Trekking to the "Chinese Wall" of Finestres
Rock, water and nature. A little know spectacular rock formation near the Pyrenees
The “Chinese Wall” of Finestres is, in fact, neither a wall, in the strict sense of the word at least, nor in China. Yet, when you see how it looks like, you can understand why this name has stuck.
The lands on both sides of the Ribera Ribagorçana river, that demarcates the border between Catalonia and Aragon, 200km West of Barcelona, hide some truly amazing natural wonders that have, so far, escaped the attention of the masses. The Wall of Finestres, a peculiar rock formation that straddles one of the arms of the huge Canelles reservoir, is one of them.
This area is at the Western edges of a mountain range called the “Montsec” (which means “Dry-Mountain” in Catalan language), one of the mountain ranges of moderate height that run parallel to the Pyrenees.
Rural exodus hit these mountain areas in the Aragon-Catalonia borderlands particularly hard. In fact, it would not be totally inaccurate to refer to the area surrounding the Canelles reservoir as a sort of wilderness.
This has, at the same time, been a blessing in the sense that these magnificent landscapes have been preserved pretty much intact and those that come to admire them in person are still few.
How to get to the “Chinese Wall” of Finestres?
By land
It is possible to reach the abandoned village of Finestres by car, and from there it’s just a few hundred meters to the best viewpoints…but, be warned! the only way is through an unpaved road that may not always be in the best condition.
The direct route would take you from the town of Estopanyà, and through a bridge over the river Guart, all the way through an unpaved track to Finestres.
However, on the day we visited, sections of this track were impassable due to heavy rain on the previous days, so we took instead an alternative and much longer route. Starting much more to the North, in the hamlet of Viacamp, which sits right next to a major road (N-230). From there is another unpaved track that traverses a long ridge on the Western side of the reservoir. The track is some 20km long, but it takes over an hour to drive, because the track is steep at times and some sections have a rather irregular ground, with plenty of scattered rocks. Yet, it was dry and we managed to drive through with ordinary cars.
By kayak
There is another way, possibly more picturesque, and it is to join a kayak expedition organized by one of the several local active tourism operators.
The abandoned village of Finestres
The end point of our drive and the start of the walking part of our expedition is the abandoned hamlet of Finestres.
The landscape here is what you would expect in a place that has been devoid of any permanent inhabitants for over half a century: the ruins of what once was a thriving community, complete with a 17th Century church, totally overgrown by vegetation…or almost. There is, apparently, one house that is still inhabited in the summer.
The village, on its own, makes for quite a suggestive place, and it also has some nice views of the Canelles reservoir, but we did not come here for this.
The first part of the trek was to cover the roughly 200m from the abandoned village of Finestres to the nearby Saint Mark chapel, located on a small hill overlooking the large man-made lake, that stretches as far as the eye can see.
And it is also from here, that we got our first glimpse of the spectacular “Chinese Wall”…
The Wall of Finestres
The so-called “Chinese Wall” is actually a two parallel lines of vertical mineral strata that run along one of the edges of the Canelles reservoir, partly enclosing one of its lateral arms, and creating, when the waters are high, a sort of secluded bay.
Adding to the spectacular ensemble, a XI Century Romanesque church crowns the highest point at the center of the wall. The church of Saint Vincent (Sant Vicenç de Finestres) was built right in the space between the two walls of rock.
From Finestres, there is a trail that takes you to the church of Saint Vicenç by making a detour around the very steep hillsides, yet, we decided to try the direct route and went straight for the water, heading for the bottom of the ravine that lays at the bottom of the wall, in the hope to find a passage along the shore or, at least to go for a swim (it was summer!). (Warning: although not technically complicated, it is quite a steep descent and there is not a well designated trail!)
What we did not count on was the water level, which at the time were quite high (due to a rather snowy and rainy winter and spring.
At this point the Canelles reservoir has a small side arm that, with low water levels is possible to walk around and get to the trail that leads up to the Wall and the church of Sant Vicenç, but with the water a crossing on foot was out of the question. There was still the option to swim, but we would possibly need to leave bags and cameras on the near shore.
Luckily, a group of kayakers just showed up at the right time and helped us to get across the few meters of water that separated us from the other side.
From this point is a 10 minute uphill walk to the central part of the Wall.
