Two hours from Dubai, a World away: visiting Musandam on the Strait of Hormuz
Now that the Strait of Hormuz is the centre of the global attention for all the wrong reasons, it is perhaps a good time to remember that its southern side is one of the most truly amazing destinations you can visit anywhere in the Middle East.
The Musandam Peninsula, an Omani exclave which protrudes into the sea giving the Strait of Hormuz its curvy, contorted shape, is a land of majestic desert fjords and dramatic vertical cliffs laid out in an extremely intricate pattern.
It is hard to believe that this area, with almost no flat land or roads of any type and populated only by some fishermen which move around only by sea, is located just a couple of hours drive from the buzz of Dubai.
If you are based in Dubai, the Musandam Peninsula is perhaps the top thing to do if you are looking for places to spend a weekend somewhere out of the city. In fact, traveling to Musandam from Dubai is like stepping into a whole other world entirely!
Now, what I am going to explain here refers to a visit made before the military conflict that flared up in the Gulf in early 2026. So, a word of caution here, since I have no idea how the war may have affected the Musandam Peninsula and whether it is advisable or even possible to visit during times of conflict.
In any case, the natural attractive of this area is there to stay, so hopefully these lines about how to visit the Musandam Peninsula and what to do there will remain relevant regardless of when the fighting ends.
In an article I wrote about the area in 2023, was titled “The Norway of Arabia” and while this comparison helps frame the type of landscapes and environment Musandam offers, I think it is worth elaborating a bit more on this label and sharing some more details of this amazing and yet relatively unknown gem of a destination.
Khasab, the gateway to the Musandam Peninsula
How to get to the Musandam Peninsula
First of all some important logistic considerations:
Musandam is an Omani exclave, that is one piece of the territory of the Sultanate of Oman which is detached from the mainland and wedged between the UAE and the Strait of Hormuz. Therefore, if you travel there by land, you will have to clear Omani customs and immigration.
Now, the good news is, Oman is a relatively open country and citizens of many countries (including the EU, UK and US) can simply get a visa at the border, a process that involves just filing a form and paying a small fee.
However, it is still an international border and entry conditions may change, so check in advance on the websites of the Omani government and the travel advisory section of the embassy or consulate of your own country!
Another important consideration:
If you are traveling on a car rented in the UAE (as was our case), you need to make sure the terms and conditions of your rental allow for entry into Oman. Many car rental companies in Dubai or Abu Dhabi will do that for an extra fee. So, check it is possible before the booking and then ask for it again when picking up the vehicle.
Also, in addition to obtaining permission from the car rental company to take the car out of the UAE, you also need to take into account that Oman requires all vehicles entering its territory to have an insurance policy that covers Omani territory. Some car rental companies based in the UAE offer this, but, in such case, make sure you get all the papers and print them out, because they are going to be checked at the border and they are pretty strict with this.
The alternative is to contract an ad-hoc insurance policy for the duration of your Musandam journey right at the border. An Omani insurance company has a booth right by the border post just for this purpose. The process takes like 5min and it requires filing up a form and paying the insurance fee (at the time it was something like $60 for a 2-3 day period, but this may be subject to change).
In our case, while we had contracted the international insurance upon picking up the car in the UAE, there was, apparently, a mistake in the way it had been processed, so the border guards wouldn’t let the car in unless a new insurance policy was contracted at the local booth, which we did (we later cleared that out and got refunded by the car rental firm since it had been them messing up the paperwork).
The distance from downtown Dubai to the Oman border crossing is about 150km (90 miles) and to Khasab is about 200km (120 miles). It is nearly all through motorway, except for a short stretch between Ras Al Khaimah and the border in which it switches to a two lane road which crosses and industrial area. So, it takes a couple of hours to the border, and to that you should add another 30-40 minutes already inside Omani territory to Khasab.
You must also factor in some time for the border crossing, because it is necessary to stop, get off the car and clear immigration at the customs house. The time requirement depends on the amount of people and the “complexity” of your paperwork. On the way in we spend nearly an hour, but this is because we arrived just after several buses full of tourists (there are also some organized tours from the UAE going to Musandam) and we had to sort out the car insurance paperwork. On the way out it took us less than 10 minutes.
