Cruise Report: on the Norwegian Encore maiden voyage
Exploring a state-of-the-art cruise ship during its inaugural sailing
Have you ever had the chance to drive a brand new car?
The smell of new that pervades everything is perhaps one of the most powerful, memorable sensory experiences.
This is not unlike sailing on a ship that is, literally, off the yard.
On November 2019, I was among those that were invited by Norwegian Cruise Line to experience the latest, state-of-the-art ship of this Miami-based cruise operator.
The Norwegian Encore’s maiden voyage, from Bremerhaven, on Germany’s North Sea coast, to Southampton, in England, would give us a chance to get a short, but intense taste of what this cruise ship has to offer in terms of facilities and service.
Continue reading for a short, but comprehensive tour of the ship and a glimpse of what the Norwegian Encore experience it is like…
How is it like to sail on the Norwegian Encore
The Norwegian Encore is a 169,000-ton “Breakaway Plus” class ship for capacity for 4,000 passengers and 2,000 crew, which makes it the 11th largest cruise ship in the world at the time of writing these lines.
As is often the case with these very large ships, you don’t really get the sensation of being in a crowded place, though. And there is so much to do onboard that people distribute themselves all over the place, it is rare to find some bottleneck.
Here’s a glimpse of the staterooms (with veranda).
Did I mentioned that wi-fi worked great everywhere on the ship?
The central pool deck area, a classic of any cruise ship worth its name!
Although November weather in the North Sea did not invite to take a dip into the water! Thus, no swimming this time, although it still made for a great party venue and viewing platform (one of the things when sailing on the English Channel is that you come across lots of maritime traffic, a treat for ship-spotters!)
In these pics you can get a view of the Norwegian Encore pool deck area and some of the adjacent amenities, such as those warm water jacuzzies on the side and the massive aquapark.
Plenty of entertainment indoors too and for a diversity of aesthetic tastes, as you can see here, from the 1950s American diner style to a more classical lounge area.
In case you are a Starbucks junkie, you would be glad to know that there is one onboard! (and Starbucks coffee machines are also available at the buffet area)
And of course, entertainment by the ship’s very own theatre company. Only time for one show, but was great!
Special mention goes to the games arcade. It was a first for me, nevertheless it was quite interesting to check out the whole range of immersive experiences using the latest 3D entertainment technology, from driving a formula one racing car to shooting zombies and slaying dragons.
Plenty of options to choose from!
The Haven
One of the most interesting aspects of the trip was becoming acquainted with The Haven, Norwegian’s premium product.
This is a secluded area, literally a private haven within the buzz of the large ship, which bring the levels of comfort, privacy and service one step up.
The Haven experience is designed to provide a peaceful and calm environment in a rather elegant setting. It has its own indoor swimming pool and indoor area, as you can see here (the set up reminded me that of classical Roman baths for that matter!)
And staterooms in The Haven are considerably larger and more luxurious
There is also its own a-la-carte restaurant, that we had the chance to try out, and a dedicated bar and lounge area. There is plenty of space to relax and socialize at The Haven, just in a more exclusive atmosphere.
The Food
But if you ask me, I’d say food is one of the highlights of a cruise on the Norwegian Encore.
There is, of course, a buffet area (where breakfast is served) on one of the upper-most decks and, if on MSC Meraviglia, the star of the buffet (in my opinion) was pizza, at Norwegian Encore I was positively impressed by the choices of Indian and Asian food available.
But there are plenty of other à-la carte restaurants onboard.
Although the journey was short, two nights and one day, we were able to sample the different eating options available: from Mexican and Italian to Chinese cuisine.
My favourite, though, was the “Q Texas Somkehouse”, a sample of which you can see below.
Oh! And, last but not least, we enjoyed as well as a cocktail and wine tasting, the latter with the ships’ sommelier. This was, of course, a special treat on a very special trip, but the same is available to passengers on regular cruises.
Cruise on MSC Meraviglia
Quality cruising at scale
In late 2018 I accepted an invitation from MSC Cruises to experience one of its most modern ships, MSC Meraviglia as it sailed around the Western Mediterranean.
What follows is an account of the different aspects of the ship that I enjoyed during the few days I was onboard. To be fair, the ship is so huge that I literally didn’t have time to try out many of the features available to its guests. Far from aiming to do a comprehensive review of MSC Meraviglia, I hope these lines can convey an idea of how is it like to sail on this amazing ship.
The Ship
MSC Meraviglia is a really large, modern ship.
It was launched in 2016 and had its maiden voyage the following year.
For some time, MSC Meraviglia was among the world’s five largest cruise ships, and, although some larger ships have since come into service, it remains among the top ten of the ranking. It is capable of carrying some 4,500 passengers and a crew of 1,500.
Happy to report, though, that those large numbers are perfectly compatible with a great passenger experience as you will see in the next passages!
The Itinerary
MSC Meraviglia at port in Cagliari, Sardinia
On this cruise MSC Meraviglia followed a clockwise route around the Western Mediterranean. Starting from Genoa, sailing down the Italian coast to Civitavecchia, near Rome, then on to Palermo, in Sicily, Cagliari (Sardinia), Palma (in the island of Majorca), Valencia, Marseilles and back to Genoa.
We boarded the ship in Palermo, so did not do a full circle, but spent 4 nights onboard, which allowed us to check out quite a few highlights, including the exclusive Cirque du Soleil show and several of the dining venues onboard.
The State Rooms
One question I get often is whether it feels crowded in cruise ships of that size. And to be honest, this is something that never ceases to amaze me, because the answer is a resounding No! How do ship designers manage to create this sort of hotel-like conditions? this is a question I don’t have an answer for. But from a traveler point of view staterooms onboard MSC Meraviglia are very comfortable and don’t feel tight when it comes to space.
I have been on premium, smaller cruise ships before and the stateroom at MSC Meraviglia stood well the comparison.
It was all very modern, as you would expect of such a new ship, and spotlessly clean. We had seaview veranda.
As it was going to be my birthday during the cruise, there was also a bottle of champagne and some chocolate and strawberries waiting for me, which was a very nice detail!
Facilities
Like in most modern cruise ships, the pool deck is one of the central spots on the ship. Even if it was early November, the weather was pretty warm when we left Palermo, so the open deck pools were quite busy!
As you would expect, there are also other smaller pools, a solarium and an indoor gym all around the pool area.
One of the things I liked about MSC Meraviglia (and I think it is a feature of most, if not all, MSC ships) is the way the space is structured around a central gallery that allows you to walk pretty much unimpeded from stern to bow, with most of the services easily accessible alongside. At the centre is a wide plaza that acts as a central hub, linking also several floors of the ship.
Although the glitter and bling that you find in some of these areas (including a rather generous use of Swarovski crystals) are not exactly my cup of tea, this layout has quite a few advantages, for example, it makes it very easy to orient yourself when walking around the ship and it gives you a sensation of space. Despite the large number of people onboard, you rarely feel a sensation of crowdedness.
I particularly liked the minimalist, simple, modern lines of the bar at this central plaza. Its sea-facing windows are also great if you find yourself in the need to do some work while sailing!
The central gallery is really the core of the ship. Most of the shops and specialty restaurants line it and this is where invariably you are going to find yourself again and again.
The vault, lit by thousands of LED lights, produces quite amazing displays. If the themes at normal times can already be quite elaborate, including the ship’s very own interpretation of Michelangelo’s Sixtine Chapel frescoes, it is something to be seen when one of the regular sound and light shows are performed.
The central gallery is also the setting for all sort of shows, from the purely audiovisual, such as this one about roaring dinosaurs, all the way to full theatrical performances that passengers are invited to join somehow.
Passengers looking for some pampering can visit the Aurea Spa (most treatments are charged aside, though).
A couple of other elements of the MSC experience that are worth mentioning here.
The MSC for Me app, that lets you check in and book a number of experiences and activities throughout your trip. Something quite handy in such an entertainment-packed ship as MSC Meraviglia (more on this soon!)
The ship is also fitted with the Yacht Club area. This is, in fact, a more exclusive area within the ship that provides are more secluded, upmarket experience for those passengers looking for a more premium experience, yet, still willing to enjoy the advantages of a larger ship, such as the Cirque du Soleil shows, etc.
Shows & Entertainment onboard
In fact, if there is an aspect of the cruise experience where MSC really stands out and it is possibly a differentiating factor, this is the shows and theatrical performances onboard.
MSC Meraviglia has actually two theaters, one where the ship’s excellent theater company performs.
The other one, at the bow of the ship, is a smaller theater specially designed to accommodate the performances of the Cirque du Soleil. The Montreal-based arts company has an exclusive partnership with MSC Cruises to develop shows that are specifically designed to be performed at sea.
Ship’s Company Show
Although the Cirque du Soleil gets most of the attention and it is, indeed, a remarkable feat to have such a top-notch artistic company onboard, I would like to share some words also about the ship’s own theater and music company.
There are several shows every day, we attended pretty much all of them, and always had a great time!
Cirque du Soleil
One of the highlights of the cruise for sure.
MSC Meraviglia was the first cruise ship to host a Cirque du Soleil performance at sea. As you might imagine, the very intricate, complex acrobatic moves of these artists have an extra degree of complexity when performed on a moving surface, such as the ship. Although you can hardly feel the movement in a ship such as MSC Meraviglia, there is still movement and when success depends on millmetric moves, this is no small issue.
The Cirque performs in a specially designed stage, that is located in the center of the room, with spectators seating in tables all around (you can eat and drink during the show).
There were two different shows on offer, which are called “Viaggio” and “Sonor” (we watched the latter) on MSC Meraviglia at the time of our cruise. But far from being a one-off thing, the partnership between the Cirque du Soleil and MSC means that new shows are going to be introduced on other ships of the fleet.
You can learn more about this through this article that I wrote when I visited the Cirque’s HQ and training centre in Montreal to learn more about how this cooperation with MSC Cruises is unfolding.
No need to say that these shows have all the spectacularity and excellence that are the hallmark of the Cirque!
Eating & Drinking onboard MSC Meraviglia
Quite a few options to eat onboard MSC Meraviglia.
The simplest and most casual one is the buffett. Here I would higlight the pizza, that was really good and varied (as expected in an Italian-owned ship!)
There are also a couple of large restaurants at the bow of the ship.
These are large and with high turnover, nevertheless I was quite impressed by the level of service and the food. Let me remark that these are not specialty restaurants that you need to book in advance, you just show up and you get seated almost immediately.
The service was impeccable and the food and drink great.
We also tried one of the specialty restaurants, the Kaito Teppanyaki, as you may have guessed, specializing in Japanese cuisine.
This was also an amazing experience (and not just because of my “surprise” birthday cake). Not only the food was great, but the chef turned out to be a proper artist, and was able to entertain us all while he was cooking.
Summing it up
MSC has managed to provide a great experience at scale, which is not an easy thing to do! MSC Meraviglia proves that large numbers are not opposed to quality.
The blossoming of the fruit trees in Aitona
What if I told you there’s a place in Europe where it’s possible to see a similar ephemeral phenomenon for a few weeks towards the end of Winter?
The region around Lleida, the capital of Western Catalonia, are famous for their fruit-growing agriculture. On the plains and rolling hills of the Segrià county, the fruit orchards extend as far as the eye can see, just that, unlike in Japan, here it is not cherry trees, but mainly peaches and pears that you get to see.
The result is equally, if not more, spectacular, although it had long remained somehow far from the public imagination.
The blossoming of the cherry trees, or “sakura”, is one of the most well known images of Japan and it draws people from all over the world.
This is starting to change now, with the introduction, by local authorities and businesses of fruit tourism products and activities, together with the accompanying marketing materials, signage and the like.
Remember, this is a very seasonal phenomenon, starting in late February or early March and lasting for 2-3 weeks. The exact dates to experience it at its height may vary a bit every year, so it is best to check with Aitona’s town council or with the local tourism organization.
At the heart of the fruit tourism experience are a couple of large estates that open their doors to tourists around these dates. Only organized groups are allowed in and on certain times during the weekends, since these are private commercial farms where all sorts of normal working activities are taking place.
The pink of the blossoming peach trees is the dominating colour, but far from being the only one. White (of pear trees, I think, but I am not an expert!) and green of other crops been grown in adjacent fields make for a truly multi-colour mosaic.
The water from the nearby Segre river, which flows between its source near Llívia, in the Pyrenees, and the Ebro river, makes possible this intensive agriculture in the lower Segrià basin.
This is particularly evident in the fruit growing estates where this blooming takes place.
They are traversed by a network of canals and hydraulic works, including the small reservoir of Utxesa, which divert some of the waters of the Segre river and use them to generate hydropower and water the crops.
Bonus track: archaeological sites - the Iberian settlement of Gebut (Soses)
Even if the flat lands of Western Catalonia are, generally speaking, a rather dry, steppe area, wherever there is water, civilization flourishes, and this has been the case here for many thousands of years.
One of the key campaigns of the Roman civil war between Caesar and Pompey was fought in this area (over control of the Segre passes and the nearby city of Ilerda, modern day Lleida). When that happened, this area was populated by an Iberian tribe called the Ilergetes and the vestiges of some of their settlements are found all over the area near Aitona.
The road between Aitona and Lleida runs along a series of low, semi-desertic hills (as soon as you get a few hundreds of meters from the river or irrigation works, the dryness of the area becomes again apparent!), and on top of one of them (located next to the town of Soses), it is possible to visit the ancient Iberian settlement of Gebut. To judge by the dimensions of the excavated area, this was possibly of a rather sizable settlement for the standards of the time (there are several other smaller archaeological sites in the area, such as the Poblat de la Genó, near the fruit orchards).
There is no museum or visitor’s center as such, although it is easily accessible from the road and there is a small parking where you can leave the car and then visit the ruins on foot. At the time of my visit I was the only visitor, but there was a member of the town’s service staff doing maintenance work and he kindly showed me around.
There is some signage that lets you get an idea of what was going on here around VII-VI C. BC, although there is still much to be uncovered here.
Archaeologists continue working on the site and making new findings, such as a defensive wall that possibly measured around 5 meters of height.
There is still so much that is not fully known about the Iberian civilization and lots of archaeological sites have been identified all over Catalonia that are still waiting to get proper love from archaeologists and the public alike!
48h in Iceland in winter: what to do and what to see
Iceland has become a very popular tourist destination in recent years and there are very good reasons for that. The list of natural wonders one can admire in Iceland is so long that a requires quite a few days to enjoy it thoroughly and it is well beyond the scope of this post.
Many people visiting Iceland, though, have relatively short time to make the most of their visit. This is particularly true of the many transit passengers traveling between Europe and America that get the chance to explore the country’s natural wonders.
In my case, it’s the national airline Icelandair that flew me there, giving me the chance to enjoy the amazing Saga Premium class, which I reviewed here.
I decided to make this, rather short, trip to Iceland after receiving an invitation to visit the bi-annual Icelandair Mid-Atlantic Tradeshow. It was great that, despite the intense professional programme, there was also some time for sightseeing in and outside Reykjavik.
What follows is my report and my recommendations for time-pressed first time visitors to Iceland!
Iceland Golden Ring Tour
This is a classic itinerary that can be day in a day (even half a day if hard pressed) starting and returning to Reykjavik. In fact, we did it during the month of January, when the Icelandic days are terribly short (it is dark until past 10am and again at around 4pm or so), nevertheless we managed to see quite a lot. Of course, we were in the hands of Reykjavik Excursions and a great guide, Albert, which, in addition to making the most out of our time to show us around and sharing the most interesting facts about each location we visited, he also kept us well entertained with its great Icelandic sense of humor!
Geysir geothermal area
This was our first stop, perfectly timed when the sun was already out. The Geysir area is know because, as the name indicates, this is an area where there is volcanic activity very close to the surface. Here you can admire the geyser that gives its name to the place, but also other boiling water springs.
