a number of tiny details in the room.
Let’s start by the Queen Size bed, which, we can attest, is truly comfortable. It’s got good natural light, but also lamps and a couple of reading lights. There’s a flat screen TV with a DVD player as well (tbh, we didn’t use it at all, since we seldom watch TV, but some may find it useful to know that it’s there).
But, do you what’s the one thing that we really, really liked? The two round portholes!
Yes, I am aware that nowadays most cruise ships have balconies, and these are cool, but…portholes? That give you the feeling to be sleeping onboard a real ship! And, you know what? If you like balconies, I’ve got news for you…pretty much the whole three upper-most decks of Wind Surf are, in essence, a large interconnected balcony, with plenty of space to sit down, lay down or sunbathe.
More stuff: there is plenty of space for storage, there’s a whole cupboard and a large amount of drawers and shelves, so we never felt the space was tight.
There is also a desk, which comes in very handy to shift through the trip’s papers and is also stocked with some fresh fruit.
Then some of the usual amenities: a safe, a mini-bar, hair-dryer, etc. There are also robes available.
Another pleasant suprise is that there are also universal electricity plugs (since Windstar Cruises is an American company and most passengers are from the US, I had brought a US-EU adapter, but it turned out not to be necessary!).
The bathroom is about as big as it can be in this kind of setting, but pretty well fitted.
It’s got a spacious sink top. It must have a really efficient air circulation mechanism because things, like wet swimming suits, dry really fast, despite the confined space.
Also, the shower is really nice, powerful! (perfect to rinse the salt out and freshen up after a water sports session at the marina).
There is also a set of L’Occitane toiletries.
The restaurants onboard Windstar’s Wind Surf
One aspect of the Wind Surf experience we particularly enjoyed was food and drink.
Let’s start by saying that all meals are included in any of the four restaurants onboard, which is great. Also, regardless of each of the restaurants offering a somehow different type of experience (some elements, like the wine list were common to all, though), the food was really great in all of them.
There are four (in fact, three, if you count Veranda and Candles as one) restaurants onboard Wind Surf:
Veranda, which is on the top deck, partly outdoors, and is the only place open for buffet breakfast and lunch
Candles, which is, basically, Veranda but turned into an à-la-carte, reservation-required restaurant in the evenings
Amphora, which is the largest of the ship’s restaurants and located on the main deck
Stella Bistro, on the top deck indoors, specializes in French cuisine and it is, possibly, the poshest of the lot.
One important thing to bear in mind, though, is that while Veranda and Amphora work on a first-come-first-served basis, Stella Bistro and Candles, require advance reservation and our advice is to book early in the trip because they fill in really fast!
And, btw, Windstar Cruises has a partnership with the James Beard Foundation, a non-profit organization based in the US which aims to elevate the culinary arts. Some of the dishes onboard have the James Beard Foundation stamp.
Shortly below we will proceed to offer a glimpse of each of them.
Next a word about the ships’ bars. There are three of them, two astern, on decks 4 (poolside) and 5, and one indoors at the ship’s Lounge.
It’s important to note that, while all meals and non-alcoholic drinks are included for all passengers, it is not the case for wine and other alcohol drinks (and this includes the meals you have at restaurants).
If you are on an all-inclusive package, you get all drinks, no matter which one, by-the-glass. Otherwise you need to purchase your drinks individually or buy one of the day packages.
Whether you drink or not, is your decision, now, if you do, it may be a good idea to make sure your package includes drinks, since Wind Surf is stocked with a good wine cellar (at this point, special mention gotes to head sommelier Eleonora, which provided great recommendations throughout the trip!) and their staff can really prepare nice cocktails!
So, as promised, let’s go have a look at each of the restaurants. During our trip we had a chance to try all of them at least once and here is a summary of our experience.
Please note that the menu may vary with time and route!
Veranda
This is the most casual of the lot. As the name implies, it is located (partly) outdoors, on the top deck, although it does have space indoors too.
This is the only place to have breakfast and lunch, mostly from a buffet with both cold and warm dishes, although you can order some things à-la-carte too.
The buffet offers pretty much the same basic choices daily, although with some variations. The à-la-carte offering varies a bit every day, particularly when it comes to items such as fish.