Roads are good. On the UAE side, you are almost all the time on a well-maintained, multi-lane motorway. On the Omani side it is a two-lane road, but it is also well-built, well-maintained and quite broad. So, as long as you take care of the border formalities, Musandam is pretty accessible.
You can also travel to Musandam by air, since there is also a small local airport. However, as far as I am aware of, it only has a few domestic flights to the Omani capital, Muscat.
Spending the night in Khasab
Fjord cruise departures are usually at 10am, so, while you could technically make it in one go from Dubai if waking up very early in the morning, I would highly recommend spending the night before the fjord tour in Khasab.
Where to stay in Khasab
Now, when it comes to choices, Khasab is nothing like the apparently almost endless supply you find across the border in the UAE. And this is a great part of what confers to Musandam such a sense of uniqueness and, without being luxurious in the material sense, of exclusivity, as well!
There are basically two major modern establishments in Khasab and both are managed by the same company, Omani hotel group Atana, the Atana Khasab Hotel, which is located in a small hill overlooking the bay of Khasab, and the Atana Musandam Resort, which is located in downtown by the port.
The latter markets itself as somehow more upmarket (perhaps on account of its slightly more central location), but, from the descriptions I have seen I think they are both pretty similar, in the four-star range. We stayed at the Atana Khasab Hotel and had a very good experience!
This, was at least, the situation when it comes to accommodation in Khasab at the time of my visit. Since things change really fast in this region, it is very possible, that some new hotels have opened since. In fact, and unless there is a deliberate policy of limiting visitor numbers, I wouldn’t be surprised if this is what ends up happening, since the appeal of the place is undeniable and it is only a matter of time until the word spreads out. I hope, if this ends up being the case, that Musandam is able to preserve its charm!
Atana Khasab Hotel
This modern hotel is located right on the main and only road leading from the UAE border into Khasab. It is located a couple of kilometres from the port and it has some very nice pool-side views of the bay of Khasab and the waters around the Musandam Peninsula. it has plenty of space to park your car, btw.
The facilities are quite modern and spacious and some rooms have direct access to the terrace.
We had dinner and breakfast at the terrace of the Atana Khasab Hotel and it was pretty good overall. The menu contains also quite a few local specialities, which is a nice touch (the um ali and mahalabia they serve for dessert are particularly tasty!)
The hotel has also quite a few outdoor spaces, including part of the dining area, which is quite nice considering that the weather in this part of the world is quite balmy in the mornings and evenings.
My description of the Atana Khasab Hotel wouldn’t be complete without a word of recognition for its staff, and particularly for Rasheed, the hotel’s restaurant manager, who went above and beyond to return us an item of great personal value that we inadvertently left behind at the hotel. Rasheed not only took care of finding it, but even drove several hundred kilometers into the UAE to deliver it in person to the resort where we were staying it at the time!
“This is Omani hospitality”, he simply said.
So, I am taking this opportunity to express again my huge gratitude for this very kind act!
What to do in Musandam?
While the base for any Musandam Peninsula excursion is Khasab, which is the main town in the exclave, there is little to see in the town itself, aside from a 16thC. Portuguese fort (Portugal controlled the area around the Strait of Hormuz for quite some time in the 16th-17th C.).
The rest of the town is pretty unremarkable. In fact, it is quite a small place. There is a sort of “downtown” with some shops and wholesale outlets near the port, but the population is pretty scattered otherwise.
The main thing to do in Musandam and, basically, the whole point of coming here is to enjoy a cruise along the fjords of the peninsula.
To do so, it is necessary to book one of the many day cruises that leave Khasab port in the morning. You can find quite a few options on Viator or Getyourguide.
We booked this tour of the Musandam fjords, which costs around $50 (€45) per person and the experience was great! I will describe it in more detail right below.
My impression is that most tours offer a pretty similar service, though: pick up in the morning at your hotel, drive to the port for a 10am departure. Then you spend around 6 hours at sea, returning in the afternoon at around 4pm or so.
The boats are of the traditional dhow type, although they are somehow modernized. They have a broad open deck where you spend most of the time. There is a protective canvas that is rolled out over it to protect from the sun as well as a cabin by the stern. The boat is also fitted with toilets, btw.
These boats are large enough to carry perhaps a couple dozen people onboard, but it is rare to see them full. In our case it was just around ten people and there was plenty of space to move around. It all felt like going on a private yacht.