A gap in the “Chinese Wall” gives access to the picturesque romanesque church, built in the Lombard style that was common in these lands at the turn of the 11th Century. Again, the trek does not require much technical expertise or equipment, although it is quite steep and at some points it requires climbing over rocks. In particular, the last stretch, to enter the space between the two parallel lines of rock that make “the wall” requires going through a 2-meter high metal staircase that has been afixed to the rock.
If the views of the Wall are quite amazing from the outside, there are also some amazing views from the inside…
There was also time for a bath before making our way back…
Madeira, paradise island
A thorough exploration of an exuberant, diverse island. A proper Garden of Eden in the middle of the Ocean.
There is little doubt that Portugal has become one of the hottest tourist destinations in Europe.
A case in point is Lisbon’s comeback, from sleepy capital on the periphery of Europe to a must-visit place for any discerning traveller has been remarkable. But it is easy to forget that the wonders of Portugal are not limited to its mainland..
One of Portugal’s most fascinating territories is the small island of Madeira (whose name means “wood” in Portuguese).
Once a stepping stone on Portugal’s long Oceanic routes, Madeira is just 57km long and 22km wide (at its widest point) but thanks to its orography and geographical position, it has an amazing diversity of landscapes and ecosystems that guarantee you won’t get bored anytime soon.
A press tour organized by TAP Air Portugal, Turismo de Portugal and the Madeira Promotion Agency gave us the chance to explore the island in the company of other bloggers and journalists.
The first impression we got upon landing is that Madeira is incredibly mountainous, in fact the island is the emerged part of a volcanic ridge that goes all the way from the ocean floor to a height of nearly 2,000m above sea level.
There is hardly a square mile of flat terrain on this island, and this is why even the island’s airport had to be built, partly, on a hill-side man-made structure sustained by pillars (resembling an aircraft carrier of sorts)
Madeira’s complex orography becomes evident on the drive from the airport to its capital, Funchal, through a brand new motorway with innumerable tunnels and bridges. Houses are perched on the what look like impossibly steep inclines right and left, with deep ravines and cliffs around them.
This is about as flat as it gets in Madeira!
Funchal
Madeira’s capital and its administrative and services hub, Funchal, is on the South-eastern coast of the island.
Located in a rare opening of the vertical cliffs that line the island’s coast. Although Funchal’s neighbourhoods climb onto the surrounding hillsides, its historical centre is right by the sea.
The feel is that of a rather sleepy provincial town and, although it is hard to pinpoint one major point of interest, the whole ensemble, particularly the streets on the oldest part of town, is not devoid of charm.
One of the points of interest in Funchal is the fish and vegetables market.
We were to late for the fish auction, but could get a first glimpse of the produce that results from Madeira’s mild sub-tropical climate.
The flower and fruit display at Funchal market can’t be described as anything else but a colour explosion, with passion fruit of different sorts and varieties being the star here!
Dolphin Spotting in Madeira
One of the great things to do in Madeira is to take a whale and dolphin watching tour.
Even if you don’t get to spot any, it is the perfect excuse to enjoy the clean, deep blue waters that surround the island and contemplate its magnificent orography from the sea.
There were a dozen of us on a fast boat as we moved out of Funchal’s harbour for a glorious morning at sea. It was bright and sunny but the constant breeze kept the temperature balmy and pleasant at all times.
It did not take long before we spot the first dolphins, we followed them for a while before they were gone…far from being a rare encounter, we soon got visual contact with another group…and then another…and another…
Lunch at Fajã dos Padres
A great continuation to the dolphin-spotting adventure, as traveling by boat is the best way to access this secluded oasis of calm nested between the sea and high vertical cliffs.
It would be fair to say that this narrow tongue of land concentrates much of what makes of Madeira such a special place: crystalline waters, great food, exuberant vegetation and amazing weather set in a rough, rocky landscape.
There is a restaurant and terrace in Fajã dos Padres, the feel is rather vintage, but this is exactly what fits this place, that seems to move at its very own pace. In fact, the Fajã dos Padres offers some of the best produce that Madeira has to offer: fresh fish and seafood and succulent tropical fruit and this shows in the menu…By the way, one of the local specialities: limpets with a sprinkle of lemon!
How to get to Fajã dos Padres if you don’t have access to a boat? There you used to be a lift that would take you all the way up to the island’s main road…
This is no longer in service and there is a modern cable car instead.
