Top things to do and to see in Franconia (& 4): Nuremberg
And this is how, after an intense weekend traveling by rail through the Franconia region of northern Bavaria, a journey that took me earlier to the beautiful historical towns of Bamberg, Forchheim and Fürth, reached its end at the Imperial city of Nuremberg.
Why Imperial city? Because since the Middle Ages and until Napoleon dissolved it in 1806, Nuremberg was governed as a free city that owed its allegiance directly to the emperor of the Holy Roman Empire.
What’s more, Nuremberg was also a designated meeting place for the Imperial Diet, a sort of proto-parliament attended by representatives of the many polities that made up the Holy Roman Empire, and it safeguarded also the Imperial Regalia.
But Nuremberg was also an important commercial city which commanded a rather large and rich hinterland from the safety of its imposing walls.
Nuremberg was perhaps at its peak during the early modern era, in the 16th C. and early 17th C., when it also gave the world its most renowned artist: Albrecht Dürer (1471-1528), whose home and studio in the city is still possible to visit in the historical downtown (in addition to giving its name to Nuremberg’s airport too!).
To be honest, this post possibly doesn’t do justice to Nuremberg, because due to time constraints I had to skip some of its top museums: the German National Museum of Toys (Spielzeugmuseum), the museum of the German railways (Deutsche Bahn Museum), the new Deutsches Museum Nuremberg, which focuses on technology, and the more classic Germanisches Nationalmuseum (Germanic National Museum), which focuses on German history.
What I did have time to visit were two sites connected to the more recent history of the city, and not a particularly proud period of it. These are two locations connected with the beginning and also the end of the Nazi period in Germany: Zeppelinfeld, where some of the first Nazi rallies were held, and the Nuremberg palace of justice, where the famous Nuremberg Trials were held after the war.
So, quite a lot to see in Nuremberg, a city that, while big, has still a very manageable size and a public transport system that makes it relatively easy and convenient to move around.
Traveler’s Tip: If you are planning to visit several of Nuremberg’s museums you can purchase a “Nuremberg Card”, which costs €38 and gives you access to most of them within 48 hours and includes also the public transport fare (metro, tram and S-Bahn) for Nuremberg’s Zone A, which covers the airport too.
So, without further ado, let’s have a look at the top things to do in Nuremberg if, like me, you are on a limited time budget!
Top things to see in Nuremberg that are covered in this post:
Nuremberg’s historical center
Nuremberg Castle (Kaiserburg), walls and gardens
Albrecht Dürer’s house and museum
Hauptmarkt, St. Lorenz and the river banks
Nuremberg Memorium:
Nuremberg Trials Museum
Courtoom 600
Zeppelinfeld
A great place to eat in Nuremberg
A great place to stay in Nuremberg
This post may contain affiliate links. If you book or buy something through them, I earn a small commission, at no extra cost to you. It's one of the ways I keep Places of Charm going. Thank you for your support.
I would like to thank also Franken Tourismus for facilitating this journey. All opinions are my own.
Things to see in Nuremberg’s historical centre
Nuremberg Castle (Kaiserburg)
Nuremberg’s castle has been the dominant feature in Nuremberg’s skyline since the Middle Ages. The castle is located on a hilltop at the northern edge of the old town, dominating the historical centre below it and providing some of the best of the city (but perhaps not THE best, as you will soon see further down this post!)
To get up the castle you will need to walk uphill, but the views are well worth it!
You can visit the inside of the castle if you feel inclined to do so.
The castle was, apparently, very heavily damaged by bombing during WW2, so many of the interiors are actually a post-war restoration.
In my case, I just walked around the outer areas to get a feel of the place and to optimize my time.
One of the aspects of the castle that are quite impressive is that it is atop a massive rock, which you can see in some places with the naked eye.
You don’t need any ticket to enter the castle’s enceinte and access the viewpoint facing the old town. It is also possible to walk a segment of the walls, which end in a small square adorned by some perfectly manicured gardens.
Albrecht Dürer’s House and Museum
The other focal point in this part of the old town and very close to Nuremberg Castle is the house where Albrecht Dürer lived part of his life. This half-timbered building is on the corner of a small square which opens up just underneath the castle and adjacent to the city walls.
This is a spot where many people congregate when the weather is nice and warm, since the south-facing slope makes it a good spot for groups to congregate and for tourists to get some rest and refreshment at the several bars that line the square.
Albrecht Dürer is one of the great artists of the Renaissance era. He was contemporary to the great Italian masters of the time (Leonardo, Michelangelo and Raphael), but developed his own brand and style of creation. And while he was a very talented painter, Dürer is particularly well known for his engravings. This technology, which used an early form of printing press, allowed Dürer’s work to spread fast across Europe, making it famous and celebrated across the continent.
In this sense, Dürer was also “modern”, not just in adopting new technology to amplify its work, but also in that he was one of the first artists to cultivate his own image and fame.
The house you can visit in Nuremberg was bought by Albrecht Dürer when he was already a well-known and reasonably well-off artist and he lived there with his family until his death in 1528.
Obviously, the building has suffered modifications throughout the centuries, but it has been painfully restored to something similar to what it may have looked like at the time. It now houses a small museum about the life and work of Albrecht Dürer.
It takes 30-40 minutes to see and it is a quite interesting way to learn more about a very interesting artist that is perhaps not as universally well-known as his contemporaries south of the Alps.
The entrance fee is €7.5 (it is also included in the Nuremberg Card) and an audioguide is included. Beware, that, as it is common in old buildings, there are some steep stairs to climb to do the visit!
A walk through Nuremberg’s historical center
Besides the castle and museums, Nuremberg is endowed with a very large and mostly pedestrianized historical center to walk through.
As mentioned earlier, a large portion of Nuremberg’s city walls are still standing and in a good state of preservation, complete with the moat and towers.
The river Pegnitz also runs through the city center, dividing it in two, and with its two opposite banks sloping gently towards it. This offers also some nice views from specific spots.
If you are entering the historical town from the side of the central station (Hauptbahnhof) a typical route that would take you to the castle past some of the city’s top landmarks would be through Königstrasse north towards Saint Lorenz (depicted right) and then onwards to Hauptmarkt (the setting of Nuremberg’s famous Christmas market!).
At Hauptmarkt (below left) you will find the Schöner Brunnen (Beautiful Fountain) and the Frauenkirche, both built in the 14th C. Just north of it is Saint Sebaldus, another large Gothic church of note.
Continuing further up you reach the Albrecht Dürer house and the foot of the castle.
But you may also choose to walk south and west from Hauptmarkt, across the several bridges spanning the river Pegnitz, towards the Weisser Turm and Saint Jakob’s (below right).
Nuremberg has managed to preserve the charm of its historical centre or, I should rather say “to restore” because the city, including the old town was thoroughly destroyed during the last months of WW2 and later faithfully reconstructed.
Let’s be clear, however, this city is not an open-air museum frozen in time, it has remained a lively,. commercial city throughout and this is apparent in the buzz and activity on its streets, even on a relatively Sunday afternoon, as it was the case of my visit.
By the way, since most of the city’s landmarks are well illuminated at night for effect, Nuremberg’s historical centre makes also for a beautiful walk at night.
The Nuremberg of WW2
Memorium & the Nuremberg Trials courtroom
And from medieval and early modern Nuremberg to WW2, because the city has preserved sites which are linked to two very specific moments to that dark historical episode.
Remarkably these refer to both the rise and the fall of Nazism. One of them is Zeppelinfeld (covered further down this post), the other, and more impressive from a visitor’s point of view, is “Memorium”, the museum and documentation center at Nuremberg’s Palace of Justice, in which Nazi war criminals were tried after the war.
Memorium is located within the Nuremberg’s Palace of Justice. Note that the building, including the historical Courtroom 600, where the trial of the main Nazi leaders (at least those that could be captured alive) took place, is still in use today as a court of justice!
This site is an absolute must for anyone minimally interested in WW2 and, more generally, in international political and legal affairs.
The Palace of Justice is not in the very center of the city, but it is not very far either. It can be reached very conveniently, a 10min metro ride (station Bärenschanze), from Nuremberg’s central station. From the metro station it is a 200m walk to the entrance of the museum area, which occupies a wing of the Palace of Justice building.
The entrance fee is €7.50, although it is also one of the attractions included in the Nuremberg Card.
Once there, you are encouraged to download an app which acts as an audioguide (and it has also some gamified features for children).
It is not a requirement to download it, but I would advise doing so if you want to fully enjoy the experience and get all the wealth of information in it.
To be honest, there is so much information, including all the transcripts of the different speeches and other texts related to the trials, that you possibly won’t use all of it. But, nevertheless, is a good way to learn about the many details of the trials.
The most well-known of these trials are the ones that took place in 1945-46, with some of the remaining Nazi leaders. However, there were other batches of trials in the second half of the 1940s concerning also other lower rank Nazis which also took part in war crimes.
The trials represented quite a feat and not only because they involved getting countries which, while formally allies had very different world views, to agree on some common definitions of justice and in what could be define as a crime against humanity.
There were also quite a few practicalities to solve, such as, for example, having real time multi-language translations or getting the media to cover and document the whole process, something which was not trivial with the technology of the time.
The trials, however, were quite a success in terms of what they were trying to achieve, which was to set an example and standard of justice for regimes that commit atrocities and crimes against humanity.
Courtroom 600
This is, without doubt, the highlight of the visit. It is the very same room in which the trials took place. Even if it has suffered some modifications since the 1940s (which are all explained in the app), the general appearance is easily recognizable if you have seen footage of the original Nuremberg Trials.
Quite an impressive sight, to say the least!
Then, there is the adjacent museum, one floor up.
The museum itself is not huge, but it is very dense in information and content.
The exhibition details the fundaments of international humanitarian law and the legal principles that were used to conduct the trials.
It then moves to explain the trials themselves, the charges presented against the defendants and the arguments that were used by the different parties.
There are lots of details about the practical aspects of the trials, the conditions in which the defendants were kept and their final fate.
You can also see some original items, such as the benches in which the defendants were sitting during the trial.
Below is the view from the wing of the building where the Nuremberg Trials took place. In the background is the former prison, where the Nazi war criminals were kept during the proceedings. Most of that old prison building was demolished some time after the trials, but you can get an idea of the place.
You can also get a view from above of the courtroom. In fact, during the trials, the American forces, which were responsible for the logistics on site, added a sort of elevated stage at this end of the room so that the attending media could better follow the sessions.
Visiting Zeppelinfeld
This is the other place in Nuremberg that is a must-visit for anyone interested in the history of the Second World War.
This is a large open ground which is infamously linked to the rise of the Nazism, since it was here that the Nazis held some of its mass rallies in the years before the war, with Hitler in attendance.
The name of the place actually comes the fact that, way before that, in 1909, airship pioneer Count Ferdinand von Zeppelin landed one of its airships here during a demonstration flight.
In 1937 Nazi architect (and later munitions minister) Albert Speer build a some monumental grounds at this spot, complete with a tribune from where Hitler and the other senior party leaders could preside the military parades.
In April 1945, the US 7th Army arrived in Nuremberg and after fierce fighting managed to capture the city. Shortly after the war was over, in a very symbolic move which was captured on camera, US military engineers blew up the large marble Swastika which was atop the main structure.
You can watch that moment in this short video documentary on Mark Felton’s channel, which contains also some interesting footage of the battle for Nuremberg in the last days of WW2 and shows the state of utter destruction in which the old town of Nuremberg was left.
After the war the venue was used for sports and music events and other public activities, but, apparently, no one was sure what to do with what was left of the main structures, which are still standing today, even if in a rather derelict state.
After the war the venue was used for sports events and other activities but, apparently, no one was sure what to do with what was left of the structures, so they have been left as they stood in a more or less derelict state.
At the time of my visit the tribune at Zeppelinfeld was cordoned off and covered in scaffoldings, since there is a project to conduct some restoration work in order to strengthen the site’s role as a place of memory and remembrance.
Besides the parade ground, with its tribune and grandstands, the Zeppelinfeld complex included also a large congress center across a small lake. Since 2001 that building, which was closed at the time of my visit, has hosted a research and documentation centre about the Nazi period.
The parade grounds themselves are open to the public, and are integrated in a larger outdoor recreation area, with quite a lot of greenery around.
Zeppelinfeld is a bit outside the city center, but it is quite easy to reach. You can take one of several tram lines or the S-Bahn. It takes a couple of stops and less than 10 minutes from the central station, getting off either at the “Nürnberg-Dutzendteich” or “Nürnberg Frankenstadion” stops and walking from there.
Great place to eat local food in Nuremberg
Bratwurstküche Zum gulden Stern
Zirkelschmiedsgasse 26, 90402 Nürnberg
If you are looking for a place to eat Franconian food or, more specifically Nuremberg’s signature sausage, the “Nürnberger Rostbratwurst”, look no further!
In fact, “Zum gulden Stern” claims to be not only the oldest Bratwurstküche restaurant in Nuremberg, but in the entire world!
Nuremberg Rostbratwurst is smaller than other German types of bratwurst and it is typically roasted over an open fire and served accompanied of sauerkraut, horseradish and a specific type of mustard that is sweeter than the standard one.
“Zum gulden Stern” traces its roots back to 1419, although it exists in its current form thanks to the efforts of a local entrpreneur, who is 1985 bought the derelict medieval building to save it from demolition and (re-)start the restaurant. His children are the ones now running it.
Whether the 600-year history claim is legitimate or exaggerated, the fact is that the owners of “Zum gulden Stern” do a really good job in creating the sort of cozy atmosphere with wholesome authentic local food that, I am sure, many visitors appreciate in a place like Nuremberg.
Most of the ingredients are locally sourced, as indicated in the menu, and the sausages are roasted in an open kitchen over a real wood fire. Prices are also very reasonable. So, overall this place provides a very nice experience and would recommend it to anyone looking to get the real Nuremberg culinary experience!
Top (literally!) place to stay in Nuremberg
Cloud One Hotel
Bahnhofspl. 1, 90402 Nürnberg
The Cloud One Hotel has possibly the best views in Nuremberg (by some parameters even better than the ones you get from the castle!).
This is due to the fact that it is one of the few high rises in town. Right outside the city walls but close enough to the historical centre to provide amazing views from its top floors. It is also just meters away from the central station (Hauptbahnhof), which makes it super convenient to go anywhere, since this is really the neuralgic centre of the city with most metro, tram, bus and rail lines converging here.
As an example, the Nuremberg Trials Memorium is less than 10min and the airport, 12 minutes away by direct metro. The nearby city of Fürth is barely 20 minutes and a couple of stops away by S-Bahn.
As you can see in these pictures, the rooms are small, but modern. The views from the 11th floor are absolutely stunning.
The Cloud One Hotel brand is apparently a premium offshot of the same German hotel group which manages Motel One. There are Cloud One hotels now at several German cities and even in New York City. The Nuremberg property, in particular, had been recently renovated at the time of my visit.
The hotel has also a very stylish cocktail bar on its top (14th) floor, also with truly privileged city views.
Breakfast was also pretty good, again with the majestic views (13th floor this time) and with lots of local products to try!
And, with this tasty Franconian breakfast, this itinerary through some of Germany’s most beautiful towns comes to and end.
If you are interested in learning more about Franconia and what to do and what to see in this beautiful part of Bavaria, check out my previous posts this region.
Top things to do and see in Franconia (III): Fürth, the “Franconian Jerusalem”
After visiting the beautiful historical towns of Bamberg and Forchheim, the next stop in my Franconian tour was the city of Fürth.
Now, if you look it up on the map, you will see that Fürth is today pretty much integrated into the greater Nuremberg urban agglomeration.
However, this Franconian city of more than 130,000 people has a rather rich and interesting history of its own and it is well worth a visit.
Fürth has enough to keep you going for a full day and it can also be visited as a day excursion from Nuremberg (since their urban transportation networks are interconnected, including the metro and S-Bahn, the suburban train system).
So, on this post I will share my impressions of my visit to Fürth and its main landmarks.
Here are some of the topics you will find next in this post:
The growth of industrial Fürth & its Italianate town hall
The Jewish heritage of Fürth
Protestantism in Fürth and the 30-Year War
The historical town of Fürth
Henry Kissinger’s birthplace in Fürth
Where to eat Franconian food in Fürth
This post may contain affiliate links. If you book or buy something through them, I earn a small commission, at no extra cost to you. It's one of the ways I keep Places of Charm going. Thank you for your support.
I would like to thank also Franken Tourismus and the Fürth Tourist Office for facilitating this journey and arranging a tour of Fürth with the great local guide Monika. All opinions are my own.
Walking around Fürth
Fürth is quite an old city, the origins of which can be traced back to the early Middle Ages.
In fact, its name is possibly derived from the old Germanic word for “ford” since Fürth sits at the confluence of the Pegnitz and Rednitz rivers (which join together a bit north of the city to form the Regnitz, the river which we have already seen in Bamberg and Forchheim earlier in this series).
While Fürth has grown over the centuries somehow under the shadow of the much larger (and Imperial) neighbouring city of Nuremberg, it has always had a very strong character of its own.
This is reflected today in some symbols of local identity, such as the cloverleaf, which is visible in quite a few urban ornaments (no connection with Ireland that I am aware of!). In past centuries, however, Fürth distinctive status in the German political order was based on a rather unusual political set up in which three entities shared power over parts of the city: the Princely Bishopric of Bamberg, the Principality of Ansbach, and the City of Nuremberg.
By the way, these three powers are depicted in one of the statues that adorn Fürth’s main commercial street (picture to the right).
This means, that, while very close to the Imperial city of Nuremberg, Fürth could sometimes carve its own path. For example, in the early 16th C., when many German territories, including the city of Nuremberg, were expelling their Jewish populations, Fürth welcomed them (in exchange of a “protection fee”, truth be told). This led, over time, to earn Fürth the nickname of “Franconian Jerusalem”, a topic we’ll revisit further down this post.
Another particularity of Fürth is that it was a Protestant stronghold in highly Catholic Franconia, this led to it being also the setting of some big military clashes in the 17th C. during the 30-Year War, something we’ll touch upon later in this post, as well.
So, Fürth evolved as a rather diverse cultural and religious entrepôt all the way to the industrial era, which Fürth also embraced wholeheartedly, becoming not just a major industrial centre but also the terminus of the first railway in Germany, which linked it to Nuremberg.
So, now, without further ado, let’s see what the city has to offer to the visitor today and my suggestions about what to do and what to see in Fürth.
Fürth has managed to preserve a small, nice historical center, however, the city has remained far from stagnant through the last five hundred years. In fact, most of Fürth’s current downtown is the product of the industrial revolution. Since the 19th C. Fürth became home to industries such as gold-beating, toy manufacturing, mirror production and electronics (radio and household appliances giant Gründig was founded in the city).
This gave Fürth the wealth and prosperity that allowed it to fund a world-class urban development program in the 19th C. and early 20th C. with broad avenues, elegant multi-storey buildings, department stores and a number of singular public buildings.
Among the latter was the Church of Our Lady, built in 1829, not long after Fürth joined the strongly Catholic Bavarian kingdom in 1806. Remarkably, the Church was built with voluntary contributions from the Protestant and Jewish communities.
Another civic venue which in the city which was built through citizen contributions (in this case with a major involvement of the city’s Jewish community) was the city’s majestic theatre venue, which was completed in 1902.
Interestingly, the architect that designed Fürth’s theatre used the blueprints it had devised for another theatre which had been commissioned to be built in what was then Czernowitz, in the Austro-Hungarian Empire (now Chernivtsi, in Ukraine). So the two cities did get eventually (more or less) the same building!
But perhaps the most eye-catching element dominating the Fürth skyline is the town hall, which was designed in the mid-19th C. If it reminds you of an Italian scene, it’s for a reason!
In their quest for something extraordinary, the citizens of Fürth decided that their city needed a replica of Florence’s Palazzo Vecchio as their new town hall!
It is possible to get to the top of the Town Hall tower to get a 360º panorama of the city of Fürth, with the city’s two well-defined parts, the old and modern ones, as well as the surrounding countryside and as far as the city of Nuremberg, the main landmarks of which are perfectly visible in the distance.
The Jewish Heritage of Fürth, the “Franconian Jerusalem”
We have already mentioned how Fürth became a safe haven for Jews which, in the 16th C, had to flee other parts of Germany.
Over the next few centuries the Jewish community of Fürth kept growing and the city became, actually, a very dynamic center of Jewish learning to the point that it became known as the “Franconian Jerusalem”.
The hub of Jewish cultural life in Fürth was an area called the “Schulhof” (or “School Courtyard”), which was exactly that: several centers of learning and prayer structured around a large open courtyard.
This part of Fürth’s history came to an abrupt end in the 1930s with the rise of Nazism in Germany. As it happened to other Jewish communities in Germany and Europe, the Nazis targeted Jews in Fürth and razed the Schulhof to the ground.
What you see today is an ensemble of modern post-war constructions more or less laid out around that central courtyard. A monument by Japanese artist Kunihiko Kato, now stands in the middle of the courtyard remembering that past and what happened to it.
Fürth has other sites connected to the Jewish past of the city, although I was not able to visit them all due to time constraints.
For example, there is also a Jewish Museum, which has been housed by a modern purpose-built facility since 2018 and documents the history of Jewish life in Fürth and Franconia.
Another interesting site is the old Jewish cemetery, which is located in the outskirts of the old town. Since it is no longer in use, vegetation has covered most of the large patch of land in which is located, including many of the old tombstones, giving it a somehow remarkable aspect, which invites contemplation and remembrance.
Visiting the historical center of Fürth
Continuing our walking tour of Fürth, we get to the historical town, which is not large, but survived WW2 pretty much intact.
Like many other historical German cities, Fürth has its fair share of half-timbered buildings, but if there is one aesthetic aspect for which this city stands out is its slate-clade facades.
Here, in Fürth, slate panels have been used profusely to cover all sort of surfaces, not just the roofs. Valued because of its insulating properties, slate is in facades and side-walls, often covering most of the building. In many places it is also possible to find facades which have been decorated by using patterned slate coverings.
The other thing that historical Fürth stands out for is the abundance of little courtyards, some public, some semi-private, many of them perfectly well kept as gardens.
This phenomenon may be partly explained by the location of Fürth on a major axis of communication linking Nuremberg to Frankfurt and other major German cities. With Nuremberg a mere five miles away, the city of Fürth made a convenient overnight stop before being able to cross Nuremberg’s city gates in the morning. the courtyards provided a a safe place for travelers to leave their horses or carts for the night while sleeping at the adjacent inns.
Protestantism and the Thirty Years War in Fürth
Fürth has also the particularity of being a majority-Protestant city in Catholic Bavaria. Fürth main Protestant church is Saint Michael’s, which is credired with being, possibly the oldest building in town, as well.
Fürth’s protestantism meant that in 1632, during the Thirty Years War, it hosted the King of Sweden, Gustavus Adolphus, which styled himself as a major defender of the Protestant cause in German lands.
The Swedish king is still remembered in Fürth, where a plaque and a bust remembers the royal visit. Gustav Adolphus apparently lodged at the rectory adjacent to Saint Michael’s church in June 1632. One of Fürth’s main streets is also named after the Swedish monarch.
Gustav Adolphus campaigning in the area of Fürth culminated in a battle at a nearby hill called Alte Veste (“Old Fortress”). There, after a prolongued stand-off, Swedish forces charged the Imperial army under the command of Albrecht von Wallenstein, with the latter reportedly getting the upper hand. The city of Fürth and the surrounding countryside reportedly suffered quite a lot of damage during that conflict.
Visiting Henry Kissinger’s birthplace
Fürth is the birthplace of two prominent statesmen.
One of them was Ludwig Erhard, who was Finance Minister of the German Federal Republic under Adenauer and later, between 1963 and 1966, Chancellor himself. A remarkable man who is widely credited with being one of the architects of the German post-war economic miracle (the so called “Wirtschaftswunder”).
The other major statesman born in Fürth is none other than Henry Kissinger, the formidable US Secretary of State.