The crew were also very nice. They took good care of us throughout the trip and you could see how they even strived to get us were the dolphins were!
Our route took us on a loop around the Musandam’s main fjord, which is located just to the west of Khasab. We started on the south side, getting past Telegraph Island (a little rocky outcrop which once housed a rely post of the British telegraph linking London to India) to the very bottom of the fjord and then back along its north side.
We did a couple of stops, each lasting about an hour or so, during which the crew anchors the boat next to shore and it is possible to swim. The crew also lends you googles and fins to do some snorkelling, which is quite an experience in these waters. There are coral reefs, plenty of fish and some interesting creatures, such as sea cucumbers and huge sea urchins!
Lunch is included in the experience and it is served on deck. It consisted of Arabian and Indian-style food, different types of roasted meat and vegetables with rice and different types of accompanying sauces and condiments plus flat bread. It was pretty tasty and abundant. It is self-service. The crew lays out the different foods and you take as much as you want. Drinks are also served.
During the trip you see several other dhows following roughly the same itinerary, but the distances are so big that it never feels crowded or “touristy”, even if it is obviously a touristy, packaged activity.
In fact, one of the most awesome things of this experience is the feeling of smallness in this rock and water landscape (there is not a single tree or even a little speck of greenery on sight!).
We also sailed past some settlements which can only be reached by sea. It is incredible to think this place is just a couple of hours drive from the Dubai Mall. It feels like a different planet!
One of the highlights of the tour is the dolphin spotting. At the start of the cruise I was giving a very low chance to this happening, but, actually we saw the first dolphins barely 15 minutes into the trip and then we spotted many more at different points during our journey!
Here are some more pictures of the secluded, mineral world that is the Musandam Peninsula.
This is a really rugged area, with some peaks towering nearly 800 meters directly over the water!
So, after returning to port, we just left Musandam for the UAE again, but you may want to consider staying for one or two more days to get more rest or simply to explore a bit more of the Musandam Governorate.
You can take the world’s longest zipline (1,800 metres), which has one of its ends right next to the Atana Khasab Hotel, or you can try to explore a bit of the interior of the exclave, which has some really high mountains reaching above 2,000 meters, although I don’t know how accessible those tracks are.
In any case, a day sailing through the waters of the Musandam Peninsula is an amazing, unforgettable experience and one I would recommend to anyone visiting this part of the world!
Further reading
If you are traveling in the area of planning to, you may want to check also my posts about:
24 Hours in Amman: best things to see and to do
Amman, the capital city of Jordan, often gets overlooked as a tourist destination.
To be fair, Jordan’s most renowned tourist attractions are elsewhere: Petra, the Dead Sea, the Gulf of Aqaba…The country’s location, in an area of near-constant geopolitical turmoil, doesn’t help and you can also add to that the fact that, Jordan, as a country, lacks the budgets and resources which other countries in the Middle East are investing to become major tourism and business entrepôts.
However, and while it does not have huge landmarks, Amman is not lacking its unique charm and, most of all, authenticity (yes, I know this word is cliché, but if you have visited other cities in the Middle East and then you go to Amman, you will understand what I mean). There’s, in fact, more than enough to keep you going for a full intense day of sightseeing or two, if you take things at a more leisurely pace.
In my case, it was a short 24 hour stopover with an overnight. My hotel was rather central, so this allowed me to visit the key areas of the center on foot during the day (Note: it was November, so the heat was very bearable, I guess it’s different in summer).
Perhaps after Ryanair announced a significant ramp up of its flights between Amman and Europe, the city is going to become a lot more popular with tourists.
Let’s see what I think are the top things to do and to see in Amman if you there on a short visit!
Arriving in Jordan: some practical informations
Although I found Jordan quite an easy country to move through, it’s important to prepare a bit before going.
Visa: citizens of many countries (including the EU and US) can get a visa on arrival. It costs something like US$50 and you can get it at the airport. There is a counter at the airport where they will take payment (credit cards accepted).
There is also a Jordanian government web portal where you can prefill the form, but in my case it turned out not to work properly.
Currency: although cards are accepted in many places, I found it convenient, particularly since I arrived in the middle of the night, to get some cash at the airport. This proved to be handy latter during the day.