Some of the food is prepared outside, where there is an open grill.
We would say the main thing with Veranda is choosing the right table for the time of the day in order not to get too much direct sun, since not all tables have cover. If in the Mediterranean in the middle of the summer it can get really hot already quite early in the morning!
Below are some snapshots of our meals at Veranda, to give you an idea.
Candles
Location-wise, Candles is the same as Veranda, but in the evening it becomes an à-la-carte restaurant and advance reservation is required.
We particularly enjoyed the fish dishes here!
Amphora
This is the everyday restaurant for dinner when onboard. You don’t need an advance reservation, you just show up and wait to be seated (which, at least in our case, was always immediately, since the place is rather big!), which makes it often the “default” option for dinner.
However, don’t let this casual approach mislead you, Amphora is a proper sit-down restaurant offering a pretty good quality experience, both in terms of food, service and atmosphere.
If anything, it gets, perhaps, a bit less of natural light than the other venues, mostly due to the fact that is located one deck down.
We had dinner a few times at Amphora, so here is a collection of images of what we had.
Amphora Meal 1:
Tomato Tart
Seared U10 Scallops
Vitello Tonato
Pan-roasted sea bream
Amphora Meal 2:
Slow-braised octopus
Spanakopita
Duck leg confit
We particularly liked this Californian Cabernet Sauvignon (thanks for the recommendation to sommelier Eleonora!)
Amphora Meal 3:
Stella
This is possibly the most “upmarket” of all of Wind Surf’s restaurants.
French Parisian Bistro
It requires reservation and we advise it you do it early in the trip. We left it for our second day and it was actually quite hard to find a spot, although staff made a good effort to finally accommodate us!
It is located on the top deck, right next to Veranda/Candles, but inside and closer to the ship’s bow.
Really nice layout and a bit more airy and with more natural light than Amphora.
The food was also excellent. Which one we like the most? It’s hard to say and I’d say it comes down to the specific dishes. The wine list was the same for both restaurants and here I must add a special mention to the Wind Surf’s sommelier in chief, Eleonora, which was a nice and very insightful guide in our choice of wines throughout the whole week (she shuttles between the different restaurants).
Amenities
So what else can you expect onboard a Windstar cruise. In this section we have tried to summarize several other aspects of the experience.
The fact is that, even on such a relatively small ship, there is so much to do that ultimately you have to be selective. What we describe here is what we did and it is just a cross-section of what is available.
Onboard Wifi
Wind Surf is equipped with SpaceX Starlink satellite connectivity, which provides fast and reliable internet everywhere, also when on the high seas.
Take into account, though, that, just as with the drinks allowance, access to Starlink depends on the package you are on. In any case, it can be purchased separately.
The onboard Starlink pass gives access to one device at a time, although it can be switched between devices depending on what you need the connectivity for.
Bear in mind that, if you have an EU mobile phone with a data plan, you may get internet access while on port and close to shore (thanks to the EU’s roaming directive), but as soon as the ship sets sail, you will need to log into the ship’s satellite network to get reliable connectivity.
Whether you have Starlink access or not, all passengers have access to a number of websites (these includes the Windstar Cruises as well as many major airlines and other travel-related resources. It also gives access to a digital media kiosk which gives access to several major media outlets.
Spa & Fitness
Wind Surf has also its own onboard spa, which offers a broad selection of treatment. These must be booked in advance and are paid separately.
In my case, I opted to undergo a postural and walking assessment, conducted by one of the onboard spa specialists. This included a postural evaluation, an analysis of the feet position when walking and a 40-minute session to practice some exercises for postural health.
While technically booked at the spa, this was done at the onboard gym.
This gym is relatively small (the right size for the ship, since it was never crowded), but well equipped with fitness machines, weights and other equipment. It also has lots of natural light, since it is located on the top deck.
Shows, music and entertainment
Shows and other social functions take place pretty much daily during the trip, usually in the evenings.
Dont’t expect, however, the sort of large theater-like spectacles you find on large cruise ships. On Windstar everything is much more intimate.
This is the case of the live music performance that takes place every night at the Deck 4 bar, for example.