The ride uphill gives you an idea of the rather precarious narrowness of this strip of seaside that is the Fajã dos Padres. Enough land, though, for several tropical fruit plantations and orchards to be found all along the sea side.
Up in the Mountains
Our activity for the next day could not be more different, a sweater and raincoat were required.
In a matter of just a few miles we got from sea level to a height of over 1,800m. From the warm, subtropical temperatures to the rather fresher mountain air.
The car struggled at times to keep going in the super steep ramps that lead to the highest point in the island. Once you are on top, though, the views are simply otherworldly.
The mountains at the centre of the island form deep canyons on the north side that are quickly filled with the thick clouds coming from the ocean. On the Eastern side, it is the blue ocean.
Would it be it possible to see the Africa coast from here? We tried…
Exploring Madeira’s Western side
Once you start to descend towards the Northern side of Madeira, it feels like you are in a totally different island.
Everything of the western side is absolutely dripping wet. Here the rainforest is thick, green and lush. In a matter of a couple of miles we have been transported from the aridness of North Africa to a landscape that could well be that of the Pacific Northwest.
But, one thing is the same, flowers bloom here everywhere. Just a different sort of flower. At points these white, round flowers called…form cottony bushes, so thick at some points that they threaten to block the roads.
Upon arrival at the aptly named “Ribeiro Frio” (Cold River), we had the chance to do bits of a Levada Walk.
The “levadas” are old irrigation channels that, historically, had been built to bring water from the rainy Western side of the Madeira to the arid East, where most people live. Some of them run for many miles and tunnels and aqueducts were built along their path to sort out the complicated orography of the island.
Nowadays a network of trails follow the routes of these “levadas”.
After the walk, time to eat something…
Restaurant Quinta do Furao
Estrada da Quinta do Furão Nº6, 9230-082
Santana, Portugal
This restaurant and hotel is located among the vineyards at the North tip of the island. Besides the excellent food and the views, here in Santana there are also some houses built in the traditional style of Madeira.
The coast is here a sight to behold, almost devoid of vegetation and with an almost lunar aspect at some points. This is the predominant landscape until we get to Ponta San Lourenço, the Easternmost tip of the island. From here we follow the road along coast all the way back to Funchal.
Madeira Embroidery
One of the traditional economic activities in Madeira and one that still employs quite a lot of people in the island is embroidery.
We had the chance to visit Bordal, one of the firms in Funchal, that still work on this traditional craft, and to learn about the artisan process that results in these highly valued embroidered textiles.
This industry is structured in a very capillar way. A handful of houses in Funchal control de embroidery industry, they distribute work to a large network of women all over the rural parts of the island. They, then, at home, complete parts of the process, before taking the semi-finished fabrics to Funchal, where they are completed and dyed with different pigments.
It is still today an artisan process and the old sub-contracting work system continues in place.
With a renewed interest around the world for craftsmanship and artisan products, Madeira embroidery may be set for a revival and has even attracted the attention of some big names of the fashion industry.
Madeira Wine
The other well known Madeira export is its wine.
Madeira wine was highly appreciated by the British, whose ships often called at Funchal on their way to India and the Far East. In fact, in the 18th and 19th Centuries Madeira attracted quite a few British entrepreneurs that settled in the island and helped develop its wine industry. Some of those entrepreneurs gave rise to wine-making dynasties that continue to play a prominent role in the local economy and society.
This is the case of Blandy’s, the wine cellar we visited in central Funchal.
Madeira wine is indeed, quite unique, with a flavour similar to Port in some ways (note: I am not a wine expert, so forgive me if I am not technically accurate in my words, will try to transmit what they told us there!).
Blandy’s offers and didactic tour about the process of elaboration of Madeira wine.
The most remarkable feature of the Madeira wine production process, and that that gives it its very distinctive taste, is the heat-aging process. As part of the production process, the wine is exposed for relatively long periods of time to high temperatures. The origin of this practice is in the fact that, centuries ago, someone figured out that Madeira wine that went on long transoceanic voyages in the hold of ships bound for the tropics, did actually taste better. Later, techniques were developed to replicate and accelerate this process on land.
Another feature of Madeira wine is that they can last very very long time and still be drinkable. One of the interesting moments of the visit to Blandy’s is when you get to the room where bottles containing many decades of vintages are displayed together and you can just but marvel at the dates that appear on the bottles.