Moving around:
Queen Alia International Airport (a beautiful and very modern airport, btw) is a bit far from the center, some 40km or so. There are some buses, but the taxis are not too expensive, so I opted for this option. Both Uber and its Middle Eastern equivalent, Careem, work in Jordan. I think it was a very good decision to use them to optimize travel times.
There is no metro in Amman and public transportation seems a bit difficult to understand if you are not local. In fact, if you stay in the city center and provided you have no problem withe going a bit uphill at timse, you can just walk around, which is what I did.
What I would recommend, though, is getting an e-sim, to be able to orient yourself around and get an Uber or Careem if you need to.
Making sense of Amman: a very hilly city
One thing that you will notice immediately when you are on site is how hilly Amman is (like so many iconic cities it is built on 7 hills!),
In fact, the most buzzing part of the historical center is basically on a narrow stretch of flat space found between several of these hills. And some of the landmarks, like the citadel and Rainbow Street are located on top of them.
For reference, most of what I describe in this post is located within the red square above.
This was the area I moved around in during my visit.
This are is all within walkable distance (although bits of it are quite steep, tbh!)
Top sight: Amman Citadel
If you have time just for one thing in Amman, go to the Citadel! This is the most ancient part of the city, and that’s no small statement. In fact, Amman is one of the oldest continuously inhabited urban settlements in the World!
So, pretty much all Ancient civilizations that the Near East has seen have, at some point or another, left their imprint on the area where the Citadel is now located.
Curious fact: throughout most of Classic Antiquity, from the Hellenistic period (around 3rd C BC to the early Middle Ages, Amman was known as “Philadelphia”!
Most of what you see today on the Citadel is actually from the Roman and Umayyad periods.
But even if you are not that interested in the Ancient history, the Citadel will give you some of the best views of the modern city of Amman (including the massive flag which has become something of a landmark)!
The Citadel occupies the whole top of an “L-shaped” hill with majestic views on all sides.
Besides the different layers of Ancient ruins, it also contains a small archaeological museum (more on this soon.
The Citadel perimeter is enclosed by a fence, and there it is necessary to pay a small entry fee to get in.
There are also some services, including a café and a shop.
There are buses that go up to the Citadel, although it is also perfectly possible to walk (it’s a bit steep, though!)
I would advise allocating a couple of hours to visit the Citadel, since there are quite a few points of interest, including the, rather impressive, remains of the temple of Hercules and a palace complex dating back to the early Islamic period.
To walk through the ruins I used a new app which I had been offered to try, GPSmyCity, which works essentially like an audioguide on your phone, with several landmarks explained (it works in quite a few cities around the world, btw, not just in Jordan).
There is also a small archaeological museum. Quite old school and, to be honest, sometimes a bit cluttered, trying to explain the whole history of mankind in such a small space! .Given the richness of the archaeological heritage in Jordan, it had quite a few remarkable pieces, though!
From the Citadel it is possible to spot the next big landmark on our Amman sightseeing list: the Roman theatre!
Amman’s Roman Theater
As you may have seen in the picture above, the Roman theatre is just downhill from the Citadel, actually built on the sides of the opposite hill.
It is possible to walk down a few alleyways and get to the theatre in a few minutes. The biggest challenge is crossing the major avenue that cuts through the middle of Amman, since the traffic is nonstop (I finally just followed a group of locals that just forced their way through the traffic, strength in numbers!)
Now, I have been to quite a few Roman theatres (see my post about the Lycian coast), but this one is rather exceptional in two ways:
1) it’s rather good state of conservation/restoration
2) It is sooooo steep, it’s almost vertical! (seriously, look at the pictures below!)
There is a big square in front of the theatre and you can get a good view already from here, but I recommend paying the ticket to get in (it costs the equivalent of a couple of dollars/euros). The view from the top is great (if you don’t maind heights!) and you get the symmetrical view of the Citadel from the opposite hill).
With your entrance ticket you can visit also a small antropological museum located on the wings of the theatre’s base building. Tbh, as a museum is a bit mmmh…don’t expect much, but there are some real life figures representing the different peoples that lived in what it is today Jordan. Spent 10 minutes maximum there.
A walk through Central Amman
After visiting the Citadel and the Roman Theatre I walked a bit through the area around Al-Hashemi Street and its surroundings. This is the valley that lies between three of the city’s hills and it appears to be the historical downtown.