The area is very easily accessible from the road, via a short walking path (in winter is advisable to bring warm clothing and waterproof shoes, though, since the soil can get really wet and damp!)
In recent years a large visitor’s center and a high end hotel have opened right next to the geysers area.
Here below is the geyser, which people congregate around to watch. I am not sure what is the frequency of the explosions, we had to wait only for about 5 minutes until one came up. Apparently it really depends on how much pressure the steam builds up underground.
Gullfoss Waterfall
This waterfall on the Hvítá river is a rather majestic sight.
The Gullfoss Waterfalls are actually two waterfalls in one. The top one is 11 meters tall, the lower one, 21. There are also two ways to approach it, the higher and lower one. We took the lower one, from where this picture is taken, which is very accessible by road.
Our guide told us that this waterfall was saved from being tamed and fitted with hydroelectric facilities in the early 20th century thanks to the constant fight of Sigríður Tómasdóttir, the young daughter of a local farmer Tómas Tómasson, who pretty much devoted her life to preserving this amazing landscape. At some point she even threatened to throw herself to the waterfall if the plans of the British developers went ahead. She persevered and she won and today the waterfalls are protected natural heritage.
If you are looking for a quintessentially Icelandic sight, this is it!
Friðheimar greenhouses
Is it possible to cultivate tomatoes and fruits commercially near the Arctic circle?
Yes! provided you have access to plenty of geothermal power. This is what drives this truly interesting agricultural and gastronomical business pretty much in the middle of the Arctic wilderness.
A couple of entrepreneurs from Reykjavik bought this farm in the 1990s with the idea to breed Icelandic horses here. They soon realized that the place offered other possibilities too!
Coming inside the Friðheimar greenhouse is like landing on another planet, particularly if, like us, you do so on a dark, cold winter day.
When you pass the door you come into a lush and warm, exuberant environment. You could as well be in the tropics!
What makes this place so interesting, though, is that Friðheimar is not just a greenhouse, but a gastronomic destination in its own right. Here you can eat surrounded by greenery, but, what’s more, you can learn the fascinating story of this place and how the family that owns it has been developing it using, mainly, the organically grown tomatoes that they harvest year-round.
Cherry tomatoes are the star here, but there are many other crops, such as aromatic basil, cucumbers or other vegetables and even fruits.
People learn here about the cultivation process, which includes organic, non-agressive pest control methods, and pollinization through the use of (imported) bees.
The menu is all based on local ingredients, with the tomato being, again, the star. Even the drinks have tomato as the base ingredient (there’s even tomato beer!)
There is also a shop where you can buy all sort of products made with the locally grown tomato, from sauce to jam. They also distribute it in supermarkets and shops throughout Iceland.
Oh, and the horse-breeding project was not abandoned. It is also well and thriving and visitors can also enjoy horse shows!
The whole concept of Friðheimar reminded me a bit of that of Mooma, in Catalonia, which I wrote about here, just that instead of apples this one is built around tomatoes.
Efstidalur II Dairy farm
Not far from Friðheimar, we made a pit stop at this dairy farm that is famous in Iceland because of its ice-cream.
This is not km.0 ice-cream, but pretty much “metre.0” ice-cream since the cow shed is literally integrated with the ice-cream shop, to the point that you are only separated by a thin glass window!
Also quite amazing to think that Icelandic cows produce enough milk to supply each inhabitant of this country with more than a litre of milk per day year-round!
Fontana Spa and Lake Laugarvatn
This is an ideal place to enjoy the thermal water of Iceland.
Located next to Lake Laugarvatn, this place has offered, for nearly 100 years, the possibility of bathing in hot springs. Volcanic activity here is close to the surface and, in some places, you just have to dig a few centimetres for boiling water to bubble to the surface.
At Fontana Spa you can bathe in a series of swimming pools with water at different temperatures, or spend some time in the sauna (the structure on the left of the picture) and alternate it with bathing in the icy waters of the lake!
But the other things this place is famous for is the geothermal bakery. Here they bake rye bread by digging a hole in the ground next to the thermal water springs.
The bread mix is left buried underground in a pot for it to bake overnight in the warm lava-heated ground, which acts as a natural oven a. 24h later, it gets dug out and immediately chilled in the waters of lake Laugarvatn and voilà! you have some delicious bread!
The next step is to try it and see whether it has baked as expected! From what we were told, there is some variability in how the bread gets cooked, since the natural heat is not always equally distributed throughout the ground at all times, so the flavour and consistency of the bread can vary considerably from one batch to the next.
Happy to report that we were lucky with the bread and it turned out to have an almost perfect consistency and a taste on par.
Even better if you eat the bread together with the locally-made organic butter and smoked trout from lake Laugarvatn.
We were actually told that when Gordon Ramsay visited this place, he was totally blown away by the flavours and immediately requested to go see the trout smoke house, which is located on the opposite shore of the lake, with a view to selling it in his restaurants in the US.
And, then, back to Reykjavik! (the traditional Golden Ring tour includes also a visit to the Þingvellir National Park, but we were short of time, so drove straight to the capital. Here are some of the landscapes we passed through before it became again dark.
Things to do and see in Reykjavik
Downtown Reyjkjavik
As you may imagine, Reykjavik is not a huge city, plus it is also considerably spread out, so the center is quite tiny. Nevertheless it is quite pleasant to walk through, even in a chilly winter day. Here are a couple of pics that give you a feel of the place.
You can see here, in the background, the contemporary glass-and-steel architecture of the Harpa concert hall (more about this singular building further down this text).
Hallgrímskirkja
This church is, perhaps, the most well known man-made landmark in Reykjavik and in the whole of Iceland.
Construction of this 74m-high Lutheran church started in the 1940s, but it was not considered finished until 1986! It was built in a modern style, with stylized, clean lines, that has turned it into one of the symbols of the country.
The church is on top of a small hill overlooking the center of the city and, in front of it, there is this statue of Leif Ericsson, the viking leader that is said to have been the first European to set foot in the Americas.
Harpa Concert Hall
I had the chance to get inside this building, not because of a concert, but because I attended an event that took place here.
While I don’t consider myself an expert in modern architecture, I quite liked the way it is designed, very modern but also quite spacious and functional (like most buildings in Iceland, a lot of care goes into great design!)
Whales of Iceland
This is an interesting museum about the sealife, and very particularly whales, that live in Icelandic waters.
Here you will find some 21 different whale replicas built at scale, with plenty of information about how they live and communicate. The museum offers also some sailing tours to go see the real thing (it is conveniently located in one of the city wharves).
I would have like to have had more time to go through all the collections properly!
Iceland Flyover
Located right next to Whales of Iceland, this is a totally recommended experience!
If you don’t have time to explore the nature of Iceland (or even if you do!), this is a thrilling full-motion movie that will make you feel as you were flying over the most spectacular natural spots of Iceland.
There is a bit of a short introductory story-telling part (with audiovisual animation) and then you move onto the circular cinema theatre, fasten your seatbelt and prepare for a truly immersive experience that will make your head spin!
Road trip through the heart of Germany - UPDATED
It is not as celebrated as its French or Italian counterparts, but the German countryside has a charm of its own…
The original post has been updated with additional tips, pictures and info from a second visit to Schwäbisch-Hall in late 2021.
It may not be as celebrated as its French or Italian counterparts, but the German countryside has a charm of its own.
In fact, to talk about “countryside” in Germany may not carry the same meaning as in other European countries where there is a more neat divided between urban and rural life. Germany’s economy is quite decentralized and you can find industrial activity pretty much everywhere. Even the smallest of towns may be part of a long, global supply chain that starts at the nearby Autobahn exit.
It is, in fact, one of these small-town global industrial giants that I had come to visit in this quiet corner of Germany, but, as usual, the long drive from Frankfurt Airport to my final destination of Schwäbisch Hall offered some interesting sightseeing opportunities along the way.
While Germany’s larges cities where bombed almost to obliteration during WW2 and, therefore pretty much all you see around is either modern or reconstructed, small cities in towns have often managed to preserve quite well their old, traditional looks.
Driving from Frankfurt International Airport to Schwäbisch Hall
The 200km-long route on the rented car had some surprises in store…
Although I set out from Frankfurt (FRA) with the idea of stopping somewhere around half-way for a quick bite. Serendipity intervened in quite an unexpected way.
Sinsheim, Germany
Imagine you are driving along the Autobahn, concentrated looking ahead and all the sudden you get a glimpse, just ahead of you, on one side…of a Concorde…yes, nothing less than the now-retired supersonic airliner….But what if I told you that, next to it there was a…wait for it…a Tupolev Tu-144, the Concorde’s Soviet equivalent!
I could not believe my eyes at first, but as I the car got nearer it became clearer that this was no mirage.
As soon as the first exit sign appeared on the side of the road, I didn’t hesitate. That was the first (unscheduled) stop of the trip and well worth it.
Technik Museum Sinsheim
The Auto & Technik Museum Sinsheim is quite a treat for anyone with an interest in all sort of vehicles and moving machines. A proper celebration of motion technology.
A Tupolev Tu-104, the first viable jet airliner in the World, a Tu-144, the “Concordsky” and the Concorde, all in one row
In my case were the aircraft on display that caught my eye, but these are just a part of the larger collection that includes a large number of classical cars, tanks and railway material as well.
In fact, it is quite amazing how in the middle of a non-descript German provincial town you can find such an amazing technology museum.
Since my time was somehow limited, I did not pay the full ticket to get inside of the two industrial-style buildings that contain the indoor collections, mainly cars, and I went, instead, to see the aircraft collection, which is totally outdoors.
Aircraft from different eras, both civilian and military, on display in the most incredible positions from the roof of the museum and even on top of several stalls in the parking lot.
Here are some of the pictures that I took before heading back to the Autobahn, as I intended to reach Schäbisch Hall in daylight.
As you can see, some of the most iconic aircraft of aviation history are represented at the Sinsheim museum outdoor display: the Junkers Ju-52, The Douglas DC-3, the Concorde…
Bad Wimpfen, Germany
Next stop was not far ahead: the tiny village of Bad Wimpfen, a short 10km detour from the Autobahn.
As all German places with the word “Bad” in their name, Bad Wimpfen is a spa town. In this case, the exploitation of a natural salt-water source during the 19th Century for therapeutical uses is at the origin of this name.
The wall-enclosed old town its on an elevated escarpment overlooking the river Neckar.
Bad Wimpfen has actually a very long history, as this area was settled already in pre-Roman times. Most of the old town developed in the Middle Ages, when the town got its status as “market town” and even some German emperors passed through it occasionally.
The cobbled streets and wood-framed houses, some of them dating back to the 13th Century, give it a sort of fairy tale atmosphere. Bad Wimpfen is still today a market town, but on the day that I visited, a cloudy Winter working day, little was seemed to be happening. In fact, I hardly saw anyone during my short walk through the pedestrianised center of the old town.
One piece of advice I would give is: bring small change coins with you if visiting Bad Wimpfen, all parking spaces around the old town are paid by the meter, but unless you have a resident’s pass, the machines only admit coins (no cards or notes).
Schwäbisch Hall, Germany
A scale model of the old town of Schwäbisch-Hall
Another 45 minutes in the car would take me to the ultimate destination of this trip, the curiously named city of Schäbisch Hall.
(actually I got curious about the name, so I checked it only and it is apparently a combination of a reference to the Swabian League, a German medieval confederation of different territories, and the word Hall, that often refers to places where salt was produced)
If you are accessing the historical center from the other side of the river, you will have the chance to cross a couple of old stone bridges, one of them with a wooden roof, which makes it a bit more picturesque
Schwäbisch Hall is a town of some 40,000 inhabitants. The old town is nested on a foothill along the banks of the river Kocher, that traverses its urban center.
It was already getting dark when I arrived, so the light was far from ideal to take pictures, but at least I had enough time for a stroll through the streets of the nicely preserved historical center.
The old town is built on an inclined planed, literally on the side of a hill, and presided by the towering presence of the church of St.Michael, right in the center of the Marktplatz (or “market square”).
This focal point, the main place of interest in Schwäbisch Hall, is on the upper part of the old town, so you need to walk up some steep streets to reach it.
Schwabisch Hall Marktplatz and Saint Michael church in the evening hours
Portico of the church of Saint Michael in Schwäbisch-Hall
Unlike other German market squares, the one at Schwäbisch Hall has the particularity of not being flat, the floor it is built on has quite a steep gradient. Perhaps to compensate for this, the church has quite an impressive set of stairs at the front.
There are quite a few remarkable houses around the Marktplatz and, as you can see here, not all of them are timber-framed!
Also, at the edge of the old town, on the banks of the river, there is a modern shopping area, but well integrated in the harmonious style of its surroundings.
Timber-framed houses are all over Schwäbisch Hall
Here are some more pics of my second visit to town. As you can tell from the light and colours, I enjoyed somehow sunnier weather this second time around!
Where to stay in Schwäbisch Hall
Kronprinz Hotel
Bahnhofstraße 17, 74523 Schwäbisch Hall
http://hotel-kronprinz-schwaebischhall.de
This four star independent hotel is located next to the river bank, just opposite the historical center (if you get a room on the upper floors you get the views).
The decor is a far cry from the contemporary design that prevails in most business hotels nowadays, here you will find more of a “homey” atmosphere. Also important is the fact that it is just 5min walk from the very center, yet not exactly in the core of the old town, which I guess facilitates it having its own parking space (always quite handy in the narrow streets of Europe’s old towns). Not luxurious, but clean and correct.
Hotel SMartino
Dolanallee 17
74523 Schwäbisch Hall
This is a functional, modern hotel that provides great value. There is just a caveat, though, and it is that you will need a car, since the hotel is in the outskirts of Schwäbisch-Hall, on a little hill and next to the town’s small airport (which gets only executive and general aviation flights).
The hotel has its own parking for guests and, in any case, it is no more than a couple of km from the very center of town, so it is actually quite convenient.
To be clear, this a motel-type place, but in a nice way, even stylish in a sort of contemporary designer style. The breakfast was also pretty good.
An interesting excursion around Schwäbisch Hall
Hohenloher Freilandmuseum
The next day, after finishing my work commitments, as I had still quite a few hours to make my way leisurely to Frankfurt Airport, I decided to stop at the Hohenloher Freilandmuseum.
Located in a rural area just a few km from Schwäbisch Hall, the Hohenloher Freilandmuseum is an open air museum that aims to display how life was in this part of Germany in centuries past.
The museum is actually spread over several hectares. Buildings from several location in Baden-Würtenberg were dismantled and brought here to the reassembled.
Although the museum was, technically, closed when I arrived, one of the paths that leading to its grounds was open, so there I went. After all, I was not interested in one specific aspect of German rural life, but looking to get a sense of the place.
As I approached a cluster of houses, each of them representative of a specific rural construction style, I stumbled upon some people that were doing repair work.
One of them offered to show me one of the houses so that I could get a glimpse of what the museum is about. Thanks to him I can show you what’s inside this 16th Century German farmhouse.
I must say, though, that one of the places I liked the most was the old train station. This station was also brought to the Hohenloher Freilandmuseum from its original location.
It even has a tiny old steam locomotive on display!
The Tower of Vallferosa, a 1000-year old unique fortification
One of the best preserved examples of early medieval fortification in Europe
If you have been to Central Asia the outline of this tower may look familiar and, most likely, it is not by coincidence.
The Tower of Vallferosa (“Torre de Vallferosa” in Catalan language) is nowadays located in a sparsely populated area in the highlands of Central Catalonia, less than 100 miles from Barcelona.
About 1,000 years ago this was right at the point of contact between two civilizations.