In the 18th Century Madeira was a very popular drink, particularly in America and, in fact, the US Founding Fathers toasted to the Declaration of Independence with a glass of Madeira wine!
During the 20th Century, though, Madeira wine lost its hype and came to be regarded as unfashionable, a state of things that the current generation of Madeira producers are working hard to change.
Although not an expert myself, I quite like Madeira’s very unique taste and I hope it will eventually get back the recognition that it deserves!
Madeira Sledges
A truly unique activity you can experience in Madeira is descending on the Monte sledges.
Although nowadays is a tourist attraction, starting in the early 19th Century, this sledge-descent tradition used to be a daily way of communication between the uphill town of Monte and downtown Funchal.
The experience itself is getting into a basket-like sledge that, guided by two professional drivers, called “carreiros”, goes on a 2km downhill descent through a paved road. The ride takes some 10min and it is, definitely a thrill and it is amazing how those guys manage to keep it all the time under control.
Places to Stay in Madeira
Hotel Pestana Casino Park
Rùa Imperatriz D Amelia, 9004-513 Funchal
http://www.pestanacasinopark.com/
Possibly the hotel of reference in Funchal.
It was designed by Oscar Niemeyer, the famous Brazilian architect (who designed also Brazil’s capital, Brasilia) and this shows in the style. The hotel has also amazing views, particularly from the infinity pool area, that is also where you guests have their breakfast.
Hotel Pestana CR7 Funchal
Av. Sá Carneiro, 9000-017 Funchal
Together with wine and embroidery, football player Cristiano Ronaldo (also known as CR7) is the other Madeira export with global reach.
In partnership with the Pestana Group (Portugal’s largest hotel operator), he has opened a number of CR7-themed hotels.
I did not stay at this hotel, but I had the chance to visit its facilities and be shown around by the managers.
While the one in Lisboa is rather more neutral in its decor, the Funchal CR7 hotel is totally dedicated to CR7 as a football star and has some rather unique elements.
The hotel occupies on a modern, two-storey, elongated building right by the port.
And just outside the hotel: a statue of CR7.
The roof is a massive solarium and outdoor spa area, complete with pool, sauna and other amenities.
And while this hotel may not be for everyone (warning: if cult of personality is not you thing, you can skip the rest of this review), CR7’s fan base may be large enough for this concept to work. In fact, in conversation with the manager on duty, I got confirmation that some guests travel thousands of miles just to have the CR7 experience…
While the lobby and restaurant on the ground floor have a modern design where, little (besides some memorabilia here and there) indicates the connection to the footballer. It’s another story in the upper floors, where the rooms are located. Everything here is football and CR7-themed.
And below a couple of rather disturbing (imo) elements in the decor, that are intended to be a constant reminder of the sort of constant surveillance and public attention that football stars of the caliber of CR7 constantly get, 24/7.
Here is one of the rooms. As you can see the decor is contemporary and minimal. There is one element to highlight though…
The paintings lined up over the bed tell the story of the life of CR7, from his childhood in poverty to stardom…while aesthetically they fit in, I found this a bit…mmmh…too much, maybe? But I guess this is a plus for his fans (disclosure: I am a FC Barcelona supporter)
Places to eat in Madeira
Nini Design Centre Andrade Silva Restaurant - DC Atelier
Estrada da Pontinha
Forte de Nossa Senhora da Conceição, Funchal
http://www.ninidesigncentre.com
This stylish contemporary restaurant is located within the walls of an old fort at Funchal’s harbour. The DC Atelier restaurant of modern cuisine is, in fact, part of a larger design and cultural hub that serves as a setting for temporary art exhibitions and a number of fashion and design shops.
The place has magnificent views as its terraces open towards the port of Funchal, with the town and neighbouring mountains on one side and the open sea on the other side. The mix of contemporary decor and the old walls of the place also makes for an interesting contrast.
As it could not be otherwise in a house dedicated to design, the cuisine here is contemporary, with a degree of creativity, and, what’s more… rather generous portions.
Restaurante do Forte (Sao Tiago Fortress)
Tv. do Forte 3, 9060-123 Funchal
Located in a 17th Century fortress at the edge of the old town, this is another great place to eat while admiring one of the most prominent pieces of Funchal’s historical heritage.