We also enjoyed a Pub Quiz evening, brilliantly conducted by PJ, a South African crew member that acts as the ship’s master of ceremonies.
Other occasions that provided an opportunity to meet personally the crew and other fellow passengers were an evening drink with the captain, a thematic evening dedicated to learning about Polynesia (a part of the world where Windstar Cruises has quite a lot of activity) and a star-gazing meeting at the bridge at night, with the guidance of Wind Surf’s captain and other officers.
There was also a show evening at the Lounge in which several members of the crew performed several dances from their countries of origin as well as some humoristic sketches, everything conducted again by the very talented PJ!
This account wouldn’t be complete without a mention to two other special, and rather tasty!, treats that we got to enjoy in the perfect weather of the Cote d’Azur:
One was the ice-cream evening by the pool - no further ado needed.
The second, and on a much, much larger scale, was the outdoor dinner-barbequeue that all passengers were invited to join while the ship was anchored of Cannes.
Massive amounts of super-fresh food was cooked and served on deck in a casual, festive atmosphere. The evening was also amenized by live music. Below is a collection of pictures from that evening to give you an idea of the scale of it all.
And if we are talking about the “soft” aspects of the experience, we would also like to highlight the level of attention and service from the ship’s crew, particularly from the crew member assigned to take care of our state room (thanks Raysid!), which kept leaving small nice details for us to find when coming back from shore! Here’s a small sample :)
Excursions
An integral part of every cruise experience are, of course, the shore excursions and Windstar is no exception!
In this regard, the relatively small size of Wind Surf becomes a big plus, because it allows it to call at the smaller ports no other cruises are able to enter or, simply, dock offshore and offer a combination of excursions and water sports (both are feasible if you time your shore visits well!).
At every stop, usually 4-5 shore excursions are offered, with different intensity and duration (from 2 to 8 hours). Unless you are on an all-inclusive package excursions are contracted separately, with prices ranging from some $60 for things like a walking tour of Cannes to something like $250-300 for longer outings, which in some cases included wine tastings and other activities.
It is recommended to book in advance because spots are limited and the most popular excursions fill up fast. Assembly is usually at around 8-8.30am.
Those going on shore excursions have access to quite a lot of prep info, starting with a briefing the day before at the ship’s lounge, which provides not just practical tips, but also some cultural and historical context about each destination. You also get a one pager delivered to your room (these resources can also be accessed digitally on the ship’s portal)
When Wind Surf anchors off-shore, such as at Portofino, Montecarlo, Cannes and Sanary-sur-Mer, the ship’s auxiliary launches are used to shuttle passengers to and from shore (there is always a small Windstar branded tent onshore by the embarkation/disembarkation point).
This, in my opinion, gives to this type of smaller cruises and extra allure!
We went to shore at all the ports or towns that Wind Surf stoped at, although we only took one organized excursion, during our Cannes stop to the nearby town of Antibes.
A group of some 20-30 of us left Cannes in a bus together with a local guide, who showed us around the old town of Antibes (which has Ancient Greek origins and is one of the oldest cities in Southern France).
Our program was roughly as follows:
8.15am Assembly and transfer by launch to the port of Cannes
9am Bus to Antibes (which is some 15 miles distant)
9.30 to 12.30 Guided tour of Old Antibes, a relatively small but charming little seaside town, complete with a castle and a lively fresh food market. The tour included also an a taste of absinthe at a local historical bar.
13.00 Back onboard
Our Itinerary: Civitavecchia (Rome) to Palamós
While the purpose of this post is to describe the experience onboard Wind Surf, the itinerary and choice of ports is, of course, is also an essential element of the journey.
Sailing in the Mediterranean is synonymous with landscape and history overload, so we provide here just an outline of each, and have decided to describe each of them in a series of separate posts.
Portoferraio, Elba
A beautiful little island, the largest of the Tuscan archipelago, and renowned for being the first place of exile of Napoleon Bonaparte. While it is certainly a must for Napoleonic-era buffs, there is a lot more than Bonaparte on Elba, including a picturesque steep old town and some amazing beaches.