To the north, the Catalan Counties, to the south, the lands of Al-Andalus. This 33-meter tower, or we should rather say, two towers, since there are actually two concentric cilindric structures, was part of the fortified border that separated Christendom from the Islamic world.
The tower dates back to at least 970 AD but, in fact, it is possible that there was already some sort of earlier fortification or, at the very least, that there was some sort of influence from Islamic architecture.
There are plenty of towers, castles and fortifications dating back to that era, currently half-hidden in the forests and hills of rural Catalonia, but this one is unique, not just because of its scale, but also because of its great state of preservation.
To get to the tower you would either need to drive through a dit track (which passes through private land, so I am not sure it is open to everyone, or trek a couple of miles from the nearby Torà to Solsona road (which, by the way, offers some great views of the vast forests that cover this region). It is an easy, wide track with a bit of gradient, but shouldn’t be an issue for anyone without serious mobility issues, including children.
The tower has gone through some restoration work recently, but unclear up to what extent. One of the elements that has been added is a wooden staircase and platform that allows you to climb to about half the height of the tower, where one of its gates is located (although it was closed when I visited).
The tower is actually in much remarkably better state than the adjacent, currently abandoned, hamlet and its 17th C. church, Sant Pere de Vallferosa, which are in themselves quite a suggestive sight.
There are still some inhabited farmhouses around this area, but the village was abandoned at some point in the mid-20th C.
Although its location now seems remote, at the time of its construction, the tower must have been guarding a way for cattle and perhaps for salt (from the Cardona mines further north) between the uplands towards the southern plains.
The tower of Vallferosa is one of the few of this age and time that has made it to our day with practically no modifications, even a section of the original roof seems to have been preserved.
Note also how the door was situated at a height of 10m, which, in case of attach allowed the defenders to remove the staircase and make it very hard to reach without the proper equipment.
Besides being an interesting trekking excursion, a visit to the Tower of Vallferosa can be complemented by a stop at the nearby village of Torà (in whose territory it is located).
While the modern part of the village is nothing special, it has a, admittedly small, historical center that is worth a visit if you wish to do a technical stop to replenish supplies on the drive to or from the tower.
Penelles, the Catalan village that became Europe's street art capital
How a small rural village became a huge open air museum
Wondering which place on earth that, possibly, concentrates more art per capita?
Forget about Paris, Florence or Venice…
Penelles, a tiny village (pop. 400) in the agrarian flatlands of Western Catalonia, emerges as a likely candidate.
That is, of course, provided you consider street mural painting an art genre, and I am pretty sure after visiting Penelles, you will have no doubts about the answer to this question...
Cinema Paradiso makes an appearance in Penelles (Catalonia)
For the last 4 years this eminently rural settlement is the setting of an international mural painting festival that is seeing more and more of its houses and buildings converted into works of art.
Plenty of storks around too!
The Gargar Festival (named after the “gar-gar” sound made by a species of pin-tailed sandgrouse, a bird that abounds in the area) started as an initiative of some local artistic entrepreneurs and has since gathered institutional support and recognition, just becoming bigger and bigger every year. It usually takes place in May.
Also the topics have become more diverse. At the start it was mainly topics connected to rural life, but nowadays you can find all sort of themes and styles.
Similarly, several local inhabitants have seen their portraits in large format paintings.
To this date, over a 100, mostly large scale, mural paintings adorn local houses.
The mural paintings of Penelles - A collection
We visited recently and spend a good deal of time walking the streets and documenting the most interesting pictures. What follows is a compilation of some of the most spectacular mural painting you can find on the streets of Penelles. Enjoy!
At the time of writing these lines it is not clear whether the 5th edition of the Gargar Festival will take place, in view of the restrictive measures put in place to stop the coronavirus epidemic.
In any case, whether this year or the next, it is only to be expected that the Penelles open air museum will just get bigger and more interesting!
How to get to Penelles
Penelles is some 150km West of Barcelona
The village is located just a couple of kilometres off the C-53 road, that links Tarrèga and Balaguer, in the province of Lleida.
From Barcelona the best way is to drive through the A-2 free motorway and exit at Anglesola, just past Tarrèga.
It takes about 1h 45min to drive all the way from Barcelona.
There are also bus services from either Lleida (L-110, one daily on weekdays) and Tarrèga (L-205, 3-4 daily depending on the day). You can check the timetables here.
A Day in Palermo
Everything else is in the shadow
What to do an what to see in Palermo, Sicily
24 hours is an awfully short time to experience one of Western Europe’s most ancient cities in continuous habitation. Yet, readers of this blog are not alien to this sort of lightning visits, that although brief, provide a glimpse into fascinating worlds.
It’s not the goal of this post to make a list of the numerous peoples and civilizations that have made of Sicily their home throughout millenia (there is plenty of info out there for those interested in the full historical account), all the way up to more infamous associations that have stuck in popular imagination (“everything else is in the shadow” as a Sicilian promotional slogan stated a few years ago!).
Instead, on this post I would try to present a number of highlights that I managed to visit during my short stay in the Sicilian capital, I hope it captures, if only a little bit, the essence of what a traveller can find and see in Palermo nowadays.
Because, besides the many specific attractions, such as magnificent Palazzo Normanni (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) or the Cathedral (both covered in this post), Palermo is eminently a city to walk around, a places that oozes “mediterranean-ness” through and through.
This is also the reason this is mainly a very visual picture-heavy post.
A walk through Palermo
Although very old (it was founded by the Phoenicians centuries before Roman domination), Palermo is like a living organism, that sheds some layers to get some new on top. This is why most of the central area doesn’t look “that” old. It is not a museum, but a breathing city.
In fact, the 19th century and the Italian Risorgimento (a political change that still today generates mixed feelings in Sicily) could be considered a rather recent period for Palermo’s standards, but has left its imprint in the very center of the city, with its broad avenues and neoclassical opera houses
In contrast to other historical Italian cities, it is quite easy to navigate the very center of Palermo.
Besides being at the heart of the commercial activity, avenues such as the Via della Libertà and the Via Maqueda cut through the seaside plain where most of the city is located and provide also an easy way to access its most ancient core.
Street market in Palermo, where all sort of fruit, vegetables, fish and other merchandise is sold. Mediterraneanness in full swing.
As there was a national celebration on those days, plenty of shops decorated with , always elegant, Italian military fashion
Fruit vendors on the streets of Palermo. Citrus fruits are the local stars
And as it was the start of the Winter, chestnut vendors added to the picture
But if you were coming to Palermo looking for the picturesque, for a quintessentially Mediterranean postcard: narrow blooming streets, laundry left hanging from balconies to dry, colourful markets…you certainly will get that as well!
A walk through the old part of of Palermo gets you some scenes that are typically Mediterranean and certainly the one that matches what many would expect. Almost like a postcard.
Monumental Palermo
Quattro Canti, a reference point in the center of the old town. Its name “four corners” refers to the symmetry of the richly decorated (and a tad dilapidated, but in an interesting way) façades
They say one image is worth more than a thousand words, and I think this possibly applies to websites and blogs as well, so…
The Fontana Pretoria, a monumental fountain that, interestingly enough was originally built in Florence and, later, disassembled in 644 pieces and moved to Palermo in 1574!
Church of Saint Catherine of Alexandria
The Church of San Cataldo is a rather unique structure, built in the XII Century in Arab-Norman style and featuring no less than three red round cupolas. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The church of San Giovanni degli Eremiti is very ancient, tracing back its origins to the 6th century.
If the San Giovanni degli Eremiti is interesting in itself, it is also surrounded by a garden and the ruins of an old cloister, now partly taken over by exuberant lemon, fig and palm trees
The church of San Giovanni degli Eremiti features also the red domes that are characteristic of the Sicilian Arab-Norman style. This church is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site
Palermo Cathedral
The massive, monumental cathedral of Palermo was built from the 12th Century on top on an earlier church
There is plenty to see inside the cathedral, of course, but if you have the chance, you should get up the roof for some amazing views of the city of Palermo and its magnificent natural setting!
Palazzo dei Normanni
If the cathedral is interesting enough, hold your breath for the even more spectacular Palazzo dei Normanni next door and the amazing Cappella Palatina.
The Palazzo dei Normanni (or “Palace of the Normans”) has been a sit of power for over a millennium. In fact, as it is located in the highest ground in the city, its location has been occupied since Phoenician times. The Normans built here their royal palace (hence its name) in the XI century.
But the jewel of this massive fortified building is the Cappella Palatina (“Palatine Chapel”).
Although commissioned by the Normans, the chapel’s style clearly shows the Eastern influences, Byzantine and Arabic, with an interior gleaming with golden mosaics and intricately carved roofs.
If you have limited time in Palermo, do make sure this one is on top of your list!
Besides a museum and a major tourist attraction, the Palazzo Normanni continues to be in use for a number of present-day functions, not least of them, is being the seat of the Sicilian assembly (the regional parliament) and of an astronomical observatory.
Not everything is medieval at Palazzo dei Normanni, here is for example a Chinese-style room.
Where to stay in Palermo
Hotel Federico II
Via Principe di Granatelli, 60, 90139 Palermo
https://www.hotelfedericopalermo.it
This is a nice and very central independent hotel.
Its interior has all the modern comforts, but the rooms have also a classical touch that is very fitting to the place.
The hotel Federico II is located on one on the side streets off the main commercial axis and literally 5 minutes away by foot from the historical center.
Where to eat in Palermo
One of the best things of Palermo is, you name it! the food
Il Culinario
Via Concettina Ramondetti Fileti, 24/26
90133, Palermo
Food is one of the main reasons to travel to Palermo and Sicily. In this case, time did allow only for a limited tasting of local specialities.
This, quite centrally located, place is a rather casual osteria. It was busy all the time and at least part of the clientele were locals.
We sought some advice from the staff and the result is what you can see in pics below. It did not disappoint.
Service was efficient and pricing was rather reasonable as well!
During the day we ate mainly on the go. In this regard, the local speciality to try (and it makes for very convenient “fast food Sicilian edition” are the “arancini”, which resemble a falafel, but made of rice. They are available in different flavours.
Special mention also to Sicilian sweets, that are a constant temptation during the city walks. Get your pick!
3 Food Courts that are Redefining Moscow's Culinary Experience
A world of flavours in the heart of Moscow
The emergence of Moscow as a gastronomical capital has already been well documented and one of the great food stories of the last decade.
But a less reported aspect of this trend is the fact that, alongside the upmarket (and often overpriced) award-winning restaurants, a whole new breed of food courts and markets have also popped up in different areas of the city, offering an impressive selection of international cuisine choices at democratic prices.
Truth be told, there were already plenty of casual dining options in Moscow, but the novelty is in how these have now been brought together, literally, under the same roof, recovering some emblematic historical buildings along the way and transforming how new generations of urbanites eat out in the Russian capital.
Where to find Moscow’s best food courts, food malls and gastronomic markets?
Read on to enter the Moscow food court revolution!
Tsentralniy Rinok (Центральный рынок) - “Central Market”
True to its name, Moscow’s Tsentralniy Rinok (or “Central Market”) is located right in the middle of one of the boulevards that ring the inner area of central Moscow.
A market of some sort has existed at this spot at least since the mid-19th C, although it was not until later in the mid 20th C. that a proper market building was built. Like other institutions in Russia, the market suffered during the messy years following the fall of the Soviet system and it was closed in 1994.
It would take over two decades for a new project for the Central Market to be reborn. In 2017 Tsentralniy Rinok re-opened. It’s external appearance had been more or less preserved, but inside it had gone through an total and thorough redesign, an entirely different concept.
Tsentralniy Rinok (Центральный рынок)
Rozhdestvensky Blvd, 1
Moscow 07031
https://moscowcentralmarket.ru
Metro: Trubnaya / Svetnoy Boulevard
A modern food court in a classic building
Unlike other Moscow food courts, Tsentralniy Rinok is devoted almost entirely to eating out. No market stalls here, but close to 50 casual eating stalls representing a broad diversity of different cuisines from around the world.
This international focus is actually one of the differential points of Central Market. There are, of course, some food outlets offering foods classical of the region, for example, food from the Russian north or Georgian food (there’s even has a bakery where you can see how bread is baked in a traditional oven), but most of the space is devoted to specialities from other parts of the world, Moroccan tagine, Swiss raclette, Mexican tacos, Japanese food, Chinese food and more….
Besides some classics, like Chinese food (below), there is also a re-evaluation of specialities from the Russian regions, such as “northern cuisine” (above). Also the idea of sourcing and traceability is also making inroads as you can see in this illustrated poster map that depicts where the different types of fish and seafood at the Central Market have been sourced from.
Most of the action is at the central food court.
The market-like purpose-built architecture has facilitated the structuring of the market offerings all around the central space on the lower floor.
There are also a (less busy) upper floor and a lower ground floor.
The structure of the building is the original, but the inside has been completely redone, including the roof that has also got some greenery in the process!
Usachyovskiy Market (“Усачевский рынок”)
Usachevskiy Market traces its roots back to the 19th C. when a trader called Usachev was based at this spot on the Khamovnikov (Хамовников) area of Moscow.
Since 2017 Usachevskiy Market has enjoyed a new lease of life after undergoing extensive renovation.
Compared to the other two food courts-markets featured in this post, Usachevskiy market is still primarily a market, with stall overflowing with all sorts of fresh produce.
Nevertheless, there is also a food court at Usachevskiy market also quite a few interesting options for those that looking for a spot where to eat out.
Seafood is a particular star here, with several places offering a selection of fish, oysters and other crustaceans. But there are also some international choices, from Greek to Asian food.
Depo (“Депо”)
I have deliberately left for last what is arguably the largest and most diverse of Moscow’s new generation food courts
“Depo Moscow Foodmall”, which opened in 2019, claims to be the largest food mall in Europe and while I have no way to verify this, it is certainly very large and a remarkable sensory experience.
Its name “Depo” is not coincidental: it is housed in what used to be the maintenance depot of Moscow’s municipal bus company.
Depo is part of a rather large red-brick compound very close to Belorusskaya station, one of Moscow’s main business hubs (many multinational companies have their offices nearby) and the terminus of Aeroexpress, the direct fast train to Sheremetyevo airport.
In addition to the foodmall, some of the nearby buildings house restaurants, cafés or shops, thus helping make of this also a rather busy culinary entrepot
Depo Moscow Foodmall
Lesnaya Ulitsa, 20
Moscow 125047
Metro: Belorruskaya or Novoslobodskaya
Welcoming visitors at Depo are some of the old buses that used this facility when it was a repair and maintenance shop. A nice touch that, in addition to paying homage to the place’s heritage, adds a touch of character and uniqueness (not to mention that old buses can make for a nice Martini bar too!).
Before making you choices I would recommend any first time visitors to Depo to walk around and check out the different aisles thoroughly, the amount of food choices is simply staggering!
More than 60 food establishments have a stall at Depo, with pretty much all major culinary styles from around the world represented here: Russian, Central Asian, Chinese, Vietnamese, Italian, Middle Eastern, Greek, Japanese…there’s even a traditional English pie shop!
Seating is available on a couple of larger open halls, but also in myriad other smaller spaces scattered on two levels all over this larger former industrial setting.
A little army of service staff makes sure that all is impeccably clean. Make sure you don’t leave your food try unattended for even a few minutes…chances are that it will be removed and thrown to the bin!
If there’s a place where the paradox of choice can be plainly explained and experienced, this is Depo! Granted, it may not be high cuisine, but we are talking tasty, varied and reasonably priced casual eating here.
Just imagine working in one of the nearby office blocks and compare with the typical workplace canteen. Or let’s say you can’t make your mind and want to try small portions, mixing different tastes and products. Or you are a group with varied preferences. Problem sorted!