As you can see, seafood and local Madeira wines features prominently in our meal here. Very tasty and great location by the sea, next to the historical centre of Funchal.
Believe it or not, this is not a painting, but and iPhone photo with some retouching on Instagram!
Restaurant Adega da Quinta
R. José Joaquim da Costa, 9325-034 Madeira
https://www.facebook.com/restauranteadegadaquinta
Located on a hilltop near Funchal, this restaurant has great views and lush gardens.
The speciality here is meat, that is cooked in the traditional “espetada” beef skewers. It has also a cellar where local Madeira wine is kept in oak barrels.
How to get to Madeira
Being an island, the obvious way to get here is by plane. Although there are also, at least seasonally, ferries to mainland Portugal and the Canady Islands, as well as to the nearby island of Porto Santo (that administratively depends of Madeira).
Funchal airport is named…you guess it!…Cristiano Ronaldo International Airport and it has the particularity, as we commented earlier, that part of the runway is supported by pillars as there was not enough space to build it entirely on firm ground.
TAP Air Portugal has several daily flights between Madeira and mainland Portugal and the island is also included in the ailrine’s “Portugal Stopover” programme.
The UK and Germany stand out when it comes to the number of year-round air links to Funchal (FNC) operated both by full service airlines such as British Airways and Lufthansa and leisure-focused operators such as Jet2, TUI or Condor.
Quite a few other European airlines fly to Madeira, including low cost airlines Ryanair and Easyjet.
Ice, water and power in the Sognefjord
Traveling by car along the shores of Norway’s longest and deepest fjord. Top things to see and do.
Wild, untamed nature can at times be overwhelming and overpowering.
This is exactly what you may experience if you travel to the Sognefjord, Norway’s longest fjord.
For over 200km, from the sea near Bergen all the way to the ice sheet of the Jostedalbreen glacier, the largest in continental Europe, the Sognefjord is like a nonstop beauty pageant, with a succession of dramatic mountain landscapes framing the calm, clean, cold waters of the fjords.
But this area has also its fair share of man-made attractions, both ancient and contemporary…
Sogndal
Located on a peninsula on the north shore of the fjord, this is the county's capital and was to be our base during this trip.
Getting to the Sogndal
We flew into Bergen airport and took a rental car there to drive all the way to Sogndal, all along the road that follows the South side of the fjord.
This is a rather nice 3h drive throughout the Norwegian countryside (it passes through the area where the famous Voss luxury mineral water is sourced).
The shortest route involves a ferry crossing at Laerdal (the alternative would involve a rather long detour through mountain roads)
There is also a small airport at Sogndal, with direct flights to Oslo operated by Norwegian regional airline Wideroe.
A striking feature of the road between Bergen and Laerdal is the amount of tunnels and the length of these. Some of them are tens of miles long and they have conveniently fitted with some colourful vaults that help drivers keep focused on the road. I would not exxagerate if I said that considerable stretches of this route are primarily underground.
It is faster and more convenient to cross the Sognefjord by ferry than drive around it
Sogndal is a rather small town of some 7,000 inhabitants, that in this part of the World can feel like a metropolis. Although pleasant, there is little of interest in the town itself other than it being a services hub for the whole region.
But, very close to Sogndal, the town of Kaupanger has a truly unique gem: a 12th C. stave church.
Stave churches are medieval wooden churches that were once built all over Scandinavia. Although back in their time, they were built in the thousands, today only about 28 of them remain in Norway and a handful more in other locations in Scandinavia and Northern Europe.
Kaupanger stave church, near Sogndal
Where to stay in Sogndal and the Sognefjord
The view of the fjord from the Hofslund Hotel
Hofslund Hotel
Fjørevegen 37, 6856 Sogndal
http://www.en.hofslund-hotel.no
An independent family-run hotel that has been in business since 1912.
It is located right on the shore of the fjord, and it even has its very own pier from where it is possible to plunge into its very cold waters (yes, I tried it myself!).
Traditional style, nice and cozy.
A traditional Norwegian breakfast
Visiting the Nigardsbreen Glacier
An absolute must from Sogndal is a visit to the Nigardsbreen glacier, that it is, in fact, one of the arms of the much larger Jostedalsbreen Glacier.
This amazing wonder of nature is located some 20km up the valley from Sogndal. The foot of the glacier is easily accessible.