Portofino (and Cinque Terre)
A postcard-perfect colourful seaside hamlet which encapsulates the essence of the “poshest” Italian Riviera. It is also a stepping stone to explore other beautiful spots along the Ligurian coast, even the somehow distant, but still pretty accessible by public transport, Cinque Terre.
Montecarlo
A European classic, the world’s second smallest country and a billionaire’s lair. Getting into Montecarlo from the sea is quite the experience!
Cannes (Antibes)
Cannes is famous because of its connection to the world of cinema and, while we gave the modern city a pass, it is also a hub to explore other locations along the Côte d’Azur (as we did visiting nearby Antibes).
Sanary-sur-Mer
This was quite a discovery! I must confess I hadn’t heard of this small, colourful seaside town before, but it fit the program perfectly. Just the right size for a mid-morning visit, stroll along the pleasant quais, climb the town’s old tower and do some shopping around.
Palamós
The largest port in the Catalan Costa Brava. While the town of Palamós is nothing to write home about (it was aesthetically destroyed by 1970s architecture). It is a hub to visit some beautiful spots in the area, such as the medieval villages of Pals and Peratallada or some of the nearby coves and beaches. We actually ended our cruise here, since we had planned to stay a few more days in the Costa Brava area and it made more sense logistically to skip the last night of the cruise.
Barcelona
Not much to add here! One of Europe’s great cities and one we are not neutral about, since we call it home!
Each of these places has a charm of its own, but we would say that what remains constant is the awe that the presence of Wind Surf generated among those watching it from afar!
Water sports at the Wind Surf marina
We have left for the last what is, in our opinion, one of the highlights of a Mediterranean cruise on Wind Surf: the marina.
When the ship is at anchor, weather permitting, the area astern of deck 2 becomes a water sports platform from 10am to 12pm and from 1pm to around 4-5pm.
Forget about material things. This is what true luxury is about!
Whether you are into active water sports, such as kayaking or paddle surf, or you just wish to chill out on an inflatable platform within sight of iconic landmarks like the Montecarlo skyline, the Wind Surf marina has you sorted! Just show up an enjoy. Towels and equipment are provided.
There are, of course, some limitations, such as, not venturing further than some 100m from the ship, but overall, it is pure bliss!
So, in summary, what’s our overall impression of Windstar’s Wind Surf cruise?
We’ve got some experience with cruises, including some high end ones on relatively small ships, and Windstar’s is certainly unlike any other cruise we’ve been on.
It is not about the, let’s say, “classic”, more material, idea of luxury, although on this account Windstar also scores high (particularly on the culinary front!), but about being able to do things that are accessible if on a small ship: water sports at some of the most exclusive spots on the Cote d’Azur, accessing small ports, star-gazing in the company of an experienced sea captain and so on…
Also, the uniqueness of Wind Surf. Granted, sails only provide part of the propulsion, but, still, it is nice to sail on such a majestic ship. There is something special about watching the coast fade in the distance from the wooden deck as the sail unfurl: the feeling of connection to the sea and to thousands of years of maritime history.
The Tower of Vallferosa, a 1000-year old unique fortification
One of the best preserved examples of early medieval fortification in Europe
If you have been to Central Asia the outline of this tower may look familiar and, most likely, it is not by coincidence.
The Tower of Vallferosa (“Torre de Vallferosa” in Catalan language) is nowadays located in a sparsely populated area in the highlands of Central Catalonia, less than 100 miles from Barcelona.
About 1,000 years ago this was right at the point of contact between two civilizations.
To the north, the Catalan Counties, to the south, the lands of Al-Andalus. This 33-meter tower, or we should rather say, two towers, since there are actually two concentric cilindric structures, was part of the fortified border that separated Christendom from the Islamic world.
The tower dates back to at least 970 AD but, in fact, it is possible that there was already some sort of earlier fortification or, at the very least, that there was some sort of influence from Islamic architecture.
There are plenty of towers, castles and fortifications dating back to that era, currently half-hidden in the forests and hills of rural Catalonia, but this one is unique, not just because of its scale, but also because of its great state of preservation.
To get to the tower you would either need to drive through a dit track (which passes through private land, so I am not sure it is open to everyone, or trek a couple of miles from the nearby Torà to Solsona road (which, by the way, offers some great views of the vast forests that cover this region). It is an easy, wide track with a bit of gradient, but shouldn’t be an issue for anyone without serious mobility issues, including children.