Kissinger served in this capacity between 1973 and 1977 under Presidents Nixon and Ford, and later remained a very prominent and influential voice in international affairs pretty much until his death in 2023, at the venerable age of 100.
Kissinger was born to a middle class Jewish family at 23, Mathildenstrasse, in central Fürth and his native home still stands at this exact spot in a good state of preservation. A plaque by the door remembers visitors of this historical fact.
Kissinger’s family, however, had to flee Fürth, in 1938, as the environment was turning increasingly dangerous for German Jews. The Kissingers landed in the United States, where young Henry would go on to make a brilliant career, but this is another story that, I am sure, there are many other books and sources better qualified to tell in all detail.
Btw, the area in which Kissinger was born and spend his childhood in, with its broad, orderly avenues and solid residential and commercial housing blocs, is a good example of the modern expansion of the city of Fürth in the 19th C., as the city prospered as an industrial and trading center (in the picture below you can see how the streets of this district mostly look like).
Where to eat in Fürth
Gasthof Grüner Baum
Gustavstraße 34, 90762 Fürth
This restaurant and guesthouse is located in one of Fürth’s most historical buildings.
While the current building dates largely from the early 19th C., an inn has been documented at this spot since at least 1607. A 2018 renovation uncovered some parts of the old structure, such as a wooden ceiling. Legend has it that the Swedish king Gustav Adolphus may have dined here in 1632, but this is totally unverified!
It has a terrace which is lovely when the weather is nice, as it was the case during my visit.
The food was, you guessed it (particularly if you have followed the previous stages of this itinerary)…Franconian cuisine!
In this case it was the sausages, although those of you that prefer schnitzel, will also be well served here. The dishes were accompanied by a nice potato salad and Bavarian beer.
DÄCHLA Panoramic Terrace
Friedrichstraße 6a, 90762 Fürth
Another place of note in Fürth, particularly if you wish to have a coffee or a drink with some nice views is the rooftop bar at DÄCHLA, which is located at top of a the city’s public library in Dr.-Konrad-Adenauer-Anlage, a public park not far from the main train station.
Dächla, which apparently means “little roof” in Franconian dialect, has a large terrace offering nice views of the city (although not as impressive as the ones from the top of the town hall’s italianate tower).
This modern venue was renovated as recently as 2024. It works mostly as a coffee place during the day, doubling later as a trendy wine bar in the evenings.
Germany’s first railway in Fürth
This post about Fürth wouldn't be complete, even more so considering that this visit was part of an all-railway journey, without a mention of Germany's first railway, which connected the city to nearby Nuremberg.
This first German railway line opened in December 1835, with the Adler ("Eagle"), a primitive steam locomotive, making the inaugural six-kilometre run between the two cities.
The train departed not from the present-day railway station but from where today's Fürther Freiheit square is located. The original terminus, known as Ludwig's Station, was demolished in 1938 to make way for a Nazi parade ground. Today this area is a large open square which acts as a venue for several outdoor markets.
The history of Germany’s first railway is also remembered at Fürth’s railway station, where you can find several decor elements and even a scale model that relate to that major historical feat.
If you enjoyed this chronicle from Fürth, stay tuned for the fourth and last installment of the Franconian series, from its major city: Nuremberg.
Top things to see and do in Franconia (II): Forchheim & its underground beer cellars
We continue our rail itinerary through the heart of the Franconia region of Bavaria with a stop at Forchheim.
First of all, just a quick reminder that this is but the second stage of a four-city tour to explore some of the most beautiful towns in Franconia (“Franken” in German). You can, of course, read this post as a stand-alone, but if traveling to this area, let me suggest also our other stories about:
Let’s start with a few words about Forchheim, because, chances are you
With a population of around 30,000, Forchheim is actually larger than it looks when walking through its historical center. I am saying this, because the place is amazingly calm and relaxed, even when walking around on a weekend afternoon.
I guess this is due in part to the fact that, even if it is not lacking in charm and character, Forchheim does not get nearly as many visitors as nearby Bamberg, but also to a significant degree to the local population living kind of spread out all over the place rather than in a dense town center.
It is also worth noting that, during the warm months most of the social activity, particularly in the weekends and festive days, switches to the Kellerwald area, an outdoors recreation area with underground beer cellars (more on this unique feature of Forchheim further down this post)!
I must confess that I hadn’t really heard about Forchheim when the Franconia Tourist Office, which helped organize this trip, suggested a stop in Forchheim, but the place didn’t disappoint and, if you like artisan beer and traveling through Upper Franconia, you should definitely make some space for this town!
By the way, Forchheim is also considered to be one of the gateways to the “Fanconian Switzerland”, an area renowned for its natural beauty. Although this aspect of Forchheim is not the object of this post (I was sticking to the main rail axis on this occasion), it is worth noting in case you were traveling through Franconia by car.
This post may contain affiliate links. If you book or buy something through them, I earn a small commission, at no extra cost to you. It's one of the ways I keep Places of Charm going. Thank you for your support.
I would like to thank also Franken Tourismus for facilitating this journey and arranging a tour of Forchheim with the excellent local guide Christiane. All opinions are my own.
So, this is how I arrived to Forchheim from Bamberg, which is barely 20 minutes away by regional train (the ticket was around €6.5 at the time of my visit). The central station is literally 5 minutes away from the historical center (and 2 min from my hotel, the Arivo Aparthotel, which I will review, as well, later in this post).
Forchheim is, actually, quite an old place. There are mentions to it already in the Carolingian era and, from the 11th C. it belonged to the Price-Bishops of Bamberg, who had their own palace in town, as well. Like the rest of this ancient princely bishopric, Forchheim was annexed by Bavaria in the early 19th C.
Another important feature of the town is the river Wiesent, which runs through Forchheim’s old town before joining the river Regnitz just west of the city (besides being the same river that flows through Bamberg, the Regnitz is part of the river and canal system that connects the Rhein and Main basins to the Danube).
The waters of the Wiesent provide some of the most picturesque photo opportunities in Forchheim and give it also one of the first landmarks we encountered in our itinerary, the fish cages (“Fischkästen”). These are wooden structures lining up the banks of the Wiesent, where, for centuries, local fishermen have kept captured fish, mostly carp, alive before taking them to the market.
It is also along the banks of the Wiesent that we find a reminder of the fact Forchheim used to have a Jewish community, which was, sadly, destroyed in the late 1930s. A memorial (depicted below) is located in front of where the town’s synagogue once stood before it was torn down in 1938.
The historical center of Forchheim is made of (partly) pedestrianized cobblestone streets, so it makes for a nice walk.
There is one major landmark, which is the former Imperial Palace (“Kaiserpfalz”). This building, which is depicted below right, has a large open courtyard and today it houses the local museum. It takes it name from its early Carolingian origins, although the current structure dates back to the 14th C. when the town was under the rule of the Prince-Bishops of Bamberg.
Another curious structure in the historical center is this leaning timbered-house you can see depicted above.
Forchheim used to be also a fortified stronghold, which resisted successfully attacks by Swedish troops during the 30-years War in the 17th C.
Parts of the massive bastions are still standing and today they are part of the historical trail through the old town.
Most of the old town of Forchheim has preserved its authentic character, although many of its half-timbered houses were plastered over during the last few centuries, as, apparently, this type of style was, at times, not particularly popular. After restoration, many old houses in Forchheim, however, display again their half-timbered structure.
Forchheim is also a majority-Catholic town, so it is common to see religious imagery in public places, like the facades of homes.
Another important fact about Forchheim is that it used to have more than 20 breweries downtown. Their number, however, have been dwindling and today there are only three of them left.
The smaller number of commercial breweries does not mean, however, that the locals have turned their backs to beer. As we shall soon see, beer culture in Forchheim is alive and kicking and this does include a fair amount of home-made, artisan brews which are mostly consumed during the local festivals.
Where to eat Franconian food in Forchheim
Birgits Bauernstübla
Klosterstraße 18, 91301 Forchheim
This is a very nice place to sample from Franconian cuisine, particularly if the weather is nice, since it has an outdoor terrace.
Here I tried Schäufele mit Kloß. This a typical Franconian speciality, which consists in a slow-braised pork shoulder which has been marinated in dark beer. It has a deep, crackling, caramelised crust, the meat underneath which is extremely tender. It is served with a copious amount of gravy and with a side dish of sauerkraut and, another Franconian culinary must, the Klöße.
These are spherical potato dumplings, made from a mixture of raw and cooked grated potato. They are very dense and tasty. All of this, of course, consumed with some local Franconian beer. In this case it was Veldensteiner, made by a craft brewery from Neuhaus an der Pegnitz, a small town east of Forchheim.
Kellerwald & Annafest: exploring artisan beer culture in Forchheim
After our exploration of historical Forchheim and local Franconia cuisine, it is time to check a rather unique feature of the town: its underground beer cellars and the whole beer culture around them.
To do so, we leave the downtown and walk a couple of kilometres to the eastern outskirts of town, to a small forested hill known as “Kellerwald” (“Cellar Forest” in German). It is here that, for at least 400 years, the people of Forchheim have used and shaped the natural underground caves that form in the local limestone formations in order to store beer during the latter’s fermentation process.
The production of the type of beer that is popular in this part of Franconia requires relatively cold and stable temperatures and this is what these underground caves provided, since the temperature inside stays constant at around around 6–10°C throughout the year. This was particularly useful in the pre-industrial era, when to artificial refrigeration was available.
Nowadays, of course, you don’t really need to store beer in caves and, therefore, only a small portion of the underground cellar network is still used. However, a number of beer makers around Forchheim have preserved this tradition.
But don’t think of Kellerwald just as some sort of historical curiosity, it is here that, since 1840, Forchheim puts together one of the largest beer festivals in Bavaria, “Annafest”. Named after the festivity of Saint Anna, which is on July 26th (it takes places in the days around it), Annafest congregates some 500,000 people at Forchheim’s Kellerwald for several days (and evenings!) of beer drinking and fun.
Think of it as a sort of small-scale “Oktoberfest”, just that this one takes place in the middle of summer!
Annafest is really a big thing in Forchheim. It is an event that pretty much the whole community plan for during the whole year. There is even an official “Queen of Annafest”, which is elected every two years and represents the town of Forchheim at other similar events and festivals throughout Germany.
But you don’t need to wait to late July to enjoy beer drinking at Forchheim’s Kellerwald. While Annafest is the peak time of the season, the Kellerwald cellars start opening in spring, as soon as the weather is warm enough.
A whole network of beer gardens, restaurants and temporary food and beer stalls springs up around late April or early May and stays put all throughout the summer offering an outdoor venue for the citizens of Forchheim and visitors to enjoy the outdoors while sampling the fresh local beer.
The party at the Kellerwald starts in the evening, before dusk and can go on until relatively late (there are no sleepless neighbours at the Kellerwald!). It is not just about beer, there are also food stalls, live music and, above else, a lot of socializing!
Where to stay in Forchheim
Arivo Aparthotel Forchheim
Bayreuther Str. 1, 91301 Forchheim
This very modern aparthotel was a truly positive surprise. It is located right next to Forchheim’s train station, which makes it super convenient if you are traveling by train. By the way, the aparthotel may be located close to the tracks, but it is also very quiet, I had a room facing the station and didn’t hear a thing from that direction during my stay!).
Arivo Aparthotel Forchheim operates a clerk-less checkin, you are given a set of codes with your reservation and you can make your way to the room without having to interact with anyone.
The whole building appears to be really new and modern. My room was super big and had a common bedroom-living room area separated by a false wall which holds a large flat screen tv.
It had also a small kitchen and working desk as well as plenty of space to leave the luggage. There was some complimentary welcome coffee (from a Nespresso-style coffee machine) and some fresh sparkling water in the fridge.
The bathroom is also super modern and in contemporary style. Everything was super clean.
The ground floor has a rather large lobby-common area and restaurant, which is where breakfast is served in the morning. You can get the look and feel of the place in the images below. The breakfast was continental-type buffet.
The Arivo Aparthotel has also parking space, not relevant for me in this case, but I guess, it kind be quite an important detail to mention for those that are touring Franconia by car.
You can book this hotel here!
Top things to see and do in Franconia (I): a tour of Bamberg
If you are looking for a Germany of charming fairy tale towns, almost intact medieval heritage, artisan beer and bratwürst, look no further than Franconia.
A Russian doll of cultural identities, local pride rules strong in Franconia (“Franken” in German), which is a historical region of northern Bavaria, itself, a former Kingdom and one of the parts of Germany that has most fiercely preserved its own character and distinct identity.
Culturally, it is equally varied: part of it is wine country, while other areas lean firmly towards beer; and while Bavaria is predominantly Catholic, Franconia contains Protestant enclaves, such as the city of Fürth.
This is perhaps due to the fact that, like much of the German lands, historically, Franconia was a complex patchwork of sovereignties, with different rulers sometimes having overlapping claims to parts of the land. Among them, Nuremberg held a pre-eminent role, since it is the place where the Imperial Diet (of the so-called “Holy Roman Empire”). Franconia only became part of Bavaria in the early 19th century, when the whole area became one of Napoleon’s client states.
In fact, Franconia is large enough that it can be divided in three large areas: Upper Franconia (Oberfranken), Middle Franconia (Mittelfranken) and Lower Franconia (Unterfranken), although this series of posts will cover only a relatively small central section of it, starting in Bamberg in the north and ending in Nuremberg at the southern end of my itinerary.
What’s more, unlike in other itineraries that I have featured on this site, this time my entire journey was done by train, since all four Franconian cities that I had the chance to visit (Bamberg, Forchheim, Fürth and Nuremberg) sit neatly in a straight line. This was, I think, a pretty efficient (and sustainable!) way to explore this region.
So, this post is the first of a series of four installments in which I will share my impressions of this region and some tips about what to do and what to see when visiting Franconia.
My itinerary started in Berlin, from where I traveled by train to Bamberg and then moved continued moving south always by train, all the way to Nuremberg, the largest city of the lot, by far.
This post may contain affiliate links. If you book or buy something through them, I earn a small commission, at no extra cost to you. It's one of the ways I keep Places of Charm going. Thank you for your support.
I would like to thank also Franken Tourismus for facilitating this journey through Franconia and the visit to Bamberg with excellent local guide Sabine. All opinions are my own.
Half a day in Bamberg: what to do and what to see
Bamberg is one of the jewels, not just of Franconia, but of Bavaria as well. Besides being a town of historical significance (it used to be the capital of a small principality ruled by a bishop), Bamberg was practically untouched by WW2, so most of what you see here is what a German pre-industrial city used to look like. Since 1993, Bamberg has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
What’s more, it’s geographical setting greatly enhances its historical attractiveness. First, there is the fact that, like Rome and several other cities of note, the city of Bamberg was built on seven hills. Then, there is the presence of the river Regnitz, a tributary of the Main, and therefore, the Rhein, which is navigable and accessible by river cruises (such as those operated by Viking Cruises, an old friend of this site!) and other operators. The river divides its waters between several canals when it passes through Bamberg’s old town, adding significantly to the aesthetics of the place.
I arrived at Bamberg’s main train station mid-morning and, after leaving my luggage at the station’s storage area (make sure you have €2 and €1 coins with you!) I headed on foot towards the old town, which is a mere 15-20 walk away.
I was to meet my guide for the day, Sabine, at Schlenkerla, Bamberg’s most iconic brewery (more on this place further down this article), for a quick but relatively intense walking tour of the city.
Bamberg’s “Little Venice”
When approaching Bamberg’s old town from the train station, you will first have to cross the Reignetz and its several canals. You will then be in an area popularly known as “Little Venice”, obviously because of its connection to water.
There is even a gondola service that would give you a ride through the canals for a fee! Or, if you prefer something more conventional, you will also find here several boats that a carry tourists around. We didn’t do that, and went for a stroll along the banks of the Reignetz instead.
When the weather is nice, as was the case during my visit, Bamberg’s river side is an amazingly beautiful place. However, crowds can form at some spots, and for good reason!
One such spots is the small island that holds what is one of Bamberg’s most distinctive buildings, the old town hall (“Altes Rathaus”), which is the beautifully ornated historical building the picture of which opens this article.
The whole area along the river banks, though, is pretty harmonious and makes for a pleasant walk.
A walk through Bamberg’s old town
Our itinerary then took us uphill, for it is at the top of one of Bamberg’s seven hills that we find what was the nucleus of Bamberg’s political and ecclesiastic power for around eight centuries.
Bamberg’s Cathedral (“Bamberger Dom”) is the most imposing building of the lot and, from its hilltop position dominates the rest of the town. It has Romanesque and Gothic elements and no less than four towers.
Besides its religious and political importance, Bamberg Cathedral has two interesting curiosities: it has the tomb of Pope Clement II, which is the only papal tomb north of the Alps.
And it also has the Bamberg Rider, “Bamberger Reiter” in German (picture above right), which is a 13th C. statue which, to this day, no one knows who does it represent.
It is here, adjacent to each other and structured around a large open and somehow inclined square, that we find two other very prominent structures.
One of them is the Old Court, which is one of the oldest structures in the city and once upon a time an Epicospal residence, the other is the Neues Residenz (below), which was the main palace of the princely bishops of Bamberg.
Below you can see the Old Court, which is a collection of very old timbered buildings organized around a central courtyard.
The old town of Bamberg is surrounded by greenery and, while there is a constant flow of tourists, it has quite a few quite and really calm spots.
Another building of note is the Monastery of St Michael, which sits on top of another of Bamberg’s hills (the” Michelsberg”). It was built in the 11th C. as a Benedictine monastery and was secularized in the early 19th C.
It is one of the most iconic elements in Bamberg’s skyline, particularly when seen from the Rose Garden. The latter, which is an annex of the Neues Residenz, is a perfectly manicured classical garden which opens onto a terrace providing what is likely the best panoramic view of the city.
The walk through old Bamberg took us through several picturesque locations, with the unequal terrain offering several interesting perspectives.
There are several other large churches of historical interest in Bamberg, such as Saint Jakob (a branch of the “Way of Saint James”, the famous pilgrimage route, passes apparently through Bamberg), Saint Stephan and the Parish Church of Our Lady (“Pfarrkirche Unsere Liebe Frau”). We only visited the latter of these, which is presided by a rather magnificent Baroque altar.
Where to eat in Bamberg
Schlenkerla Rauchbierbrauerei
Dominikanerstraße 6
96049 Bamberg
Bamberg is known for its smoked beer (Rauchbier) and no better place to taste it than its oldest and most renowned brewery, Schlenkerla.
This beer house was reportedly established in 1405 and it still produces smoked beer in the traditional way (using malt that has been dried over burning beechwood instead of hot air, a process which infuses the grain with a distinctive smokiness before fermentation). It is served in two versions: dark and light, with the latter being seasonal and available only in spring and summer.
So, if you wish to get the full Bamberg experience, make sure you stop by Schlenkerla to try it, even if you are not a regular beer drinker, as it is my case.
What’s more, since it is also a restaurant, you can have your beer together with another of the local specialities: stuffed onions (“Bamberger Zwiebel”). These are filled with pork meat and served with a side of mashed potato and gravy. It’s quite a filling dish!
By the way, the beer you see here is Schlenkerla’s Pale Lager, which is a special edition beer that the restaurant offers exclusively on “Beer Day”, April 23, and while supplies last. No smoked malt us used in its brewing process, however, it’s brewed in the same copper kettles and with the same yeast as the traditional “Rauchbier” in order to give it a slight smoky flavour.
Grüner Markt and other Bamberg specialities
Bamberg’s downtown stretches onto the eastern bank of the Reignetz. And while this is still, technically, part of the old town, the streets here have a more modern feel, with Grüner Markt (“Vegetables Market”) and Maximilien Platz acting as buzzing commercial hubs of the city.
Grüner Markt, in particular, holds a street market for produce where it is possible to find some other local specialities, like the white aspargus and a special type of small crescent-shaped potatoes called “Bamberger Hörnla”.
Maximilien Platz (below), in turn, is the center of the city’s modern administration.
Yet another local speciality in Bamberg, this one in the bakery section, are the “Bamberg Hörnchen”, a type of croissants which are more curved than the regular ones and thinner at the center.
By the way, if you are into beer, before heading back to the station, you can stop at “Die Bierothek”, a shop where you can find specialty beer from Bamberg (including the famous smoked one) and the rest of Franconia (if you like beer, stay tuned for the next installment of this series, Forchheim, since it will feature plenty of it!).
If you enjoyed this post, check out the next stage of my Franconian trip: Forchheim and its underground beer cellars!
Two great unique hotels with character in Berlin
I have been traveling to Berlin quite a few times in the last few months and, for good or for bad, I have had a chance to stay at quite a few hotels all over the city. It is rare when to come across properties that really stand out, but every now and then I come across some true gems which I think it is worth sharing.
To be clear, this is not a post about Berlin’s main tourist attractions, there are plenty of other blogs that can provide that, but to share some details about what I think are two of the best options to stay in Berlin right now at price points that are, I think, not particularly extravagant for the typical business traveler.
A recent trip to the German capital offered me the chance to experience two greatly located hotels which I will proceed to describe next:
Radisson Collection Berlin
The PostHouse Berlin
This post may contain affiliate links. If you book or buy something through them, I earn a small commission, at no extra cost to you. It's one of the ways I keep Places of Charm going. Thank you for your support.
I would like to thank also Radisson for facilitating the stay at this specific property. All opinions are my own.
A review of the Radisson Collection Hotel Berlin
The Radisson Collection Hotel Berlin is truly a landmark hotel. It is located in what must be one of the most prime pieces of real estate of any hotel, of any category in Berlin, right on the banks of the river Spree, next to Museum Insel and the opposite the Berliner Dom.
The building itself is also quite remarkable, a compact and solid, building with a large indoor courtyard that is dominated by a rather impressive central structure that simulates a sort of giant tree.
The overall aesthetic is modern and elegant throughout, but with a rather cozy vibe which is rather different to that of other more, let’s say, “classical” luxury establishments.
In fact, all around the aforementioned central trunk, in the lobby area is a mixed bar/restaurant-library/reading room-workspace area, complete with a fully stocked library (interestingly, with what appears to be a rather large Scandinavian book section, which possibly reflects Radisson’s own roots!)
This somehow round floor plan makes it possible for all these different areas of the lobby to be conveniently compartimentalized while remaining within the same open plan. The reception area is also somehow segregated from this more innerpart (albeit still public) area of the hotel.
Access to the rooms is through the glass lifts which make for quite a scenic up and down the building. Access to each of the floors is also rather grand, with a large open space in a rather modern and harmonious style, including the colour palette, and local touches of decor.
The rooms at the Radisson Collection Berlin
As you may have already guessed, the rooms follow more or less the same contemporary style and no-nonsense approach to comfort. In this case, my room, located on Floor 11 (one of the highest) west side had also a special “surprise” that I will soon disclose, further down this post.
As you can see, the rooms have wooden flooring (another Scandi design touch), which I tend to prefer.
A few other details I liked about the room: note the large amount of storage space, both for luggage and also to layout clothes and personal items. Also, as is the norm in this category of establishment, there’s a coffee machine and some mineral water waiting for the guest.
The two-piece bathroom is also pretty impressive: very modern throughout and with a power shower. Bathrobes are also provided, since the hotel, as we shall soon see further down this post, has also a small indoor pool and a spa area.
The hotel offers also a whole range of additional ancillary services, from a choice of different pillow types to laundry, all through the electronic console which is accessible through the room’s work desk.
Best hotel room views in Berlin?
And now, the “surprise” that I mentioned earlier, because if this was an Instagram account, the moment of opening the room’s small balcony would be the time to do that typical influencer gesture of covering your mouth with the palm of your hand, in awe of the sights! The picture below is the unfiltered picture of what I could see from my room. Does it get better than this in Berlin?
And, for good measure, this is the view from the bed itself! That’s what I would call a central location!
Btw, in this picture you can appreciate the little balcony, which makes it easy to enjoy the views in full, since you can actually open the doors, a particularly suitable feature during the Berlin spring and summer when the weather can be quite balmy in the German capital! Btw, when that’s the case, you can just spend the afternoon watching the boats on the river Spree pass just underneath your balcony.