There is a visitor’s center a couple of miles from the ice sheet and we could actually get a bit closer than that with the car through a road in good condition.
At the time when we visited there was barely anyone else around (we saw barely half a dozen other people in the immensity of the valley).
Even if you do not get on top of the ice (we did not have special equipment, so stayed just on its edge), the scenery is breathtaking. The solitude of the place adds a lot to the experience (although I don’t know whether this is the case in high season, probably not), just ice, water and rock around.
For more info on how to visit the Nigardsbreen, I recommend checking out this website.
At the time of our visit, you could access the glacier by trekking along the path on the right side of the photograph. It is not a flat and super easy trail, but neither did it require any special training or equipment to get through.
Getting closer to the ice…
And here’s the Nigardsbreen! (you can see the two people at its foot for size reference. In other times, at the right times of the year, local people used the surface of the ice as a sort of highway, to move between the different valleys. Not sure what has been the evolution of the ice since then, or even since the time of my visit, since glaciers seem to be receding pretty much everywhere these days…
This is what the glacier looks like from up close
Jostedal Hydropower Station
As if the wonders above ground were not enough in this part of Norway, there is also a real marvel of engineering underground.
Although an oil-exporting nation, Norway gets most of its domestic energy needs from hydropower. The Jostedal hydro power plant (Jostedal Kraftverk), located on the same valley that leads to the Nigardsbreen glacier and owned by the national electricity company Statkraft, is one of the many that dot the country’s geography, making use of its abundance of water and steep mountains.
I am not sure whether the Jostedal hydropower plant is normally open to the general public, we were able to visit it upon request, as part of the broader work trip that took us to Sogndal, but, as we could see, there are occasional educational tours.
The Jostedal hydro power station has some technical features that make it quite impressive. Rather than being based on a river dam, the turbines are driven by the high pressure water of Lake Styggevatnet.
An underground tunnel channels this water from an elevation of over 1,200m. The pressure is so high when the water reaches the turbines that we were told the concentrated water jet is able to cut through steel.
After having driven the turbines, the water exits the water through another tunnel that takes it to the fjord.
For those interested in learning more about Norwegian hydro power, there is the Norwegian Museum of Hydropower, located in a former hydropower plant in Tyssedal, just South-East of Bergen. I have not visited it myself, but I heard good things about it.
Visiting Aurlandsfjord - Flåm
And now we move already to the South side of the Sognefjord. The two branches of the Sognefjord known as the Aurlandsfjord and the Nærøyfjord have UNESCO World Heritage Status and are some of the most visited spots in the region.
In this area, the tiny hamlet of Flåm stands out.
Flåm is located at the head of the Aurlandsfjord, one of the Southern branches of the Sognefjord. Two factors contribute to it being one of the most touristy spots on the Sognefjord: it is a docking spot for cruise ships and it is a stop on the Bergen to Oslo railway line.
Otherwise, and although certainly beautiful, I did not find the Aurlandsfjord to be particularly more attractive than other corners of the Sognefjord region.
Besides a walk through the village, I would recommend (if you have a car), to drive to the Stegastein (Bjørgavegen 83, 5745 Aurland) viewpoint, on the fjord’s Eastern flank.
Here’s a modernly designed viewing platform that protrudes from the side of the mountain.
Flåm is regularly visited by large cruise ships
The entrenchment of water into the mountain landscape produces images like this in this part of Norway
Some earlier forms of ship-borne visitors
Aurlandsfjord from a vantage point
Lærdal - Visiting the Norwegian Wild Salmon Center
If salmon is one of Norway’s top exports, the Sognefjord is (or at least, used to be!) a particularly rich breeding ground for the species.
Also on its Southern shore, the town of Laerdal is home to the Norwegian Wild Salmon Center.
Norsk Villakssenter
Øyraplassen 14, 6887 Lærdal
http://www.norsk-villakssenter.no/en
This is a modern museum and interpretation center about the life cycle of salmon and its fisheries. The center has even some aquariums, fed by the running water of the village’s stream, where you can see live salmon in their habitat.
Besides that, the village of Laerdal has a small, but very neat center, with streets lined with colourful houses that make for a rather pleasant stroll.
There are quite a few more things to do and to see in Sognefjord, from tasting the famous Undredal brown cheese to a broad range of outdoors activities, but this was actually a rather short trip.