In addition to the ready to eat food, there is also a market at Depo, where you can buy different types of products, from dried fruit to fresh vegetables and imported products. Unlike the restaurant stalls, it is rather upmarket here.
Talking upmarket…there is even a small Gucci store within the premises!
And it is not just about food…the central hall at Depo has also a stage for all sort of shows and performances.
In short, the latest major addition to Moscow’s food scene has lots going for it. Definitely a must visit if you happen to be around the Beloruskaya/Novoslobodskaya area and feeling hungry!
San Marino - "The Ancient Land of Liberty"
A day in the world’s oldest republic
What if I told you that the oldest nation-state in the world in continuous existence is the small land-locked Republic of San Marino?
Surrounded by Italian territory on all sides, the preservation of this political relic, which claims its origins stretch all the way back to the early 4th C. AD, seems almost like a miracle.
Perhaps divine intervention has had something to do with it, after all the Most Serene Republic of San Marino is named after a monk that went to live as an hermit on the slopes of Mount Titano, the mountain that is, both in a physical and spiritual sense, at the core of this proudly independent nation.
Even more remarkable is the fact that San Marino emerged unscathed from the political and military shake-up that was the Italian Risorgimento, which brought the many different kingdoms, dukedoms and states that until the mid-19th C. dotted the Italian Peninsula under the rule of an unified Italian state.
But what is there to do and to see in San Marino that makes it well worth a visit?
Keep reading to find out…
The Border
“Benvenuti nell’Antica Terra della Libertà” (which is Italian for “Welcome to the Ancient Land of Liberty”)
It took us about an hour drive from Bologna, where we had rented the car, to this road sign marking that informed us that we were about to enter this tiny sovereign island within the European Union.
Was it not for its presence, both on traffic signs and inscribed on the sides of a pedestrian elevated crossing, we would have hardly noticed that we were leaving Italy to enter one of Europe’s remaining micro-states and one of the smallest sovereign nations on Earth.
In fact, entering San Marino can feel a bit like an anti-climatic moment for enthusiasts of geographical curiosities. There are no border barriers of any sort between San Marino and Italy and no one to watch over the line. A simple concrete marking in the middle of a bridge (a dry river-bed marks the border) suffices.
The lack of border policing is, however, not due to a lack of police and military bodies in the tiny Republic.
Despite having a population of just over 30,000, San Marino has not only its own police force, but also a Gendarmerie, and several other military corps: the Guardia de Rocca (Guards of the Rock), the Guard of the Council, a volunteer Uniformed Militia and even a Crossbow Corps!
Nowadays these are, obviously confined to ceremonial duties, some of them faced no less than the Wehrmacht during WW2, when they help allied (mainly British and Indian) troops round up German prisoners after the Battle of of San Marino (also called the Battle of Monte Pulito), that took place partly within the confines of the Republic.
Although less dramatic, in the post-war years San Marino saw episodes of political upheaval which included a semi-successful coup that culminated in a rather bizarre episode that unfolded, literally, in one of the corners of the country, the so called Fatti di Rovereta.
In any case, and whether due to this impressive array of police and military units or because of the good nature of their inhabitants, San Marino tops the global league tables when it comes to incarceration rates, with total figures usually in the single digits (on some years, such as 2011, the figure can be as low as one person!). So, I guess, you can feel really safe here!
Visiting Monte Titano and the Old Town of San Marino
Once in Sammarinese territory, you may wanna get up to the top of Mount Titano, where the capital and pretty much everything else of interest (besides de border itself) is located.
And the best and most scenic way to do so is to park your car in the plain and take the cable car (called “Funivia di San Marino”) all the way up to the old town. A return ticket costs €4.5.
When you get uptown, you may think you have reached some sort of fairy tale principality, particularly if, as it was our case, you inadvertently arrive on the day in which the Captain-Regents rotate and there are soldiers in their traditional vintage uniforms walking around.
The ceremony to change the two Captains-Regents is one of the most prominent features of the very peculiar political system of San Marino, one of only two countries in the world (the other is Andorra), where the responsibility of head of state is exercised at the same time by two people (technically known as a “diarchy”).
In the case of San Marino, these two people, the Captain-Regents, that are at the same time Heads of State and Heads of Government, are changed by rotation every six months.
Whenever is time to renew them, a ceremony takes place at the Palazzo Pubblico (San Marino’s government house) in the old town’s main square.
But even if you just visit on a normal day, you likely won’t be disappointed. This is not because there are any major attractions in San Marino’s old town, but because of the rather harmonious ensemble: nice views, plenty of flowers and the allure of walking through the heart of what is possibly one of the world’s oldest democracies. The old town and Mount Titano are classed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.
Those interested in political tourism and memorabilia have three things to do in San Marino: first of all, go to the tourist office to get a stamp in your passport. As we explained earlier, there is no border control or customs when you drive into San Marino from Italy, but those avid to collect passport stamps can get a very nice one upon request. You just need to walk into the Tourist Office, pay €5 and they will stick a nice stamp with the San Marino’s coast of arms onto your passport. A rather original souvenir!
You can also get San Marino postal stamps and a San Marino Euro coin set at any of the many souvenir shops in the old town. These sells for more than its nominal value of €12, but given the scarcity of Sammarinese euro coinage it is likely to fetch higher prices elsewhere.
Other than that, truth be told, when it comes to shopping, there is little else of interest in San Marino.
The other must is the fortress, the “Rocca” in Italian.
It is located at the very top of Mount Titano, a mountain with an elongated shape raising from the adjacent plains as if it was the crest of a wave.
Regardless of the historical value of the well preserved (or restored) castle, from here you can enjoy some amazing views. Obviously of the whole republic of San Marino but also beyond, all the way to the sea and Rimini (the closest decently-sized city).
And this is it, really.
I would like to post some recommendation about where to stay in San Marino, but we didn’t spend the night there and went to Rimini instead, where there are literally hundreds of hotels, since it is a major seaside resort.
Neither can I write any recommendation about where to eat in San Marino, because we did not really find any place worth the mention. Perhaps because we got there a bit late to conduct some proper research, but we ended up eating a re-heated pizza slice in a non-descript bar by the main shopping street. Nothing to write home about, even less on this site.
To be fair, San Marino packs as much charm and picturesqueness in its 61 sq km of territory as you could possibly ask for!
What to see near San Marino: San Leo (Italy)
Bonus points: if there is enough time, I would recommend combining a trip to San Marino with that of nearby San Leo, already in Italian territory.
San Leo is a rather picturesque, hilltop village located on a rocky outcrop (to get there you need to drive through a rather narrow road that at some points seems to have been literally carved out of the rock.
It does have cobbled streets, houses painted in ochre tones, a 12th C. church, a town square with a nice stone fountain and a pretty impressive fortress that looks like every castle should look like, with four massive round stone towers protecting each one of its corners (although unfortunately I did not have time to take a picture before it got dark!).
Winter in Sakhalin, Russia's largest island
Russia’s best kept secret
Sakhalin is the largest Russian island. It is larger than Ireland, yet, barely half a million people live on it, most of them in the capital, that lies at its southern tip.
I had wanted to visit this far-flung part of Russia for already quite some time and the opportunity just came up during winter time, which is sort of low season there, but, on the other hand, allowed me to discover a proper snowy wonderland where few tourists venture.
Right after my trip I published this article on CNN, where I compiled some of my impressions from my visit to the island, but I was left with the feeling that one single piece was not enough to describe this very interesting, off-the-beaten path destination as thoroughly as I would have wanted.
So, I decided to pen yet another post with some extra pictures and additional information that didn’t make it to the CNN article.
Visiting Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk
This was a quick, 3-day trip to Sakhalin.
Take away jet-lag recovery (Sakhalin is 10 hours ahead of Moscow, the city I was flying from) and the morning transfers and waiting time at the airport and I was left with something like 48 hours “effective” hours to explore the island.
So my visit was focused on Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, the capital city. However, I could arrange a private tour: a half-day excursion along the Eastern coast of the island. And this was a great decision, the experience certainly did not disappoint me! (more on this further in this post).
How to get to Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk
Sakhalin is just 40km north of the island of Hokkaido and there is a ferry that travels between this northernmost Japanese island and Korsakov, a port in southern Sakhalin.
The most practical way to get to get to Sakhalin, though, is by air.
Although rather small, Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk has an international airport with regular connections to Japan, South Korea and China, in addition to Vladivostok, the capital of Russia’s Far East, on the mainland. For travellers coming from Europe, though, the easiest and cheapest way is, in most case, via Moscow.
There are daily direct flights between Moscow and Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, operated by both Aeroflot and its subsidiary Rossiya, and it is possible to find very reasonably priced tickets if you fly off-season. For example, I could get a ticket for some €350 return, which is rather good for a 10-hour flight!
The airport is not far from the centre of Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk. There is little in the way of public transportation, but a taxi ordered through the Yandex.taxi (an app that I recommend downloading to everyone visiting Russia - it is also the local Uber partner) application should cost no more than 500 rubles (or around €7-8, less than $10).
If travelling in Winter, get some warm clothes, since it can be pretty cold! You have been warned!
By the way, the region of Sakhalin includes also the Kuril Islands (as this poster at Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk airport conveniently reminds us). This is definitely a destination I would consider for another trip, although foreigners need a special permit to be able to visit (the southern Kurils have been the object of a territorial dispute with Japan since the end of WW2).
Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk airport is far from grandiose. In fact, at the time of my visit, its old terminal was showing quite evident signs of ageing and decay. The good news are that a new terminal is already being built next to it following modern standards. It should be ready sometime in 2020.
(You can find more about commercial aviation and traveling by air in the Russian Far East in this article)
Things to do and things to see in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk
One of the first sights one comes across when driving into Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk is the gleaming towers of the Cathedral of the Nativity.
This is, apparently, the largest Orthodox church in the Russian Far East and it was inaugurated as recently as 2016!
It is located on a hillside elevation on the eastern side of town, right next to two other attractions of the city: the WW2 museum and one of the access points (via lift) to the ski resort of Gorniy Vozdukh (“mountain air” in Russian).
The contrast between the traditional, rather majestic, religious architecture of the cathedral and the, also monumental, military museum next door, makes for quite a few impressive perspectives, particularly on a sunny morning, when the snow and the cupolas reflect the rays of the sun!
City Center and War Memorials
Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk is a city of wide, straight avenues forming a grid. The buildings are , for the most part, Soviet-style residential blocks, although not as tall or dense as those found in Moscow or other cities in the Western part of Russia. Scattered all over the place you can find also some more modern constructions, offices and commercial centres, I’d say of a rather uninspiring architectural style.
The dimensions of the city mean that most of downtown is walkable, though.
Pretty much all avenues are fitted with broad pedestrian sidewalks that allow for rather pleasant walks when the weather is sunny. The reticular pattern of the streets means that it is relatively easy to find your way around.
You can also extend the walk into Gagarin Park, the city’s main urban recreation area. It has quite an amusement park, a reservoir and its very own miniature railways.
Sakhalin Railway Museum
Talking about railways, next to the Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk’s railway station (there is one single rail line in Sakhalin, that runs along the whole length of the island) there is what looks like a rather interesting railway museum with several historical locomotives on display outdoors.
Unfortunately, I did not have time to step inside, but i could check some of the historical locomotives from the outside.
Sakhalin Regional Museum
This is yet another must-see place in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk. Don’t be misled by the rather humble, unassuming name.
This is a small museum, granted. But it is a great place to get in a relatively short time, quite a comprehensive view of the natural and human history of the island of Sakhalin, with a special mention to the role of Sakhalin as a bone of contention between the Russian and Japanese empires (in fact, the Southern half of the island, including Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, was under Japanese rule for several decades until the end of WW2)
To add interest to the museum, the building where it is housed is one of the few buildings left from the time of Japanese rule, as it is pretty obvious from the style if was built in.
A Japanese, WW2-era light tank
During WW2, Sakhalin went from being as far as it gets from the front (while the Soviet Union was fighting Germany in Europe) to becoming a front line in the last few weeks of the war, when the Soviets joined the fight against Japan.
Military history is very present all around the city. In addition to the dedicated WW2 museum, there are quite a few places where it is possible to see all sorts of vintage military hardware, from tanks and artillery to fighter jets, as you can see in these images.
And these are Soviet tanks, also from WW2
But the most gripping, solemn, of all the military-related points of interest in Sakhalin is the war memorial dedicated to those fallen in WW2, or “Great Patriotic War” as the Russians prefer to call it.
Skiing in Sakhalin
Another interesting and rather unique thing you can do in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk is the opportunity to ski in a semi-urban setting..
The ski resort of Gorniy Vozdukh is located on a hill side overlooking the city and you can, actually, take the lift pretty much from the city centre, since the base access point is located next to the cathedral, as you can see in the photo below.
It is a small resort, but it has the views! Where else can you ski within sight of a city of half a million?
Despite there being plenty of snow (or perhaps because of this) when I visited, in early December, the slopes were not open to the public yet. Workers were rushing to get everything ready for the season’s opening.
Shopping in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk
Although Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk is not exactly a great shopping destination, there is the one thing that you can’t miss: fish and seafood!
Sakhalin is a sort of seafood-lovers paradise (and in fact all over Russia, seafood from Sakhalin and the country’s Far East enjoys a well deserved reputation).
Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk fish market is, thus, another must for any visitor. Here you will find all sort of seafood: fresh, canned, dried…some of it, perfectly packed and ready to take with you to the plane.
Two of the most celebrated products: giant read crab and caviar. Each of these two products is available in multiple variations and permutations. There is also plenty of salmon of all sorts.
Here is the address of Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk main fish and seafood market:
Uspekh Market
Sakhalinskaya Ulitsa, 71
Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk 693005
A great find, and one that is not too expensive and easy to bring with back with you on the plane, are the small chunks of dried salmon and other types of fish (sold perfectly vacuum-packed), which make for delicious snacking!).
There are also plenty of street vendors offering frozen fish and seafood next to other sorts of (non-edible) merchandise. Since the air is so cold, no natural refrigeration is needed. People would just get it wrapped in any sort of paper or cardboard to take home!
Day Excursions from Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk
If you get the chance, do not hesitate to arrange some excursion out of the city to experience the unspoiled nature of this island!
To do so, I’d recommend contacting one of the local tour agencies, which will provide a guide an a car. Usually these run tours for groups (if you are travelling alone you may either join a group or you can arrange a private tour).
I booked my tour with Druzya Pokhodniki (http://pohodniki.net). A day excursion in a 4x4 vehicle cost around 10,000 rubles, although the fee per person is lower if you travel as part of a larger group. The manager, Ekaterina, is fluent in English and she may bring her lovely dog “Yasha” to the excursion too!
(btw, they also have a great and rather popular Instagram profile where you can get a feel of the excursions: @druzia_pohodniki)
The initial idea was to do a day trip to Cape Giant, a peculiar rock formation on the coast south-east of Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, yet, due to the weather and road conditions in the area, we finally opted for another destination: Bukhta Tikhaya (“Quiet Bay”) some 50km north of Yuzhno, on the east coast of the island.
And “quiet” it was!
This is a secluded bay that, at the time of our visit, was covered in ice and snow. This rugged, frozen coast could well have been somewhere in Antarctica!
And no one on sight for miles and miles! It is quite amazing to think that this unspoilt nature is literally less than a hundred miles away from densely populated Japan and less than two hours away from hundreds of millions of potential visitors.
To get there you had to drive along the only road along the east coast of the island, with magnificent views of the mountain range that runs all along the centre of the island. Although Sakhalin is quite a narrow (some 40 miles at the narrowest point), it is very mountainous. The only roads run along the coasts and the area in the middle is just a pretty much impassable forested wilderness, covered in a velvety, thick powdery mantle, almost cotton-like.
We also stopped at a long open sandy beach, dunes and sand covered in snow, where amber is often found (and indeed we did find a crumb of amber!)