Also in the room is a work desk: the right size for the traveling professional and with plenty of natural light, as you can see!
Gym, Spa and Wellness at the Radisson Collection Berlin
As I mentioned earlier, there is a fitness and wellness center in the hotel. To be fair, the facilities are small, but they have pretty much all you would possibly need during a urban city break.
The fitness and wellness center is in the basement and accessible directly from the rooms through the lifts. There is a small pool, more for relaxation than exercises, tbh, as well as separate cardio, yoga, and weight rooms.
Eating at the Radisson Collection Berlin
The hotel has, of course, a restaurant. It is located on the ground floor on the west side of the property, which means that it has views of the river bank. The decor is aligned with the modern-cozy style of the rest of the property.
I had the chance to have my buffet breakfast there and it didn’t disappoint. The breakfast offering was predominantly continental, but with a fair amount of choices. This being Germany, the bakery section was particularly impressive!
So, overall, a very well rounded experience with the added touch that, as a guest, you have a very good chance of getting one of the very best panoramic views of the city of Berlin included in the fare (which, I may say, at this property tend to be in a very reasonable range for Berlin standards and adjusting for quality and location!), a true gem.
A review of The Posthouse Berlin Hotel - Potsdamer Platz
This was another find during a recent visit to Berlin, another real gem, offering great value at a prime location. The Posthouse Berlin Potsdamer Platz – Leonardo Limited Edition is a very modern hotel, which belongs to the Italian chain Leonardo.
It has the additional allure of being located in a historical building which once housed Berlin’s main postal distribution center, something that you can kind of guess looking at architecture of the place. In this case, as we shall soon see, Leonardo has fully embraced this truly unique character of the building when it comes to marketing this property.
While it is not located right next to the city’s top landmark, like the previous hotel we have seen, The Posthouse is also incredibly well located from the point of view of its centrality in the city. It is located within walking distance (10min) of Potsdamer Platz, right at the core of the Government District and pretty much on top (give or take a few dozens of meters) of where the Berlin Wall used to be. It has also within 5minutes walk of the Anhalter Banhof S-Bahn station and the Möckernbrücke U-Bahn station (in addition to the aforementioned Potsdamer Platz, which is also a major railway station).
What’s more the area is very walkable and safe, with broad avenues and lots of hotels, restaurants, shops and museums in its vicinity.
The rooms at The Posthouse Berlin
The rooms are large and very modern and cozy, with a mix of coulours that is warm and sophisticated at the same time. The little touches of colour make the whole ensemble more lively preventing it from being too “neutral”, while keeping the whole subdued.
The bathroom, rather large, also super modern and impeccably clean.
There is a little work desk, also very stylish.
On top of it, a little electronic console provides information and access to services, doing away with the old-school service directory folders.
Some more details that make The Posthouse Berlin a great hotel
A couple of additional details here: lots of space for luggage (you may have noted in the pics above that there is also a rather long bank opposite the bed) and even to sit down to take your shows on or off.
The windows open into a very calm street next to a large green area. In fact, the hotel is located in a rather nice area, with several pedestrian streets around and some shops.
As mentioned earlier, Leonardo has developed a whole brand identity for The Posthouse which is pervasive throughout the property. I particularly liked the very elegant way in which it is applied to all the small items you find in the room and in other parts of the hotel.
The Posthouse has also its restaurant, which shares the same ground floor space as the lobby and reception area. The different spaces are blended seamlessly and get plenty of natural light through the large windows that open onto the street on one side and onto a very large open courtyard on the other.
A couple of other details I liked in the lobby area:
A snacks and water station which guests can access at all hours. Even if the hotel staff renew the bottles of mineral water in the room, its location on the way to the lifts makes for a very convenient stopping point to get some refreshments on the way to and from the rooms. Btw, note also how the hotel decor takes into account the postal history of the place.
When you come into The Posthouse you will notice a bicycle parking. These bicycles are actually available for rental by the day, you just need to ask at the reception, here below you can see the prices.
So, what’s our take: this hotel offers also amazing value for any visitor to Berlin, whether for business or leisure. As was the case of the Radisson Collection Berlin, The Posthouse Berlin Postadamer Platz offers and amazing combination of modern, spacious and pleasant facilities, impeccable service and prices that are truly hard to believe for what you get!
Two days in Timisoara: what to do and what to see
Timisoara is the capital of the Banat, a historical region of Western Romania with a rather rich and interesting history.
Perhaps no other factor has contributed more to shaping the city than its location atop one of Europe’s civilizational fault lines.
The Ottomans conquered the city in 1522 and ruled it for nearly two centuries. During that time, Timisoara was one of the westernmost cities of their Empire. In 1716, the tables turned and it was the Austrians that took the city, transformed it from the ground up and made it one of their easternmost fortresses.
Later came the modern state of Romania and, of course, the Communist period under Ceaucescu, in the downfall of which Timisoara was to play a star role.
The city that most visitors see today, though, is the product of the Habsburg era. When the Austrians, led by the famous military commander Eugene de Savoy, took over the city, they soon started an ambitious program of engineering works.
In fact, to call it a “transformation” would be an understatement, because the Habsburgs basically built a new city over the foundations of the Ottoman-era one. The marshes around the old city were drained and a new urban grid was overlaid on the existing one, making way for the broad avenues and squares and Baroque buildings that make Timisoara such an architectural gem today. The city was also enclosed by star-shaped fortified enceinte containing multiple bastions.
Like many other cities in this part of Europe, Timisoara became also a cultural melting pot, with a population that, in addition to Romanians, has historically included also substantial numbers of Hungarians, Germans, Serbians and Jews. This shows in the fact that there are no less than three different cathedrals (Romanian and Serbian Orthodox and Catholic) in the historical centre of Timisoara, as well as a synagogue.
In this post I list the main points of interest in the old town plus some other things to do if visiting Timisoara, mostly connected with the role that the city played in the start of the Romanian Revolution of 1989, which ended up with the downfall of Ceaucescu’s regime and the democratization of Romania and its ultimate entry into the EU a few years later.
So what to see when visiting central Timisoara?
A walk through the Old town: from Piata Unirii to Piata Victoriei
Romanian Orthodox Cathedral
Banks of the Bega River
Maria-Theresa Bastion
Memorial of the Revolution
Museum of the Communist Consumer
This post may contain affiliate links. If you book or buy something through them, I earn a small commission, at no extra cost to you. It's one of the ways I keep Places of Charm going. Thank you for your support.
Top things to see in Timisoara’s historical centre
The historical centre of Timisoara is small, orderly and compact. It is structured along a number of large monumental squares linked by an orthogonal grid of cobblestone-paved pedestrian streets.
To be fair, the area of historical interest is not large and you can see most of it in a morning even if walking at a leisurely pace. If you allocate some time as well to visit the museums and enjoying the many cafés and restaurants in town, the two days that we I used as a reference to build this itinerary turn out to be quite optimal.
Piata Libertatii
This is one of the main squares in Timisoara. Piata Libertatii (“Freedom Square”) and, while it lacks the grand splendour of the nearby Piata Unirii (there are in fact, several buildings that are undergoing renovation), it is a lively square and a major crossroads where there is always movement of people.
It is also at one end of the Vasile Alecsandri avenue (depicted below right) the main commercial axis in the old town of Timisoara.
Piata Unirii
Piata Unirii (“Union Square”) is the main landmark in Timisoara’s old town: a large, open square which, in addition to the Austrian-built Catholic cathedral, contains also the city’s art museum as well as several beautiful and colourful historical buildings which line all its sides.
When the sun shines it offers an absolutely glorious panorama.
When walking through the city you can see that the historical centre has been painstakingly restored and, indeed, some buildings (including the one I stayed in, more on this further below in this post) are still undergoing a thorough renovation.
The public space has also been fitted with quite a few pieces of urban art and contemporary sculptures, as well as informational panels in both Romanian and English. There is also a QR code you can scan to get more in-depth info on your mobile phone, although, sadly there was some technical glitch that prevented the page from opening when I tried it on mine.
Timisoara seems to be a city well aware of its past, and it is also possible to find quite a few plates and signs marking important historical spots, whether its Romanian statesman Ioan Cuza or Eugene of Savoy, or the emplacements of buildings that are long gone, like the Ottoman hammam (roughly where present day Piata Libertatii now stands).
Another piece of relatively well preserved (and now restored) historical Timisoara is the Maria-Theresa Bastion, which was part of the Austrian fortifications, and is just a couple of minutes on foot from Piata Unirii. This is now the home of the National Museum of the Banat, but it was closed at the time of my visit.
Piata Victoriei and around
Piata Victoriei (“Victory Square”) is the third major square that gives shape and character to downtown Timisoara. Unlike the other two, this one has a more modern flair.
In fact, it is more than a square, because it transitions into an elongated gardened boulevard that ends in front of the Orthodox Metropolitan Cathedral.
At the opposite end of the boluevard from the cathedral is the National Opera House, a very distinctive building the façade of which is adorned by a large arch and a colonnade.
Piata Victoriei was a major scenario of the 1989 Romanian Revolution, with the balcony of the National Opera House acting as an impromptu gathering place for the revolutionaries. In fact, the imprint of those days is kept well alive to this day.
In addition to the musem and memorials that remembers that moment (more on this further below), it is possible to find reminders of those epic moments throughout the city, like the grafitti alluding to the 35th anniversary of those events, to the entire text of the “Proclamation of Timisoara” being proudly exhibited in Piata Victoriei.
As in Cluj-Napoca, the she-wolf statue acts as a reminder of Romania’s links to Ancient Rome
The Romanian Orthodox Metropolitan Cathedral of Timisoara is another landmark of interest in this part of the city, with a very distinctive architectural style which mixes Byzantine and local influences.
The cathedral stands at the edge of the historical town. Right next to it starts a series of gardens which run all along the banks of the Bega river and act as a nexus with the modern part of the town.
These ring of parks cover the area where the city’s outer defensive bastions used to stand. If the weather is nice, you can expect them to be packed with families strolling around or with young people having parties in the terraces and boat-restaurants.
While most of Timisoara’s modern parts are rather unremarkable from the point of view of architecture (several decades of Communist dictatorship left its urban mark), the area immediately to the south of the Bega river has some avenues that are not without interest.
Here you can see how in the early years of the 20th C. Timisoara was a growing city that expanded well beyond its original kernel.
Timisoara must have been a really thriving city in the late 19th and early 20th C. as shown by the fact that it was one of the first in Europe to introduce a number of public services that were truly pioneering at the time.
It was one of the first cities in Europe to have a horse-drawn tram network in 1867 (their electrically-powered successors still plod its streets, as you can see in the picture below) and the very first city to introduce electric street lamps in 1884!
The post-war Communist regime also tried to introduce its own version of “modernity” but with far less pleasing aesthetical results. Fortunately the historical perimeter of Timisoara was relatively untouched by this branch of “architecture”.
The Revolution Memorial
This is a must-visit in Timisoara, and a nice way to get a peek into the history of the city during the Cold War years, when Romania was under the totalitarian rule of Communist dictator Nicolae Ceaucescu.
The museum is, I think, run by non-profit, and the facilities are somehow basic (if quite centrally located just north of Piata Unirii) but it does a good job of conveying what life was like at that time and the sequence of events which, starting in Timisoara, led to the downfall of Ceaucescu’s regime in December 1989.
The Romanian flag with the Communist coat of arms cut off from its middle became the emblem of the 1989 Revolution. Unlike in other countries of the Eastern Bloc, the ousting of the Communist regime was a rather bloody affair, first due to government repression and later on due to the ensuing chaos.
This is a historical episode, by the way, which I covered also in my post about Bucharest, where some of the key developments of this story took place. Timisoara, however, is where everything started and today the city takes just pride in this fact!
Museum of Communist Consumers
If you didn’t have enough of Cold War Romania during the visit to the Memorial of the Revolution, you can also take a stroll to the Museum of Communist Consumers (“Muzeul Consumatorului Comunist“).
In fact, to call it a “museum” is a bit of a stretch, since it is essentially a bar which, in a rather ingenious marketing ploy, has transformed its basement into a makeshift repository filled with ordinary objects and memorabilia from the Communist period.
To be fair, there is not entrance fee, you just walk down the stairs and are free to roam the rooms (you may have to look for the electric switch as you walk into the next room, just as you would in a normal house). As mentioned, this is not an ordinary museum, so don’t expect any signage or audioguide.
If you are interested in that era, it is not without interest, if only because of the very original way to present the “collections”. If you were born before the 90s some of the items in the collection may not look entirely unfamiliar either!
In any case, since the bar-museum is located some 15 minutes walk south of the Bega river, it is a nice excuse to get out of the old town, as well. It’s a nice walk if the weather is nice and the bar has a terrace where you can sit down to replenish energies before continuing the sightseeing.
Where to eat in Timisoara
When arriving in Timisoara, one of my goals was to try some local Banat specialities and, I must say, that proved quite more challenging than I expected. There is no shortage of Italian and Asian restaurants and burger joints in Timisoara, but not really that many Banat or Romanian cuisine restaurants! In fact, I think I didn’t fully succeed at finding them, although I present here a couple of options which may be reasonably close and provide, I think, good value.
Paso Local Cuisine
Strada Eugeniu de Savoya 6B, Timișoara
https://www.pasorestaurant.com
This is a small restaurant located at the heart of the old town, providing good service and value for money in addition to a somehow lively atmosphere.
The speciality here are the meat dishes (although they do have some fish too) and, in particular, the roasted meat dishes that are so typical of the Balkans and southeastern Europe.
They only had one dessert choice, but it was pretty tasty.
Restaurant Tinecz
Calea Aradului 51, 300254 Timișoara
This restaurant is a bit further from the historical centre, so ideally you would need to take a cab (the Bolt ride from the Piata Unirii costs something like €3). I went to try it since I saw it had good reviews and a semblance of local cuisine.
This is, in fact, the case, although it combines some dishes with a local flavour, like the “sarmale” (below), which were excellent and pretty substantious, with more, let’s say, international cuisine.
The service was pretty good throughout, as well.
Coffee and pastries in Timisoara’s historical centre
If there is one thing I liked on the culinary front, though, it is the pastries. Here below are three places that I tried. All three are within 20 meters of each other on Vasile Alecsandri street next to Piata Unirii.
Patisserie-Cafetarie Prospero
This is, apparently, a local chain with three or four brances around town. It offers a nice range of sweet and savoury pastries and good coffee.
A’Clair by Alma Dulce
This place represents a totally different approach to coffee and bakery.
In fact it is more like a high-end patisserie offering some coffee as well.
The flagship product here is a sort of elongated sweet cake filled in the middle with cream of different flavours.
While there is not place to sit in the fancy, but rather small, interior, it does have sitting outside, on the street.
In line with the type of stylish experience it aims to offer, coffee here is served in some very original designer terracotta cups.
Service was great throughout.
Select Bakery
This is just opposite the aforementioned “Prospero” and it offers a similar selection of pastries. You can order to take away right from a little window on the side of the shop.
I particularly enjoyed this sort of triangular pastry, which is filled with a sort of cottage cheese and served warm. In fact, I liked it so much that I went back there for more the next day, and would have done the same if I had remained in town for longer!
Where to stay in Timisoara
City Park Apartments
Strada Carol Telbisz 4, Timișoara
This place was great value and in absolutely convenient location. It is located in one of the large old blocks next to Piata Libertatii. The place looks completely dilapidated on the outside, but the apartments inside are modern and renovated.
The place consists of a number of renovated apartments located in one of the wings of what I think must have been some old military barracks or something like that.
At the time of my arrival the place was pretty much a construction site. I guess the place will look completely different in a relatively short period of time, on account of its really prime location, since it is literally a two minute walk away from the main commercial axis in the historical centre.
So, don’t be fooled by first impressions when you come in (the check in process is fully automated, with the property sending you the codes to access the different parts of the building), the apartments inside are in good state, renovated and are very spacious. There is also a small, equipped kitchen, and some household supplies in an antechamber. There is also an espresso machine with some available capsules.
When I arrived there was no warm water, but this was fixed in a matter of minutes when I emailed the property and they sent me instructions about how to reset the heater, which was in an adjacent room.
There is high speed wifi as well.
Getting to and from Timisoara
Finally, before departing, a word about logistics and how to get to and from Timisoara.
The fact is that with low-cost airlines like Wizz Air flying to Timisoara from many points in Europe, never has been so easy to explore this beautiful city.
The airport is small but very modern and functional and it costs less than €10 to get there from the center with Bolt.
This ride hailing app is possibly the best way to move around if you don’t want to get messed up with public transport schedules and the like, and it is also not very expensive. In fact, if you stay near the old town you possibly won’t need transportation within the city at all.
If you are traveling from other parts of Romania, like Bucharest or Cluj-Napoca, you may look also at the train or the bus. In such case I suggest you check this website for schedules and bookings.
48 hours in Avignon and Nîmes: what to see, what to do
The south of France is so rich in sights and history that at, if you find yourself driving around the area on a sunny day, it is easy to feel overwhelmed by the amount of choices that present themselves.
There are, however, some sites that really stand out (and have even been recognized as such by UNESCO, which has granted them World Heritage Site status) and fortunately, several of them are relatively close to each other, so it is perfectly possible to visit quite a handful of them in a couple of days if you have access to a car.
So, what to see and what to do if you if you are traveling in the area roughly delimited between Nîmes to the west, Avignon to the east, Châteauneuf-du-Pape to the north and Aiguesmortes and the Camargue to the south? We’ll see it now!
In this post I am going to try do just that: describe an itinerary that includes, I think, some of the most impressive and interesting places to visit in the lower Rhône Valley and the region where Provence meets Occitanie. These are representative of a diverse range of historical eras and have some varied landscapes, as well.
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Visiting the Palais des Papes in Avignon
Our itinerary starts in front of the imposing ramparts of the Palais des Papes, the old papal fortress in Avignon. This small provençal town was for quite a few decades in the 14th C., the residence of a number of Popes, which made it, de facto, the centre of the Catholic world.
Pope Clement V, who was French, relocated to Avignon from Rome in 1309. Apparently in an attempt to be closer to the French court. After him, successive popes stayed in Avignon and kept enlarging their residence and making ever more majestic.
The Papal Palace in Avignon thus, evolved into one of Europe’s largest medieval fortresses, made even more impressive by the fact that parts of it are built on top of naked rock (see the picture below).
The Pope returned to Rome in 1377, although Avignon remained part of the Papal estates and, in fact, it didn’t, join France until after the French Revolution in 1791!
It is advisable to buy the entry ticket in advance online, since there is a slot system for visits. To be fair, we booked quite at the last minute didn’t have any issue finding available slots, but I can not guarantee this is always the case, particularly during busy holiday periods!
It is also possible to buy a ticket that combines several of the town’s historical sites, such as the palace, its gardens (which we were closed at the time of our visit and, therefore, not included here) and the bridge over the Rhône (the famous “Pont d’Avignon”). Prices range between €12 and €17 approximately depending on the option you take.
If arriving by car, the best option is to leave the car at one of the several underground paid parkings near the Palace. The closest one is just underneath the palace’s rock and it is very aptly called “Parking du Palais des Papes”. If you spend half a day touring the castle and walking around the old town you would possibly pay something on the order of €10 or so, but it saves a lot of hassle.
Allocate at least a couple of hours to the Palais des Papes, because the place is huge.
I recommend taking the audioguide since, in addition to having nice and comprehensive explanations, it comes in the form of a tablet with augmented reality effects. It allows you to see how the different parts of the palace-fortress would have looked like in its heyday by pointing out at specific locations.
The visit, by the way, combines indoor and outdoor spaces and it is even possible to climb to one of the fortress towers for a view of the town.
Sometimes there are also some temporary art exhibits throughout the palace (like is the case of these giant suspended crowns in the picture below).
“Sur le Pont d’Avignon”
A visit to Avignon wouldn’ be complete without visiting the bridge over the river Rhône, the “Pont d’Avignon” that gives its title to the famous folk song.
The “Pont d’Avignon” is a real thing and it was built during the Middle Ages. Besides its function connecting the two banks of the Rhône, it also acted as a checkpoint to tax goods and trade and move upstream from the Mediterranean and downstream from Bourgogne and northern France.
The bridge only makes it half way across the river nowadays, since part of it was destroyed by a flood. This was apparently a regular occurence, but for some reason they stopped rebuilding it at some point.
There is a small museum at the head of the bridge which explains not just the history of the bridge and the importance of the Rhône as a major trading artery in the past, but also sheds some light into Medieval bridge-building techniques.
It is also possible to walk over the bridge and, in fact, it is from the far end of the bridge that you can get what are, possibly, the best panoramic views of the monumental ensemble of the Palais des Papes. so, make sure you include this in your visit as well!
Wine tasting in Chateaunêuf-du-Pape
The village of Châteauneuf-du-Pape (which is named like this because the Popes had a summer residence there during the period they resided in Avignon) is home to one of France’s most prestigious wine “terroirs”.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape is an AOC (Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée) within the French and European system of geographical designations for origin for wine (and other types of produce) and a particularly renowned one, covering both red and white wines.
According to oenologists, the quality of Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines has a lot to do with the combination of sunny southern climate, the strong winds that often blow down the orographical funnel that is the Rhône valley and the soil of the area, which is peppered by a type of rounded rocks that were, once upon a time, underneath a large glacier that covered this region.
Now, I am sure a dedicated wine conoisseurs could spend a whole week in Châteauneuf-du-Pape from one cellar to the next, tasting all the different labels. We certainly didn’t have this luxury (neither do I claim to be a wine expert) and I guess that this is also the case of most of our readers (even if possibly many of you may appreciate a nice glass of wine from time to time), so we selected just one winery for a quick glimpse into the world of Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines.
Visiting Maison Brotte in Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Avenue Pierre de Luxembourg, 84230 Châteauneuf-du-Pape
This is one of the largest wineries in Châteauneuf-du-Pape and it runs a small museum dedicated to wine-making in the region as well as the history of the Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée and its natural environment. The visit includes a rather comprehensive audioguide itinerary and ends with a tasting of half a dozen local wines.
It is advised to book online in advance. The ticket costs something like €10 per person, give or take, and includes the tasting.
From Avignon to Châteauneuf-du-Pape is about 15km or so, about 20 minutes by car. Maison Brotte is right on the main road leading into the village and it has its own parking space for visitors. So, if you have the time, definitely worth a go.
Visiting the Pont du Gard
An itinerary between Avignon and Nîmes must include, of course, a detour to visit the famous Pont du Gard, one of the most impressive and best preserved Roman aqueducts to be found anywhere in the world.
This UNESCO World Heritage Site can be accessed from both banks of the river Gard. In either case, the car will only get you to about a kilometre or so from the actual aqueduct.
We approached it from the north side and there is a very large parking there and an interpretation center. Entry to the monument grounds is €8. I guess this is all the same on the south side.
A network of footpaths take you all the way to the aqueduct. You can even walk on it.
This is a very spectacular piece of Roman architecture by any consideration. We also got there at dusk when there was hardly anyone around, which made the visit even more impressive!
What to do in Nîmes
Next stop in our itinerary and our base for the night was Nîmes.
This is a very pleasant French provincial city which surprised me positively. I had heard, of course, about its Roman heritage (the city was called Nemausus in Roman times and the Pont du Gard was actually built it to keep it supplied with water), but Nîmes also has a beautiful and very walkable centre with some interesting architecture.
It is also a convenient place for an overnight stop, since, as we shall soon see, it has some great value options to eat and sleep and it is also quite easy to move around.
Visit the Arena of Nîmes
The roman amphitheatre (“Arènes de Nîmes”) is the jewel of the crown here. It is one of the best preserved (perhapsh THE best preserved) Roman arenas in the world, to the point that it is still used regularly nowadays for all sorts of spectacles. It is also super centrally located, so you can’t miss it!
Now, if you have visited other similar buildings in other parts of the former Roman Empire, you know what it is about. Nevertheless, it makes for an interesting visit, because most of the original structure is still standing you can roam through most parts of it, including the top rows, which good views of both the inside of the Arena and the city around.
The audioguide is also included with the ticket, by the way.