Wouldn’t like to close this story without a couple more pics of the top attraction of the Sognefjord, though, the amazing Norwegian landscape!
Faded Genoa and its hidden gems
It is undeniable the city of Genoa has seen better times, yet, some pleasant surprises await…
The famous “lanterna”, an old lighthouse, which has traditionally signalled the entrance to the port of Genoa. It has become part of the popular imaginary in such a way that, in Italy people say “I am under the lanterna” (“sotto la lanterna”) as a synonim of “I am in Genoa”
Once the capital of a mighty maritime empire, it is undeniable the city of Genoa has seen better times.
Unlike Venice, Genoa has managed to preserve its role as a maritime-industrial city, yet it lacks the iconic status of its historical arch-rival. Not only that, but its many charms are often overlooked by tourists that see it just as a gateway to Portofino and the Italian Riviera or, simply, as a port of embarkation for the many cruise ships that have it as a port base.
To be fair, having passed briefly through the city once in the past, this is an opinion I shared to some degree…until I recently had the chance to spend a full day in Genoa exploring it throughout.
In this post I am going to try to illustrate why I think Genoa is quite an underrated city and why you should consider adding it to your Italian bucket list…
In fact, this chronicle is quite limited in its scope: what to do, what to see and what to eat in the historial center of Genoa in one day. This is because Genoa was the last stop of a Mediterranean cruise we did on MSC Meraviglia, we boarded in Palermo and sailed in a clockwise direction with stops in Cagliari, Mallorca, Valencia and Marseilles.
There are quite a few more things to do in Genoa, such as the whole maritime promenade (with its Aquarium and museum) as well as the modern part of the city that are not covered here, but may be worth considering if you are planning to spend a longer time in the city.
The Port and Historical Genoa
As one of Italy’s historical four “Maritime Republics”, Genoa’s life has for centuries revolved around its port and the old city occupies a hill just above the port basin. In fact, the whole territory in and around Genoa is quite hilly and flat space is at a premium!
This is a photo from a previous visit to Genoa, when the weather was a bit better!
A practical way to see the city is to take the Piazza De Ferrari as a starting point of your itinerary.
This square, that serves a nexus between the old and new parts of the city, is not only is well communicated by metro (yes, there is a metro in Genoa, although it has only two rather short lines), but from its elevated position at the hilltop it is easy to reach any other point of the historical center on foot.
The walls of Old Genoa
Leaving aside the port, I would say Genoa does not have one single major attraction that outshines all the others. What makes it quite interesting and unique is the ensemble of its historical center: a maze of narrow streets and alleys, peppered with remains of its glorious past, such as the avenue of the palaces (that we will review later in this post). So get a good pair of boots, have a nice breakfast and prepare to walk…
One possible itinerary to optimize your time while getting a good general view of the city is to go down Via San Lorenzo, from the cathedral towards the port, then, turn right towards Porta dei Vacca. You may want to go all the way to the Palazzo Reale (that hosts a museum), before turning back again towards the old town and Via Garibaldi to visit its magnificent palaces.
Like in any other European city of note, the cathedral is one of the focal points of the old town.
The architecture on Via San Lorenzo
Although there are quite a few attractions around the port, such as the Aquarium, it is a pity that Genoa’s seafront is not (yet) very pedestrian-friendly. Unlike in other Mediterranean cities that have implemented urban reforms to modernize and open up their maritime façade, here there is still quite a lot of industrial activity going on and there are motorways between the quays and the city. Plus most of the buildings, shops and restaurants facing the port are in a rather decadent state.
All along the port it is possible to eat at these small, popular restaurants specializing in seafood. Fast-food Genoese style. We would go back to food later, but in a rather different way…
A typical street in Genoa’s historical center, you can spend the whole day walking around these
Genoa played its role in the Italian Risorgimento and the unification of Italy, in mid-19th Century. Walking around the city you may stumble upon some plates that recall that era.
Mameli, the composer of Italy’s national anthem, lived in Genoa, close to the cathedral.
Another plate, near the port, remembers another key episode of the wars of Italian unification: Garibaldi’s expedition of the Mille, that assembled in Genoa before sailing to take Sicily.