Don’t expect major landmarks here. In fact, I would say it is not even particularly beautiful, BUT it is quite an interesting area that is buzzing with commercial activity.
It is neither old souk experience (in the 1001-nights sense) nor the sanitized modern shopping experience you find in some Gulf countries, it does not even resemble the very touristified Istanbul, but it does have a character of its own.
Jordan is not just a Kingdom, but the monarchy is at the very center of its sense of nationhood. You can see signs of that all over the place.
Here below you can get an idea of how streets look like when you leave the main commercial avenues behind and start climbing uphill through the side streets.
Lunch at Hashem
King Faisal Street, Amman
I went to Hashem for lunch after I saw it popping up repeatedly when researching where to eat in Amman. It didn’t disappoint!
Not only the food was great, but the place has character, staff is efficient and it delivers great value for money.
It is located in a sort of indoors courtyard off one of the main commercial streets and its specialty is Middle Eastern “street food”, that is, several types of hummus (and its derivatives), falafel and the like.
Portions are really big! I ordered hummus, mutabal and falafel and I ended up really full. They also serve the typical flat bread, which is served straight on the table, which is covered with a disposable transparent plastic.
What’s more, I came in expecting I would have to wait a bit, since the place was packed and buzzing, but the staff somehow managed to find me a spot straightaway. The ordering experience is also quite a thing, since you mark on a piece of paper which dishes you wish and in which quantities. The service was also really fast and, upon finishing you pay at a small booth at the exit. Very efficient throughout! As a bonus I also managed to taste the local equivalent of Coca-Cola/Pepsi, called “Matrix”.
The food itself was also great and you can see why this is a place that seems to be a “must-go” for anyone visiting Amman, as the gallery of celebrities on the walls of the restaurant shows.
I would certainly come back!
A walk through Rainbow Street
After such a substantious meal, it was time to get moving again and nothing better to exercise a bit that climbing all the way up to Rainbow Street, another of the areas of note in Amman.
Rainbow Street is at the crest of another hill, just immediately south of downtown, and it is a sort of posh-bohemian area with some cafés and artsy spots. Don’t expect a specific major landmark or some super impressive views here, but it is good for a pleasant stroll along some quiet streets and some coffee.
In this regard, a nice place to stop by is the garden of the Turquoise Mountain Showroom, which showcases artisan handiwork from Afghanistan, Myanmar, Saudi Arabia and other countries.
It also has a nice café with a terrace which offers a space of calm to sit down after all the up and down walking.
Great value hotel in Amman: Shams Alweibdeh Hotel Apartments
Al-Baouneyah St., Amman
I booked this hotel at the very last minute since it offered a good combination of reasonable price, good reviews and proximity (walking distance) to the city centre. It turned out to be a good choice for my overnight stay.
This is a 3-star, so not luxurious, but it delivered in everything it promises. The room was actually quite big, it was more of an apartment, since it has its own kitchen and living room. And everything was pretty clean. The bathroom had toiletries, as well.
I didn’t try the breakfast, so, I can’t comment on that. Staff at reception also help me arrange my airport transfer at approximately the same rate than Uber charges.
The hotel is located in a rather calm residential area on top on, you guess it!, another hill. From here to the downtown sights I previously mentioned is about 15 minutes downhill walk, with some sights of both the urban maze that is Amman and the modern business district, along the way.
48 hours in Nairobi: what to do and what to see
Kenya is one of Africa’s top tourist destinations, however, it’s not really a place known for urban tourism: many visitors just pass through its capital, Nairobi, on their way to the large national parks like Masai Mara, which are further inland.
However, the Kenyan capital should not be overlooked, since it has quite a few interesting things to do and to see, even if you are just stopping there for a couple of days.
In this post I will share some ideas to make the most out of a short stay in Nairobi, based on my own experience during a recent visit.
I did travel there on a business trip, but, nevertheless managed to squeeze in a visit to some of the main sights and taste a bit of the local cuisine.
But before we start, let’s comment on some practical matters to take into account if traveling to Nairobi.
This is by no means an exhaustive list and I must say that my visit was made easier by the fact that my local hosts took good care of me and helped me get around.
My advice is to do proper research and consult multiple sources in addition to this post before planning any activities in or around the city.