Visiting Roman Nîmes and the Maison Carrée
Nîmes is also home to another exceptionally preserved Roman structure, the temple known as “La Maisón Carrée”, which is also right in the middle of the old town. Besides the beauty of its proportions and the postcard-perfect look, it also has a small museum inside.
In fact there are quite a few Roman monuments in Nîmes in addition to the two presented here.
For example, there is also an old Roman defensive tower (the “Tour Magne”) at the northern edge of the city center, as well as a large archaeological museum located next to the Arena. The latter, known as “Musée de la Romanité” is housed in a contemporary landmark building next to the Amphitheatre. We didn’t have time to visit it, but read very good reviews.
It is possible to purchase a combined ticket which lets you visit all the sites for an advantageous price (although it is also possible to buy individual tickets, as well, if you don’t plan to visit them all).
Walking in Nîmes historical center
But besides the Roman monuments, Nîmes has also a rather beautiful, even grand, downtown.
Parts of it had the typical French “Republican” civic architecture. Large majestic buildings in neoclassical style and large open space are found in the area adjacent to the Arena (including a rather impressive Great War memorial with thousands of names on it).
The old town has a more intricate maze of small streets, with plenty of shops, cafés and small hotels.
Here are quite a few details from the morning walk through downtown Nîmes, from the crocodile that adorns one of the fountains in the old town, to some touches of contemporary architecture that mix with the more traditional harmony of the old town.
Where to eat in Nîmes
Wine Bar Restaurant Cheval Blanc
1 Pl. des Arènes, 30000 Nîmes, France
https://www.winebar-lechevalblanc.com
This is a cozy French restaurant located right in front of the Roman amphitheatre.
It features an artsy-bohemian decor with lots of motifs related to bullfighting, which is an activity which has a long tradition in Nîmes.
At Cheval Blanc you will find, essentially, French cuisine specialities. The food was rather good overall, it didn’t disappoint, it was exactly what we were looking for. You can see our choices here.
Service was a bit slow and at times the staff appeared a bit inexperienced, although to be fair they strived to make up for this by being extra nice and they were very diligent whenever we had some query or request.
Extra points for the desserts, which were amazing!
Where to stay in Nîmes
Appart'City Collection Nîmes Arènes
1 Bd de Bruxelles, 30000 Nîmes, France
This is an amazingly good value option to stay in Nîmes. It is as centrally located as it gets: just opposite the Roman Arena. and right next to the city’s main post office.
These serviced apartments (a hotel in all but name), occupies a grand, almost palatial, building which may have been a bank or something like this in the past, or at least it looks the part.
Staff at the reception were also quite nice in giving us very good advice for our visit downtown. It is also possible to park for free evenings and weekends on the nearby streets (there is a large paid car park under the adjacent square).
The room was huge! In fact it was more like a proper apartment with several differentiated areas: bedroom, living room-kitchen, with a large sofa that can be turned into a king size bed, bathroom and a sort of elongated studio and storage area as annex of the main bedroom.
I don’t know if all the rooms are that large, but it was truly spacious! And all of this cost around €100.
What to see in Aigues-Mortes
So, if you are in Nîmes and have a car, you may want to drive down to the Camargue, the marshy area at the mouth of the river Rhône.
The Camargue is, in fact, quite a large region that occupies most of the coastline between Montpellier and Marseille. To properly experience it, you would need to spend several days there, but, if you are short of time, you can make a quick stop at the walled medieval town of Aigues-Mortes, some 40 kilometres south of Nîmes.
Aigues-Mortes was a departure port for the Crusades in the 13th C. You can see, from the size of its walls that this was a place of quite some importance in the Middle Ages. In fact, Aigues-Mortes has managed to preserve, to a large extent, its medieval characters, being still to this day completely enclosed by the very impressive medieval walls.
As its name implies (“Dead Waters” in Occitan language), Aigues-Mortes is surrounded by water and swamps pretty much on all sides. It is also pretty close to, but not directly on the sea shore. There is a canal on one side of the old town and a lagoon and salt pans on the other one.
This lagoon turns pink at certain times of the year (not at the time of our visit), making for some amazing photo opportunities, although, to get the best angles I think you need to get to quite some distance from the ramparts!
As you would expect in such a heritage-rich city, its centre is all pretty much pedestrianized (there are paid car park right outside the city gates), and while there are not major landmarks standing out within the walls, the beauty of the place is the harmony of the ensemble.
Where to eat in Aiguesmortes
Restaurant La Citadelle
10 Pl. Saint-Louis, 30220 Aigues-Mortes
https://restaurantlacitadelle.shop
This restaurant is located on the main square of Aiguesmortes (Place Saint Louis).
We picked this place up a bit randomly (it was one of the few places that were open at the time of our visit) and it turned out to be quite a find!
It has two areas, a large spacious hall inside and a terrace (it is also a café) which I am sure it is rather nice when the weather is warm and sunny.
It is a rather unpretentious place overall, but here you can enjoy some local specialities, excellent seafood and great service.
A day in Málaga, what to do and what to see
Despite being the gateway to one of Europe’s top tourist regions, the city of Málaga is, I think, often overlooked as a tourist destinations on its very own.
Of the millions of visitors that pass through Málaga airport every year, only a relatively small percentage venture into downtown Málaga itself, the rest heading straight to the many seaside resorts and golf courses that dot this narrow strip of land between the Mediterranean and the Penibetic mountains, a stretch of coastline that has come to be known as the Costa del Sol.
I must confess that I was more or less guilty of the same sin, since my previous visit to Málaga, decades ago, had just been a quick ride through town on the way to the airport. The 2026 edition of the eMobility World Congress provided the opportunity to change that and to explore a bit more of the city. And, while it is true that most of Málaga’s suburbs look a bit uninviting, as is typical of cities that grew fast during that dark era of architecture that were the 1970s, the city centre has, fortunately, preserved some truly charming corners.
In the following sections I am trying to sketch the top things to do and to see in Málaga if you are on a short visit. The good news is that Málaga’s historical center is quite compact, so you can go quite a lot even if, as it was my case, you are truly time-constrained.
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A walk through Málaga’s historical town
Most of the sights cluster within or around the old town, which borders also the port area and the hill where two old fortresses stand (the Alcazaba and Gibralfaro castle). The good news is that most of this area is pedestrianised, so this makes for a rather pleasant walk between the different sights.
Calle Marqués de Larios
This is Málaga’s main commercial axis, which you can see below. It has a rather elegant pavement made of these large white stone slabs (although the red carpet is a temporary addition for the city’s film festival).
The street is named after the Marquis of Larios, which was a prominent local industrialist in the 19th Century. The Larios family played a very important role in Málaga during most of that century and held sway over large swathes of the local economy. Their palace was located right where the “Equitativa” building stands today, the very prominent 1950s rationalist building that takes center stage in the picture below.
This building, which used to be the local headquarters of an American insurance firm, has since been transformed into a boutique hotel, the “Soho Equitativa”, which I will review further down this post.
So, this street, “Calle Marqués de Larios” is where many of the well known consumer brands have set up shop (I read that at some point it was one of the most expensive locations for retailers in Spain). It was a bit rainy during the time I started my visit (so much for the “Costa del Sol” famous year-round sunshine!) but this gave the streets a particular patina that I kind of liked.
While Málaga hasn’t been immune to the sort of touristization and banalization that has afflicted most European historical centers, it is still possible to find some truly authentic retail outlets!
Málaga Cathedral
One of the highlights in historical Málaga is, of course, the cathedral. This one is particularly impressive because of its size!
Roman Theater
Málaga is a really ancient city! One of the oldest in Europe, in fact. Málaga appears to have been founded by the Phoenicians some 500 years before the Romans arrived in the Iberian Peninsula. Rome, however, did arrive in due turn and and the city continued to prosper, changing its name from Phoenician “Malaka” to Latin “Malaca”. One of the most visible landmarks from that era is the ancient theater (“Teatro Romano”). It has its own small dedicated museum, but it was closed at the time I visited. Nevertheless, you don’t need any ticket to admire the ruins.
To be fair, it is not as big as the Ancient theaters in places like Myra and Amman, but its locaation at the foot of the old Islamic-style fortress of the Alcazaba fortress, with its medieval walls, make it quite scenic. It is also right in the middle of the old town.
Right next door, between the Roman Theatre and the Cathedral is the Málaga Museum (Museo de Málaga), which is housed in a neoclassical former customs house. Now, I didn’t have time to visit the museum, something that I kind of regret, since I head good things about it. So, I included it here so that you don’t forget to add it to your list if you have the time. It has basically to main collections: 19th Century Spanish paintings and Ancient archaeology from the local area.
I did manage to admire the exuberant palm grove that surrounds the building, though!
The Alcazaba of Málaga
If you have to choose only one place to visit in Málaga, this is it!
The Alcazaba is a former fortress-palace that for centuries has dominated the city from its hilltop position. Now, there is another castle even higher up on the same ridge, the castle of Gibralfaro.
The two were connected by a narrow walled enceinte, now in ruins. You can visit both nowadays, although you need to do so separately (you can purchase a joint ticket, though).
Since I had limited time I opted to visit the Alcazaba only, which I think has most to offer to the visitor. The higher Gibralfaro fortress has perhaps slightly better views, but you get a pretty nice view from the Alcazaba as well, and it saves you the climb uphill. It’s just a matter of prioritization.
The Málaga Alcazaba as we know it today is mainly a product of the Al-Andalus era, when Spain was under Islamic rule. The foundations of the current castle were laid out in the 11th Century, but the complex has suffered modifications throughout the centuries.
By the 19th Century there was even a whole residential neighbourhood on top of the palace ruins and some plans were drawn to remove completely what was left of the old fortification.
Fortunately those plans didn’t materialize and, in fact, by the early 20th Century, with changing attitudes towards the preservation of historical heritage the Alcazaba was declared a legally-protected monument and a process of archaeological investigation, restoration (and in some cases even reconstruction!) started.
Málaga’s Alcazaba is, in some ways, like a mini-Alhambra of Granada, with its magnificent views, patios and palatial quarters in Islamic Andalusí style.
However, most of what you see today is a relatively modern reconstruction (albeit a tastefully done one!) since most of the buildings had become a total ruin and some areas had to be cleared of other later constructions that had been built on top.
Seeing the result, I think it was the good decision to take!
Entrance to the Málaga Alcazaba is €7 (or €10 if you buy the combined ticket that gives you also access to Gibralfaro fortress). The ticket has a QR code that you can access to get an audioguide which runs straight through your phone (you need an internet connection), a pretty smart and convenient approach!
The Alcazaba also opens a bit earlier than other museums, so it is a good idea to start the day here.
Picasso Museum of Málaga
Pablo Ruiz Picasso, one of the most influential and universal artists in history, was born in Málaga and, while he left the city quite early in his life, his imprint remains in the city through the Picasso Museum of Málaga.
The museum is located in the middle of the historical center in the Palacio de Buenavista, a fully restored 16th-century palace, which was, in turn, built on top of Roman and Phoenician foundations. IT is also adjacent to the church of San Agustín (picture on the right), also from the 16th C. and sharing its courtyard with the museum building.
Btw, the museum must not be confused with Picasso’s birthplace, which is actually some 200 meters away, on Plaza de la Merced, and it is also an exhibition space (which unfortunately I wasn’t able to visit).
Practical note: there are two queues to enter, one for those that purchased the ticket online (you are encouraged to do so by using a QR code displayed by the entrance to the museum) and another for those that wish to buy the ticket onsite.
It was a bit confusing, particularly since both queues appeared to be growing by the minute at the time of my visit. Interestingly, the “online ticket queue” was not only longer, but seemed to move more slowly. So, since I was not sure how much time would it take, I decided to try the ticketless-cash only queue. It turned out to be the right decision, since every few minutes a member of staff let some people from that, much shorter, queue in.
So, I don’t really know if this is how it always works, and hadrd to understand the logic when it looked like those pre-purchasing were being penalized (perhaps on some days there are numerus clausus and those that didn’t buy online can not get in?). In any case, but thought worth sharing the experience.
The entrance fee is not cheap (€13) but I think it is good value for what you get.
While the museum is not huge, it holds a really interesting collection that covers pretty much the whole of Picasso’s life and which were gathered by the artist’s daughter-in-law and one of his grandsons.
There is also a section with paintings by other influential artists that were contemporary with Picasso.
So, I would say this is the other highlight I would visit if having to prioritize the things to see in Málaga.
By the way, if you are interested in the life and work of Picasso, you may also want to check this piece I published on CNN a few years ago about the places that inspired and influenced the artist’s work in Catalonia during his youth.
The Port of Málaga
Since Málaga is a port city, a walk through the harbour could not be missing from this post. This time it had to be an evening one, but it still delivered some rather impressive sights, and I am not referring to the handful of mega-yachts moored along the quay!
There is a promenade all along the quais which offers the sea-view of the historical Málaga skyline, complete with the cathedral, the Alcazaba and the line of walls, illuminated at night, that run all the way up to Gibralfaro castle.
What’s more, the port of Málaga has also some interesting architectural landmarks that are made even more interesting because of the contrast in styles. This is the case of this Mondrian-style glass cube which hosts the Centre Pompidou Málaga and a small modern art collection, and the elegant Chapel of the Port nearby.
And if you make it all the way to the port’s lighthouse (“La Farola de Málaga”), you may as well eat or drink something at the “Trocadero Casa de Botes”. This is a stylish quayside restaurant which offers a cozy indoor atmosphere and some nice views of the port and the city. Definitely a place to check if you are looking for a place with real character to eat in Málaga.
Where to stay in Málaga
Hotel Soho Boutique Equitativa Málaga
Edificio La Equitativa, Alameda Principal, 3
29001 Málaga
This is a very nice hotel located right at the intersection of Calle Larios and the Alameda avenue, the two major avenues in Málaga’s downtown, and next to the port area. What’s more, as described earlier in this post, the Equitativa building is a landmark on its very own. Built in the 1950s, this 14-storey rationalist building would not be out of place in a major US downtown.
Rooms are not big, but are very cozy. The bed is comfortable and the room has everything you need to work, if needed. The bathroom is also pretty modern and stylish and has a huge shower room.
Also remarkable is that you may get great views of the city. I was just on floor 4th (of 14) and it was already like a panoramic viewpoint of the aforementioned Calle del Marqués de Larios right in front. I can only imagine how the views must have been from rooms further up.
By the way, there is a bar and a panoramic terrace (with a small outdoor pool, also with views) on floor 7th.
Last but not least, a couple of shots of the breakfast, which, as you can see here, was particularly solid when it comes to the pastry department!
So, definitely a hotel I would recommend as a place to stay in Málaga!
JAM Lisbon: a surprisingly original, great value hotel in Lisbon
Lisbon has become one of Europe’s tourist (and digital nomad) hotspots.
In fact, there is so much content out there about Lisbon at the moment, that, while I have been visiting a few times recently, will refrain from writing about the city itself.
However, I recently had the chance to stay at a hotel there that I think deserves a post on its own.
To be clear, I have no commercial link or interests in this hotel and fully paid the standard rate to stay there a couple of nights.
There were so many original and unique elements, though, that I couldn’t pass the opportunity to share my experience in case someone here is looking for ideas for his or her next trip to the Portuguese capital!
JAM Lisbon Hotel
Av. 24 de Julho 80, 1200-870 Lisboa
I have to confess I had never heard about JAM Hotels, but the Lisbon one is not the first. The concept originated in Brussels, where the first JAM Hotel opened in 2020, with Lisbon being its second location.
This small network is managed by a Belgian company called Nelson Group, which specializes in environmentally conscious architectural developments. In fact, the JAM Lisbon claims to be a “passive hotel” in the sense that it has been designed to have such a reduced environmental footprint (consuming 80% less energy than the average building of this sort) that is close to carbon neutrality.
This 109-room hotel, which opened in 2023, was redeveloped at the site of a former office building on the banks of the Tagus river.
In fact, while it is not in the heart of downtown, I did like the location. It is right on the road that follows the river all the way from the city center to the Torre de Belem, one of the city’s top tourist attractions.
And while the hotel is not right on the water (there is a road, a railway and the embankment in between), many of the rooms and, of course, the rooftop terrace, have views of the river.
This is an axis of communication which has numerous tram lines going through it (and even a railway).
The famous Time Out market, with its many casual eating spots and the picturesque neighbourhood of Chiado are both within walking distance.
JAM Lisbon has 109 rooms and a contemporary aesthetic. Although it is, by no means, “corporate modern”, it is something else!
There is a sort of “raw” aesthetic throughout. Lots of exposed concrete and an artsy non-conventional decor. Some parts of the hotel resemble a rather hipsterish co-working space rather than a hotel, an I don’t mean it in a bad way! There is also an open courtyward at the back.
The rooms at JAM Lisbon
So, let’s go check the rooms!
But, first, another positive surprise: each floor is fitted with this small coffee and water station. It is a sort of kitchenette, but just with the sink, and some coffee machines. So guests have complimentary coffee and water here at any time. Nice!
Next surprise: it’s not just the room decor and style, which is, certainly, unconventional, but something which by now was already pretty much expected, but the whole room set up.
I was on my own, but this is certainly a very interesting configuration for families traveling together with kids. Have you seen the piece of furniture opposite the bed? Let’s see what this is…
These are, in fact, bunk beds combined with some storage space. But not just any plain bunk beds, they have a sort of modular structure. And even if no one is sleeping there, the lower one can be used as a sofa.
The bathroom is also quite original. It is actually quite spacious and, perhaps influenced by the local Portuguese traditions, covered in these blue tiles you can see below.
The use of natural materials throughout is another distinctive characteristic of JAM Lisbon. In the next set of pictures I have tried to capture from up close what I mean by this. You can see by yourself the different textures and materials: the ceramic vases (complete with inspirational messages, because, why not?), the cork-upholstered chair and the earthy tones and shapes of, otherwise banal, elements such as the coat hangers or the bathroom shelves.
I didn’t have lunch or dinner at the hotel, although I did try the breakfast, which was pretty good. To be honest, the buffet didn’t have a huge amount of items, but it had the right ones and of the right quality. The croissants and the “pasteis de nata”, in particular, were excellent!
JAM Lisbon Rooftop
And, now, let’s take the lift to the top floor, because this is another ofJAM Lisbon’s highlights.
JAM Lisbon has a rooftop terrace with a bar, a chillout area (complete with a ping pong table and large screen) and a small swimming pool. I has also pretty good views of the Tagus river and the iconic “25th of April Bridge” (aka, the Lisboan Golden Gate bridge).
JAM Lisbon as an art venue
And yet another surprise was awaiting at JAM Lisbon!
It turns out the hotel is also used, on occasion, as an exhibition space. And it is easy to see why!
In this particular case it was a pop-up art exhibition and fair which had taken over a large part of the premises. The style, much in line with the overall hotel theme: lots of natural, earthy materials, shapes and textures, whether ceramics or textiles.
Some two dozens artists took over JAM Lisbon, not just the common areas, but also the whole 1st floor of the hotel. It was quite an experience to be able to go room by room, checking what was in each of them.
These were just normal rooms, like the one we have seen before, which had been turned into an exhibition space. The artists were also there, ready to explain their creations to any visitors that showed up. Hard to find a better setting for this type of event!
So, overall, I was quite positively impressed by the experience at JAM Lisbon, and the prices (at least at the time of my visit) are also pretty competitive. I visit many hotels throughout the course of the year and, while some are really nice, it is rare to find some truly original properties. This was one of them!
Service was also excellent during the whole experience, both at the reception and at the rooftop bar (one of the bar tenders even refused to charge me on account that the bottle was finished before he was able to top up the glass to the right level).
Perhaps the only thing that was not so great is the fact that lighting is very subdued, to the point that sometimes its a bit dark, but I guess this is aligned with the energy efficiency goal and, to be fair, it is not a big inconvenience.
So, to sum it up: if you are looking for some hotel that is truly unique and different during your next trip to Lisbon, a proper unpretentious designer hotel, do check JAM Lisbon, definitely!
Gems of the Costa Blanca: What to see in Alicante, Altea, Tabarca and around
The stretch of the Spanish coast centred on the city of Alacant/Alicante* is popularly known as the Costa Blanca and it is one of Europe’s tourist hotspots.
Now, I know this site usually avoids tourist traps, BUT, in fact, the point of this post is to show that, next to mass-tourism resorts like Benidorm, with their massive 1970s-style multi-storey buildings, there are quite a few beautiful gems that have managed to preserve their Mediterranean charm.
A recent visit to Alacant provided me the chance, with the help of a rented car, to visit some of these locations. I did complete the itinerary in a single day, although that was really, really a stretch and afforded just enough time to get a quick glimpse of the places. This is, therefore, mostly a visual post, since, I think the general relaxed atmosphere of some of these sites, together with the balmy weather is what makes them attractive.
*I have opted to use primarily the Valencian language (the local variant of the Catalan language spoken in the Valencian Autonomous Region) form of place names, although in some cases, like the city of Alacant, the Spanish version - Alicante - may be much better known internationally. Although Valencian/Catalan has, sadly, long been in decline in this area, I think it is a good way to pay homage to local culture and tradition.
A walk through downtown Alacant/Alicante
This was my first time in Alacant, plus my hotel (more on this further down this post) was in the very center of the city, right next to the town hall, so the obvious thing to do was to take a stroll in the central area of the city.
Alacant is a rather commercial city and it has been the scene of very intense urban development in the second half of the 20th century and until this day. Thus, the downtown is mostly “newish” in appearance, but there are is a section of the center, between the town hall and the narrow streets that ascend towards Santa Barbara Castle, in which it is possible to get an idea of the historical city.
The other point that is kind of a must is the seaside palm tree-lined promenade, with its patterned mosaic-covered floors. It has also a number of modernist style architecture that would not be out of place in Cannes or places like that. This is also next to the city’s large marina. Alacant/Alicante has also some notorious urban beaches, like the famous “Platja de Sant Joan”, but I didn’t have time to go for a swim this time!
Must-do in Alacant (Alicante): visit Santa Barbara castle
Santa Barabara Castle is located on top of a steep hill which absolutely dominates the city of Alicante from every possible angle.
This castle is, I would say, the top attraction to visit in Alacant/Alicante if you have limited time for sightseeing.
There is an access road and a couple of trails (which include several flights of stairs), but I would leave those for the way down towards the city.
The fastest and most convenient way to get up the castle is to take the elevator that runs inside the hill and leaves you in one of the upper levels of the castle.
Access is on the sea-facing part of the hill next to the beach of El Postiguet. It costs around €5 each way.
I did take the lift to go up and then walk down into the city to enjoy the views of the old quarter on my way down.
The castle is, in itself, quite a remarkable construction. It looks pretty much the way you would imagine a medieval castle, with several concentric levels of fortifications, with defensive towers, parapets and the like.
But the best reason to go up the hill is to enjoy the magnificent 360-degree views of the city of Alacant and the neighbouring coastline and inland plains.
On the way down you also come across some interesting sights. If Alicante oozes Mediterranean-ness, some corners of this part of the city take it to another level!
Great restaurant in Alicante
El Nou Manolín
C. Villegas, 3, 03001 Alacant
https://grupogastronou.com/en/nou-manolin
This is a sort of cult restaurant in downtown Alacant, with a tradition going back decades for good good and atmosphere. I was taken here by a local friend of mine and the place didn’t disappoint.
El Nou Manolín is located right in the liveliest nightlife area of Alacant, which is packed with bars, terraces and restaurants.
It has two levels, the first one is more like a bar, with a more casual setting in which people just seat around a central bar area, while the upper floor has a more formal, sit-down restaurant.
I have posted here some pictures of the diverse range of tapas and dishes that we tried (I have also included a picture of the bread, because it was so good!).
As you can see, fish or meat, it doesn’t matter. From the morel mushrooms filled with foie and egg (further above) to the littel grilled meat bites to the different presentations of anchovies. It was all pretty delicious.
El Nou Manolín has a particular large variety of rice dishes (an ingredient with a strong presence in Valencian cuisine), although given it was late in the evening, we opted for a lighter option, such as these red shrimps, very fresh andsimply grilled and salted.