Along the way, nested on the side of small hill overlooking a small fishing hamlet, we stopped to see another of the vestiges of the Japanese era in Sakhalin: a ceremonial “torii” gate dedicated, back at the time when it was built, to the Emperor.
Its lonely presence, overlooking the ocean from the top of a hill, that you need to climb knee-deep snow, made it quite a sight!
And right after we visited the torii gate, we stopped again. But this time it was in order to get some provisions in the form of freshly caught giant crab.
Some local women from the fishermen’s village engage in fierce market competition here, selling freshly caught amazingly large red crabs to passers-by.
When you have selected the ones you want to take home, they pack them for you in some cardboard boxes. In this rudimentary packaging I managed to get two of them on the plane to Moscow for the long flight back…a tasty souvenir from Sakhalin!
Where to stay in Sakhalin
There are not many places to stay in Sakhalin. These are possibly the two nicest hotels, catering to an international clientele:
Mega Palace Hotel
https://megapalacehotel.ru
Pacific Plaza Hotel
http://www.sakhalinpacificplaza.ru
As the number of good quality hotels in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk is somehow limited, a good alternative is to rent an apartment. With many new residential buildings being built at the moment in Yuzhno-Sakhalin, it is possible to find modern, furnished apartments for a good rate on Booking.com (as I did) or on other major hotel and apartment booking sites.
Where to eat in Sakhalin
It was a short visit but here are a couple of spots that I tried when in town:
Bambu Restaurant (inside Mega Palace Hotel)
Great for Asian food and local seafood specialities (more upmarket)
https://www.megapalacehotel.ru/services/restoran-bamboo/
Assorti
International cuisine, but with a focus on Japanese food and sushi. Rather casual.
http://cafe-assorti.com
Mooma, an apple paradise in Catalonia
A world of apples in the heart of the Costa Brava
If an apple prompted the expulsion of Adam and Eve from Paradise, a young local entrepreneur has created his very own apple paradise in a rural corner of Catalonia’s Baix Empordà region, right in the heart of the popular Costa Brava.
Every summer hundreds of thousands of holidaymakers from all over Europe flock to its great beaches and picturesque medieval towns that dot this flat and green area of Northern Catalonia.
Drive a few miles inland, though, and it is proper farm country.
Just like in other parts of Europe, with agricultural prices hardly keeping up with the general cost of living, local farmers are struggling to stay in business.
This was the case of the family behind the Mooma project. For six generations they have managed a farm called “Mas Saulot”, in the tiny hamlet of Palau-Sator.
Most of the lands within this property were devoted to growing apples and, in fact, the grandfather of the farm’s current owner was one of the founders of the local fruit cooperative. The problem was that selling apples was not a particularly profitable business and the mid to long term prospects did not look encouraging.
Aware of this fact, but convinced of the potential of their 80ha of apple trees, the youngest in the family set to travel around the world looking for inspirational success cases in the field of apple cultivation.
They went to places like England and Normandy, with a long tradition of turning apples into higher added value products such as cider.
This is how the idea for Mooma got started.
Mediterranean cider
“Mooma” is a portmanteau word formed by the “Mo”, the two first letters of “Montgrí”, the grey mountain that dominates the local landscape, and “poma”, the Catalan language word for “apple”
The Montgrí mountain is always in the background
Mooma would become a rather unique case of Mediterranean cider-making. In fact, its owners claim it is the only cider brewery located right on the Mediterranean shores.
The issue for Mooma’s new cider brewery, which took its inspiration from the English cider brewing tradition, was that cider had a limited appeal in the local market. It is a niche product with little significant demand aside from some connoisseurs.
The answer was to diversify and start making apple juice
But people were then complaining it was too sweet, so they added green apple juice to make it more acidic, but then it was too acidic. It has been a trial and error process.
Currently you can buy apple juice made with 4 different apple varieties: Granny Smith, Pink Rose, Fuji and Royal Gala, each with its own set of characteristics (in fact the Mooma farm grows a few more varieties of apple in, but only these four are used to make juice)
And why I am writing about cider and apple-juice making in a site about travel?
Because, in a move that would prove essential for the future of the project, Mooma decided next to expand into the tourism and catering market.
From farm to mouth
While Mooma sits in the midst of one of Europe’s top summer tourist destinations, the idea of turning an apple farm into a tourist destination was a rather unique proposition in this part of the world, but one that has been proven to be a resounding success.
It all started by opening the doors of the farm to small tour groups, of 4 to 20 people, that would take a tour of the orchards (which in nice weather is quite a pleasant outdoor experience for all publics) as well as teh the facilities where cider and other apple by-products are made.
The cost of the visit: €9.50 per person
Tours tended to be in the mornings and then some people started to ask whether it was possible to have something for breakfast, so a patio next to the farm as turned into an impromptu restaurant.
This was an immediate success and, through word to mouth marketing, Mooma started to get increasing numbers of visitors.
It was time to become a gastronomic destination on its own right.
Nowadays, Mooma no longer serves breakfast, but it has become a proper restaurant. From June to September and on weekends during the rest of the year you can lunch or dine at Mooma.
The particularity is that pretty much all dishes are cooked with apples.
For drink you have a choice of different varieties of locally-made apple juice and cider, all made from apples grown at the property.
Staff are always ready to help make the choices, since not many people are familiar with the particularities of each type of apple.
In any case, be it because of the culinary experience, be it because of the appeal of the very explicit apple focus, Mooma has become a great example of local produce and specialization acting as a powerful business driver. It has also become a sort of “must see” place for many of the regular holidaymakers in the area that seek a unique experience aside from the sea and sand of the beaches.
With harvest running August to November, depending on the variety of apple (each of them is spaced out over a number of weeks) most of these visitors are able to see the apple orchards at its peak, with their branches full of apples awaiting to be harvested.
Also of interest is Mooma’s little shop, where you can buy the whole range of products, that, in addition to juice made with different varieties of apple, cide (and ice cider!), it includes also apple vinegar and perry (“pear” cider, elaborated by another, also local, producer) as well as some liquors.
How to get to Sidreria-Restaurant Mooma
Sidredría Mooma
Mas Saulot s/n 17257
Palau-Sator, Catalonia
info@mooma.cat
Urbino, home of Raphael
The little known jewell of the Renaissance
Perched on the north-eastern slopes of the Apennine mountains and roughly 30 miles from the Adriatic shores, the walled city of Urbino is a perfect way to step back 500 years in time, all the way back to Renaissance Italy.
Unlike the larger and way more crowded historical cities west of the Apennines, Urbino has preserved, within its stone walls, the charm of an idealized Italian Renaissance, complete with illustrated princes, warring “condottieri” and sublime artists.
Although nowadays Urbino is essentially a picturesque and placid provincial backwater, in the mid 15th century this one of the centres of power in the Italian peninsula and a hub of artistic activity.
The famous painter Raphael, who, together with Michelangelo and Leonardo, formed what is perhaps the best known trifecta of the history of art, was born in Urbino. In fact, he was known as “Raphael d’Urbino”.
The architect Bramante, another Renaissance super-star, also called Urbino home.
And, although these two artists worked mostly in other cities there is no shortage of Renaissance art in Urbino.
The local dynasty, the Montelfeltro ducal family, and, very particularly, duke Federico III de Montefeltro, who ruled Urbino for some forty years in the mid-15th century, turned this hilltop city into one of the centres of culture in Renaissance Italy.
In addition to being a “condottiero”, or one of the princes and warlords that played power politics during that messy period of Italian history, Federico de Montefeltro fully embodied the spirit of the “Renaissance man”. In addition to its political, military and diplomatic activities, he sponsored numerous artists and aim to attract artists and scientists to his court. Most of what one see today at the Palazzo Ducale, including the impressive art collection at the Galleria Nazionale delle Marche, is his legacy.
What to see and what to do in Urbino: ascent to the Old Town
Just like in the good old times of Duke Federico, visitors still enter Urbino through one of the gates in its walls (although the fortifications have suffered some modifications since the 15th century!).
We entered Urbino through the Porta Valbona, that is located next to the main car (and bus) park. This access point has the advantage of being located next to one of the most curious architectonical elements in Urbino, the “Rampa Elicoidale”.
What is the “rampa elicoidale”? Urbino is a rather steep city, with the ducal palace (“palazzo ducale”) dominating from its highest point. As there were no escalators or lifts in the 15th century, what they did was build a tower with an helicoidal ramp inside (as perfectly described by Italian name) so that duke Federico could come and go from his palace, from the upper town to downtown, while on horseback!
Once in the upper part of town, and on our way to the palazzo ducale, we get to the center of the historical city, around the Piazza della Repubblica.
It must be said, though, that despite its postcard-like aspect, the centre of Urbino experienced some changes since its apogee in the Renaissance period, particularly in the 19th century, when some of the main streets were enlarged and reorganized. This historical area, though, has undoubtedly retained its charm.
A short walk further uphill and we get to the political and religious centre of Urbino. Here is the Palazzo Ducale, the Montefeltro’s center of power, as well as the cathedral (the Duomo of Urbino) and several other churches.
Duomo of Urbino with its neoclassic facade
Although it can trace back its roots to at east the 11 century, the cathedral Urbino got a neoclassic face-lift in the early 19th century, when it was reconstructed following serious damage by an earthquake in the late 18th century.
Brick-like ochre tones are prevalent throughout Urbino’s old town, including the outer part of the ducal palace. As you can see in the pics below, only some neoclassic decor elements, such as some statues and church porticoes and facades, introduce some touches of colder white colour.
The ducal palace (“palazzo ducale”) is without doubt the top thing to see in Urbino.
This was, obviously, the centre of political power for a long period of time and the art-sponsoring activities of Federico de Montefeltro have left their mark. Even five centuries after his death and despite many works ending up in other cities, from Florence to Milan and Paris, as rulers and invaders came and went, the collection at the Galleria Nazionale delle Marche, hosted in the palace itself, is still one of the finest when it comes to Renaissance art.
Here you can find paintings by Raphael, Paolo Ucello, Piero della Francesca, or the great Titian.
Besides the art, the palace also offers an interesting glimpse onto the way of life in the princely courts of Renaissance Italy. Of particular interest is the private cabinet of Federico de Montefeltro, a space for the duke’s work and study full of references to what he saw as his role as a promoter of art and knowledge.
It is also possible to visit other areas of the palace such as what was the 15th century equivalent of a spa area, complete with hot and cold baths, located at the buildings lower levels in imitation of Roman termal baths.
The palace itself looks rather unassuming from the town side, with a rather unpretentious facade and an harmonious internal porticoed courtyard. One side of the palace, though, was built right on top of a cliff, with the walls (and different floors of the building), following the steep relief of the hill.
The ducal palace, perched on a hillside
Walking around the old town of Urbino
But, ducal palace and art collections aside, Urbino is also a place to enjoy outdoors.
Its historical centre, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is pedestrianized, which makes for a pleasant city stroll along the city’s cobbled streets.
By walking down from the palace, past Piazza della Repubblica, and along the, aptly named, “Via Raffaelo”, you reach “Casa Santi”, the house where the great painter Raphael was allegedly born. Today it is a museum.
The house where the painter Raphael was born
The Marche region, where Urbino is located, is also known for its gastronomy and, if you are lucky enough to visit Urbino on market day you may get a chance to buy some local produce from street stalls, such as these truffles…
Where to eat in Urbino
Osteria Tanto Piacere
Via Vittorio Veneto, 29
61029 Urbino
This quite a small place off one of the old town’s main streets. When coming in, only a small part of the place is visible at first glance, because most tables are in a room downstairs.
Here you can taste some local specialities such as salami and other cold cuts, cheeses and the typical flat bread of the Marche (called “Crescia Sfogliata”), which is reminiscent of some flat, thin breads you find in Indian cuisine. It also has a rather impressive collection of local olive oils and wines.
The staff know their stuff too and are helpful in explaining which product is which, where they are from, etc. Great to eat pretty authentic food in a rather casual atmosphere.
Ancona and the Riviera del Conero
A gastronomic feast in an ancient port city
About Ancona
It is one of the oldest cities in Italy, yet, Ancona is usually nowhere near the top of the ranking when it comes to the country’s most visited cities.
Located on the Adriatic shore, just on the opposite side of the Peninsula from Rome, Ancona has been a seaport for thousands of years and it is to this day one of the major shipbuilding centres in Italy and Europe.
The Greeks arrived here by sea (from their colonies in Sicily) and built a first settlement.
They also gave the city its name, since the ancient Greek name for Ancona means “elbow”, a reference to the promontory where the ancient where the old city (“Acropolis”) was built and the Medieval Romanesque cathedral currently stands.
What to see in Ancona: the old town
As you would expect in a city with such an ancient history, the oldest part of Ancona is on a hilltop. It is here that the Greeks built their first acropolis, that would later become Roman. It is from this ancient core that Medieval Ancona sprung and developed.
The oldest part of Ancona, on a hilltop
Old Ancona is crowned by the cathedral, which was built during the 11-12th Centuries, although a much older church had likely stood on this spot for centuries prior to that.
Its entrance is guarded by a pair of stone lions, while its interior keeps the remains of several saints, including that of St. Ciriaco, patron saint of the city. These are actually exhibited in the crypt, which make for quite a spooky sight!
Ancona cathedral is of a a relatively modest sized compared to those found in other Italian cities. But this can be misleading as to the importance of Ancona in the middle ages.
In fact, Ancona was a maritime republic for a few centuries, in competition with Adriatic powerhouse, Venice, and it had a vibrant economy and a rather cosmopolitan population that included significant Greek and Jewish communities.
The rest of the old town spills from the hilltop downwards onto the adjacent plain, a maze of narrow streets and alleys so typical of Mediterranean towns.
In this regard, I wouldn’t say Ancona particularly stands out in terms of monumentality, but it does have some interesting details and a scale that allows you to visit leisurely without getting overwhelmed by the surroundings, as it is often the case in many old Italian cities.
Visiting the port of Ancona: past and present
Ancona is, eminently, a port city and some of its most interesting historical episodes are connected to the sea. From example, it is from Ancona that Roman emperor Trajan embarked for its campaigns in Dacia (present day Romania) and to mark this occasion a triumphal arch was erected. It stil stands to this day, although dwarfed in scale by the more modern constructions around the port area.
It is also due to its role as a port that, in the First World War, Ancona saw its fair share of action, despite being way behind the (land) frontlines.
In 1915 the Austro-Hungarian fleet bombarded the city, causing significant damage. But, the most interesting episode is perhaps that of the daring seaborne raid staged on Ancona’s Lazzaretto (one of the port’s fortifications) by Austrian commandos in April 1918.
The intruders were, however, challenged by two sentries of the Guardia di Finanza (an Italian military corps that is also in charge of customs control and fighting tax fraud). A short fight ensued that ended with the capture of the assailants.
The port remains key to Ancona’s economy. Fincantieri, Italy’s largest shipbuilding company builds some of the most modern models of cruise ship here.
This was actually the purpose of my trip to Ancona, as we came to the city to see the keel laying ceremony for the Regent Seven Seas Splendor, one of the newest and most luxurious cruise ships in the world.
Where to stay in Ancona
SeePort Hotel
Via Rupi di Via XXIX Settembre, 12,
60122 Ancona, Italy
This is a modern boutique-style hotel located on the slope of one of the hills next to Ancona’s port.
Although not right in the center of town, it is within a walkable distance and it provides what is perhaps one of the best views of Ancona’s seafront and harbour.
Ginevra restaurant and rooftop
These are two of the highlights of the SeePort hotel.