The tower has gone through some restoration work recently, but unclear up to what extent. One of the elements that has been added is a wooden staircase and platform that allows you to climb to about half the height of the tower, where one of its gates is located (although it was closed when I visited).
The tower is actually in much remarkably better state than the adjacent, currently abandoned, hamlet and its 17th C. church, Sant Pere de Vallferosa, which are in themselves quite a suggestive sight.
There are still some inhabited farmhouses around this area, but the village was abandoned at some point in the mid-20th C.
Although its location now seems remote, at the time of its construction, the tower must have been guarding a way for cattle and perhaps for salt (from the Cardona mines further north) between the uplands towards the southern plains.
The tower of Vallferosa is one of the few of this age and time that has made it to our day with practically no modifications, even a section of the original roof seems to have been preserved.
Note also how the door was situated at a height of 10m, which, in case of attach allowed the defenders to remove the staircase and make it very hard to reach without the proper equipment.
Besides being an interesting trekking excursion, a visit to the Tower of Vallferosa can be complemented by a stop at the nearby village of Torà (in whose territory it is located).
While the modern part of the village is nothing special, it has a, admittedly small, historical center that is worth a visit if you wish to do a technical stop to replenish supplies on the drive to or from the tower.
Mooma, an apple paradise in Catalonia
A world of apples in the heart of the Costa Brava
If an apple prompted the expulsion of Adam and Eve from Paradise, a young local entrepreneur has created his very own apple paradise in a rural corner of Catalonia’s Baix Empordà region, right in the heart of the popular Costa Brava.
Every summer hundreds of thousands of holidaymakers from all over Europe flock to its great beaches and picturesque medieval towns that dot this flat and green area of Northern Catalonia.
Drive a few miles inland, though, and it is proper farm country.
Just like in other parts of Europe, with agricultural prices hardly keeping up with the general cost of living, local farmers are struggling to stay in business.
This was the case of the family behind the Mooma project. For six generations they have managed a farm called “Mas Saulot”, in the tiny hamlet of Palau-Sator.
Most of the lands within this property were devoted to growing apples and, in fact, the grandfather of the farm’s current owner was one of the founders of the local fruit cooperative. The problem was that selling apples was not a particularly profitable business and the mid to long term prospects did not look encouraging.
Aware of this fact, but convinced of the potential of their 80ha of apple trees, the youngest in the family set to travel around the world looking for inspirational success cases in the field of apple cultivation.
They went to places like England and Normandy, with a long tradition of turning apples into higher added value products such as cider.
This is how the idea for Mooma got started.
Mediterranean cider
“Mooma” is a portmanteau word formed by the “Mo”, the two first letters of “Montgrí”, the grey mountain that dominates the local landscape, and “poma”, the Catalan language word for “apple”
The Montgrí mountain is always in the background
Mooma would become a rather unique case of Mediterranean cider-making. In fact, its owners claim it is the only cider brewery located right on the Mediterranean shores.
The issue for Mooma’s new cider brewery, which took its inspiration from the English cider brewing tradition, was that cider had a limited appeal in the local market. It is a niche product with little significant demand aside from some connoisseurs.
The answer was to diversify and start making apple juice
But people were then complaining it was too sweet, so they added green apple juice to make it more acidic, but then it was too acidic. It has been a trial and error process.
Currently you can buy apple juice made with 4 different apple varieties: Granny Smith, Pink Rose, Fuji and Royal Gala, each with its own set of characteristics (in fact the Mooma farm grows a few more varieties of apple in, but only these four are used to make juice)
And why I am writing about cider and apple-juice making in a site about travel?
Because, in a move that would prove essential for the future of the project, Mooma decided next to expand into the tourism and catering market.
From farm to mouth
While Mooma sits in the midst of one of Europe’s top summer tourist destinations, the idea of turning an apple farm into a tourist destination was a rather unique proposition in this part of the world, but one that has been proven to be a resounding success.
It all started by opening the doors of the farm to small tour groups, of 4 to 20 people, that would take a tour of the orchards (which in nice weather is quite a pleasant outdoor experience for all publics) as well as teh the facilities where cider and other apple by-products are made.