One specialty you must try when in Alacant is Fondillón, a sweet wine that is made locally with the Monastrell grape variety.
Although it has a long history dating back centuries, this type of wine came close to extinction at the turn of the 19th C. due to the phylloxera epidemic, a parasyte that devastated Europe’s vineyards. It survived, though, and it has recently seen a bit of a revival, becoming a bit of a symbol of local viticulture and even getting its own Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) from the European Union!
Visiting Altea, a Mediterranean gem
So, leaving Alacant behind, it’s time to move up the AP-7 motorway and drive all the way to the first (and furthest) stop in our Costa Blanca itinerary: the beautiful seaside town of Altea!
Although it has not been immune to the overconstruction and overdevelopment fever of the rest of the Costa Blanca, Altea has a couple great things going for it:
A fantastic natural setting on a small, open bay, with a long, wide beach of crystalline waters, nicely enclosed by two slightly protruding rocky headlands on either side.
A picturesque whitewashed old town slopes down to the beach from a small hill, crowned at the top by a rather imposing domed church.
The charms of Altea have not gone unnoticed (and I am not talking just about Volkswagen subsidiary SEAT naming one of its cars after the town), but about the proliferation of all sorts of real estate agencies all over the place! Altea is, in fact, one of the towns in Spain with the highest number of foreign expat residents.
Pit stop in Benidorm - Avoid!
Down the coast from Altea is the place that epitomizes everything that has gone wrong with urban planning and tourism development in this part of Spain.
Some love it (the “Spanish Dubai” you may even say, to judge by the scale and pace of development going on here) some hate it. I lean towards the latter camp, although when I visited, off-season of course, the place was way more quiet than I expected.
The fact is, that while Benidorm may be able to offer low accommodation prices through sheer economies of scale, there are much nicer places nearby!
The colourful houses of La Vila Joiosa
This was another remarkable find!
La Vila Joisoa (the name of which means literally “The Happy Town” in Valencian-Catalan language) is a seaside town, similar, in many ways, to Altea, just that a tad smaller AND with a polychrome downtown rather than whitewashed!
La Vila Joiosa is eminently a beach destination and the life of the place gravitates towards its wide, sandy beach and the adjacent promenade. Didn’t have time to stop for long, but wouldn’t mind coming back!
An excursion to Spain’s smallest inhabited island: Tabarca
And here comes a truly unique experience, because Tabarca is a rather unusual place. After my visit I even wrote an in-depth piece for CNN about this island.
Located just a couple of kilometres from Alacant, Tabarca is not only Spain’s smallest inhabited island, with some 50 permanent residents, but it has a very interesting history.
Tabarca or, more accurately “Nova Tabarca”, was colonized in the 18th C. by people of Genoese origin.
They were fleeing another Tabarka, a tiny island off the coast of Tunis that acted as a Genoese outpost for a couple of centuries.
When the Bey of Tunis reclaimed the island, those Tabarkians that managed to escape were granted land in “Nova (New) Tabarca” by the King of Spain, who ordered also a fortress be built on the island.
So, today Nova Tabarca offers its visitors the relaxed and charming atmosphere of a Mediterranean fishing village designed with the engineering precision of an 18th-century military fortress, complete with its fortified walls.
What’s more, the two thirds of the island that were not built over, as well as the surrounding waters, are a protected natural area which feels a world apart from the buzz found on the coast of the neighbouring mainland.
How to get to Tabarca
Although Tabarca is officially a district of the city of Alacant, the ferries depart from the port of Santa Pola, which is a few km south of the city, near the airport.
There are several boats a day (although frequencies diminish drastically in winter!) and the return ride costs around €9. The trip takes some 20min and as an added bonus, most of the ferries have a glass bottom that lets you see the bottom of the sea as you approach the island!
The Palm Grove of Elx (Elche), a UNESCO World Heritage Site
The last stop of our list is the millenary Palm Grove of Elx (“El Palmeral de Elche” in Spanish), a World Heritage Site which dates back to the time of Al-Andalus, when this part of Spain was under Moorish rule.
The palm grove is, nowadays in the very center of the city, and it is a large park, which, as the name implies, is dotted with some 200,000 palm trees. The atmosphere is, indeed, reminiscent of some of the oasis of the Middle East, such as Al-Ain, which, by the way, is also an UNESCO World Heritage site.
I only managed to get to Elx by the evening, when the sun had already set, but this was not a problem to visit the palm grove since it is an open public park. Perhaps the nocturnal atmosphere made the place somehow even more interesting and suggestive!
Where to stay in central Alicante
Eurostars Mediterranea Plaza
Plaça de l'Ajuntament, 6, 03002 Alacant
This is a nice, modern four-star hotel that is as central as it gets in Alacant, just opposite the town hall, in the main square of the old town. The room and bathroom were impeccably clean and had a functional design.
The breakfast was also very good and it included a good number of local specialities, a nice touch!
The hotel does not have parking (a relevant point in my case, since I had rented a car upon my arrival at the airport), however, there is a public parking two minutes walk away next to the port, which cost something like €20 per day.
Kaş to Kastellorizo: where Turkey's Lycian Way meets the most distant Greek island
This post covers one of the areas with, possibly, more top historical heritage per square kilometre of the Mediterranean and this is on top of a stunningly beautiful landscapes.
This is, of course, not our first foray to the Turkish Aegean coast, you can also check our post about what to see in Bodrum and its surroundings. This one covers another section of the beautiful and rugged coastline of southwestern Turkey, particularly the area around Kaş and Kalkan and the neighbouring Ancient cities of Myra and Patara, what is today known as the “Lycian Way”.
What’s more, for those like me, who are interested in borders and those places that act as fault lines (or meeting points, depending on how you see it) between countries, continents and cultures, this region contains a particularly interesting spot: a very tiny Greek island which is really far away from the mainland, but almost adjacent to the nearby Turkish coast.
Keep on reading to find out how is it like to visit this tiny Greek (and European Union) outpost from the neighbouring Turkish town of Kaş.
Getting to the Lycian Way
Let’s start with a short paragraph about logistics. It’s going to be short: rent a car.
The area of Kaş is located roughly halfway between Antalya and Dalaman airports (Bodrum is also a reasonably close gateway and gets more flights than Dalaman). There is no train connection and I don’t think buses are a practical option to move along the area. I know “walking the Lycian Way” is a thing, but since this is not a hardcore trekking site, I will leave this one out too.
This leaves renting a car as the most convenient option and, actually, the roads are generally ok (between Antalya and Kaş about half of the distance is actually covered by a two-lane motorway). I also found parking in those coastal towns surprisingly easy (particularly when compared with its equivalents in Western Europe), but this may be due to the fact that my trip was in the autumn, and, therefore, a bit off season.
The Ancient city of Myra - the city of Santa Claus!
One the way between Antalya and Kaş perhaps the most fascinating place you can visit is the Ancient Lycian city of Myra.
The Ancient city of Myra (“Myra Antik Kenti” in Turkish) is a truly interesting spot for several reasons:
It was one of the epicenters of the Lycian civilization, which used to be kind of part of the Greek world, but not quite. Lycia had, in fact, its own cultural and political system for quite a few centuries, until the Romans took over the whole region and made it part of their Empire. Lycian cities were organized in a league that had some proto-democratic elements in the way it worked. It was actually mentioned by Montesquieu and said to have inspired the US Founding Fathers, as well.
Myra was the home city of Saint Nicholas (aka Santa Claus). Although he was born in Patara (another Lycian city that we also cover, further down this post, Saint Nicholas was the bishop of Myra for some time in the 4th C. There is a church of Saint Nicholas in the Ancient city, which is visited by numerous pilgrims (Saint Nicholas is said to have been buried there at first, but in the Middle Ages his relics were taken to Bari, in southern Italy).
The archaeological ensemble of Myra is absolutely stunning. Its most famous landmark are the rock-carved tumbs that fill the surrounding cliffs. These have porticos and facades, creating the impression of a proper city carved in the face of the rock. Next to it are the vestiges of what was, in its time, a rather important city, complete with a very well preserved theatre and many of the buildings that we typically associated with the major cities of Antiquity.
So, make sure you include a visit to the Ancient city of Myra in your itinerary!
Kalkan, perfect base for exploring the coast around Kaş: where to stay and eat
Our hotel recommendation in Kalkan:
Payava Hotel
Kalkan, Cumhuriyet Cd. No:80, 07960 Kalkan (Kaş)
This little hotel in Kalkan, a town some 27km west of downtown Kaş, was a real find. We booked it at the very last minute and it totally surpassed expectations.
The facility is on the outskirts of Kalkan, but if you have a car this is not an issue. It is actually quite easy to get there and to park (the hotel has its own private parking space).
The facilities are pretty modern (the bathroom in particular was pretty large) and, while not exactly next to the sea, it does have views of the sea, as well as a swimming pool with terrace.
I would also like to highlight the service, which was excellent. The hotel staff were actually very friendly throughout. At the end, we decided extend our stay for one more day than originally planned!
While we did not have lunch or dinner at the hotel, since we spent most of the day on excursions or exploring downtown Kalkan (see the section about where to eat in Kalkan further below), we did try the hotel’s breakfast and it was absolutely great.
The breakfast buffet at Hotel Payava offered a broad mix of European and Turkish foods (including an amazing assortment of local cheeses) as well as plenty of fresh fruit and produce.
Great place to eat in Kalcan
Ata Mezze Grill
Kalkan, Şehitler Cd. no:21, 07960 Kalcan (Kaş)
This is not the fanciest or the most expensive restaurant in Kalkan, but it is the one I would go back to without hesitation!
It is actually a kebab and mezze place located a bit in the outskirts but within walking distance of downtown.
The vibe of the place was nice, the food super tasty and the prices, very reasonable. We also got excellent service.
Here are some pics of the assortment of Turkish kebabs, bread and sides that we got (note also the paper tablecloth with the map of the Lycian coast, I really like restaurants that do this!)
The kebabs are all prepared in proper charcoal and served in generous portions, so top marks for this. But even better was this traditional Turkish dessert called “Katmer” (see below), which is simply amazing!
Katmer combines Kaymak (Turkish-style clotted cream) with a thick and sweet pistaccio paste encased in a sort of mille-feuille. It is served warm and waiter breaks the outer crusty shell when serving it. Delicious!
A day trip to Kastelorizo from Kaş
As mentioned in the opening section of this post, one of the attractions of the Kaş area, at least for those like me that are interested in borders and geopolitical boundaries, is the possibility of visiting the Greek island that is most distant from its mainland and which is also one of the EU’s tiniest and most peripheral outposts as well: the island of Kastellorizo (Megisti in Greek).
Kastellorizo is a tiny island, roughly 9km at its longest point and 2km at its widest, with some 500 permanent inhabitants. It is distant about 1 mile from the Turkish coast but some 100 miles or so from the closest Greek island, Rhodes. Kastellorizo also has a number of adjacent islets and rocks that are also under Greek sovereignty.
Considering the usually tense relations between Greece and Turkey, it will possibly not come as a surprise to you that this island has been a flashpoint in the long going disputes between the two countries. Recently, for example, Greece and Turkey quarrelled about the limits of their respective Exclusive Economic Zones (EEZ) in this part of the Mediterranean.
In an attempt to diffuse these tensions and to promote the good understanding between the two countries, a number of people in this region came up with the idea to organize an international sports event linking Kastellorizo and Kas in a friendly manner.
The result was the Kastellorizo-Kaş international swim, which takes place every year in June.
Participants swim across the narrow strait that separates Kastellorizo from Kas. It is technically a competition, but takes place in an atmosphere of friendliness and cooperation, since the main goal is to foster good cross-border relations.
I really don’t know when and how the border formalities are conducted, though, since Kastellorizo, as part of Greece is EU territory and is within the Schengen zone, so people making the crossing in that direction must have the proper paperwork to enter the EU. Likewise, the Turkish Republic enforces passport controls on its borders and this applies to the short hop from Kastellorizo too.
How to get from Kaş to Kastellorizo?
The easiest and shortest way is to take the ferry (operated by Meis Express) from the small port of Kaş, from where several ferries depart every day (the island has also ferry service to Rhodes, although it takes several hours on account of the much longer distance. There is also a small airport in Kastellorizo with to Rhodes, as well).
It is possible to buy tickets at the port terminal in Kaş , although it is best to book them online in advance.
The island, which can be seen from the shore, is just a 20 minute ride away. The ferry ride can, in itself be quite a pleasant experience if the weather is nice. There is an open terrace (as well as an indoors cabin) which is perfect to enjoy the sights of the coastline and the blue waters all around. We did even get to see some flying fish following us and jumping out of the water all around the boat!
Halfway to Kastellorizo, the boat crosses the international divide the Greek flag is raised (the boat is Turkish). On the return trip, the inverse operation is performed, with the flag being lowered down.
The existence of the border is very present throughout. In fact the first thing you notice when you sail into Kastellorizo’s beautiful small sheltered harbour are the huge flags of Greece (painted on one of the island’s hills) and of the European Union (waving at the entrance of the port), which welcome you to the island.
Besides the border control upon arrival, the liminal nature of this place is also accentuated by some other small details that you don’t need to be a border geek to notice. For example, you switch from Turkish to Greek time (-1h), from Turkish Lira to Euro and, if you have a EU sim card, you get to benefit from the roaming-charge-free mobile connectivity.
Exploring Kastellorizo
The island of Kastellorizo is absolutely beautiful and it would be well worth a visit even if you are not interested in all this border stuff. Most of the island’s population cluster around a tiny, almost perfectly quadrangular harbour bay, which is lined with cute traditional houses painted in an array of bright, vivid colours.
So, what to do in Kastelorizo once you set foot on the island?
Unless you have decided to overnight on the island, your time is likely going to be constrained by the ferrys’ schedule. It really depends on the time of the season and of the week.
When we visited the last ferry departed back for Turkish territory at around 5pm. So, this gave us around 6 hours on the island, which, I think, is enough to explore its main town and its surroundings and get a decent meal at one of the many restaurants lining the harbour.
So, what most people do is just go for a relaxed stroll along the harbour and the handful of streets around the historical center. These are really nice and encapsulate a certain idea of the Mediterranean as many people imagine it.
The seaside promenade is a bit touristicized, though (which I guess is inevitable in this setting!) and the different restaurants compete very proactively for the daily haul of tourists arriving in the ferrry.
Yes, it can feel a bit touristy and prices are not particularly cheap, but I would still include a seaside lunch in the Kastellorizo experience, if only because there is not “that much” to do once you have taken your nice postcard-like pictures!
You may also see the sea turtles that roam around the harbour. They are obviously used to human presence, since many of the tourists feed them scraps of food and even some restaurant owners do the same in order to attract them to their section of the harbour for the entertainment of their guests.
The other thing I would recommend doing, if you don’t mind the steep walk, is climbing up to Kastellorizo’s castle.
While the fortress is now in ruins, it commands quite a great viewpoint, dominating the harbour below. It is not a surprise that this place has a long history and it is suspected to have been fortified already in Antiquity.
The heyday of this fortress, however, was during the Middle Ages, when it was occupied by the Knights of Saint John and even, for a few decades in the second half of the 15th C., by a Catalan warlord, Bernat I of Vilamarí. I had read somewhere that it was still possible to see the four stripes of the House of Barcelona carved on one of the stones, but I could not find them (in fact, the castle is in such a state of ruin that it is only possible to access what is left of one of the towers). The island got even a Catalan name during that period “Castellroig”.
In 1512 Kastellorizo was taken by the Ottomas and in successive centuries it changed hands several times between Venetians, Greeks, Turks, Italians, and even British and Germans during WW2. In 1947, together with the other Dodecanese islands, Kastellorizo was confirmed as part of Greece.
From the castle you can also enjoy great views of the Lycian coast and the several little islands and islets that dot this area. But there is more…
If you climb down the castle hill by taking a little trail on its sea-facing side you will come across a couple of rock-carved monumental Lycian tombs, quite similar to the ones found in the Ancient city of Myra. This seems to have been a cultural practice common all over this region.
Btw, you can also continue along the seaside path to get additional views of the entrance of Kastellorizo’s harbour as you walk back to the ferry terminal.
Once back on Turkish soil, you can also spend some time exploring Kaş downtown.
While it is mostly a modern town, Kaş is actually, quite a lively place, with plenty of shops, cafés and commercial activity going around.
Visiting the Ancient city of Patara (the birthplace of Santa Claus!)
And, last but not least, if staying in the Kaş area, the Ancient Lycian city of Patara is another must-see, since it is located just a few miles west of Kalkan.
We have already commented on Myra, the city where Saint Nicholas (Santa Claus) served as a bishop, but, in fact, Patara was his birthplace.
Patara was quite a sizeable city at its peak, and even if only a small part of its perimeter has been excavated you can get an idea of its importance.
There are quite a few magnificent Ancient monuments in Patara, such as this impressive and well-preserved theater. What’s more, the ruins of the Ancient city are located right next to a long sandy beach, so it is perfectly possible to combine a visit to the archaeological site with a swim in the Mediterranean (and I would actually recommend doing so!).
One day in Tirana: what to do and what to see
Albania is one of the hottest tourist destinations in Europe right now.
The country that spent decades in isolation under the harsh Communist dictatorial regime led by the late Enver Hoxha, and, later, mired in years of economic and social strife, is now seeing visitor numbers soar.
A big part of this is the arrival of low cost airlines, such as Wizz Air and Ryanair, which have put Albania, and its capital in particular, in the sights of many European travellers keen to explore what was, until now, one the least visited corners of the continent.
The fact is, that if you grew up reading about Albania as Europe’s economic and political basket case, are almost guaranteed to be impressed by what you see arriving in its capital in 2025: a city that is, generally speaking, tidy and efficient and where signs of economic growth are all around. Now, I am aware that this may apply only to the capital, or to be more exact, its central areas, which is what visitors are most likely to see.
However, this is how I can best describe my impressions from the limited amount of time I spent in the city, which is, after all, what this site is about!
Getting to and from Tirana Airport to the city center
Here are a few lines about my experience traveling between Tirana International Airport and central Tirana. I must say, first of all, that my flights in and out of the city were both quite late at night (around midnight), but I think what you will read here applies to other times of the day too.
First of all, there is no rail line linking Rinas airport to central Tirana, so you will be restricted to road transport.
So, unless you are renting a car this leaves both the taxi and bus as public transportation options.
At the time of writing these lines, neither Uber nor Bolt or other international ride-hailing app were operative in Albania. I read online that there is a local app, but I am not too keen to use apps I know I won’t be using anywhere else.
So, this led me to check the bus and this was a great choice, particularly considering that the terminus station in central Tirana is on the very central Skanderbeg Square, right next to my hotel.
The bus turned out to be really efficient and amazing value. For less than €5 I got pretty much to the door of my hotel. The bus was modern and clean. It also runs 24/7!
In order to catch it, you just need to walk some 50 meters as you exit the terminal to the left and walk across a car park (on the way you will get several offers from taxi drivers to take you, but I still think the bus is very hard to beat for value if you go anywhere near Skanderbeg Square).
If the schedules haven’t changed, the bus runs with an hourly frequency. The ticket is purchased directly from the driver (see my point about cash!). The drive to the center of Tirana takes less than 30 minutes.
IMPORTANT: you are strongly advised to get some local currency upon arrival (there are a few booths at the airport) to get at least some cash with you, since Albania is extremely cash-dependent economy and you will need cash it to pay pretty much everything, including the bus!
Things to see around Tirana’s Skanderbeg Square
Skanderbeg Square is the very heart of Tirana and most of the main sights are within walking distance from it.
The square is named after Albania’s national hero, an Albanian aristocrat that fought the Ottomans in the 15th C., in fact, after rebelling against them, and set up a (more or less) independent early Albanian state.
Skanderbeg is such an important figure in Albanian history that his coat of arms was actually adopted as the flag of modern-day Albania and he has, of course, a statue in the square that bears his name, as well.
The square itself is a large open space with a rather Communist-era look (the building of the National History Museum with its Communist-Realist freeze contributes a great deal to this aesthetic). However, there are also a couple historical buildings around it and quite a few modern constructions also going up!
Several of Tirana’s main commercial streets converge on Skanderbeg Square. Those are not huge by any means, but they are quite lively and full of activity during the day.
Overall, as I mentioned in the introductory section, the city looks pretty well kept (see the nice detail of the flowers in the little space available) and the center feels pretty safe. One thing that becomes apparent is the amount of construction going on in central Tirana with quite a few high rises going up at the time of my visit.
There is also a small mountain river, the Lana, flowing through the very center of Tirana, just a few meters south of Skanderbeg Square.
Since I had only 24 hours in the city, effectively just one full day for sightseeing, I remained mostly in the central area, within a radius of one kilometer from Skanderbeg Square, but walking quite a bit in all directions. This allowed me to see some sights such as this sort of metal contraption, which seems to emulate the nearby Tirana Pyramid, or one of the city’s street markets.
Since Albania’s population is religiously mixed (muslims are the largest group, but there are also sizeable populations of both orthodox and catholic christians), it is possible to see both mosques and churches in central Tirana.
Retracing Cold War Albania at Bunk'Art 2
If you have been following this site, you are maybe aware of my interest in Cold War history. This is a topic I have covered with, for example, my visit to the Buzludzha Monument in Bulgaria.
And Albania is one of the places in Europe in which the mark of the Cold War is still felt very intensely and this is, in great part, because the country suffered a particularly oppressive and isolationist regime, even by the standards of Eastern Europe at the time. In fact, Hoxha’s regime followed its own policies, refused to integrate in the Warsaw Pact and aligned with Maoist China instead. It was also a particularly paranoid regime which filled the country with thousands of bunkers and other military infrastructure.
Some of this facilities were later turned into museums and some can even be visited in Tirana. Since I had limited time I had to be selective, though. This ruled out Bunk’art 1, a large bunker complex which is located in the outskirts of the city, as well as Enver Hoxha’s villa, which was undergoing some refurbishment at the time of my visit.
So I opted for Bunk’art 2, which is another bunker complex located right in the center of the capital. The visit did not disappoint!
To access Bunk’art 2 you go literally underground. The facilities, which were built anticipating an invasion that never came, have been turned into a museum that explains how life was like under the Communist regime and how the Albanian police state worked. It also explains the fate of many of its victims.
Some of the rooms have been recreated with a great level of detail, with lots of artifacts and pictures from that era.
Definitely a recommended place to visit in central Tirana!
Climbing the Pyramid of Tirana
But perhaps the most well known landmark in Tirana is the Pyramid!
This is, well…a pyramid, which was built in the 1980s to host the Enver Hoxha museum. It was actually finished when the Communist regime was already in its death throes, so soon other uses had to be found for it.
In recent years it has been repurposed as a center for startups and to host business activities related to innovation and technology.
The most interesting thing to do, though, is to climb to its top. The pyramid is not super tall, but the height is enough to give you a good panorama of the city and its very mountainous surroundings.
I would say it is not a super impressive sight, but since it is so close to Skanderbeg Square, it takes about 5 minutes to walk there, and it is one of the best known monuments in the city, a visit is also recommended.
Visting the National Historical Museum of Albania
This is another landmark I would recommend visiting. The museum is very centrally located. In fact, I would say it is possibly the most centrally located building in the whole country, since it dominates Skanderbeg Square with its rather impressive Socialist-realist frontal mosaic.
The museum covers the history of Albania, since the pre-history all the way to the 20th C. The building is itself, not without interest. It is very Communistic in appearance, but the collections have been updated a bit. It is also the right size: quite comprehensive but not overwhelming in terms of the time it requires to go through the different collections.
What and where to eat in Tirana
On this front, my recommendations are going to be quite simple and straightforward, since didn’t have that much time to experience the culinary side of Tirana.
If short of time, head to Kavaja Street, one of the main commercial avenues to the west of Skanderbeg Square, and get some borek or some other take away food from any of the many local take away joints and bakeries there.
If you are looking for a nice place to sit down a bit, my recommendation is the following:
Oborri (right side picture below)
Rruga Naim Frashëri (one of the smaller streets off Kavaja St.)