Here I had the chance to taste several dishes such as this risotto (below) and a very interesting menu that consisted exclusively of potatoes (of different varieties and cooked in different ways)
The view from the SeePort hotel. Ancona has regular sea links with other ports in the Adriatic and Greece
Where to eat in and around Ancona
In this trip I was able to get a taste of some really amazing cuisine in and around Ancona.
Restaurant La DegOsteria
Via Ciriaco Pizzecolli, 3
60121 Ancona, Italy
Led by four young chefs, La DegOsteria is one of the places to include in a gastronomical tour of Ancona. It is located a bit north the centre, near the port area, but well worth the ride.
(I had somes issues with my camera, so I only could keep pictures of the dessert, which tasted as great as it looks here!)
Things to do and where to eat around Ancona
Ancona is not just a urban destination. The Marche region, of which it is the capital, boasts a long coastline, known as the “Riviera del Conero” (taking its name from Mount Conero, a rocky promonotory in its midst) with countless beaches.
And you don’t need to drive far from the city center to encounter some lovely stretches of countryside, complete with rolling hills and lush with greenery…
It is precisely in one of these rural settings where we had one of the most remarkable gastronomic experiences during our Ancona trip.
Restaurant Saviotti
Frazione Massignano, 3
60129 Ancona, Italy
This is an absolutely delightful spot for an evening meal.
Although officially within Ancona’s territory, this restaurant is located in Massignano, a rural hamlet a few miles from the centre, in the middle of the countryside.
Saviotti is a family-run affair, taking a tastefully decorated town house. But, as the weather was nice, we had our dinner outside, in the terrace, which has great views of the surrounding countryside (and of the moon rising over the Adriatic!).
Glad to report that the food was as glorious as the views!
Restaurant & Hotel Fortino Napoleonico
Via Poggio, 166
60129 Portonovo, Italy
This is another remarkable place to eat near Ancona (it’s located a few miles down the coast)
Located right on the seashore in an old Napoleonic era fort (some guns are still visible all around and the decor aims to evoke the “Empire style” of the time). Its terrace allows you to dine while enjoying the sea breeze, while the blue-green waters of the adjacent bay are always on the line of sight.
The star here is, obviously, seafood!
Teruel: road trip through Spain's empty corner
Múdejar art and Russian airplanes in Spain’s smallest provincial capital
As Spanish politics have become heated up in recent times, the sparsely populated and eminently rural province of Teruel, has become the center of attention.
A small local provincial party called “Teruel Existe!” (which means “Teruel Exists!”) obtained a parliamentary seat. The tight vote that followed to elect the next prime minister ensured that this platform, that focuses on problems such as depopulation and infrastructure deficits in the province, became an unlikely kingmaker.
The fact is that, despite all this sudden spike of awareness, Teruel remains more or less “terra incognita”, not only for the millions of foreign tourists that visit Spain every year, but for many Spaniards as well.
Although it is not far from the balmy Mediterranean coast, its location in an elevated inland plateau and the local orography are responsible for a rather unforgiving climate (the particularly cold winter of 1937, while one of the largest battles of the Spanish Civil War was raging in the era, produced some conditions not unlike those of that soldiers on WW2’s Eastern Front would experience a few years later!)
Add to this the fact that it is removed from the main communication axis and Teruel province, like many other areas of Spain’s interior, has suffered from progressive depopulation: empty villages dotting large swathes of its lands.
But it is precisely this climate environment and availability of space that has brought here a rather unique facility, a storage and industrial airport of which few exist in the World.
And it is precisely the need to conduct some in-field research for this article about Teruel’s airport, that appeared on CNN some time ago that gave me the chance to complete a short, one-day road trip , through Spain’s second least populous province.
On the road (I): Barcelona to Alcañiz
As soon as you leave the coastal region and drive inland into the highlands of Lower Aragon, one thing becomes apparent, the immensity of the landscape and how sparsely populated this area is.
This is mostly dry land with a rather extensive sort of agriculture with olive and almonds trees dominating the landscape as far as the eye can see. We were lucky enough to travel at a time when we could enjoy the view of almond trees in full bloom.
Alcañíz is the capital of the Lower Aragon county and a town with a remarkable historical centre.
We did not have time to visit the fortress, which dominates the surrounding landscape, but did stop for a short walk in town.
Alcañiz was a rather important town in the Middle Ages, when the city sustained a prolonged dispute to assert its city rights in opposition to the military-religious order of Calatrava, that controlled the castle and much of the surrounding region.
Among the most important buildings is the church of Santa María La Mayor, that dates from the 13th C. although it features a rather majestic baroque façade.
Church of Santa María la Mayor, Alcañiz
But, being big city dwellers, perhaps one of the sights that most caught our eye, was that of the many stork nests, like in this bell tower, but also on other buildings all over town!
On the road (II): Alcañíz to Teruel
This was the longest part of the road trip and it did not disappoint. Something akin to traveling along the legendary roads of the American West, with long stretches of road without seeing a single soul.
Only a tiny village every now and then punctuated the emptiness of the landscape. It is amazing to thing there is such a landscape less than two hours from the buzz of the coast!
There were signs, though, that it was not always like this. We could see quite a few derelict farmhouses and even entire hamlets where clearly no one had been living for quite some time. Also some out of service railways stations that use to serve a line that is obviously long gone.
We got to experience as well how the weather can vary tremendously, from the balmy temperatures on the sunny side of the valleys to frigid temperatures as soon as we started to drive uphill. We even encountered some snow!
Downtown Teruel
If the province of Teruel is next to bottom in Spain’s population ranking, its capital claims the honour of being the smallest of all provincial capitals, with a population barely above 35,000.
In the Middle Ages, during the andalusí period, an independent islamic kingdom sprung in this area, centered on nearby Albarracín (a town that still boasts a rather impressive defensive wall and historical center, but which we did not have time to visit in this rather short day trip).
The town of Teruel itself changed hands several times in the medieval period, remaining finally in Aragonese hands.
The long period under Islamic rule has left its mark, though, in the characteristic “múdejar” style (that is common throughout Aragon, in fact the ensemble of Múdejar Art in Aragon has UNESCO World Heritage Site status). It is easily recognizable because of its rich ornamental style and earthy tones (often using bricks for construction).
One of the best example of Múdejar architecture in Teruel, the 14th C. El Salvador tower
In fact, Teruel boasts one of the few cathedrals anywhere in the world built entirely in Múdejar style.
The city boasts also its very own version of the “Romeo and Juliet” story, known as “The Lovers of Teruel”, that are buried side by side in a magnificent marble mausoleum (that despite the appearance were sculpted in the 20th C., although the story of the two lovers is, indeed, much older).
As you might imagine, the center is really small, so pretty much all sights are clustered around the central square known as “El Torito” (not the official name!), a market square that takes its name of a little sculpture of a bull that lies on top of a column.
On the gastronomic side, Teruel Ham is the local highlight.
Again the dry, cold climate is responsible for the curation of the meat. Teruel Ham has its own protected designation of origin, although, generally speaking, is does not enjoy as much recognition as Ibérico hams from South-west Spain (the price differential shows as well).
We arrived when it was already quite late in the afternoon and finding an open restaurant that would admit us proved to be a challenge…So, we ended up at some random bar, nothing to write home about, so, unfortunately, no restaurant recommendation this time!
Teruel Airport
And, finally, the object of our visit!
We made it just before sunset and it was a thrill. It is quite a thing to be driving along a broad, open, empty plateau, lined by snowy peaks on both sides, to stumble upon hundreds of aircraft tails of all sorts!
The airport is not open to visitors, but you can drive all along its perimeter, where row upon row of airliners sit idle. Some of these aircraft are there temporarily until they are reassigned to a new operator or owner, some others may be dismantled or cannibalized for parts an spares at the end of their operational lives.
At the time of our visit, the airport was mostly full with aircraft from two Russian airlines, Transaero, that has collapsed just a couple of months earlier and had sent virtually all its fleet to storage here, and UTair, that had underwent a serious restructuring and downsizing in the months prior and had sent many of the redundant aircraft for storage.
Besides being a storage airport, it is also the base of a small aeronautical industrial cluster, with several companies, from MRO operators to drone research firms having set up shop in Teruel since the airport’s inauguration.
Again, to learn more about it, you can always check out my CNN piece…
24 hours in Dushanbe, Tajikistan - What to see and what to do
Exploring the capital of the smallest of the Central Asian republics
Tajikistan is not among the World’s top tourist destinations. Even in a context of increasing interest for the countries of Central Asia, this mountainous country, roughly the size of Greece (both in area and population), is often overlooked.
This was a short business trip that, nevertheless, left me with nearly 24h to do a bit of sightseeing in and around the capital city, Dushanbe.
First of all, some practical considerations: you would need to request (and pay for) a visa at least a few days in advance. For most countries (including all EU members and the US) the whole process can be done quite easily through this website. It costs US$50.
Once you have received the email confirming your visa application has been approved (in my case it took 5 days to receive it after applying), it is good to bring a printed copy with you, since you will have to enter the reference number in yet another form that needs to be complimented at customs, upon arrival (and the border guards may request to see the visa approval confirmation)
Arriving into Dushanbe - First impressions
Once you arrive at Dushanbe International Airport, be prepared for some rather chaotic scenes at the queue or customs. In fact, I should say “the absence of queue”, because there is absolutely no semblance of order, and is everyone for himself racing to be the first to go through customs. Luckily the airport is rather small and, even in such circumstance, it doesn’t take long to go through.
Next thing you should be prepared is the hassle to get a taxi. International or Russian ride hailing apps are not available here. When you set your feet on the arrivals hall you are immediately approach by a several taxi drivers as well as by some fixers that distribute work among the drivers. I was later advised by locals to call a couple of serious taxi companies (I was advised to call 3333 next time).
In this occasion I just took a random cab and paid 1,000 Russian rubles (around US$12) to take me to the hotel. This was possibly a bit above the normal price, but it was 4am in the morning, I did not have local money and neither did I have smaller change (it is possibly a good idea to carry hard currency in small denomination notes), in any case, I was too tired to start bargaining around for just a small sum.
The airport is right next to the city center, in fact it is pretty much attached to it, so you should not be paying much more than this in any case.
Things to see in Dushanbe
1. Presidential posters
Tajikistan is a presidential republic and, if you are not acquainted with its president, Emomali Rahmon, who has been in the post since 1992, you soon will right after landing in Dushanbe, since his image is literally on every other wall!
2. The (until recently) largest flagpole in the world
That’s right: until it was surpassed by a Saudi flag in Jeddah, Dushanbe had the honour of having the tallest self-standing flag pole in the world.
The flag, is visible from many points of the capital and is located in the middle of a very central and modernly-designed park area (more on this soon).
Unfortunately I could only visit this area at dusk, and therefore the pictures I could take are not of the best quality, but you get an idea.
3. Mosque of Tajikistan
Tajikistan is a majority-muslim country and this is its largest mosque. It construction is quite recent and, actually, I am not sure it is completed yet, since you could see some building structures and workers around when passing by with the car.
It is located in the outskirts of the city, next to the city’s university.
4. Monuments to the Samanid Empire (plus a bit of history)
Once upon a time, around the 9-10th C. AD, Tajikistan was at the centre of a large empire, that controlled a big chunk of Central Asia, including the present-day country of Tajikistan, plus large swathes of Uzbekistan, Iran, Kirgyzstan, Kazakhstan and Afghanistan.
The founder and most important ruler of the Samanid dinasty, as this historical period is known, was Ismail Samani. This is the other guy, after the president, that you get to know about when you visit Tajikistan. He has a rather impressive statue in central Dushanbe, plus the local currency (the Somoni) is named after him and his crown is emblazoned in the national flag.
Also, the name of the country, in the local Tajik language means “Land of the crowned”, another reference to this period.
Statue of Samani (above) and right next to it (below), a monumental map that depicts the maximum extent of his empire.
Tajik language is closely related to Persian (in contrast, other Central Asian countries have mostly Turkic languages) and this extends to cultural links as well. Poet Rudaki, who was born and lived in present day Tajikistan, is considered one of the great authors of modern Persian language. One of the most centrally-located parks in Dushanbe and this monument (below) are dedicated to him.
5. Exploring Central Dushanbe
Although I had less time that I would have liked to to roam the streets of Dushanbe, my impression is that of quite an orderly city, at least in the center, with broad avenues shaded by trees. I guess this is in part a vestige of Soviet urban planning (between 1929 and 1961 Dushanbe was known as Stalinabad). There seems to have been quite a lot of new construction going on in recent years as well, with large modern-looking granitic buildings lining some of the city’s mai avenues, particularly on the way to the airport.
Although you wouldn’t be able to tell from its central areas, Tajikistan is a rather poor country, though, and this is most evident in the suburbs, that are mostly made of one-storey very simple constructions.
There is quite a lot of flashy street decor - perhaps not everyone’s cup of tea - all around the Rudaki Park area. Next are some pictures (again image quality is not the best, since I took them with my phone!).
The building below is the National Library of Tajikistan, that is located next to Park Rudaki and not far from the famous flagpole.
Below is the entrance to Park Rudaki, a perfectly well kept stretch of the city.
6. Excursion to Hisor Fortress
I am grateful that my hosts in this business trip volunteered to show me a bit of the country outside Dushanbe.
Some 30km West of Dushanbe is the town of Hisor, where we were able to visit the remains of a historical fortress and have a proper Tajik meal
But the first sight we came across when approaching the city of Hissor is this melon-shaped building. This choice of design is, I am being told, an homage to local produce, as melon is one of the most valued local products (it is common to see roadside stalls selling fresh melons and grapes). This building is a sort of community center and it is used to host all sort of events.
The landscape of this part of Tajikistan (the Eastern half of the country, in contrast, is completely mountanious) is that of a series of valleys, irrigated by multiple running streams, and surrounded by very dry mountains and steppe, as you can see in the picture below.
Places to eat near Dushanbe
Tabakai Karayev (near the village of Ittifok)
This is quite an interesting place. Located right on top of a river bank and just a few kilometres west of the town of Hissor, it is an open-air restaurant specializing in Tajik specialities (“tabaka” is in fact one of the dishes we will soon get acquainted with!).
The restaurant is structured around a running stream. In fact, when coming into the restaurant, people wash their hands with running water (and soap) from a tap in the open, something that makes sense if you consider that later some of the dishes require eating with your hands to some degree.
People eat inside these cabins that are suspended on top of the water, seating casually around the central table.
Local cuisine includes lots of meat (although there are also some vegetarian dishes). And some interesting condiments, for example, the white sauce, called “chaka” (чака) is in fact a sort of sour creamy cheese. The red one is called “kemal” (кемаль) and has a tomato base. They are applied to both salad and meat.
Below is a Tajik specilaity, chicken tabaka (табака из курицы), that is served usually with a fresh vegetables salad (in the background) called “shakarob” (шакароб). All of this together with the “lepeshka” flat, round, bread (лепешка) so typical of Central Asia (well, not sure all varieties of bread are technically called lepeshka, but they are of this style)
And we had also some lamb cooked in a tandoor (тандури) oven. Very tasty.
Hisor Fortress
Although highly restored, Hisor fortress is a very ancient structure located on one of the branches of the famous Silk Road. In the middle ages it was for some time an independent khanate and later also a dependency of the Emirate of Bukhara. The current gates are a restoration of the 16th C. ones.
There is little inside, aside from a few souvenir shops, but it is possible to get to the top of the walls and admire the landscape of the surrounding valley and mountains.
Eating in Dushanbe
Restaurant “Lola” («Лола»)
It’s a place with a large outdoor terrace serving “shashlik” (barbecued meat on skews), alongside the Tajik sauces we mentioned earlier and excellent french fries.
We also had a chance to try the local cola drink, that apparently is made under license from an American firm “RC Cola”, as well as local organic vodka, which turned out to be really smooth. I was told that it is the high quality mountain water available locally that makes all the difference!