The cost of the visit: €9.50 per person
Tours tended to be in the mornings and then some people started to ask whether it was possible to have something for breakfast, so a patio next to the farm as turned into an impromptu restaurant.
This was an immediate success and, through word to mouth marketing, Mooma started to get increasing numbers of visitors.
It was time to become a gastronomic destination on its own right.
Nowadays, Mooma no longer serves breakfast, but it has become a proper restaurant. From June to September and on weekends during the rest of the year you can lunch or dine at Mooma.
The particularity is that pretty much all dishes are cooked with apples.
For drink you have a choice of different varieties of locally-made apple juice and cider, all made from apples grown at the property.
Staff are always ready to help make the choices, since not many people are familiar with the particularities of each type of apple.
In any case, be it because of the culinary experience, be it because of the appeal of the very explicit apple focus, Mooma has become a great example of local produce and specialization acting as a powerful business driver. It has also become a sort of “must see” place for many of the regular holidaymakers in the area that seek a unique experience aside from the sea and sand of the beaches.
With harvest running August to November, depending on the variety of apple (each of them is spaced out over a number of weeks) most of these visitors are able to see the apple orchards at its peak, with their branches full of apples awaiting to be harvested.
Also of interest is Mooma’s little shop, where you can buy the whole range of products, that, in addition to juice made with different varieties of apple, cide (and ice cider!), it includes also apple vinegar and perry (“pear” cider, elaborated by another, also local, producer) as well as some liquors.
How to get to Sidreria-Restaurant Mooma
Sidredría Mooma
Mas Saulot s/n 17257
Palau-Sator, Catalonia
info@mooma.cat
Millenary olives, cave art and Iron Age hill forts in Southern Catalonia
A truly amazing concentration of ancient treasures
There is a corner of Catalonia that feels far, far away from the well known resort towns of the Costa Daurada.
And, yet, the crowds that every summer converge in places such as Salou or Cambrils or those queueing to get a wild roller coaster ride at Port Aventura…are barely 50 miles away from the quintessentially Mediterranean landscapes around the town of Ulldecona.
But it is here, nested between two chains of bare hills that run parallel to the coast, that an astonishing concentration of unique, ancient treasures awaits those travellers curious enough to go off the beaten path.
What to see around Ulldecona:
1) The largest concentration of millenary olive trees in the World
2) The Iberian hilltop fort of La Mola del Remei (located, actually, in the nearby town of Alcanar)
3) Prehistoric cave art of the Abric d’Ermites
In fact, this is not all, because the urban center of Ulldecona is crowned by a well preserved medieval castle, yet when prioritising our schedule by order of ancientness, we found out that did not have enough time to visit it!
This post is the chronicle, in no particular order, of a day trip from Barcelona to the Southern-most town in Catalonia and an exploration of its nearby (pre)historical sites.
How to get to Ulldecona
Getting to Ulldecona is quite easy, provided you have a car, as Ulldecona lies right next to the major AP-7 highway that runs all along Spain’s Mediterranean coast. It’s about 2h drive to Barcelona going North and a similar distance to Valencia going South.
There is also a train station, but most trains don’t stop locally and service is spotty.
In any case, it is difficult to visit the sites detailed in this post without a car.
The train station is a good starting point for any visit, though, as it is next to the local tourist office, hosted in an early 20th C. modernist building (below). Its interior has been fitted with modern exhibits about the region and its main agrarian produce: olive oil.
The olive trees
Olive trees are truly amazing living things.
They can live for thousands of years and still keep producing their valued harvest, season after season.
It is mind-blowing to imagine what some of the olive trees we have in front of us might have seen…
We are at the Arión estate, a couple of miles west of Ulldecona. We have come here because here is found what is, allegedly, the largest concentration of millenary olive trees anywhere in the World.
And the start of all of them, a tree called “La Farga D’Arion”.
Although quite impressive in its voluptuous shapes, to the untrained eye it looks not too different from the surrounding monumental olive trees. Yet, this particular tree has been around for some 1,700 years. Some scientific studies have dated it to the 4th Century AD, the reign of the Roman emperor Constantine.