This is a restaurant-bar with a terrace, very good wifi and some tasty food. It is a bit more pricey than other places nearby, but nice and still very good value.
Where to stay in Tirana
Hotel La Favorita
29 Rruga Myslym Shyri, Tirana, 1001
This is an amazingly great choice of a hotel in the very center of Tirana.
It is a relatively small hotel, you could even say “boutique”.
Its location is amazing, in the very center of the city, just two streets away from Skanderbeg Square (in a sort of backstreet, as you can see in the picture). But inside is also very modern and in contemporary style, with large rooms and a large bathroom.
Staff were also very friendly and, by the way, the breakfast was also pretty good!
I paid I think something like €45 per night and I got a lot of value for it!
Nice coworking space in central Tirana
Coolab
Rruga e Dibrës Nr.65, Tirana 1015
If you find yourself needing to do some work while in Tirana, this coworking is a great option. It is also very centrally located and it occupies a whole building in one of the main avenues in the center. Very reasonably priced, I think I paid less than €15.
Staff were also super friendly and the facilities are pretty good, modern and with super fast wifi!
Visiting Spain’s Mars-like Rio Tinto mines
Spain’s Rio Tinto mines are among the oldest in the world. People started to mine metals in this corner of southwestern Spain more than 5,000 years ago. And it’s easy to see the reasons for this very early start.
The local river, which flows through the heart of this region, is entirely and naturally red due to the very unique geology of this place.
This very eye-catching characteristic didn’t go unnoticed to the different peoples that have exploited the mines of the Rio Tinto basin at different times in history, from the Ancient Tartessians in pre-Roman times to the British in the Victorian Era.
It is actually said that it was the mineral riches of this part of Spain that drew the Carthaginians and later the Romans to the Iberian Peninsula. Here they found the Tartessians, an Ancient local civilization that still remains somehow mysterious to this day, although archaeologists keep learning more and more about it.
The Romans mined mostly silver in the area, but the heyday of the modern Rio Tinto mines arrived in the late 19th C. and early 20th C. when British investors took over the mining activity and turned it into the largest copper mine in the world. It is not a coincidence that even to this date one of the largest mining firms in the World is non other than London-listed Rio Tinto!
Mining declined in the second half of the 20th C. as global price and demand swings made some of the activities uneconomical, leading to the closure of a large chunk of the mining operation.
Nevertheless, some parts of it survived and Rio Tinto is sill an active mining region, with a company called Atalaya Mining running a large open pit copper mine not far from the town.
How to get to Rio Tinto?
The best way to visit the Rio Tinto mines is to get a car.
It is not only the best option to get there from the closest airport, Seville (SVQ), which lies about one drive away, but it is also necessary to move between the different visitor sites around the Rio Tinto, because they are all spread out in a radius of several kilometers around the town.
Other than that, the town is not particularly difficult to reach. About half of the way is on a motorway, and the last 50km or so are on rather good country roads.
One important consideration is that while most of the points of interest in Rio Tinto are under the umbrella of the “Parque Minero de las Minas de Rio Tinto” (“Rio Tinto Mining Park”) there are different areas open to visitors and each has its own opening times and visit slots.
Likewise, you can costumize your visit and buy different packages depending on how many of these points you wish to see.
The most comprehensive experience can take a whole day, or up to 6 hours (taking into account, as well, that all the attractions close between 3pm and 4pm), although it is possible to do a reduced programme too. On weekends there are also some extra tours and experiences and, on some days, the tourist train is pulled by a steam locomotive.
Below is a map of the different points of interest in Rio Tinto mentioned in this post:
Mining museum in downtown Rio Tinto
Mining Train route
Peña de Hierro mine
Atalaya Mining open pit mine viewpoint (here I refer to the active mine, which is not open to visitors and can be seen from the road)
Corta Atalaya (this is the other open pit mine to the left of this image, which can be visited as part of the Parque Minero experience, although I didn’t have time to visit it on this trip).
Rio Tinto’s Mining Museum
This is the hub, so to speak, of the Rio Tinto mining experience.
It is located in the center of the town of Rio Tinto and it offers, through its exhibits, a comprehensive view of how mining activity was structured in the region and its historical, geological, financial and social aspects.
The museum covers the whole history of mining in the area, starting from the Ancient times and all the way to the present.
The exhibits are rather eclectic. Some rooms are rather old school in the way the different elements are presented, while some others have some really cool experiential stuff.
There is also a good number of machines and other equipment, including locomotives, that were once used in the mines and help get an idea of how life was in the area for both workers and managers.
There is also a replica mining gallery within the museum grounds which is surprisingly long and quite realistic!
The museum has also an annex called “Casa 21” (House 21) which is physically in another location across town. I did not have time to visit that one (I had only half a day to see the whole mining area before driving back to the airport).
At Casa 21 you can see how the mine’s British managers lived in the early 20th C. In fact, Rio Tinto was home to a British expat community which brought to Spain some things like…football! (the first football club in Spain was Recreativo de Huelva, set up in 1889 in the provincial capital!). I am sure it is quite an interesting thing to see!
The Train of the Mines (“Tren Minero”)
In my opinion, the train is the highlight of any visit. It is also the part of the experience in which it is easier to understand the whole scale of the mining operation that went on for many decades at Rio Tinto and also see from up close its environmental aspects and how it transformed the landscape of this area.
What’s more, it offers also the best chance to see (and even dip your toes in!) the red waters of the, aptly named, Rio Tinto, which is, after all, what gives its name to this very unique region.
The train departs at set times and spots are limited, so be sure you book your ride in advance! Also, note that the departure station is not in downtown Rio Tinto, but in an adjacent valley distant a couple of kilometres from the museum.
During the train ride, which took one hour total (around 20 minutes in each direction, plus 10 minutes of free time at the far end of the track to go walk along the river banks), a guide explained many of the geological or man made features we were passing by, the technologies used to mine the different metals and the impact they had on the environment.
She also explained how life was for the workers on site (spoiler: really, really tough!) and how the landscape has been evolving over time.
It’s important to bear in mind that the greenery and forests that today cover parts of the Rio Tinto basin are the result of repopulation. Some of the extraction and refining processes used in the late 19th and the early 20th C. were so toxic that the whole area was really like a desert with almost no vegetation!
At times, the landscape around the tracks looks like a giant rolling stock junkyard, which, to be honest, is part of the appeal when visiting what is essentially an industrial archaeology site.
Despite all the hardships, thousands of people used to live in several settlements scattered through the area. Today it. is possible to see what’s left of them from the train, as well as the vestiges of the different facilities that were processing the minerals.
Why did NASA come to Rio Tinto for Mars-related research?
The star of the visit is, of course, the Rio Tinto! In fact, the tracks follow its course for several kilometers and it is perfectly possible to spot its reddish colour from the train.
No fish or other complex organisms live in the Rio Tinto due to its acidity and high metal content, however it is not a lifeless river! The red colour of the Rio Tinto is natural and it results from the activity of several types of bacteria that have evolved to digest the metals that occurs naturally in these waters and feed themselves by oxidizing them.
This environment is, apparently, the closest you can get on Earth to conditions on the surface of Mars, so this has naturally caught the attention of bio-astronomy researchers and even of NASA, the US space agency, which has used Rio Tinto for some of its experiments.
During the 10 minute break between the two legs of the train trip it is possible to come down to the river bank. It is recommended to be careful not to get stained with the water, since it can be very, very hard to remove any stains. The water is, of course, not drinkable but, even if it is very acidic and has metals in it, it is still within the bounds that make it possible to touch it.
Overall quite an impressive experience that would, by itself, be worth the trip, but there’s more!
The “Peña de Hierro” Mine
The Peña de Hierro mine (which roughly translates as “Iron Hill” in Spanish) is another of the former mining facilities open to visitors in Rio Tinto. It is located some 3km north of the town of Nerva, which is itself a couple of kilometres from downtown Rio Tinto.
The mine has even some galleries of Roman origin, but the bulk of the activity took place between mid-19th C. and 1960, when pyrites and other ores were mined here. A large mining settlement had also existed adjacent to the mine, but this is now gone.
What is left and can be visited at present is a small one-room museum (with pretty interesting exhibits) and one of the galleries of the mine…which has a, let’s say, rather impressive surprise at its end!
When you reach the end of the visitor’s gallery…voilà!…you get to a lake that is now filling the bottom of the deep open pit mine. The sight is rather awesome and the sparse vegetation and pines that are growing on its sides makes you almost forget that is, actually, an artificial landscape!
Atalaya Open Pit Mine
Everything we have seen until now was industrial archaeology, remains of a not too distant but now gone mining past. BUT, as of 2025, there is still mining activity in Rio Tinto! And you don’t need to get too far out of town to see it.
One of the packages offered at the “Parque Minero” include a visit to the Corta Atalaya, a very large open pit mine. Since visiting times are limited (it is only open in the afternoon) I could not include that one in my itinerary.
However, there is a way to see a proper open pit mine even if you can get a ticket for Corta Atalaya, because, literally, on the other side of the road there is yet another spectacular open pit mine!
In fact, there is a viewpoint with some parking space (at the time of my visit the viewpoint parking was blocked by a chain, but there was still space to stop the car at the entrance and walk to the viewing platform) that offers amazing views of the modern open pit mine operation.
From here you can see how the massive semi-trucks trundle up and down the mine’s helicoidal tracks, laden with copper ore which several excavators are collecting at the bottom of the pit.
Quite an impressive sight and an appropriate ending to an intense day in the mines!
Great hotel to stay in Sevilla
While I am aware that there are other hotels closer to the Rio Tinto mines, my base for this trip was the city of Seville, which is located roughly one hour drive away from the mining basin.
There I stayed at the Hotel Querencia de Sevilla, Autograph Collection by Marriott.
Despite being part of a large international chain, this hotel has managed to preserve a boutique atmosphere and a very local flair in the overall presentation and theme. The hotel is as central as it gets, just off the main commercial street and a mere two minutes walk from Seville’s Cathedral and the Reales Alcázares, two of the city’s most important. historical landmarks.
The room was impeccably clean and decorated in contemporary style, but it had quite a few Arabesque details that are so typical of Andalusian architecture. I liked the wooden floors as well (always better than carpet!) and the touch of green highlighting some of the key elements.
There were also a couple of nice, locally-inspired goodies waiting for me: a fan (which is an object often associated with Andalusian culture as well) and a box of, also locally-produced “roscos”, a type of shortbread typical of Andalusia.
One of the highlights of this hotel is the rooftop terrace, which has also a small swimming pool which offers what I am pretty sure must be some of the best views in town.
This pool is truly an amazing amenity to have when you come back to the hotel after a day walking around the city in temperatures close to 40 C! Access is easy and direct via the lift and in room you have a set of bathrobes and slippers.
The views are also amazing at night, btw!
Here some snaps from the restaurant, where breakfast is served.
As you may have noticed from the pics, the theme of bullfighting is very present in this part of the hotel. Now, I know this is an activity that can be controversial, nevertheless it is undoubtably very rooted in local Andalusian culture and I think this is precisely the point the hotel is trying to make here.
The food selection, by the way, was really nice and tasty, particularly the savory section, which offers a good range of prime quality Iberian ham, cured meats and cheese.
It is also to have breakfast in a small terrace that, while it doesn’t have the views of the rooftop one, is also pretty nice, particularly in the balmy morning weather, and allows you to see the street directly underneath.
So, all in all, I really liked this hotel. Querencia de Sevilla is definitely one place I will keep in mind whenever I have the chance to come back to Seville!
Vilnius, Kaunas and Trakai: top things to do in Lithuania in summer
This is not the first time that Lithuania, and its capital, Vilnius, make and appearance on this site. I already collected some of my first impressions of the city in Winter time, on this post.
However, as you may imagine, Lithuania is an altogether different place during summer time (nothing reflects this seasonal change better than the pictures of the Lake of Trakai on this post and those taken in Winter!).
So, since I have got the chance to travel back to Vilnius a couple more times since then, I thought it was worth following up my initial post with a new one about what to do in Lithuania during the summer time if you have a couple of spare days.
What’s more, these additional trips, made in warmer weather, have made for a more rounded-up Lithuanian experience and allowed me to see more of the country.
Walking in downtown Vilnius
If downtown Vilnius already made for a delightful walk at the peak of winter, you can just imagine how much better it gets in the warmth of the late summer days.
Most of the monumental highlights in the center of Vilnius were already covered in the previous post, nevertheless, I am sharing here some pictures I took in these more recent trips.
These are mostly from the area around the cathedral and Gediminas Avenue, the city’s main commercial street, but lovers of modern architecture have also a little steel and glass business district across the river (as shown in the pictures below).
Worth noting that downtown Vilnius is very walkable and relatively small so, unless your hotel is in the outer districts, you are unlikely to need a taxi or even public transportation to move around.
Enjoying the Vilnius Festival
If you happen to visit Vilnius towards the end of August and the first week of September, you will be able to take part in a city-wide festival, which was until recently called “Capital Days” and was recently renamed as “Vilnius Days”.
So, what to expect? First of all, there are quite a few outdoor activities, both for children and adults, such as sports and other experiential stuff.
And, perhaps of more interest to visitors, lots of food stalls are also set up on the main commercial street offering a broad diversity of food and Lithuanian produce as well as some handicrafts and the like. It is a really good value option to eat well while on the go!
There are also quite a few musical performances and, this being the Baltics, singing choirs take, of course, a prominent role!
One of the happenings that was particularly interesting was the light and music sound that took place by the river Neris at certain times at night during the festival week.
The show was really impressive and the mist around the river (I am not sure if it was natural or laid out for the occasion) really added to the atmosphere!
Two Lithuanian foods you must try in Vilnius
Cepelinai (left) are a sort of Lithuanian dumplings which are typically filled with an assortment of different types of foods, such as meat or cheese. The outer crust is typically soft and moist and they are served with sour cream and some side, such as cooked onions.
Pink soup (right) is a summer dish (hence I could not try it the first time I was in town!). Beetroot is the element that gives it this colour and it has, apparently, some kefir-like fermented milk, which gives it a rather thick texture. It is usually served with some herbs and boiled egg on top and served cold.
Lithuanians are so proud of pink soup that there is even a week-long festival in May in Vilnius devoted to it and it appears in Lithuanian postal stamps as well!
Getting some Lithuanian food at Halés Market
So, where can you get your cepelinai and pink soup when in Vilnius?
If you are aiming for a proper sit-down meal, you can try the Lithuanian restaurant in the old town, “Bernelių Užeiga”, which I described in my previous article about Vilnius.
But, if you are looking for something more casual, besides the aforementioned festival week food stalls, another place where it is possible to sample Lithuanian food in a casual way is Halés Market.
This is small indoor market, located near Vilnius main railway station, sells all sorts of products and stuff. What I found particularly interesting is the food section, with several places where it is possible to order some freshly made and tasty “cepelinai”.
I had mine at a place called “Spoon Out” and they tasted great!
Kayaking in and around Vilnius (Vilnia and Neris Rivers)
If you are into kayaking, or just into outdoor sports, this is one of the top things I would recommend doing in Vilnius if the weather is nice!
If you have read my post about kayaking in the Gothenburg archipelago, you possibly know by now that I like kayaking, but this time it is not the sea, but the rivers Vilnia and Neris that I would paddle along.
Because Vilnius has, in fact, two rivers. The main one, which divides the old town from the modern business district is the Neris, but there is also another smaller river, the Vilnia, which joins the Neris coming from the east right next to Vilnius castle.
This little kayaking adventure in Vilnius consisted in kayaking the Vilnia downstream most of the way to end up in the Neris paddling through downtown Vilnius for the last stretch of the itinerary.
To kayak in Vilnius I contracted a company called Vilius Kareiva. They were super nice and efficient. They offer several itineraries with different durations and level of difficulty. I opted for the long one, which costs around €25 (equipment included) plus €3 for the ride to the starting point upstream.
The assembly point is downtown at a designated spot on the banks of the Neris where there is a small fluvial beach. But that is not the start of the kayaking route. From there, you are driven for about half an hour to a location upstream in the Pavilnys Regional Park, which is green area that starts on the eastern suburbs of Vilnius.
From this spot our group started our descent on Vilnius. The Vilnia is a mountain river, not very deep and with fast running water.
Unlike in the case of the Swedish sea kayaking episode in which I somehow underestimated the difficulty, I did not find the Vilnia descent technically difficult, even if I did not have experience in white water rafting, although the itinerary is quite long (-actually much more than it seems on the map!), it takes around three hours and you are likely to feel pretty exhausted by the time you arrive to the collection point in downtown Vilnius!
In the worst case, you can just let the current push you while you try to steer more or less a straight course. There are some areas in which there are rocks, plants and other obstacles that create bottlenecks and these can present some challenges, but the river is quite shallow, so, in fact you are more likely to run aground than to capsize!
The long itinerary includes also a spot in which it is necessary to drag the kayak out of the water and carry it on land for some 100 meters in order to bypass a little dam (this is actually how the Vikings moved their ships between the river systems of Eastern Europe).
The kayak is not super heavy, although if you are alone it requires some effort. However, it is very likely that you will be doing the itinerary in a group and everyone helps each other, so all good!
The whole itinerary is really beautiful, since it runs through the heart of a natural park. It is also quite diverse, with stretches that have calm water and others that have rapid-like conditions. You are also likely to see plenty of ducks and other birds around, and you pass by quite a few fishermen and families enjoying a day out on the banks of the river.
Towards the end of the itinerary, you enter the city of Vilnius and have the privilege of seeing its downtown and some of its most beautiful monuments from this rather unusual point of view!
And, the very final stretch is the arrival into the much larger river Neris, which is a totally different experience than when paddling the fast moving and narrow Vilnia.
The arrival is at the same place as the assembly point earlier in the day. There is a small beach where it is easy to take the kayak aground for collection.
Overall, an amazing experience combining sport, nature and sightseeing which is worth every cent and every minute of your time!
Sailing in Trakai Lake
So, I went back to Trakai! I had been there the previous winter when the lake was frozen solid and the town covered in snow.
And what a difference a few months make! This time Trakai received me in all its summer glory. This time I did not visit the castle, but instead, went for a bit of sailing in one of the several boats that offer excursions (it is also possible to rent small craft, even the ones that run on pedals).
The lake, with its large reddish castle on one of its islands was really magnificent and there were plenty of other people on boats also enjoying the amazing weather and the postcard-perfect views!
I think it is one of those cases in which one (or several) image(s) are worth more than a thousand words.
Recommended place to eat “kibinai” in Trakai
Earlier I mentioned “cepelinai” and pink soup, but there is yet another must-taste Lithuanian speciality: kibinai.
And there is a place on the shores of Trakai lake that is ideal to taste them (or even to make them, since they also run kibinai-making workshops as culinary experience):
Senoji kibininė
Karaimų g. 65, Trakai, 21104
The place is set up in one of the traditional houses that are still found along the lake.
It has a large terrace where it is possible to enjoy the nice weather outside.
A day trip from to Kaunas from Vilnius
Kaunas is Lithuania’s historical capital and, nowadays, the country’s second largest city.
Since Lithuania is a relatively small country, its two major cities are not very far apart: it takes less than an hour by train to get to Kaunas from Vilnius and there are trains running pretty much every hour.
To be fair, there are quite a few things to do and see in Kaunas if you want to explore it at a leisurely place, as for example my colleague Graupix did some time ago to then go on to write this post (in Spanish).
In my case, I had just half a day, plus the weather was not particularly inviting, so it was a bit of an express visit, but I hope it gives you an impression of the city.
Kaunas is located on a roughly triangular, wedge-like piece of land at the confluence of the Neris and Nemunas rivers (yes, the same Neris that I kayaked in the previous section of this article!). In fact, the city has two well defined parts, the old and new towns, which have two very different architectural and urban planning styles, but both have quite a few elements of interest.
The old town is rather cute, as you would expect in this part of Europe, it is made of relatively low-lying buildings and lined by cobbled streets (surprisingly broad, I must say!)
There are, I would say, two focal points in the old town:
Town Hall Square, depicted in the picture above, a rather large open space with the said town hall (which, actually, looks like a church!) standing alone in the middle.
Kaunas castle, which is located at the western edge of the old town, near the tip of the wedge of land between the city’s two rivers.
The 14th C. castle is built in the red brick style that is common in this part of Lithuania (as are many historical churches as well) and it opens into a large park that leads all the way to the confluence of the Neris and the Nemunas.
There are quite a few trails to walk around the area and even a sleeping dragon! (or so they say)
Modernist Kaunas
The modern part of Kaunas, in contrast to the old town, has a rather rational layout with an orthogonal grid.
In fact, Kaunas is in the UNESCO World Heritage Site list because of its Modernist architecture, found, for example, along Laisvés Avenue, the city’s main commercial street.
This style encapsulates the atmosphere of the 1920s and 1930s of the then, newly independent Lithuania, a period, that would shortly after come to an abrupt end with the start of WW2 and the German and Soviet invasions and occupation.
In fact, a place to both admire Modernist Art-Déco artchitecture and learn about Lithuanian history is the “Vytautas the Great War Museum” (below), which is dedicated to Lithuanian history through the ages.
The long-lasting struggle for Lithuanian independence is very present in Kaunas. Close to the “Vytautas the Great War Museum” is the “Tomb of the Unknown Soldier” (below left), which honours those the fought to preserve Lithuanian freedom. The monument was razed by the Soviets and restored after independence in the 1990s.
But a particularly interesting statue is that dedicated to the “Unknown Book Smuggler” (below right). Between 1864 and 1904, the Russian authorities banned the publishing of Lithuanian language books, so some people started smuggling them undercover, to great risk to themselves, helping preserve the country’s culture and language.
Street Art in Kaunas
In fact, Kaunas is rich in street art. Statues and mural paintings are plentiful all throughout the city. Some of them are really imaginative, such as this fisherman (below, right) that lets you appreciate the point of view of fish without having to leave the street pavement!
By the way, if you are into contemporary art, one of the hotspots in Kaunas is the “Kiemo Galerija” (Yard Gallery), depicted below, which is located, as the name implies, in the courtyard of a residential block.
And, last but not least, if you continue your stroll along Laisvés Avenue, you will end up at the Church of St. Michael the Archangel. This is an Orthodox church that was built in the early 20th C. to serve the spiritual needs of the Russian garrison, which at that time was stationed in Kaunas (the local Lithuanians are mostly Catholic and have the Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Paul in the old town).
The church stands alone in the middle of a large square which also happens to be lined with bars and restaurants with their respective terraces, so a good point to have a little rest and recharge energies after an intense sightseeing tour of the city!
There is, of course, another temple of note in Kaunas. I was about to say it’s a non-religious one, but, actually, I am not so sure, because basketball is almost like religion in Kaunas.
I am talking, of course, about the Žalgiris Arena, where Žalgiris Kauno, the city’s basketball team, which happens to be one of the best at a European level as well.
But this is, perhaps, a story for another day…!
A day in Malmö: what to see & what to do
The city of Malmö, near the southernmost tip of Sweden, often gets a bad rap. However, when I visited not long ago, the city of Malmö did really surprise me in a positive way.
To be clear, the purpose of this post is not to deny that some parts of Malmö have, indeed, some serious problems (according to some official polls, a majority of residents in some of the city’s districts reports feeling unsafe), however, and at risk of making this post less exciting (to some), I must say that I didn’t get this impression during my visit. It must be noted, though, that my one-day visit covered only the downtown and parts of the seaside, so it may not be representative of the city (and its suburbs) as a whole.
What follows is a summary of my impressions of Malmö and suggest a few things to do and a few places to see if you find yourself in the city with some time to spare.
Exploring downtown Malmö
Just as in the case of the recently reviewed city of Gotebörg, the historical city of Malmö is located within relatively compact stretch of land, delimited by water on all its sides.
Immediately to the north of the old town is the the central railway and bus station as well as the harbour and, as we shall soon see, some modern hotels. To the west of it is a major park, although its seems to be divided in two parts, one called “Slottsparken” and the other, as in Gotebörg, called “Kungspark”.