Where to stay in Dushanbe
My hotel in Dushanbe was the Twins Hotel.
This is a quite central four-star independent boutique hotel located in a sort of small palace. You enter it through a courtyard (below) and the rooms are then immediately in the main corpus of the hotel. No conventional reception or front desk, you just do your check in and check out procedures at the courtyard.
Also, there is no formal eating room (or at least it was not open when I visited), all breakfasts are delivered directly to the room (the previous evening you are handed out a paper with the menu and you make your choices)
The facilities inside where modern and clean, the internet was working well and staff were helpful and spoke both English and Russian.
Always leave something for next time
And it was soon time to get on the road (or on the plane) again. Here is an image of the rather small, but functional, airport at Dushanbe.
I have included also a couple of pictures taken from the plane, since I am told that some of the most interesting sights in Tajikistan are actually in the mountains, something for next time!
A cruise on Viking Orion - Nordic chic on the high seas
How is it like to sail on the maiden voyage of a Scandinavian luxury cruise ship
The Viking Orion, anchored off Portofino, Italy
Viking Orion’s naming cruise
A brand-new, sate-of-the-art luxury cruise ship…Italy…a beautiful (and extravagant) naming ceremony…a bunch of NASA astronauts, the chance to meet one of the most interesting personalities in the cruise business…this is a post I had long wanted to write.
Yes, I know that Viking Orion’s maiden voyage is not exactly breaking news - it took place in 2018 and another ship, the Viking Jupiter, has been delivered since then - however, even today, after more than one year has passed, it is hard to forget that very first voyage on the Viking Orion cruise ship.
This is not just because of the amazing ship naming ceremony that took place at the port of Livorno, Italy, but also because this cruise gave an opportunity to try out, first-hand, Viking’s Nordic-inspired luxury cruise experience and I think it’s fair to say that pretty much all my observations about the ship and the services it offers are still perfectly valid today.
Viking’s ships, all identical and built by Italian shipbuilder Fincantieri, are a truly beautiful sight, with their pointy bow and elegant lines
The Ship
Viking Orion’s modern lines next to Livorno’s old port fortress
Viking Orion is the fifth of Viking’s seagoing cruise ships.
It was followed in 2019 by the “Viking Jupiter” and there are six more ships on order, plus options for an additional four. So, if all goes according to plan, Viking’s ocean-going fleet will number 16 by 2027.
This is quite a commitment by Viking Cruises, that only relatively recently (2015) entered the market for sea-going cruises. The Norwegian-owned, Swiss-headquartered, operator has traditionally been better known for the river cruises that are at the roots of the company. Viking Cruises started up in the 1990s, after founder Torstein Hagen purchased some second hand river boats in Russia to ply that country’s internal waterways. It has since become the largest operator in the world in this market segment.
Viking’s sea-going ships are all identical in their dimensions and design. Some of the features onboard, though, such as the Explorer’s Dome on Viking Orion (more on this later), may differ from ship to ship.
This Viking Orion maiden voyage was by invitation only and not open to the general public.
Passengers were a rather unusual mix, starting by Viking’s charismatic owner, Torstein Hagen, his daughter, Karine Hagen, who is also involved in the management of the firm, and most of the firm’s top brass. Guests, flown in for the occasion, included an impressive number of astronauts (retired and active) as well as other personalities connected to space exploration. They all joined in Viking Orion’s celebration of space exploration, a recurrent theme through this very special cruise (more on this later!)
The itinerary: Civitavecchia to Barcelona by way of Livorno, where the naming ceremony took place, Portofino (offshore stop), Genoa and Montecarlo.
Before that, the ship had earlier sailed from Fincantieri’s shipyard in Ancona (all of Viking’s ships have been built by the Italian shipbuilder) with only crew onboard.
Because of agenda constraints I had to get off the ship at Genoa (btw, see my chronicle about this fascinating Italian port city), but in the two days and nights I was onboard, and despite this not being your ordinary cruise, I could get a glimpse of how is it like to sail on a Viking cruise.
The 47,842-ton, 14-deck Viking Orion can carry up to 930 passengers, a rather suitable size for the sort of high end experience that it aims to provide. It has most of the facilities you can find on larger ships, such as the elegant spacious central hall (above), the spa and deck pools (below) yet, it is able to maintain a feeling of exclusivity throughout.
One of the distinctive features of the Viking Orion (and, although I have not seen it by myself, I guess is the case of all its other ships too) is its Scandinavian-style decor, that pervades every corner of the ship. It is a rather subtle, understated type of luxury that draws its inspiration from nature and is instrumental in creating the sort of harmonious, cozy interiors that you find in most areas of the ship.
Some of the common areas, such as this reading room (below) wouldn’t be out of place in a Norwegian mountain lodge, it is only when you turn your head and see the blue expanse of the sea through the large panoramic windows, that you come round to the fact that you are actually onboard a ship!
Viking Orion features 2 specialty restaurants (Chef’s table ad Manfredi’s), plus the every-day “originally” named “The Restaurant", a pool side grill buffet.
The several bars and cafés that dot the ship are also an option for a light meal and, of these, I would highlight “Mamsen’s”, right next to the Explorer’s Lounge, on one of the ship’s upper decks. It offers great views in a relaxed, cozy environment. Its offerings, based on Norwegian specialities and inspired by the culinary tastes of Mr. Hagen’s mother, make it quite unique to the Viking experience.
As this was a special cruise, with quite a few celebratory events where a rather generous amount of food and drink was served, the eating regime was far from normal. I don’t think a culinary critique would be very representative of the regular Viking experience.
If what we tasted on the aforementioned occasions, the skills of Viking Orion’s chefs and kitchen staff are on a par with the rest of the experience.
As they say, an image may be worth a thousand words…
The Cabin
All cabins onboard Viking Orion are verandas with sea views.
There are three types of cabins available for booking, by order of luxury (from less to more): Veranda Stateroom, Veranda Deluxe Stateroom and Penthouse Veranda Stateroom.
During the two days I was onboard I was lodged in a Veranda Stateroom and the whole experience was very positive and not just because I was the very first one ever to sleep on that cabin (so it was as new and shiny as it gets!).
The space is more than enough, particularly if you consider that you are likely to spend most of the day outside enjoying either the excursions or the ship’s multiple attractions.
A nice detail that I particularly appreciated is that the room is equipped with a pair of binoculars (it was great entertainment to spend some time in the balcony doing a bit of ship-spotting and tracing the contour of the Italian coastline from the distance!) as well as a universal adaptor to recharge electrical devices.
Thumbs up also to the bathroom: contemporary design following the same type of minimalist, elegant lines that are a signature of the house…and guess what? the floor is heated!
The amenity kit, that features personal care products from several Nordic brands, is also very nice.
Scandinavian warmth
If you have made it this far down the text, you have possibly noticed, by now, a common theme: Scandinavian-ness.
And for those of us that are big fans of that region, this is great news!
True to Viking Cruises’ name and roots, Scandinavia’s celebrated approach to design is a constant, wherever you are in the ship: the simple, elegant lines, the palette of soft colours, the air of understated sophistication…
It is not just that subtle equilibrium between minimalism and warmth that only the Nordics seem capable of achieving, Viking Cruises goes one step further in claiming its Norwegian (and Nordic) heritage and succeeds in turning it into a major corporate identity symbol.
For a starter, there is a whole section of the ship dedicated to Norwegian culture and history, this includes some interesting exhibits, such as these traditional dresses (below) that we would have a chance to see again during the naming ceremony!
There is also a prominent place for Nordic art, in its different expressions, all throughout the ship.
Runestones, an ancient form of Norse art that consists in decorating stones with memorial purposes. They are found all over Scandinavia and in some of the territories that were once upon a time visited by the Vikings. The Viking Orion partakes of this tradition too and runestones hang from the ships’ walls (I guess they are copies, not the real thing, though!)
These stone runes offer quite a contrast with the high tech that is prevalent throughout the ship
Runes are an ancient form of Norse art
Another piece of decor with Nordic undertones: a reproduction of the famous Bayeux tapestry (that narrates the Norman conquest of England in the 11th century) adorns several levels of the ships’ main staircase.
Space Connection
If Nordic identity is a company-wide feature, space exploration is Viking Orion’s theme.
Viking Cruises been able to use the ship’s name and its astronomical resonances as an excuse to engage in an amazing exercise of story-telling.
Space exploration has inspired what is perhaps, the ship’s most unique signature feature: the Explorer’s Dome and Space exhibit, a planetarium and space-themed 3D cinema that lets passengers explore the universe and deepen their astronomical knowledge.
Not for nothing the ship’s godmother is retired NASA astronaut Anna Fisher, who has the honour of having been the first mother to travel to space. Several other astronauts were also onboard (possibly, the largest gathering ever of astronauts in any one place outside NASA) as were several prominent astro-physicists and senior figures connected to NASA and space exploration.
The ship’s naming ceremony in Livorno, was another opportunity to link the ancient Viking’s legendary exploration skills (they were the first European to get to America after all!) with that of Italian astronomer Galileo Galilei, who lived in the nearby (but inland!) city of Pisa.
The Experience
As a passenger you receive everyday a detailed booklet with detailed information about the next port of call and the activities available to you. So far so good, but here is where things start to get interesting…
When it comes to experiencing a destination, Viking deploys a rather immersive approach.
Passengers are able to attend a full programme of talks and lectures covering specific historical and cultural aspects of the places they are going to visit during the cruise. In fact, there is an historian-in-residence on every ship (Viking Orion being no exception) tasked with designing and delivering these prep talks. At the company level there is also a chief historian (would this be a CHO?) tasked with developing and coordinating all these learning programmes for Viking ships around the world, which gives you an idea of how seriously Viking takes this specific part of the cruise experience.
But this is not all…in the case of Viking Orion, an astronomer-in-residence is also at hand with pretty much the same functions!
During my Viking Orion cruise I attended an interesting lecture on Norse history given by an expert in the subject
These launches have a dual purpose, as safety boats and, in normal conditions, to reach some of the smaller ports along the way. Here at Portofino, on the Ligurian coast. We dropped anchor off this picturesque little town and then a shuttle system was organized the whole morning using the ship’s launches.
For those that are into food, Viking offers also a rather immersive experience.
At selected destinations you can join the ship’s chef on an expedition to the local markets to source fresh ingredients. When back at the ship these will be the raw material for a hands-on cooking session where passengers learn about different culinary traditions.
The resulting meal is then enjoyed, together with the rest of the group, at the intimate eating venue next to the kitchen (below).
The Party
Although this is not really part of the regular “Viking experience” (or of that of any other cruise operator for that matter), I thought it was necessary to include some words about the impressive naming ceremony of the Viking Orion in Livorno.
The images below can give you a feel of how it was like.
The show, that had British explorer Ranulph Fiennes as master of ceremonies, started with a magnificent music and light show projected on the tower and walls of Livorno’s fortress. Guests could as well enjoy the voice of renowned Norwegian opera singer Sissel Kyrkjebø, that performed live at the event.
The surprise came in the form of a jetpack-flying man that delivered the ax with which retired astronaut Anna Fisher cut the inaugural ribbon.
She was next to give Torstein and Karine Hagen some really cool-looking NASA jackets just before the event closed with a massive firework display.
24 Hours in Kansas City - What to see and what to do?
Visiting some amazing museums in the heart of the Midwest
The Midwest is often snubbed by those living on both coasts of North America, as “flyover country”.
And I must confess that, until recently I was not at all inmune to this stereotype. So, when I was invited to attend a work gig in Kansas, I did not really know what to expect.
Yet, a day in Kansas City (that, by the way, is not located in the state of Kansas, but just across the state line in Missouri!) sufficed to dispel any such notions as totally inaccurate.
In fact, as soon as I started to put together my own research and the tips I got from my local contacts it started to become obvious that the full day I had allocated for sightseeing may not be enough...by quite some way.
My impression of Kansas City is that it is a city of museums...and some rather unique ones at that. Whether you are into military history, aviation history, American history you have come to the right place.
In my case, I had only a limited amount of time in the city, so I had to prioritise.
When looking at the main attractions in Kansas City, the National WW1 Museum and Memorial was a must (since I had included it in this list of great military museums that I compiled for CNN ) and, given my interest in commercial aviation, so were the TWA Museum and the National Airline History Museum.
At the very last minute, I also decided to visit the Arabia Steamboat Museum, that did not disappoint.
This meant there was no time left for some other items in my to-do list, such as the Nelson-Atkins art museum or the money museum at the Federal Reserve of Kansas City.
But, well…they say you should always leave something for the next visit!
So here is my list of what to do in Kansas City
Downtown
National WW1 Museum and Memorial
City Market and Steamboat Arabia
TWA Museum
Downtown Kansas City at dusk, seen from the National WW1 Museum and Memorial
Downtown Kansas City
Like so many other cities in America, Kansas City has glass and steel downtown. Nothing special here.
But, what other cities possibly lack is the sort of privileged vantage point offered by another of Kansas City’s landmarks, the National WW1 Museum and Memorial (more on this later) and its tower (whose height adds to the museum’s already elevated position, on top of a hill).
Once you are up there, looking at the lights of the city, any sense of coldness and impersonality in contemporary American architecture fades way. There is always something mesmerizing about this type of skyline.
If looking at downtown Kansas City from the WW1 museum, one particular building dominates the scene. It is not a high rise tower, but the massive classical-style building of Union Station, built in 1914, a vestige of the time, well before the idea of “flyover country” came into being, when Kansas City played an important role in the transcontinental rail network.
Kansas City nightlife
Above are a couple of interesting “steampunk”-style pieces of street decor near Union Station
The National WW1 Museum and Memorial
This is, simply put, the museum of reference about WW1 in America.
The museum was set up in 1926 by popular subscription, the tower and adjacent pavilions are from that time. It was, however, vastly renovated a decade ago.
The granitic, solid look of the museum grounds, and its majestic location, on a hill overlooking downtown Kansas City and surrounded by vast green open spaces, give it a, quite fitting, solemn aspect.
The museum is structured around a tower, whose top floor, still open to visitors today, was, for many decades, the highest point in hundreds of miles around.
Some of the key allied commanders in WW1 met all together for the first time in Kansas City after the war
An interesting feature of this museum is that, unlike other war museums, it depicts the conflict in its entirety, in a purely chronological manner, instead of focusing only on the American point of view.
Also, pretty much all items in the museum are original and have come from the many different fronts of WW1, often via donations from individual collectors.
The exhibits go from the macro, societal level aspects of the war, all the way down to the many gripping personal stories, as well as some curious facts about the war.
I found personally interesting the story of a guy that, in the course of the conflict, fought successively, and in the same area of the front for, both, the Germans and, after successfully deserting and immigrating to America, for the US. Here displayed are the two different uniforms he wore.
The museum also regularly organizes temporary exhibits covering specific aspects of the conflict. When I visited there was an interesting exhibit about handicrafts produced by people that were involved in the conflict.
But, perhaps one of the most remarkable items, at least for me, is the painting Pantheon de Guerre.
This is a rather unique piece of art, since it is said to have been the largest painting ever completed. When it was whole (only part of it is preserved), it covered the same area as a football field.
Pantheon de Guerre, that was completed shortly after the war, depicts over 6,000 characters, real and allegorical, representing the victorious nations and its leaders. Quite conveniently, it is possible to check who is who in the painting with the assistance of some electronic displays located throughout the hall.
As a bonus, I visited during the week of “Taps at the Tower”. A memorial taps ceremony, with a bugler and flags is performed at sunset every day during a whole week (weather permitting!). At the end of the ceremony, it is possible to get up the tower for a nocturnal view of Kansas City’s skyline.
City Market
The sloping area between downtown and the Missouri river is home to the City Market, an open square (with parking space at its center).