Local conservationists claim this makes it the oldest living scientifically-dated olive tree, although this is disputed by some other claimants in the Eastern Mediterranean.
In any case, it is a truly spectacular living organism. The presence around it of tens of other trees that are hundreds and perhaps even over a thousand years old, adds to the attractive of this place.
Most of these ancient trees are of the Farga variety. The fact that it is less productive than other varieties means its cultivation was progressively abandoned and only a few pockets like the Arion Estate remained.
In recent times, efforts have been made to recover and protect these living monuments.
Perhaps one of the most effective ways to guarantee they continue well kept for many years, though, is the fact that some local entrepreneurs have started producing and marketing “millenary oil” produced with olives harvested from these trees.
Yes, you can consume olive oil from a tree that was already producing in the Roman era!
Millenary Oil
Amador (pictured below) is one of such olive oil entrepreneurs.
Based in the town of Traiguera, across the river Sènia, that separates Catalonia and the Valencia Region. Amador not only harvests from its own olive groves, but also has moved around the whole area, identifying ancient trees and negotiating with local landowners the harvesting of their fruits.
Back at its small mill in Traiguera, in a semi-artisanal operation, Amador bottles this oil with the “Millenary Oil” label. This is a quality brand that has been set up by a number of local producers that decided that, instead of the traditional bulk trade, they would move upmarket by highlighting this very unique characteristic of the olive oil they produce.
Despite its small production, Amador’s millenary olive oil has achieved a degree of international success, with orders arriving from places as far as China.
The popularization of high quality extra virgin olive oil outside its traditional Mediterranean markets has certainly contributed to differentiated olive oils, such as those under the Millenary Olive Oil label, to exploit its differentiated positioning.
By the way, you can buy Amador’s millenary olive oil here: https://www.aceitespeset.com/
Amazingly, some of the olive trees currently producing for the “Millenary Oil” brands were abandoned and in a rather derelict state until quite recently.
Iberian Hill Fort
The next stop takes it a few centuries back, to pre-Roman times.
Located on one of a 200m-high peak on the Serra del Montsià and overlooking the sea and the town of Alcanar, there is the Iberian hilltop city of Moleta del Remei.
It is believed that it was occupied between the 7th C. and 2nd C. BC by an Iberian tribe called the Ilercavones.
At least two stages of habitation have been established, the first iron age hamlet possibly destroyed by fire and then rebuilt. It was self-contained within solid stone walls, that also acted as walls for some of the houses, as can be clearly seen when visiting the ruins.
It is possible to see a reconstruction (below) of how one of the houses may have looked like.
The hilltop fort had also a great view points over the surrounding territory and the sea and had other satellite settlements in nearby hills.
It looks like it was abandoned shortly after the Roman colonization. The newcomers had certainly different ideas when it comes to urban planning!
The Cave Paintings
But if an iron age hilltop settlement and the millenary olive trees were not ancient enough for you. Here is another treat: the beautifully preserved prehistoric cave paintings on the Serra de Godall, declared World Heritage Site by UNESCO.
The paintings are actually in the open, not inside a deep cave, but under an outdoors rock shelter. To get there you just need to walk some 50m from a little church (Ermita de la Pietat, hence the name the paintings are also often called “Abrics de l’Ermita”).
The paintings are some of the best preserved examples of the so called “Levantine cave or rock paintings”, a type (or style) of cave art that is found in over 700 sites all throughout Eastern Spain.
Although dating is not precise, it is believe that this Levantine style of rock art originated in a transition period between the Paleolithic and the Neolithic, that is 8000 to 3,500 BC.
The ones here in Godall, near Ulldecona are scattered all over the rock wall. The stylized figures are clearly visible to the naked eye, with animals and hunters painted in warm colours that melt into the yellowish-reddish tones of the stone.
A truly amazing sight and really easy and straightforward to visit. For free.
To learn more about this amazing region, you can also check my piece on CNN Travel: “Spain's ancient olive trees: New taste for old flavor”
Also, may thanks for its guidance and support during the field trip to Jaume, director of Taula del Sènia, an entity that aims to reinforce institutional cooperation between the three territories that meet in this area: Catalonia, the Valencia Region and Aragon.