There is also an old citadel that acts as a nexus between the old town and the Malmö riviera, which stretches starts just west of the old town and stretches for quite some distance towards the south, all while facing the Danish capital, Copenhagen, clearly visible on the opposite side of the Oresund Strait.
Malmö’s historical downtown, centered around two major open squares, Stortörget and Lilla Torg, is not without its charms. There is no big major landmark to highlight, but, as is often the case in Scandinavian cities, the charm is in the perfectly harmonious architectural ensemble.
In the case of Malmö, its cobblestone pedestrianised streets are very nice to walk through. The whole city center can be seen in less than an hour, if you don’t stop at any of the many cafés or restaurants that dot it.
Suggested itinerary for the Malmö one-day sightseeing:
Start at the edge of the port area, opposite Malmö’s Old Lighthouse
Walk along the canal (which connects the city’s inner waterways to the port and the Oresund) and past the central station.
Cross the old town, from Stortörget on to Lilla Torg and continuing towards Slottsparken
Spend some time wandering around Slottsparken, Kungsparken and the Citadel.
Visit the seabaths (“Ribersborgs sea baths”) and get the views of the iconic “Turning Torso” building, perhaps the best known landmark in the city, and try to get a glimpse of Copenhagen in the distance
Return to the central station to get the bus to Malmö Airport
The great parks of central Malmö: Slottsparken and Kungsparken
Scandinavia is amazing when the sun shines and Malmö is no exception. Here are some views of the perfectly manicured and well kept gardens on the west side of Malmö.
The sea baths and the Oresund riviera
I would have not expected the Oresund to look like this, but it really felt like some warm-weather resort town.
A long seaside promenade lines the western limit of Malmö, which looks like a favourite place for the locals to practice all sort of outdoor sports and activities.
The most prominent feature in this part of town is the late 19th C. "Ribersborgs Kallbadhus", the open sea baths in which the locals come year round to combine sauna with cold water bathing. To be honest, at the time of my visit, any place along the riviera looked like a good spot for a dip, but I can see why this place is popular, as both sauna and cold water bathing are known to have quite a few health advantages!
The building housing the baths is actually located in the water and its access is through a long wooden pier. Even if you don’t intend to use the baths, I much recommend walking all the way through the pier for the amazing views.
This is actually one of the best spots from there to admire the “Turning Torso”.
This iconic residential building, one of the tallest in all of Scandinavia, is the work of Spanish engineer Santiago Calatrava and since 2005 has dominated the city’s skyline.
And, it is also from here that you can also get a glimpse of Copenhagen, the Danish capital, emerging, not unlike a mirage, over the horizon.
Copenahgen and Malmö have been linked since the year 2000 by a bridge and have since become, national border notwithstanding, a single metropolitan area.
Great value place to stay in central Malmö
First Hotel Jörgen Kock
Jörgen Kocksgatan 3, 211 20 Malmö
This hotel of local Scandinavian chain First Hotel is quite a good choice if you are looking for something central and not too expensive.
It is located just two minutes from the central station and barely 5 minutes from the old town of Malmö.
Downtown Malmö
Getting to an from Malmö airport
As previously mentioned, with Malmö and Copenhagen being so closely integrated, Copenhagen-Kastrup airport has become the main airport for the whole of Scania, the southernmost region of Sweden, as well.
Malmö does have its own airport, though, which is located some 20km to the southeast of the city and has mainly domestic flights to Stockholm and other Swedish cities and hosts, as well, a number of low-cost operators such as Ryanair and Wizz Air.
It is actually quite a nice airport to fly from and not crowded at all. However, the main issue is that, since it doesn’t have much traffic, public transport connections are not super frequent.
There is, however, a bus line that departs from in front the Central Station and takes you to the airport in about 30 minutes. I recommend downloading the Flygbussarna app to purchase the tickets in advance if taking this option.
Summer weekend in Gothenburg: what to do and what to see
Gotebörg is Sweden’s second largest city, with a bit more than half a million inhabitants, and, to be honest, when the opportunity came up to visit it on a business trip, I didn’t know what to expect.
One thing that definitely caught my eye is that it is located pretty much on the North Sea coast and it has a couple of archipelagos right offshore which can be reached relatively easily from the city center. Since this was still during summer time, was it going to be my chance to finally do some kayaking or fishing in northern waters? We’ll see this soon on this post…
Before getting into my impressions about the city, a couple of lines about naming: Gotebörg or Gothenburg?
As much as I like the Swedish name “Gotebörg” better, it looks like the English version “Gothenburg” is more widely used internationally and, actually, many locals use it naturally when talking in English, so I opted to use it throughout the text.
A walk in central Gothenburg
Gothenburg downtown was, actually, one of the positive surprises of this trip.
I had heard about Gothenburg being a major industrial center, and there’s something to it, but it does have a also a rather sizeable, cute and pedestrianized city center. What’s more, downtown is really commercial with plenty of shops, bars. and cafés, but it hasn’t (yet) got to the point that it resembles the banal-tacky tourist traps that many European historical centers have become of late.
Three major geographical features define the contours of the old town of Gothenburg:
Gothenburg’s estuary, which is actually Gothenburg’s port and its link to the sea and the Atlantic Ocean. This has been the lifeline of the city as a major port, shipyard and industrial center
Fattighusan, which is a navigable canal that cuts through the center and connects to the estuary and the port area. Its sides have a good number of monumental buildings and they are nicely decorated with flowers and criss-crossed by several bridges in its most central parts.
Kungsparken, which is a large park which follows the contour of the city’s old bastion walls and moat on its southern side and acts as a boundary or as a nexus (depending on how you view it) between the old town and the modern districts of the city.
Having said that, the main attractive of Gothenburg’s historical center is, I think, the harmony of its ensemble, clearly contained between the city’s old city walls on one side and the estuary on the other, rather than any landmark in particular.
One iconic building that merits a short stop, though, is the Market Hall (“Stora Saluhallen”), which is, well…an indoor market, which doubles also as a food court. It has an interesting structure made of iron arches.
The industrial and seafaring part of town becomes more evident, I think, as you head towards the western edge of the city, even if still within the confines of the old town.
One point of interest in this part of the city is the Feskekörka, a fish market which was built in a shape that resembles that of a church (hence its name which in Swedish means something like “Fish Church”).
Rather than a modern development, this building was built in 1874, which shows how conceptually advanced may have looked at the time. It is located in a very nice emplacement by the water and is enhanced by an interesting sculpture group in front of it depicting the fish trade that used to take place here.
Since a refurbishment in 2021 it is no longer a fish market, though, and, at the time of writing these lines, it is basically a seafood restaurant.
Nice place to have drink in Gothenburg: Magasinsgatan
If wish to have something to drink, either a glass of wine or craft beer in central Gothenburg, you can head ot Magasingatan, on the west side of the old town.
Here’s my recommendation in this area:
Brewers Beer Bar
Magasinsgatan 3, 411 18 Göteborg
This is a rather cozy, hype place with a nice selection of wines, cider and craft beer. It has also a terrace outside.
Magasinsgatan at dusk
Great pizza place in Gothenburg
Buono Pizza
Teatergatan 15, 411 35 Göteborg
Ok, I know pizza is not really Nordic cuisine, but, Gothenburg culinary scene is also a reflection of its very diverse population.
In this regard, if you are looking for a place to have dinner quick and relatively late in the evening, here’s a nice Italian pizza place quite central just off one of the city’s main commercial avenues.
In addition to the tasty pizza and large portions, there is an interesting menu sheets explaining the history of pizza.
You get also a large jar of water alongside, as well, which is unusual in Europe.
Kayaking in the Gothenburg archipelago
Scandinavia is a great place for outdoor activities when then sun shines. So, as a kayak enjoyer, couldn’t pass the chance to practice a bit of sea kayaking in the archipelago just off the city.
The first question to decide was: which archipelago? Because Gothenburg has two, one on the north and one on the south side of the mouth of the estuary.
From what some local friends told me, the northern one is more wild and perhaps more interesting from the point of view of its natural environment, but the southern one is much closer to get to from the city on public transportation.
Since I only had half a day for this endeavour, the choice was clear, then. I was going to sea kayak in Gothenburg’s southern archipelago.
Next was a matter of finding the kayak rental outlet. I checked several options, both on the islands and on firm land and I finally opted for:
Långedrags Kajakuthyrning
Hinsholmskilen, Småbåtshamnen, 426 79 Västra Frölunda
https://www.langedragskajakuthyrning.se
This place is located at the small sheltered harbour of Långedrag, which is, basically, a suburb of Gothenburg. It can be reached by direct tram 11 from Gotebörg’s Central Station in about half an hour (stop Gotebörg Hinsholmen). The quay where the kayak rental is located is just 2 minutes walk away from the bus stop.
The car rental location is located within a marina at the edge of a narrow bay. The facilities are a couple of containers where the material is kept. Before my arrival I arranged the pick up with the company on whatsapp and a young guy welcomed me and helped me get everything set up. He told me to contact him when on my way back to get the return sorted.
There is not really a facility to get changed, so you better bring a towel or something to do so on the spot. All said, it was 9.30am and the place was really quiet with pretty much no one around. Also, there is no shower, so when you come back, be prepared to change again onto street clothing straightaway.
The area is really stunningly beautiful when the weather is nice. This was the case at the time of my departure with the sea really, really calm (it was not to last though!) and the sun shinning. The waters near Långedrag soon filled with all sorts of watercraft.
Now, a word about the materiel: you get a sea-faring kayak, which is truly slim and fast, but, beware! also rather unstable if you are not used to this type of craft. You get also a plastic map of the area, which is VERY important since the archipelago is truly labyrinthine, with thousands of islands, islets and rocks all around.
So, another key decision was whether to aim for the outer part of the archipelago, which implies crossing a mile or so of open water, or stick to the islands closest to shore. Since I was inexperienced in these waters, I opted for the second and this proved to be the right decision, since the weather started to change mid-morning and I had to complete the return leg in rather more challenging and windy conditions (and after having experienced a capsizing mid-route!).
IMPORTANT!
Unless you have experience in these waters, stick always to shore, be careful and don’t overdo it!
Also, make sure you carry a mobile phone in an impermeable bag, some spare clothing in case you capsize and, if possible, don’t go alone!
Talking from experience here, since my return to base was far from enjoyable given the need to navigate the archipelago in far from ideal conditions!
Now, you don’t need to go very far to get to truly amazing and beautiful spots within the archipelago. This is truly Nordic nature at its best and the water was really clean and, surprisingly, not that cold!
The whole tour lasted something like 3.5 to 4 hours overall sticking to the islands that are closest to the mainland getting as far south as the island called Stora Sjoholmen. However, again, don’t be tricked by the look in the map, even that relatively short distance can be quite taxing physically and you need to be careful navigating the many rocks and islets not to add too much to the itinerary. I returned to Långedrag in the early afternoon.
Good value place to stay in central Gothenburg
Hotell Heden BW Signature Collection
Sten Sturegatan 1, 411 39 Göteborg
This is a rather unpretentious but good value place. It is located in the modern part of town but less than 10 minutes walk away from the historical cente and two minutes away from one of the city’s main thoroughfares with plenty of trams going through. The walk to the old town is, in itself, quite pleasant if the weather is nice, since it goes across the Kungsparken, Gothenburg’s main urban park.
Interestingly for such a urban hotel, the layout is more reminiscent of out-of-town or roadside hotels, with a low-rise building and an open central courtyard. The rooms are nothing super fancy, but clean and functional.
The breakfast was quite good, actually. And staff were nice and attentive throughout all interactions.
A walk in the Haga neighbourhood
An area of Gothenburg that deserves also some space here is Haga, which is located on the southwestern part of town (outside the old town).
This used to be a working class district of Gothenburg, but has since become gentrified, with its cobbled streets and old-style houses, built in a characteristic style that combines brick and wood, becoming a lively area with shops, restaurants and cafés.
It is also pedestrianized, so it makes for a great walk (again, provided the weather is nice!).
Where to get the best views of Gothenburg harbour
TaKeT Rooftop Bar
Skeppsbroplatsen 1, 411 21 Göteborg
This is a nice rooftop bar located right at the center of the harbour area, next to one of the maritime terminals from where several of the ferries connecting the two sides of the estuary and the lines linking to Gotheburg’s archipelagos depart.
Gothenburg’s TaKeT Rooftop Bar is also an ideal place from where to understand the role of its port in the city’s economy, even if some of these facilities have now been reconverted to host other types of activities (including Gothenburg’s role as a hub for Chinese electrical vehicle production and distribution in Europe).
The best time to visit the TaKeT Rooftop Bar is at sunset, since the westward looking layout of Gothenburg’s port guarantees some truly impressive views!
Half a day in Bucharest: what to do and what to see
Romania is definitely in fashion and for all the good reasons. We are talking about one of the countries that has possibly changed the most since the drab times behind the Iron Curtain and the chaotic 90s that followed.
Discovering Cluj-Napoca, in Transylvania, was already a nice surprise. This time, it was the time to explore the country’s capital, Bucharest.
There was a catch, though, my overnight stopover only gave me roughly one morning and part of the early afternoon before having to head back to Otopeni airport to catch my next flight.
I am aware that such period of time doesn’t do justice to a city which was once known as “the Paris of the East”. This was, however, a challenge I was happy to take on, as visiting a city with a hard time constraint kind of helps you sharpen your sightseeing focus.
Bucharest city center is, in fact, quite compact, which means that if you don’t mind a bit of moderately-paced walking you can cover quite a few highlights even within this constrained timeframe. In this post I would suggest a few things you can do and a few interesting places you can visit if you ever find yourself in Bucharest and have a few hours to spare to do some sightseeing.
Getting from and to central Bucharest to Otopeni Airport
On my way into the city, since it was pretty late at night, I requested a Bolt ride, which cost me 67 Lei (some €13) to get to the cente, so pretty cheap for European standards.
There is an even cheaper way, though, particularly useful during the day and if you are near Piața Unirii, one of the city’s major transport hubs at the eastern edge of the historical center. Bus 100 runs every 20 minutes or so and takes around 40 minutes to get to the airport.
The ride costs 3 Lei (around €0.6) and it can be paid directly with your credit or debit card using the card reader inside the bus. It is a urban bus, so the comfort of the ride depends on how crowded it gets, but happy to report it went really well in my case (early afternoon on a Sunday).
Visiting the Romanian Parliament Building
The Romanian Parliament building is the one building that has got Bucharest in the World Record tables, since it was, at least for some time (not sure whether this is still true), the largest civilian building in the world (and I think second overall after the Pentagon).
This was actually one of the pet projects of the late Romanian dictator Ceaucescu and it somehow became a symbol of his megalomania. The 365,000 m2 (3,930,000 sq ft) building (by floor area) was started in the mid-1980s, when the regime was already in its twilight years and it wasn’t completed after more than a decade later, with Romania already a democracy.
So, once completed it has kept its function as the seat of the Romanian Parliament.
The Romanian Parliament building is open to visitors, BUT, only through tours which run on specific schedules. Sadly, I was not able to secure a spot, since it was already fully booked quite a few days before my visit. This was a bit of a disappointment, but nevertheless, and since it is within walking distance of old Bucharest, I went to see it from the outside.
In fact, this is not the only site linked to the history of Ceaucescu’s infamous regime that was also booked solid for the the whole day (and it was not even peak tourist season!), sign that there is quite a few people out there interested in the Cold War period!
So, even if you are unable to secure a spot on a tour, I would say, go see it and take some pics, since my guess is that the most impressive sights are possibly from outside anyway. You can check first the eastern facade, which opens onto a grand avenue (designed for military parades and the like) and then go check the main northern entrance, where this picture with the flag is (I actually went to the ticket counter to see whether there were any late minute openings, to no avail).
As we shall soon see in this post, there are other sites in town in which it is possible to explore the topic of Cold War Romania and which are easier to visit!
Bucharest Old Town
Despite its present-day modern appearance, Bucharest is quite an old city and it was already a vibrant trade center by the late Middle Ages. The center of the old town is just north of the Dambovita river.
I would say it is not huge in relation to the size of the overall city, although the area of sightseeing and commercial interest spreads also over the adjacent more modern districts. The core of the historical center is made of cobblestone streets and mostly pedestrianised.
Since I had limited time in town, I started early, walking from my hotel to the Parliament building all the way through the old town, and the place was empty at that time aside from a few church goers. In fact, it was a Sunday and the sound of bells and religious chants emanating from some of the churches added to the atmosphere. When I walked back a bit later in the morning, the place was quite more crowded with tourists.
Walking through the old town you can clearly see why Bucharest was called the “Paris of the East”. Besides the “soft”, cultural aspect of it (Romania’s traditional francophilia), there neoclassical architectural styles of this part of town would not be out of place in some part of the other Paris, the one in the West.
The one thing that got me a bit concerned, though, is that, just as it has happened in other European capitals, the area is totally full of rather banal bars, restaurants and souvenir shops, many of them with rather tacky signage and the like.
In this regard, another aspect of Bucharest that caught my eye is that the city, outside of a handful of streets at the very core of the old town, is a bit of a hotchpotch of different styles, most of them post-war and not particularly well matched. In this regard, it reminded me a bit of Madrid, another undeniably buzzing city, that nevertheless grew fast and in a not particularly orderly way in the post-war period.
So, in short, if want to see the best of Bucharest old town, I’d say just wander a bit around Lipiscani Street, check the National Bank of Romania, possibly the grandest building of all in this area, don’t forget to check the Stavropoleos Monastery (detailed next in this post) and venture a bit further north, to University Square and beyond if you have time.
I went as far as the building of the Ministry of the Interior because this is another place of historical significance as we shall soon see…
The Stavropoleos Monastery
This is a historical and architectural gem in the middle of old Bucharest. It is small in size, but rich in content (with some amazing paintings inside).
Bucharest’s Stavropoleos Monastery is also one best exponents of the so-called Brâncovenesc style, which developed in Romania in the 17-18th Centuries, combining stylistic elements from the Eastern Roman and Ottoman cultures as well as from Renaissance and Barroque architecture.
What’s also quite amazing is that this monastery, which was built in 1724, has survived pretty much intact in the middle of Bucharest. Today is surrounded by much larger buildings on all sides.
You can come in at any time during the day (except during services, unless you are taking part in them) and it is free to visit.
Where to eat in Bucharest: Casa Capșa
Ok, this review refers to Casa Capșa more of a place for a short rest and a coffee than to have a proper meal, but remember that, on this tour we have a hard time constraint, so, on this occasion, sitting down for a proper meal was out of the question!
I still wanted to taste something original, so I headed for a pit stop at Casa Capșa, one of Bucharests historical restaurants, which is also the place where the Joffre cake was invented.
The Joffre cake takes its name from the Catalan-French hero of the First World War, who visited Bucharest in 1920. The cake’s cylindrically-shaped chocolate cake is a reference to the French “képi”, the iconic military hat, while its size appears to have been devised to remain within the bounds of what was tolerable to Joffre’s health at the time.
But even if you are not into chocolate and sweets (depicted in the photo is NOT a Joffre cake, but a sort of cheese cake which was actually very tasty!), you can enjoy a whole range of other delicacies at Casa Capșa, all served in a very classical setting!
National History Museum of Romania
Also located in the old town, and in a rather grand building, is the National History Museum of Romania, which I would also recommend.
There is quite a lot of interest in this museum, even if the collections, both temporary and permanent, are organized in a way that is a bit difficult to understand, with Ancient Rome and the Dacians in the room next to the WW2 air campaign against the Ploiesti oil basin.
I guess part of this is due to the need to fit such a broad range of topics in a sort of “old-school” building.
When you come in (the ticket is something like the equivalent of a couple of euros), you may come across some temporary exhibits. When I visited there was some exhibition about children’s toys throughout the 20th Century, but this may change.
The collections that I found of most interest were about Romania in the Second World War, which is actually a theater of the war that is often forgotten by the mainstream accounts of the conflict. As someone interested in the minutiae of WW2, I greatly enjoyed the exhibition about the air campaigns the allies conducted against the Romanian oil industry, the main source of oil for the Axis throughout most of the war.
The exhibits are rather modernly arranged, with explanations in English and a huge amount of detail down to pretty much every individual raid.
But perhaps the most visually interesting part of the museum is that dedicated to Romania in ancient times.
Romanians take their Roman roots very, very seriously, as exemplified, to start with, by the name of the country, although they also take pride in their Dacian (pre-Roman) past.
At the museum there is a replica of the Trajan Column (the original is, of course, in Rome), which depicts in all details the campaigns that Emperor Trajan conducted in what is now Romania to bring it under the fold of the Roman Empire in the 2nd C. AD. While you may be able to see the original in the Italian capital, here you can see it from up close and understand what is being told in each of its sections.
There are also several rooms displaying rather spectacular historical artifacts, including jewellery and other items archaeologists have found in the territory of what is now Romania, from the Ancient pre-Roman civilizations all the way to the Middle Ages and the period of Ottoman domination and the Romanian monarchy in the first half of the 20th C.
Cold War Tourism in Bucharest
Museum of Communism
This is a small, but very interesting museum in the very center of Bucharest (from the set up I think it is some sort of private initiative) which explains how life was like in Romania under Communism and the dramatic events that led to the regime’s downfall and the execution of dictator Ceaucescu and his wife in December 1989.
There are quite a few of these museums throughout Eastern Europe, but, of course, each of them has a bit of a local flavour.
Romania was under a Communist dictatorship for a bit over 40 years, until the regime collapsed in 1989. During this period of time, the country remained one of Europe’s poorest and only recently has started to leave this legacy behind.
The museum takes just one floor of a building, so you can see it relatively quickly. Staff were very friendly, welcomed me and offered to provide any additional explanations I may need during the visit (perhaps it helped there were not many people around at the time of my visit).
Each of the rooms (it is really like a large flat) explains a particular topic, such as the repression of dissent by the Securitate, the regime’s ubiquitous and feared secret police or the efforts of the Romanian regime to turn Romania into a major industrial country at all costs.
An interesting fact is that, unlike in other parts of the Eastern Bloc, living standards got actually worse in Romania in the 1980s compared to the preceding decades. This was in great part because of Ceaucescu’s own autharchic policies, which made it a bit of an odd character within the Warsaw Pact during his last years in power.
The museum has several rooms depicting how the typical Romanian family lived and it has plenty of items relating to everyday life during this historical period
Bucharest’s Revolution Square: the site of Ceaucescu’s last speech
One of my childhood memories is watching the Romanian revolution of 1989 being televised pretty much live. This is perhaps the reason during this trip I prioritised the sites that are connected to those events. I already mentioned my semi-frustrated attempt to get on a tour of the Romanian Parliament building. Unfortunately, Ceaucescu’s villa, another tourist hotspot in Bucharest, was also fully booked.
There is, however, a site of major significance that it is perfectly possible to visit at any time: the square in front of the Ministry of the Interior building where Ceaucescu delivered his last speech before realizing he was losing control of the country.
In case you had not seen it, here is footage of those events:
That building is still today the Ministry of the Interior of Romania, the square in front of it has now several memorial elements that remember what happened on that fateful day in which Ceaucescu had to leave from the roof on a helicopter.
I was surprised to find out the balcony is actually quite small and low-lying, and that it was also enclosed in a short of open courtyard. The TV images give an impression of a much larger setting, but I guess part of the job of the regime’s TV producers was to make it look that way.
Revolution Square, as it is called nowadays, has several monumental elements remembering those events
There are several commemorative elements on Bucharest’s Revolution Square:
The most prominent of which is the Memorial of Rebirth, an obelisk-like monument crowned by a round metal structure. Inaugurated in 2005, it remembers the dozens of people that died to bring democracy to Romania during the Revolution of 1989.
Btw, if you are interested in the Romanian Revolution of 1989, check out my piece about Timisoara, the city where it all started, and where it is possible to visit a whole museum dedicated to those events.
Where to stay in Bucharest
AT Central Apartments
strada Anton Pann 19A
030795 Bucharest
These serviced apartments are located within walking distance of the old town in a rather quiet side street. One of the low-rises that dot this part of town has been totally renovated inside.
The room was rather modern and spacious and fitted with a small kitchen.