Some practical considerations before traveling to Nairobi:
Visas: First of all, bear in mind that while Kenya has visa free travel for citizens of many countries (including, as far as I am aware of, most European ones), you should file something “ETA”, which is an electronic travel form. It costs something like US$30 and it is filed online on the Kenyan government website. It is pretty straightforward, although pretty detailed in the info it asks, such as the exact place of stay, itinerary, flights, etc. I got confirmation on the same morning that I file it, but it is advised to do it with at least a few days in advance, if possible.
Payments / Internet: Kenya is a very digitized country and cards and mobile payments are generally accepted everywhere. It is convenient, however, to have at least a bit of cash with you, for example for tips. It is also pretty much a necessity to get some sort of mobile internet since some services, like the national park fees and museum tickets must be paid online on the government’s website. So, get an e-sim with Kenya coverage!
Safety: my impression is that it is generally safe, although I must say I was a bit cocooned during my visit. In fact, was advised to avoid wandering around alone at night. The one tense situation I saw was when a bunch of guys tried to create an impromptu roadblock on a side street through which some cars were trying to avoid a traffic jam. So, don’t stress too much but be cautious. In terms of health, all tropical precautions apply.
Moving around: Uber operates in Nairobi and it can be quite cheap. The main thoroughfares are pretty well maintained. Now, the problem when moving around the city is the traffic. At times sections of the city center become totally clogged, as in almost no one can’t move and Google Maps shows all red. So, be mindful because travel times may be much longer than they look like in the map.
Nairobi National Park
This is an absolute highlight of any visit to Nairobi and if you have to choose just one thing to see while in town, go for this one!
It is quite amazing, but Nairobi has a vast national park packed with wild animals (giraffes, rhinos, hippos, zebras, lions, hyenas, gazelle, crocs…pretty much all the big African animals, except, I was told, elephants) within walking sight of downtown.
Entrance to the park is controlled and the entrance fee is rather steep (around US$80) but well worth it! I have not been to Masai Mara or the Serengueti, so I can’t really compare.
In fact, I had even entertained the idea of taking one of the day-long excursions to the Maasai Mara out of Nairobi, but after visiting the Nairobi National Park, I simply dropped the idea.
In a short afternoon visit you can actually get most of the safari experience without having to venture too far. In fact, it is actually quite amazing to be able to see giraffes and rhinos in the wild with the backdrop of central Nairobi skyscrapers!
To visit the park you would need to get a way to be driven around, though! I had this sorted by my hosts, so can’t really provide advice on this one.
Next are some of the animals that I could see and photograph during our drive through the Nairobi National Park.
Places to eat in Nairobi:
Restaurant Carnivore
Langata Link Rd, Nairobi, Kenya
https://www.instagram.com/carnivorekenya
This is one of the restaurants of reference in Nairobi and it is located not far from the entrance to the national park.
As the name implies, it specializes in barbecued meat. It is quite an experience to eat here and order the full meat selection. You sit down in an open courtyard and waiters keep coming with large skewers offering cuts of different types of meat that have been cooked in a large open grill by the entrance of the restaurant.
This is your chance to taste exotic delicacies ostrich or crocodile meat, by the way!
The meat comes also with a selection of sides and sauces and the restaurant has also some signature cocktails on offer (ice is made with purified water, as confirmed by staff).
Since this was my first time eating here I was also treated to a nice celebratory song by part of the staff, as well! A rather memorable experience overall.
Karen Blixen House & Museum
Another interesting spot in Nairobi and one that is connected with the origins of the city in the early 20th century, when European farmers started to grow coffee near what was then little more than a small settlement next to the railway line.
Karen Blixen, a Danish writer, and her Swedish husband were two of those coffee farmers. Both moved to Nairobi from Europe just before the First World War and bought a coffee plantation. Blixen subsequently memorialized her experiences in the book “Out of Africa”, which in the 1980s was made into a Hollywood blockbuster movie starring Meryl Streep and Robert Redford.
The house in which Blixen lived all those years has been preserved (as well as some of its grounds) has been turned into a museum and can be visited.
The place, which is located in the district of Lang’ata, is not far from the Giraffe Center (another point of interest I will comment on shortly) and it is actually quite nice, lush and green all around.