Places to eat in Genoa
Antica Sa Pesta
Via dei Giustiniani, 16/R, 16123 Genoa
The place to go to taste local Genoese and Ligurian cuisine, particularly the local speciality “farinata”. Thankful to the local that suggested it to us!
“Farinata” is the perhaps the most typical dish of Genoa. It is a sort of pancake made of unleavened chickpea flour, that is baked in the oven.
The one prepared at the restaurant Antica Sa Pesta was excellent and really great value. It’s their speciality.
Classical “farinata” on the left, nothing but baked chickpea flour. On the right, “farinata” stuffed with cheese. Both tasting great.
We also tasted this delicious seafood pasta
The restaurant Antica Sà Pesta is a rather small, modest-looking affair, but the atmosphere oozes authenticity. Would repeat without a doubt next time I am in Genoa.
It is definitely not flashy, a palce without pretensions and a proper hidden gem. My advice would be to avoid the touristy restaurants that abound on Genoa’s main thoroughfares…!
And now we are ready to continue our walking tour through the streets of Genoa’s old town after a well deserved pit-stop…
The Palaces of Genoa
As an old, rich, trading republic, Genoa has its fair number of palaces, built by the local oligarchy as a display and reflection of status and success.
Luckily for the tourist with limited time, three of the most impressive palaces are currently in public hands, and are located literally next to each other on the same street, Via Garibaldi.
They are the Palazzo Rosso (Red Palace), the Palazzo Bianco (White Palace) and Palazzo Tursi.
In addition to their interiors, which have an historical interest in themselves, the Palazzo Rosso and Palazzo Bianco host also notable art collections.
The ensemble of these palaces is known as the palaces of the “strade nuove” (“new streets”) or “palazzi dei rolli”, most of which were built in the 16th and 17th century at a time of urban expansion in Genoa (hence the “new streets” name).
42 of 163 palaces (yes, Genoa is really a city of palaces!) have been granted World Heritage status by UNESCO, among them, the three commented here.
It is possible to buy a combined ticket for the three (recommended)
Palazzo Rosso
This is perhaps the most interesting of the three palaces we visited in Genoa (IMHO).
It belonged for centuries to one of the most prominent Genoese families, the Brignole-Sale, who happened to be also avid art collectors, hence the origin of the collection currently on display at the Palazzo Rosso.
The Palazzo Rosso has several floors, where it is possible not only to admire its valuable art collection, but also to see some of the apartments where the palace owners lived at different periods in time.
The view from the upper floors of the Palazzo Rosso
Although I liked the Palazzo Rosso the most, and despite the risk of serious artistic overload, I did not want to close this section with a couple more pictures of the art that seems to be everywhere in Genoa
A visit to Genoa’s main produce market
Mercato Orientale
Via XX Settembre, 75r, 16121 Genoa
If you like the exuberance of a fresh food market, don’t leave Genoa without stopping at the Mercato Orientale.
Located in what used to be the cloister of a former church, this market is a wonderful festival of colours and smells, as fresh produce from all over Italy piles up at the stalls.
Authentic places to eat in Genoa
Da Leccarsi i Baffi
Piazza Cavour, 91r, 16128 Genova, 16123 Genoa
A place to continue with the exploration of Ligurian cuisine, particularly of seafood.
At this modern and cozy restaurant you will be able to taste, for example, sardines prepared according to the local Genoese recipe.
There is also a diversity of seafood dishes, like this pasta (below), which was truly delicious.
Service was great as well, and, with most of the people eating there being locals, it definitely does not feel like the many tourist traps that line the streets a bit further up the center.
Recommended!
A night walk in Genoa
And to wrap up this intense day in Genoa, a couple of pics to illustrate the night walk to the hotel.
A street market in the courtyard of the Palazzo Ducale
Where to stay in Genoa
Holiday Inn Genoa City
Via Milano, 47, 16126 Genova
It is business-style four star hotel. A bit impersonal, I know, but it turn out to be very modern and have huge rooms (almost like a little apartment, not sure all the rooms are the same, though).
It is not in the very center, although the distance is walkable. There is also a metro station within 5 minutes walk (convenient since it was raining!) and the trains take you to De Ferrari station in the very center in less than 10 minutes.
It is a very convenient option if your are embarking or disembarking from a cruise ship, as it is located right next to the maritime terminal (the hotel was, in fact, booked by the cruise company that arranged the rest of our trip)