The only if is that thee bed linen was not of the best quality and this detracts a bit from the experience since it gives it a bit of cheap feel which is not in line with the rest of the facilities.
The building is fully automated and you are given an access code before your arrival. There is also a small common kitchen area at the top floor where it is possible to get some coffee and tea (included in your fee), as well as a storage area where you can lock your luggage (you can request for your access code to be extended to pick it up after check out from the room).
But the best of all, in my opinion is the rooftop terrace, where you can have your coffee with views of the city.
Overall, pretty good value for money!
By the way, if you travel to Romania, chances are you will fly either the national flag carrier TAROM or low-cost airline Wizz Air. So, I encourage you to check the flight reviews on our sister website Allplane:
Weekend in Gdansk: what to do and what to see
Gdansk has found itself, rather unwillingly, at the front line of some of the most pivotal events of the 20th century: the start of WW2 and the beginning of the end of Communist dictatorships in Eastern Europe.
In this post we’ll describe some of the places most closely connected to those historical episodes, but, besides that, the old town of Gdansk is also a place of beauty on its very own.
I am aware the Baltic coast near Gdansk has also some places of interest, such as port of Gdynia and the resort town of Sopot, but, since I only had two full days in the city, I decided to focus on the city of Gdansk proper.
In fact, I think 48 hours is an ideal time stretch to visit both the old parts of Gdansk, with its Hanseatic architecture, and the more modern parts near the sea, which are more closely connected with its, let’s say, more troubled contemporary history.
Visiting the Old Town of Gdansk
The history of Gdansk is a compendium of the constant and not always peaceful border changes that have afflicted parts of Central and Eastern Europe throughout the last few centuries.
Gdansk emerged as a major trading entrepot already in the 14th C. The city, which occupies a strategic spot at the mouth of the river Vistula, was a member of the Hanseatic league, which grouped some of the most important trading ports of the Baltic and northern Europe.
Being located pretty much on the fault line between the Germanic and Slavic worlds, Gdansk has been under several different sovereignties in succession and has, for a significant part of its history, also been known by its German name of Danzig.
What to see in the old town of Gdansk?
There are a few buildings of historical interest, of course, I would highlight St. Mary's Church, the bell tower of which has the highest view point in Gdansk’s old town, and the Brama Wyżynna, which is one of the city’s gates old gates, built in the 16th C, and the first monumental sites that greet you if you approach the old town from the west.
But I would say Gdansk is not about any one monument in particular, but about the ensemble. You can spend the whole day wandering around admiring the many colourful facades that lines the streets and the myriad of decorative elements.
There are two major pedestrian axes that concentrate most of the activity (and tourists as well). One of them is the Długa, the main central street (pictured in the photo that introduces this article), which runs West to East and widens at the Długi Targ forming a square. The other, or others since there are two of them, are the banks of the river Vistula, which runs south to north and is pedestrianised.
By all means, visit them, but also, do not hesitate to get “lost” in the other areas of the old town, particularly north of the Długa. You never know what you will come across after turning the next corner! And yet…
….most of what you see is not really the “original” Gdansk/Danzig, but a very nicely done modern reconstruction.
For reference, I post here a picture, which was exhibited at the Museum of Gdansk, which hows how Gdansk looked like in 1945.
The result is truly astonishing and I think the decision to rebuild the city as it was before the war, instead of filling it with some drab concrete buildings, as it has sadly happened in so many other places in Europe, is something to be celebrated.
This post about Gdansk could well be just a photo gallery, but I think if I just give you a little taster here. The rest you will have to go see in person!
Where to stay in Gdansk
Zefiro Ogrody Apartments
Długie Ogrody 4, 80-765 Gdańsk
One of the things that caught my attention is that hotels in Gdansk, at least in the late summer/early Autumn period when I visited, where not cheap, so I opted for a serviced apartment instead.
This turned out to be a great choice, since the place was really. central (not in the core of old town but immediately next to it, less than 5 minutes walk away) and also well connected to several bus lines which served me well for my visit to Westerplatte (more of this soon).
The apartment is located in a post-war residential block, but it is totally refurbished inside and you can access with a code. It was small, but pretty good for one person short stay.
Visiting Westerplatte, the place where WW2 started
A visit to Westerplatte is a must for anyone minimally interested in WW2.
It is generally accepted that the first shots of WW2 were fired in the early hours of September 1, 1939, by the German battleship Schleswig-Holstein against the Polish garrison in Westerplatte.
The city of Gdansk had a special status at the time, under the jurisdiction of the League of Nations, although Poland was responsible for some aspects of its governance and kept a military presence at the Westerplatte peninsula.
This fortified outpost, at the mouth of the Vistula river, acted as a seaport and logistics center for the Polish army. So, its bombardment was a prelude of the Nazi invasion of Poland and the German takeover of the city.
How to get to the Westerplatte historical site
The bus ride from the center in a normal urban bus takes about half an hour. There are at least two bus lines (106 and 606) that take you there from the city center, frequencies are usually every 20 minutes or so. I recommend downloading the Jakdojade mobile app to purchase the tickets while on the go.
What can you see at Westerplatte today?
After the war, and with Gdansk now fully in Polish hands, Westerplatte took, of course, a special symbolic significance as a memorial place and war monument.
Visitors can arrive at the southern end of the complex, where there is some small infrastructure (although nothing compared to the massive visitor centers and souvenir shops you find at some other European or American historical sites!).
Rather than a compact fortress, Westerplatte spreads over a territory that is roughly a couple of km long a 500m wide, with the Vistula on one side and the Baltic sea on the other.
So, the visit is essentially an outdoors walk that takes you past the different casemates and barracks that were part of the complex and that were almost entirely destroyed on the first day of the war, as well as a war memorial that is the resting place of the Polish soldiers that died defending Westerplatte.
The information panels are also in English and provide a very detailed explanation of what each building is, what was the role it played in the battle and the fate of those that found themselves defending the outpost during that very unequal fight.
It is also possible to get inside some of the destroyed barracks following a clearly designated path.
This memorial path through the Westerplatte ends at the tip of the peninsula, where there is a monument to its defenders. The obelisk-like concrete monument, which clearly reflects the style of the era in which it was built, is in at the top of a small hill, so it has also views of the adjacent port of Gdansk.
At the back of this monument is the northern, Baltic-facing part of the peninsula is more forested. Some excavations were still going on there at the time of my visit.
A visit to the Westerplatte is also an opportunity to get to see the Baltic sea, since, despite its tradition as a trading port, the city’s downtown is a couple of miles from the sea, and most of its sea-facing area is filled with docks, shipyards and other industrial areas.
The Westerplatte peninsula has a rather long, sandy beach, although quite exposed to the elements.
Where to eat in Gdansk
Our recommendation
Piekarnia Gruzinska Ketili Puri
Szeroka 125, 80-835 Gdańsk
Now, I am aware this is not Polish cuisine. It is Georgian. It is not even a restaurant, it is actually a bakery. And it is not even a singular establishment, since it is a chain.
BUT, I stopped here for a little rest and to replenish energies during my walk through Gdansk and it provided great, tasty food and great value, plus a place to sit outdoors on a nice street and with very efficient service.
So, I can’t but recommend it if you are looking to maximize your sightseeing time and do just a relatively quick pit stop while you, following my recommendations, wander around the old town.
Visiting the Solidarnosc Center
If Gdansk is the place where the first chapter of WW2 was written, the city had also a stellar role in the beginning of the end of Communism in Europe.
In the early 1980s, the vast shipyards of Gdansk were the cradle of the Solidarnosc (“Solidarity”) movement, which became the bedrock of opposition against the Soviet-controlled regime of General Jaruzelski. A man in particular, Lech Walesa emerged as the leader of this wave of protest that ended up with the Polish Communist government declaring martial law. It would take a few more years for the regime to collapse, as it did in the rest of the Eastern Bloc, but the seeds of revolution were planted at the Gdansk shipyards.
Walesa would be awarded the Nobel Peace Prize in 1983 for its activism and it went on to become President of Poland and later Member of the European Parliament (MEP) after the Communist era was over.
The story of what happened at Gdansk shipyards in those years is told at the very place where the events took place. The European Solidarity Centre is a massive, modern museum located at the edge of the city’s shipyards.
How to get to the European Solidarity Centre?
Just walk from the old town. It is possible to get there by bus, but the museum is located at the southern edge of the city’s shipyards, barely a mile from the old town. It is perfectly walkable, the path is not unpleasant and you get to see also a bit of modern Gdansk.
The European Solidarity Centre (and its immediate surroundings) have been built in contemporary style (it was opened in 2014) and on a grand scale.
The exhibits are really well structured and contained lots of information about the events in the late 1970s and early 1980s that ultimately led to the downfall of the dictatorial regime that had ruled Poland since the end of WW2.
The museum has plenty of immersive displays that give you a feel of how life was in those times. It also has a few, lets’ say, interactive areas where you can, for example, leave messages expressing your thoughts about this period of history and so on…
The shipyards are, of course, an important part of the identity of modern Gdansk.
Its symbology has been developed into a sort of visual brand of the city, which can even be found on the seats of urban buses!
But nowhere will you fid more examples of this as in the souvenir shop of the European Solidarity Centre, where you can find all sorts of memorabilia relating to Gdansk's shipyards, Lech Walesa and the revolution he unleased.
Unlike in other European cities that have deindustrialized, cranes are still an element in Gdansk urban landscape, as you can see from the rooftop viewing platform at the European Solidarity Centre.
Bonus recommendation: night walk in the old town
I couldn’t end this article without mentioning the beauty of old Gdansk by night. So, if you have the chance, go for a walk in the evening. I don’t know how is it like with cold or rainy weather, but I had the good fortune of visiting during a weekend of great sunny weather at the end of summer and the city was truly bustling with activity.
In particular, I recommend a walk after sunset along the banks of the river Vistula, when the lights are on. There you will be able to see a whole new face of the city of Gdansk, when it dons its evening attire!
Things to do around Rome on a Fiumicino stopover: visit Portus
Leonardo da Vinci-Fiumicino International Airport (FCO) is not just Rome’s main airport, but also a major air hub and the main base of flag carrier ITA Airways.
Fiumicino airport showcasing local heritage
There is, thus, a significant number of people that transit through Fiumicino every day, but I guess not that many of them are aware that, provided the stopover is long enough, they have the chance to visit a top archaeological site less than a mile away: the Ancient Roman harbour of Portus.
Remarkably, not unlike Fiumicino today, back in its time Portus was Rome’s major transportation hub.
The Romans may have built the greatest empire the Mediterranean has ever seen, but the city in Rome, while close to it, is not quite on the sea!
In fact, Rome’s gateway to the sea was Ostia, at the mouth of the river Tiber and also not far from Fiumicino airport.
What remains of that ancient seaport, Ostia Antica, is now a major archaeological site.
However, Ostia started to silt up already in Roman times, so, in order to ensure continued access to the sea and to accommodate the growing logistical demands of an expanding empire, during the reign of Emperor Claudius (1st C. AD) the Romans built yet another port a bit further north: Portus.
Just as today’s major airport hubs, which are built part for function and part to impress, Portus was built with some pretty impressive features, including a massive hexagonal basin connected to the sea via a newly dug canal and a number of support facilities that encapsulated the state-of-the-art technology of its time, to load, unload and store goods and forward them to nearby Rome and the rest of Europe.
Ancient Portus was, in many ways, a purpose-built, avant-la-lettre multi-modal transport hub!
How to get to Portus Archaeological Site from Fimucinio Airport
While close to each other, both archaeological sites are, however, not physically connected, so, unless you a a total hardcore Roman history fan and have an extremely long stopover and a large budget for taxis, I would say it is not very practical to visit both in one go.
Of the two, Portus is the closest to the Fiumicino terminals and, as far as I am aware of, the only one that is relatively easy (with some nuances as we shall soon see) access in public transport.
You can, of course get a taxi or Uber (the driving time is quite short), but pricing can be quite high, even if the distance is short. You can expect to pay on the order of €30 or more for each leg of the ride.
Since my ITA Airways stopover at Fiumicino was around 6 hours long, I opted to visit the archaeological site of Portus only and, to add, a bit more thrill to the adventure, to do so by public bus.
I even considered briefly the idea of walking to the archaeological site and, while this is not entirely unfeasible in terms of distance, I was discouraged from doing so because the route is traversed by several motorways, roads and undeveloped land, which would make it rather unpleasant or even plain dangerous.
So, it was going to be by bus.
The first thing to do, though, was to leave my bag at Fiumicino’s luggage storage facility. This is located right outside the arrivals area at Terminal 3. There is a flat fee per item, whether you leave it for 10 minutes or 24 hours and regardless of the size or weight. The system is quite efficient, though.
So, after the luggage was sorted, it was a matter of finding the right bus.
I went to ask to the tourist office at the arrivals area of the airport and, while they didn’t appear to be very sure about the optimal way to get to the Portus Archaeological Area from the airport, they suggested me two options:
To get a free airport shuttle that stops at the “Museo delle Navi Romane”, a small museum located just outside the airport perimeter which houses two Ancient Roman ships which were found in the area. In addition to being free, this option had the added bonus that it allowed me to visit the said museum, a good complement, I guess to the visit to the ancient port. The problem, though, is that the “Museo delle Navi Romane” is still some way off the Portus Archaeological Area. I would still need to walk two thirds of the way or get a taxi, which, while fast and convenient, would be quite costly per km.
To get a local bus which stops near the entrance to the Portus Archaeological Area. Frequencies are not great, so I had to time my visit carefully to be sure I had enough time to be back to the airport with enough time to retrieve my luggage and catch my flight.
So, all things considered, I opted for the latter option. The challenge, however, was to find the bus stop and make sure I got on the right bus, since several local lines stop at the airport. The fact that I speak Italian was rather helpful and would have been quite another story if I hadn’t (in fact, there were a couple of instances during the bus ride of people that found themselves going in the wrong direction!).
I must say that the bus option, while cheap (around €2 each way), it is not that convenient. First, the bus first heads east, makes a detour through downtown Fiumicino, before turning again east and backtrackig towards Via Portuense. The bus stop that is closest to the entrance to the only entrance to the Portus Archaeological Area is the one in front of the local cemetery. The bus then continues on to the nearby industrial areas.
It takes about 25 minutes to complete all this loop, which is quite a lot considering some parts of the archaeological area are almost touching the airport perimeter, but such is the configuration of roads and public transport networks in the area. If you intend to go back and forth on the bus, it is advisable to buy both tickets at the airport (there is an employee from the public transportation company that can sell you the tickets and advise you on the best bus to take).
The bus arrived and departed at the advertised times, but there is about one frequency per hour, so better make sure you show up in time!
So, this is how I finally made it to the entrance of the Portus Archaeological Area, which is actually a huge outdoors area enclosed by. walls. There is a first guarded entrance and the ticket office some 300 meters further into the perimeter. The entry ticket costs €10.
Portus, the port of Imperial Rome: a bit of history
Portus was initially a project of Emperor Claudius, who initiated the artificial harbour’s construction around 42-46 AD. The original layout featured a large basin protected by massive breakwaters and a lighthouse.
Emperor Trajan undertook a major expansion some fifty years later, when it became known as Portus Traianus. This is when the hexagonal inner basin, an artificial canal connecting it to the Mediterranean and one of the iconic elements that have been best preserved to this day, was built.
The basin was lined with a sophisticated and extensive network of warehouses and other support infrastructure to facilitate the processing or merchandise, mostly grain from Rome’s North African provinces, on which the capital had grown dependent.
Portus remained in service for several centuries, but, as it happened with nearby Ostia, it eventually silted up as well. This, together with the massive trade disruption that followed the fall of the Roman Empire, led to its demise as a major maritime entrepot in the early medieval era.
What is left of Ancient Portus in 2025?
Ancient Portus is now firmly on dry ground, a couple of kilometres inland, so you will need a bit of imagination to guess the function of the different structures that are today visible throughout the Portus Archaeological Area. Fortunately, the site’s curators have thought about this and the whole area is sprinkled with signage which does a great job in explaining what is what and how every item would have looked like in its heyday.
The most distinctive element is, of course, the basin, whose perfectly hexagonal shape can be easily recognized, even in aerial pictures. However, I must say, it looks more spectacular from above than when you see it from ground level.
Also, it is not easy to get close to it. While I did not complete a walk around it (due to my time constraints), in the area of most interest (the western edge of the basin), you can only spot it from a few dozen meters away.
There are a few viewpoints from the top of the former Roman warehouse buildings. These are also an item of interest and are located next to a modern farmhouse.
The walk from the ticket office to the basin is actually quite nice if the weather is good (as it was the case!), since the path runs through an area of fields and forest lined with some ancient structures.
Also, the site doesn’t seem to be particularly frequented. At the time of my visit I was on my own and didn’t see any other visitor anywhere in this vast space until I started to make my way back half and hour later, and even then, I just came across half a dozen people in total.
I did manage to spot otters, though, as the fields around seem to be a bit marshy!
Most of what has been (partly preserved) is towards the west and southwest of the basin, so, I would say: go first see the basin to get a grasp of the scale of the place and then walk through what’s left of the warehouses and the sea-facing portico of Claudius.
My take:
Since I am one of those people out there that think daily about the Roman Empire, I think it is quite amazing to have the chance to see such a unique site during an otherwise unremarkable airport stopover.
Plus the site was quite pleasant (the great weather helped a lot in this) and totally not crowded, which was an added “luxury”.
Now, the not so great part: while very close to the airport, it is by no means easy to get there (unless you wish to spend a little fortune in taxis) and it requires quite a lot of conviction!
Also, while Fiumicinio airport has some references to Ancient history and heritage within its premises (see the picture at the start of this post), remarkably very little information is made available to travellers about the archaeological sites in the vicinity of the airport.
Overall: a rather underrated archaeological site, which, in my opinion, deserves much more attention than it gets!
An evening in Montecarlo: what to do and what to see
Montecarlo is one of those legendary names associated with luxury and glamour, and most of this image responds to reality.
However, when I first visited the Principality of Monaco I was surprised to discover that it does have also some genuinely interesting and beautiful spots which have little to do with luxury shopping, gambling or flashy sports cars.
The Old Town of Montecarlo (also known as “Monaco-Ville or simply “Le Rocher”, “the Rock”, in French) is actually a pretty picturesque spot and the fact that it is the capital of an independent country only adds to the appeal of the place.
On this occasion, we did get to Montecarlo the proper glamourous way, though, on the super fancy Windstar Cruises “Wind Surf”, a sail-powered cruise ship.
Since Wind Star anchored off Montecarlo on a nice and warm morning, we didn’t want to miss the chance to spend some time enjoying Monegasque territorial waters from the ship’s own water sports platform (as you can see in the picture!). This meant that we would have to compress our onshore visit to the Principality into just a few hours in the evening, but this was more than enough for a pleasant walk through most of the country’s highlights.
By the way, since some of the pictures I took on this particular trip turned out to be not great because of some issues with light and the selected frames, I have also used some pictures I took in my previous visit a few months earlier in order to illustrate this post.
Arriving to Montecarlo by sea
So, I guess this the proper way to arrive to Monaco is by sea, if you have the chance.
But, in fact, the Principality of Monaco is surprisingly easy by public transportation, because it has a very centrally located train station that is served by suburban trains running between Nice and Menton.
First of all, let’s explain the geographical setting.
As is broadly known, Monaco is really small, the second smallest country in the world, actually, after Vatican City, so it is basically a mile-long strip of land between the Mediterranean and the very steep mountains that line this part of the French Cote d’Azur. These are, however, ideal dimensions if you have a limited amount of time to tour a country :)!
And while most people may be familiar with the high rises that dominate the modern parts of the city and the famous Casino of Montecarlo, the part that I found most interesting by far is the hill where Old Monaco is located. We could even call it the “Palatine Hill”, in reference to the famous spot in Rome, because it is where the Prince’s palace (the “Palais Princier”) is located.
Monaco is quite hilly, and, actually the port and most of downtown lies on relatively lower ground (though not really flat) between the Old Town to the west and the hill where the Casino is located to the east.
Looking from the sea, though, the most prominent and magnificent building that comes into sight is the Oceanographic Museum, a palatial grand building several storeys high, which is nested between the sea and the Old Town’s “Rock”.
The cruise shuttle boat left us at the quay located right at the feet of the Old Town, so we decided to access the old town from the seaside. We walked around the rock until we got to the “Parking des Pecheurs” next to the Oceanographic Museum. There you will find a lift that takes you to the top (and the tip!) of rock.
By the way, didn’t apply to us, but I read that the “Parking des Pecheurs” is also one of the country’s gateways for people arriving by car from France, since foreign-registered cars are banned from entering Montecarlo’s downtown.
At the upper end of the lift is a garden that makes for a perfectly pleasant entry into the intra-muros part of Old Montecarlo (the old town is enclosed by an fortified enceinte some parts of which date back to the Middle Ages!).
This path offered us some views not just of most of the country of Monaco, but also of our beautiful Windstar Wind Surf ship at anchor (wherever we went to on this trip, whether Elba, Portofino or Sanary-sur-Mer, it was always awesome to catch sight of this beautiful ship from the distance!)
The Windstar Cruises “Wind Surf” as seen from the ramparts of Old Montecarlo
And Montecarlo’s downtown. The Casino is on the hill at the far end of the port.
Top things to do in Montecarlo: a walk through the old town
Surprisingly, Montecarlo has a rather nice old town. The vibe here is rather different than from the bling-bling, show-off luxury of the modern part of the town (particularly of the area around the Casino of Montecarlo).
Monaco-Ville is more reminiscent of the more earthy and subdued elegance of Portofino or even de old quarter of Nice (“Vieux Nice”). After all, despite the modern day national borders, all these places are all more or less part of the same cultural and geographical continuum.
If using the lift at the seaside cliff to access the old town, the natural itinerary is to walk through the narrow streets of the center in the direction of the Palais Princier. The palace is actually located next to the landside gate of the ramparts, so from there, and once you have done your sightseeing and taken a few pics, you can then keep walking downhill towards the downtown.
On the way you may pass see Monaco’s cathedral (yes, the country has its own fully-fledged cathedral, the Cathedral of Our Lady Immaculate!).
This is not the Palais Princier, but a building just opposite it
The Palais Princier, and the square in front of it, is the locus of attention (and center of power) of the Old Town.
While the palace itself (or at least its public facade) is nothing spectacular, the square where it is located makes for quite a pretty harmonious setting.
This is also a good spot to admire the colourful Monesgasque military regalia, since there are always some Carabiniers on guard duty at the palace gates.
The Palace square has also some nice views of “the other side” of Monaco, the part that lies to the west of the Rock and which is mostly the result of land reclamation projects undertaken during the reign of Prince Rainier in the mid to late 20th Century.
So, leaving the old town from the landside makes sense, because you then walk down the very steep fortified ramps. After all, a proper fairy-tale-like kingdom (principality in this case) couldn’t exist without its ramparts!
While walking down the ramps, you also get some pretty great views of the city.
At the foot of the rock, on the land side you get to the Place d’Armes, a lively area with bars and restaurants. Importantly, several bus lines stop here.
Montecarlo has a reasonably good public transportation system and bus Number 1 will take you all the way along the sea front to the Casino. A one way ride costs a couple of euros.
We took the bus because we were short of time and it was already getting dark, but if you have time and feel like it, you can also walk through the downtown to get a better idea of the place.
An evening at the Montecarlo casino
I am not a fan of casinos or gambling (I simply don’t get it!). Having said that, if in Montecarlo, a thing to do is is definitely show up at the casino.
The esplanade in front of the casino is a constant come-and-go of sports cars and other people showing off. Even if you are not into this type of thing, it is quite a curious thing to see.
In any case, it is perfectly possible to access the casino (it costs something like €20, prices may have changed a bit since) to peek inside.
You don’t even need to play, just need to follow some basic rules, like not taking photos inside the building (hence the only picture I post is of the entrance portico).
And this is how we ended our short foray into one of the world’s smallest countries! Our stay in Montecarlo had a hard deadline, since we had to sail back to our waiting ship.
Au revoir Montecarlo, it was fun!