As at the national park, there is an entrance fee of around US$10, which can only be paid online on the government website. It includes a guided tour (a tip is expected), which is pretty individualized, in my case since I was on my own (but then I saw couples and small groups also got each their own guided tours).
The house is not large and it doesn’t take much time to see it through (it is not allowed to take pictures inside, but, in any case, the interior is not the original). The visit then moves to a nearby section of the estate where it is still possible to see some of the machinery that was used to process the coffee beans (this came with a little wildlife surprise! - see below).
Karen Blixen Coffee Garden and Cottages
Karen Rd, Nairobi, Kenya
https://karenblixengroup.com/coffee-garden-and-cottages
The visit to Karen Blixen’s house can be completed in less than an hour.
However, if you don’t wish to rush, you can next stop at the Karen Blixen Café, which is a rather posh café, restaurant and hotel with a very nice terrace, located about a kilometre down the road from the Karen Blixen museum (so, despite the name, it is not the same property!)
It can be a bit pricey (for Nairobi standards) but the setting is really nice, with a large garden and veranda and an indoor area that looks a bit like a greenhouse. They have also a good selection of food and drink.
The café has also its own parking lot.
Nairobi Giraffe Center
The center, whose official name is “African Fund for Endangered Wildlife” was set up if 1979 by Jock and Betty Leslie-Melville with the goal of saving the Rothschild Giraffe (one of the most endangered giraffe subspecies).
This is a conservation center, but also a place where visitors can see the giraffes from up close and feed them. In fact, when you come in you are given a little bowl of giraffe food. You can walk through on a platform facing the open enclosure where the giraffes live. When they notice there is food they come to eat it from your hand.
The experience is short (I spent less than 10 minutes there) but it is quite remarkable. It is also in Lang’ata and a bit far from downtown (particularly with traffic) but I would, nevertheless, recommend visiting, particularly if you can combine it with a visit to the nearby Karen Blixen museum.
The entrance fee is about US$12 (the funds are invested in the giraffe preservation project).
Visiting downtown Nairobi - Kenyatta International Conference Centre (KICC)
Now, I know that I may be missing some of the interest points in downtown Nairobi, not least the renowned upmarket area called Westlands, but my time availability was really limited (even more so because of the traffic jams), so I chose to visit just one spot downtown: the viewpoint at the top of one of Nairobi’s tallest buildings, the Kenyatta International Conference Centre (KICC).
The Kenyatta International Conference Centre (KICC) is one of the city’s landmarks. It was completed in the early 1970s and it has a very distinctive cylindrical shape. It is located in a square surrounded by several prominent official buildings, which include Kenya’s Supreme Court, the City Council and the Cathedral.
You can get a ticket to take the lift to the top (although to enjoy the view you have to climb some stairs, so it is not fully accessible if you have reduced mobility). Staff may offer to guide you through the visit in exchange for a little ti, although this is optional.
The 360º city view is really magnificent. Recommended.
Where to stay in Nairobi
Eka Hotel
Mombasa Rd, Nairobi
This is quite a nice, modern, 4-star hotel located not far from the main motorway linking downtown to the airport and very close also to the Nairobi National Park.
The facilities are comfortable and clean. There is contemporary decor throughout and you are provided with purified water and bathroom amenities.
I did not spend much time on the premises, so I can’t comment much on the services available, although in general it appeared to have quite a lively atmosphere, with a stylish bar and restaurant and a nice breakfast buffet.
Another great place to eat out in Nairobi:
Cobblestone House
Kiambu Rd, Nairobi
https://cobblestonehouse.co.ke
Last but not least, here is another recommendation to eat out in Nairobi. It comes with a caveat, though: it is quite far from the center, in one of city’s northern suburbs. The drive was well worth it, though!
The set up is quite nice as well, with the tables mostly outdoors at the terrace (they provide you with heaters, since it can get chilly in Nairobi in the evening, the city is located at an altitude of 1,600m, after all!)
This is yet another great place to eat meat and it has also great South African wines. We really enjoyed the massive barbecued meat platter, but they have a selection of specialities from cuisines from all over the world.
If you are travelling to Nairobi, there is a chance you may be considering flying the national carrier, Kenya Airways, if this is the case and you wish to check how is it like, let me suggest you this flight review I wrote on our sister site Allplane.