This space is lined by fresh food shops and restaurants offering different cuisines from around the world.
On certain days there is an outdoor market too, hence the name of the place!
At first glance, it looks like City Market and the adjacent streets are a sort of small pedestrianised (a somehow “hipsterish”) enclave in Kansas City
The Steamboat Arabia Museum
It is also here that you will find one of Kansas City’s most interesting and unsuspected finds (in this case, quite literally!): the Steamboat Arabia.
The Arabia was a paddle steamboat was one of many that plied America’s waterways in the pre-Civil War era. Navigation in the American frontier was far from safe and sinkings were a relatively frequent occurrence.
This is what happened to the Arabia, on one night of 1856, when it hit a drifting log (when floating in the downstream current logs can be dangerous to ships, like a torpedo of sorts!) and sunk.
In fact, it did not sink immediately, but it settled slowly in a mudflat a few miles upstream from Kansas City. All passengers could be safely evacuated, but not its cargo.
And this is what makes the Arabia so interesting.
The log that sunk the Arabia
Our passionate guide, a former Marines officer and distant relative of president Van Buren!
The anaerobic environment in which it sunk helped preserve in (almost) mint state the 200 tons of goods that it carried onboard. Mainly merchandise to re-supply stores serving newly created settlements upstream in the frontier. In short, it was the 1850s equivalent of a “floating Wal-Mart”, a time capsule of what life was like at that time for ordinary Americans.
The location of the wreck was lost shortly after it went down, but in the 1980s a team of entrepreneurial enthusiasts set to locate it. And this they did, in 1988.
As soon as the hull was found, efforts started to recover it and salvage its contents.
The museum is the result of this private enterprise. It is not large, but very well organized and the exhibits are quite impressive, as most of the items are in mint condition.
There is an impressive array of tableware, tools, clothes, footwear, weapons and even some relatively well preserved canned sardines (although still whole, I confirmed that no one actually dared to taste them)
I would strongly recommend joining one of the guided tours that run throughout the day and are included in the entrance fee.
At the end of the tour, visitors are shown a video documentary and...surprise!...at the end of it, a member of the Hawley family (the one that found the wreck and manages the museum) shows up and addresses the group, ready to answer any additional questions about the Arabia.
After 30 years of work, the restoration of the Arabia Steamboat’s contents is not yet finished, there are still tons of material in storage waiting to be cleaned. Visitors to the museum can get an idea also about how the items are cleaned and prepared for exhibition at a special lab (picture below).
And this is not all, the Hawley family is already preparing to dig a second wreck, this one of 1841, while it keeps looking for more. Ultimately their idea is to add sections to the museum, with one wreck from each decade of the first half of the 19th Century.
Note: the Steamboat Arabia museum may be moving to a new location in the coming years, something that has not been decided yet. This is a real possibility as new space will need to be found if salvage of additional wrecks goes ahead.
TWA Museum
This is a really small museum, but one that will surely delight aviation history enthusiasts.
Although no longer in existence, the TWA brand has retained much of its allure and it remains, to this day, one of the most iconic airlines in commercial aviation history.
The museum, that is located in a building adjacent to Charles B. Wheeler Downtown Airport (just across the river from downtown Kansas City) is absolutely packed with all sorts of memorabilia connected to the history of the airline.
You can also admire a beautifully preserved Lockheed Electra aircraft, which, I later learned, had arrived to the museum the day prior to my visit!
Also, right by Kansas City Downtown Airport, is the National Airline History Museum. Unfortunately, it was closed on the day I was in town, but from what you can find on its website it looks like an interesting option to combine with the TWA museum.
Other interesting museums in Kansas City
Here are some other museums, that, had I had the time, would have been next in my schedule. I leave the details here, in part as a to-do note for my next visit!
Nelson-Atkins Art Museum
Apparently one of the best art museums in the Midwest (and in America, for that matter!)
https://nelson-atkins.org/visitor-information/
Money Museum
Located within the building of the Federal Reserve of Kansas City and just across the street from the National WW1 Museum and Memorial grounds. To judge from the reviews, this seems to be also quite an interesting museum.
Shopping
While on the museum front Kansas City really overshoot my expectations, the shopping experience was a bit underwhelming, at least when it comes to the city centre (didn’t explore big box retailers and malls in the suburbia).
To be fair, I visited just one downtown mall, Crown Center, located next to the WW1 museum and Union Station. It is part of a large office complex of the same name (that happens to be the HQ of famous Hallmark greeting card company!), but I found the offerings, both shopping and eating, to be nothing to write home about. It also closed at 7pm, which is quite early (even for European standards!).
Same story for nearby Union Station. As I got there on my (unfulfilled) quest to find some spot to eat before the taps ceremony at the museum. The station itself is quite beautiful and monumental, a vestige of the time when Kansas City was a major rail hub, however it was totally deserted and only one, not too appealing, restaurant was open.
To be fair, preparations were going on for some sort of festival, which may explain why activity was below normal, but even taking this into account it was far from what I was expecting from such as central spot.
Sergiyev Posad, the spiritual heart of Russia
Russia’s most important monastery throughout the centuries, just a short ride away from Moscow
Not far from Moscow, some 70km to the North, lies the small town of Sergiyev Posad (Сергиев Посад), home to Russia’s most important monastery: the Trinitry Lavra of St. Sergius, that has UNESCO World Heritage Status.
Sergiyev Posad is an interesting day trip from Central Moscow, and a recommended outing for those travellers that have already ticked Moscow’s main highlights of the to-do list and looking to see a bit more of Russia without leaving the comforts of the capital.
How to get to Sergiyev Posad
The best way to reach Sergiev Posad from Moscow is possibly by train. The town is on the Moscow-Yaroslavl trunk line, so train service is frequent (literally every 10-15min during daytime).
From Moscow Yaroslavl station (Ярославский Вокзал) trains take between 1h (if taking a fast train) or 1h 30min a slower (and cheaper) commuter train.
Prices can vary a lot between the normal suburban trains (fare can be 300 rubles, or around €5) or the faster trains that you can book in advance (with some tickets going for up to more than 2,000 rubles, or some €30)
Visiting Sergiyev Posad - What to see
Sergiyev Posad is named after Saint Sergius of Radonezh, one of the most venerated saints of the Russian Orthodox Church, who is said to have founded the first religious establishment at this spot in 1337.
In fact, when St.Sergius first moved into this area, in the 14th Century, he was intending to live an ascetic life, alone in the middle of the forest.
Yet, with time, other monks arrived to join him and the community kept growing to the point that a proper monastery was built.
The other component of the town’s name “Posad”, refers to the emergence of this community, since this was the name typically given to settlements next to fortresses or monasteries.
The buildings visitors see today, though, are quite old, but don’t date back to that foundational era.
In fact, the oldest of the structures within the Lavra (like most Russian monasteries, the Trinitry Lavra is a complex of stand-alone buildings within a territory enclosed by walls) is the Trinity Cathedral, that dates from 1422 (the same year St.Sergius was declared a saint).
This cathedral appears much smaller than the neighbouring 16th Century Assumption Cathedral, but actually, it has quite a remarkable religious significance, since it is in the Trinity Cathedral that St. Sergius relics are kept (they were returned to the Lavra in 1946, after years in hiding).
The largest building and the one that takes a central spot within the complex is the Assumption Cathedral, built in the 16th Century in times of the tsar Ivan the Terrible (1547-1584). Here are the remains of Boris Godunov, the late 16th and early 17th Century Russian ruler that inspired the opera of the same name.
Proof of the important role that the monastery at Sergiyev Posad has played in Russian history is the fact that, in successive centuries, some of the most remarkable tsars left an imprint on it.
Peter the Great took refuge here in the early, convulsed, years of his reign and added a palace.
Her daughter, Empress Elizabeth used to do an annual pilgrimage to Sergiyev Posad, conferred it the title of “Lavra” and added a 88m. bell tower that is, by far, the tallest structure in the whole area.
For most of its history, Sergiyev Posad was, likely, Russia’s richest monastery.
Thoughout the centuries, some of the most celebrated artists and architects of the time came over to take part in the works, starting with medieval master painters such as Andrei Rublev, that, together with fellow painter Daniil Chyorny decorated the first cathedral at Sergiyev Posad, or 17th Century painter Simon Ushakov, some of whose masterpieces decorate the Cathedral of the Assumption.
The Trinitry Lavra at Sergiyev Posad continues to to be an important religious center to this date (this role was only interrupted between 1920 and 1945, between the Revolution and the end fo WW2), with a community of some 300 monks living here.
Walking around, you can see how tourists mix with those that have come to pray and expressions of religious devotion are commonplace.
People collecting holy water from a well. The well was discovered in 1644 and has its own chapel attached.
Where to eat in Sergiyev Posad
If you are going on a day trip to Sergiyev Posad, you want to have the lunch options covered after an intense morning visiting the monastery.
A good option is Russkiy Dvorik, located on the road just outside the monastery’s walls.
The look from outside (and the name) is a bit touristy, yes, although the crowd is mainly “local” (from Moscow) Russian tourists. The place is quite cozy inside and the food (mostly Russian specialities, pretty good too). I particularly recommend tasting the local Medovukha, a traditional Russian beer-like drink made with honey.
Russky Dvorik
Prospekt Krasnoy Armii, 134/2
Sergiev Posad
Millenary olives, cave art and Iron Age hill forts in Southern Catalonia
A truly amazing concentration of ancient treasures
There is a corner of Catalonia that feels far, far away from the well known resort towns of the Costa Daurada.
And, yet, the crowds that every summer converge in places such as Salou or Cambrils or those queueing to get a wild roller coaster ride at Port Aventura…are barely 50 miles away from the quintessentially Mediterranean landscapes around the town of Ulldecona.
But it is here, nested between two chains of bare hills that run parallel to the coast, that an astonishing concentration of unique, ancient treasures awaits those travellers curious enough to go off the beaten path.
What to see around Ulldecona:
1) The largest concentration of millenary olive trees in the World
2) The Iberian hilltop fort of La Mola del Remei (located, actually, in the nearby town of Alcanar)
3) Prehistoric cave art of the Abric d’Ermites
In fact, this is not all, because the urban center of Ulldecona is crowned by a well preserved medieval castle, yet when prioritising our schedule by order of ancientness, we found out that did not have enough time to visit it!
This post is the chronicle, in no particular order, of a day trip from Barcelona to the Southern-most town in Catalonia and an exploration of its nearby (pre)historical sites.
How to get to Ulldecona
Getting to Ulldecona is quite easy, provided you have a car, as Ulldecona lies right next to the major AP-7 highway that runs all along Spain’s Mediterranean coast. It’s about 2h drive to Barcelona going North and a similar distance to Valencia going South.
There is also a train station, but most trains don’t stop locally and service is spotty.
In any case, it is difficult to visit the sites detailed in this post without a car.
The train station is a good starting point for any visit, though, as it is next to the local tourist office, hosted in an early 20th C. modernist building (below). Its interior has been fitted with modern exhibits about the region and its main agrarian produce: olive oil.
The olive trees
Olive trees are truly amazing living things.
They can live for thousands of years and still keep producing their valued harvest, season after season.
It is mind-blowing to imagine what some of the olive trees we have in front of us might have seen…
We are at the Arión estate, a couple of miles west of Ulldecona. We have come here because here is found what is, allegedly, the largest concentration of millenary olive trees anywhere in the World.
And the start of all of them, a tree called “La Farga D’Arion”.
Although quite impressive in its voluptuous shapes, to the untrained eye it looks not too different from the surrounding monumental olive trees. Yet, this particular tree has been around for some 1,700 years. Some scientific studies have dated it to the 4th Century AD, the reign of the Roman emperor Constantine.
Local conservationists claim this makes it the oldest living scientifically-dated olive tree, although this is disputed by some other claimants in the Eastern Mediterranean.
In any case, it is a truly spectacular living organism. The presence around it of tens of other trees that are hundreds and perhaps even over a thousand years old, adds to the attractive of this place.
Most of these ancient trees are of the Farga variety. The fact that it is less productive than other varieties means its cultivation was progressively abandoned and only a few pockets like the Arion Estate remained.
In recent times, efforts have been made to recover and protect these living monuments.
Perhaps one of the most effective ways to guarantee they continue well kept for many years, though, is the fact that some local entrepreneurs have started producing and marketing “millenary oil” produced with olives harvested from these trees.
Yes, you can consume olive oil from a tree that was already producing in the Roman era!
Millenary Oil
Amador (pictured below) is one of such olive oil entrepreneurs.
Based in the town of Traiguera, across the river Sènia, that separates Catalonia and the Valencia Region. Amador not only harvests from its own olive groves, but also has moved around the whole area, identifying ancient trees and negotiating with local landowners the harvesting of their fruits.
Back at its small mill in Traiguera, in a semi-artisanal operation, Amador bottles this oil with the “Millenary Oil” label. This is a quality brand that has been set up by a number of local producers that decided that, instead of the traditional bulk trade, they would move upmarket by highlighting this very unique characteristic of the olive oil they produce.
Despite its small production, Amador’s millenary olive oil has achieved a degree of international success, with orders arriving from places as far as China.
The popularization of high quality extra virgin olive oil outside its traditional Mediterranean markets has certainly contributed to differentiated olive oils, such as those under the Millenary Olive Oil label, to exploit its differentiated positioning.
By the way, you can buy Amador’s millenary olive oil here: https://www.aceitespeset.com/
Amazingly, some of the olive trees currently producing for the “Millenary Oil” brands were abandoned and in a rather derelict state until quite recently.
Iberian Hill Fort
The next stop takes it a few centuries back, to pre-Roman times.
Located on one of a 200m-high peak on the Serra del Montsià and overlooking the sea and the town of Alcanar, there is the Iberian hilltop city of Moleta del Remei.
It is believed that it was occupied between the 7th C. and 2nd C. BC by an Iberian tribe called the Ilercavones.
At least two stages of habitation have been established, the first iron age hamlet possibly destroyed by fire and then rebuilt. It was self-contained within solid stone walls, that also acted as walls for some of the houses, as can be clearly seen when visiting the ruins.
It is possible to see a reconstruction (below) of how one of the houses may have looked like.
The hilltop fort had also a great view points over the surrounding territory and the sea and had other satellite settlements in nearby hills.
It looks like it was abandoned shortly after the Roman colonization. The newcomers had certainly different ideas when it comes to urban planning!
The Cave Paintings
But if an iron age hilltop settlement and the millenary olive trees were not ancient enough for you. Here is another treat: the beautifully preserved prehistoric cave paintings on the Serra de Godall, declared World Heritage Site by UNESCO.
The paintings are actually in the open, not inside a deep cave, but under an outdoors rock shelter. To get there you just need to walk some 50m from a little church (Ermita de la Pietat, hence the name the paintings are also often called “Abrics de l’Ermita”).
The paintings are some of the best preserved examples of the so called “Levantine cave or rock paintings”, a type (or style) of cave art that is found in over 700 sites all throughout Eastern Spain.
Although dating is not precise, it is believe that this Levantine style of rock art originated in a transition period between the Paleolithic and the Neolithic, that is 8000 to 3,500 BC.
The ones here in Godall, near Ulldecona are scattered all over the rock wall. The stylized figures are clearly visible to the naked eye, with animals and hunters painted in warm colours that melt into the yellowish-reddish tones of the stone.
A truly amazing sight and really easy and straightforward to visit. For free.
To learn more about this amazing region, you can also check my piece on CNN Travel: “Spain's ancient olive trees: New taste for old flavor”
Also, may thanks for its guidance and support during the field trip to Jaume, director of Taula del Sènia, an entity that aims to reinforce institutional cooperation between the three territories that meet in this area: Catalonia, the Valencia Region and Aragon.